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How To Know When a Salt Cell is Bad - General

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This guide will show different ways to determine if your salt chlorine generator (SCG) cell is damaged and/or needs replacing. An SCG cell can be expected to last 5 or more years if the pool and equipment are maintained properly. This guide outlines the general steps that should work for most models, but you should also reference your owner’s manual for more model-specific troubleshooting instructions.

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Steps

Things You'll Need

Aqua Chek Select Test Strips

Pool Salt Test Strips

Step by Step

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Step 1

Balanced Water Chemistry - To maximize the life of your salt cell, you’ll need to maintain proper water chemistry. The critical components of healthy water chemistry are  Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity (TA,) Cyanuric Acid (CYA or Stabilizer,) Calcium Hardness (CH,) and Salt. The image on this step provides the ideal ranges these categories should be maintained within.

For example, suppose your pool is high in calcium. In that case, the salt cell will become caked with scale (calcium buildup, which restricts flow over the plates and prevents the electrolysis chemical reaction from happening. Water with too high of pH or alkalinity will also lead to excess scale buildup and staining to the pool surface. And low CYA levels lead to rapid chlorine burn-off because there isn’t enough “stabilizer”  to protect chlorine from UV rays hence why cyanuric acid is commonly referred to as sunblock for your pool.

Related Articles: 

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Step 2

Inspect Cell LED or Fault Code - The inspect cell alert is not always a sign your cell is dead, but it is a tip-off that you need to clean the cell, or the water chemistry requires attention.

On some salt chlorinator models, like the Hayward AquaRite, the Inspect Cell flashes after every 500 hundred run hours. This timed reminder is more of a fail-safe built-in by the manufacturer to ensure the cell is maintained at regular intervals, even if the cell doesn’t have build-up concerns.

Related Articles:

Click Here to View Replacement Salt Cells 

Step 3

Check that Output % is Set Correctly - Make sure the output percentage is set to its usual position. For Hayward salt systems, you’ll need to ensure the output toggle is set o to AUTO.

This step seems obvious, but there have been many hours wasted on troubleshooting, that could have been solved with a simple turn of a knob.

Click Here to View Replacement Salt Cells

Step 4

Adjust Output to Account for Bather Load and Water Temps - Warm water and high bather loads significantly increase your pool water’s chlorine demand. Try increasing the output by 20 to 30 percentage points to counteract the higher demand.

If you notice repeated cell/chlorine issues after rain, you may want to adjust your usual chlorine output to counteract. Remember, rainwater is untreated freshwater, and any runoff from your pool deck brings any dirt in with it. The increase in fresh water and dirt will drop your chlorine quickly.

Step 5

Check Salt Level - Most salt chlorine generators will shut down the cell's salt levels are outside the prescribed range. For example, the Pentair Intellchlor’s operational salinity range is 3000 - 4200 ppm (ideal 3400 ppm.). If the salt level is outside of this range, the CHECK SALT light will flash, and the cell will shut down until correct.

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Click Here to View Salt Pool Test Strips 

Step 6

Check Pool Water Temps - Salt cells are temperature sensitive. Most are programmed to halt chlorine production and shut down if the temperature is lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The actual shutdown temperature level varies based on the salt system model.

Chlorine demand is extremely low in temps below 50 degrees; algae cannot grow in water that cold. So, if you need to introduce chlorine to the water, manually shock the pool. 

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Step 7

Check Water Flow Strength - A “NO FLOW” or “LOW FLOW” alert is usually caused by a dirty filter or skimmer baskets, but more serious causes can be a blockage in the plumbing line.

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Click Here to View Replacement Salt System Parts 

Step 8

Check Cable Connections - Check all wire connections from the control panel to the cell, flow switch, and power source. Ensure these connections are tight and secure. 

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Step 9

Check Cell Plates for Scale or Corrosion - Your cell’s plates for the white metallic calcium buildup called scale. This build-up naturally occurs in the cell over time, even in well-balanced pools, but its growth rate increases in imbalanced water. 

After cleaning the Cell, look for loose, broken, or displaced plates. The scale may obstruct your view, so take this time to inspect the plates. If the plates are damaged, the best solution is the replace the salt cell.

Related Article:

Click Here to View Replacement Salt Cells

Step 10

Check the Cell’s Polarities - Some salt systems can reverse the current polarity of the cell; it is sometimes called the “self-clean” feature. Reversing the cell’s polarity helps loosen h the scale has with the plates. The loosening of that bond, coupled with the flushing flow of water from your pool pump, clears the scale build-up.

Click Here to View Replacement Salt Cells

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(81 to 120 of 152)

 Posted: 9/30/2019 

There are other reasons that amperage would show zero. Cold water (<50 degrees), controller is set to less than 100% and in an off mode, etc..
 Reply

 Posted: 6/26/2019 

We continue to struggle with low chlorine levels. Salt level is 3500. We’ve cleaned the cell and have had it on super chlorinate for a week and chlorine levels still low. Salt cell is likely at least 8 years old. Time for a new cell?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/26/2019 

Have you tried adding shock to help give the cell a boost? If you have cleaned the cell and the shock boost doesn't work then it is probably time for a new cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/12/2021 

Are you advising to add shock to the pool or shock to the soaking solution for the salt cell? Any shock? How much?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/13/2021 

"If required you can manually shock your pool with liquid chlorine or granular shock." That is the only mention of shock in the article and it is saying to put it in the pool, not the cleaning solution. As for the dosing instructions, read the label on your shock's packaging; but usually, it is 1-pound per 10,000 gallons.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/12/2019 

This is the 6th year for my salt cell. I brought a sample to my local store they had me add salt. I told them the check salt light was flashing so they had me clean the cell. After resetting, it is still blinking. Time for a new cell?
 Reply

 Posted: 3/24/2020 

Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 seconds and light should go away. This light usually comes on every 3 months as reminder to remove cell and visually inspect it and clean accordingly.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/13/2019 

First, what is the current salinity level of your water? If it is still too low, add more salt. If the salinity level is in the good range, your cell needs to be replaced.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/23/2019 

I have an issue where there is corrosion on two of the pins where the T cell plugs onto the board. Is there a recommended way to clean this?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/24/2019 

I found this video with a quick Google search: How to Easily Clean Corroded Electrical Connections & Apply Protection
 Reply

 Posted: 5/22/2019 

We have a Pentecostal ic40 working fine, chemicals are still not right but it shut itself off. Is the chlorination dead? Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2019 

Can you explain what isn't right about the water chemistry? Maybe that is the cause system shutting off.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/18/2019 

I have a Hayward Goldline with a T3 cell. The readings show 2700, 84, 31.4, 0.00, 70 P, -0, AL-0, r 1.58, t-3. The panel has power but it appears the cell is not generating chlorine. The cell is clean and connections have been checked. The system is 18 years old and the cell is 6. Your thoughts?
 Reply

 Posted: 7/25/2019 

I have the exact same problem, although both components are new last year.. what tips do u have for trouble shooting this problem?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2019 

First thing, which Hayward Goldline system is it? The AquaRite, AquaTrol, AquaPlus, Aqua Logic.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/20/2019 

Aqua Rite system
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2019 

Because your amps show zero (0), you should replace your PC Board. The TCELL3 amp range is 1.3 - 4.5.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/30/2019 

Hello, I purchased a house in 2018 that has a Hayward GoldLine Chlorinator. It was working fine until recently. I get NO FLOW error. I already replaced the flow switch and the cell was cleaned with acid periodically. The cell is Hayward T-9. I don't know the age of the cell. The house is in florida and water is circulated daily. 1. Can the old cell trigger the NO FLOW error? 2. How to determine the cell's age? Thank you.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/30/2019 

Hello Dan - We'll assume that all of the cables are plugged in and not damaged. Can you manually pinch the two prongs of the flow switch? If the No Flow error goes away, you have low flow in the system. The cause could be a dirty filter or a basket that's full of leaves. If the No Flow error does not go away, you need to replace the Main Board.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/30/2019 

Thanks for the reply and suggestion Robert. All cables/plugs were replugged just in case and made no difference. I think I will toss the Hayward's garbage into trash and connect the inline manual chlorinator. I am fed up with this electronic BS.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/30/2019 

If you decide not to wave the white flag, check out the Hayward Troubleshooting Guide for more tips on how to fix the problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/30/2019 

Yeah, frustration had set in already. Not waving the flag now will result in hundreds of dollars in sensors, cells and mainboards later.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/29/2019 

If the salt panel continues to read wrong salt level....is that the cell going bad or the panel?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/30/2019 

Hello Dave - The usual cause of the wrong salt cell reading is the salt cell. In some systems, like the Intellichlor, it can also be the flow switch assembly.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/29/2019 

I have a AquaRite system I replaced the circuit board and the cell last summer. Started up this year everything was good at first then my circuit panel reads hot I tested salt level it is 3200 I cleaned the cell but still same reading could I have a bad cell
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/2/2019 

The "Hot" message is meant to be displayed if the water temp is over 140°. Assuming this is not the case, the next thing to do is to reset the AquaRite.  Switch the unit "off", unplug the cell from the box, then wait three minutes.  Now plug in the cell securely, set the unit to "Auto".  The unit should now function normally. If the problem persists, there could be an issue with the main circuit board or salt cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/21/2019 

My salt cell is ALWAYS reading low salt? I added 3 bags (120lbs) like the pool store suggested. Still low salt indicator. What next?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/24/2019 

Have you actually had your water's salt level tested to verify the reading? If so, what was the result of the salt test?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/3/2019 

I have a Intellichlor IC40 salt cell (2014) that now has black plates. It is still generating chlorine but I took a water sample to the pool store and the salt level has dropped to 2000 from 3000 last summer. Is that an indicator of a bad cell or something else?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/8/2019 

Bob - have you tried an acid soak to clean the cell plates? This usually clears any gunk that may be present.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2019 

I tried an acid soak today and the cell plates are still black, would you recommend a new cell? I am starting to get a light dusting of algae too. Salt level at 2500, ph 7.8, chlorine at 5.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/17/2019 

Hello Bob - We'd be glad to assist you. How old is your salt cell? Is your free chlorine level at 5 or is that your total chlorine level? What is your stabilizer level?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/17/2019 

HI Robert, My test strips only show FCI at 5, ALK at120, PH at 7.8 and CyA at 150. My salt cell is 5 years old and I feel it is not performing at 100%. Thanks, Bob
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/17/2019 

The average lifespan of a salt cell is 3-5 years. It's probably time to replace it. The one thing you may want to keep an eye on is that CYA level. At 150, it will impact the free chlorine in a negative way. I would try to keep the CYA level between 50-70 ppm. You can reduce the CYA level by draining some water and adding fresh water.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/1/2019 

I have a Blue Essence Salt Cell and Generator. The store says that slat cell is working fine. The Led in the display has salt reading one day at 3000, the next day at 2400, the next day at 400. The store has the pool reading at 3100 wth a water temp of 68. One minute it generates chorine and the next minute it stops.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/9/2019 

Hello Glynn - Make sure the correct salt cell is selected within the control box. To check this, press the diagnostic until a "T" number appears. Make sure the "T" number matches your cell type. For example, a T15 would be the correct number for a T-CELL-15. If the "T" number matches, check out the Aquarite troubleshooting guide. 
 Reply

 Posted: 4/16/2019 

I have an older gold line aqua rite and when I hit the diag button t-xx never appears. Hit only has 7 functions not 8 like your talking about( the 8 th press shows the cell) do u know how to check what cell is selected on my system? Thanks in advance
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/18/2019 

Hello Cory - What is the revision of your firmware?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/18/2019 

R1.40 is software revision. And is that revision compatible with the t15 cells now? If not is the firmware hard coded or is it just a chip? Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/19/2019 

The T15 cell will work with revision 1.4. The T15 will work with all revisions. To my knowledge, the firmware is hard coded.
 Reply