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How To Install a Pool Sand Filter

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This guide describes the steps required to install a Hayward sand filter. The picture at left shows the two major components of a typical sand filter: the Filter Tank and the Multiport Valve and piping assembly. When installed, the valve sets on top of the tank and the vertical pipe the lateral assembly are inside the tank.

Click Here to View Our Available Sand Filters 

 



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Step 1

Before starting the installation, you will need to purchase sand. Use only high rate No. 20 Silica Sand. An example is pictured at left. Check the manufacturer to determine the amount required. This unit (Hayward S180T) uses 3 50 lb bags of sand - 150 lbs total. You can also purchase our superior to sand Click here for our Sand Alternative.

Please click here to view sand filter alternative. 

Step 2

When installing the pool sand filter, you will connect it right after the pump. Pool water will come in through the pool pump, be filtered through the sand filter and released to the chlorinator before returning back to the pool. If you have a pool heater, the pool filter will release water to the heater before going to the chlorinator.

Click Here to View Our Available Sand Filters

Step 3

The pool filter should be installed on a level concrete slab not more than 6 feet above the pool water level. Position the pool sand filter so that the piping connections, multiport valve and drain are convenient and accessible for operation and maintenance. Place the filter next to pump.

Step 4

Before you connect the pool sand filter into the piping system, you have to assemble the filter. First, screw the pressure gauge to the 1/4" hole on the side of the filter. If the threads aren't prepared, wrap them with two layers of Teflon tape. Start in a clockwise direction at the first thread with a half-width overlap for the full length of the thread. Be careful when screwing the gauge on. Use a wrench on the square nut on the final turns.

Please click here to view teflon tape.

Step 5

Make sure drain cap is securely in place.

Step 6

Fill tank about 1/2 way full with water to provide a cushion when the sand is poured in. This will help protect the laterals.

Step 7

Next you will be installing pipe and lateral assembly inside the tank. Separate the valve from the pipe and lateral assembly. Also make sure the 10 laterals at the end of the pipe are rotated up. They have to be in their up position to fit through the hole in the top of the tank. These laterals are somewhat fragile. Ensure that none are cracked or broken. Place the pipe and lateral assembly inside the tank.

Step 8

After the lateral assembly is inside, carefully rotate the 10 laterals 90 degrees in their down position.

Click Here to View Our Available Sand Filters

Step 9

Make use the pipe is centered in the opening. Tape the top of the pipe to prevent sand from entering and clogging the laterals.

Step 10

The sand filter package comes with a cardboard sand shield. Place this over the pipe and within the opening.

Step 11

Pour sand carefully into the pool sand filter until laterals are fully covered. For this unit 3 bags should leave at least 6" space between the top of the sand and the top of the filter. Level sand as you pour and make sure the center pipe remains centered in the opening. Be careful when leveling the sand that you do not lift the pipe and lateral assemble up off the bottom of the tank. You will not be able to push the pipe back down without causing the laterals to rotate up.

Step 12

Lightly lubricate the valve/tank O-ring with a silicone lubricant and place it on the underside of the valve.

Please click here to view the magic lube o ring lubricant.

Step 13

Remove tape from top of pipe. Slip the Multiport control valve onto the central pipe - check the O-ring to ensure it is positioned correctly.

Step 14

Install clamp around the tank and valve flange. Loosely tighten clamp so that the valve can be rotated on the tank for final positioning.

Step 15

The next step is to connect the "PUMP" port of the multiport valve to the discharge side of the pump. You will need to screw a straight thread adapter (purchased at a hardware store) into the "PUMP" port. To help seal this connection wrap two layers of Teflon tape the adapters. Start in a clockwise direction at the first thread with a half-width overlap for the full length of the thread.

Please click here to view teflon tape.

Step 16

Screw the adapter into the "PUMP" port. Hand tighten than wrench tighten no more than 1/2 to 1 1/2 additional turns. Do not over tighten or you cause the joint to fail.

Step 17

Cut a short piece of pipe and glue it to the adapter. Make sure the pipe and inside of the adapter are clean. Gluing is a two-step process. First apply a thin but even coat of purple primer on each surface to be joined: the outside of the pipe and the inside of the adapter. After the primer dries, apply a thin even coat of glue to both surfaces. Immediately push the pipe all the way into the adapter and twist 1/4 turn to spread the glue. Wait 30 seconds for the glue to set.

Step 18

Glue on a union to facilitate future maintenance on the pool sand filter or pump. In 5-7 years you will have to disconnect the multiport valve from the tank to change the filter sand. A union will save you from having to cut it out of the piping.

Step 19

Screw another adapter into the discharge side of the pump then add piping and elbows required to connect the filter and pump ports.

Step 20

Connect the "RETURN" port to a line returning to the pool. In a basic system this connection will probably be to the Chlorinator. Also add a union to this line for future maintenance.

Step 21

Connect up the "WASTE" port up to a wastewater hose. Note: This picture does not show the water hose.

Please click here to view the backwash hose.

Step 22

Tighten multiport valve flange clamp with a screwdriver. Tap around the clamp with the screwdriver handle as you are tightening the clamp to help seat the clamp properly. Place vinyl protector caps over the ends of the screws.

Step 23

Your new pool sand filter should now be ready to operate. Generally you would want to backwash the sand filter now, but if you have a new concrete of gunite pool, or have a large amount of dust or debris, start the filter in the "FILTER" setting initially (NOT "BACKWASH") to prevent clogging the laterals. After a couple of hours on FILTER, go to the next step and start the BACKWASH cycle.

Step 24

With the pump OFF, depress the multiport valve handle fully and turn it to the "BACKWASH" position. Make sure that your waste line is rolled out to where you want to dump the pool waste water.

Step 25

Prime and turn ON the pool pump. Be sure that you have at least one suction and all discharge lines open.

Click Here to View Our Available Sand Filters 

Step 26

Run the pool pump for 2 minutes after you have a steady flow of water out the waste line (after the pump is fully primed). This will flush all the impurities or fine sand particles out of the sand media.

Step 27

Turn the pool pump OFF and turn the valve handle to "RINSE".

Step 28

Turn the pump back ON and run until the water in the sight glass is clear. This should take no more than 1 minute.

Step 29

Turn the pool pump OFF and turn the valve handle to "FILTER".

Step 30

Turn the pool pump ON. This is the normal operating mode for your filter. Note the pressure gauge reading. This is your clean sand filter pressure. As contaminates build up and clog your sand the pressure will climb. When it is 8-10 psi above your clean filter reading, it's time again to backwash your filter.

Click Here to View Our Available Sand Filters

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(41 to 80 of 159)

Anonymous  Posted: 6/13/2016 

Busted replaced the laterals and sand in my filter ran great cut it off to add tabs now it is not wanting to prime any ideas?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/8/2016 

Thanks for a great 'how to'
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/6/2016 

skimmer blow out - I need to understand your problem better. Where is the water getting sucked in? And, when you say the water is "blown out through the skimmer", is it flowing backwards from the filter through the pump to the skimmer?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/5/2016 

I have above ground pool everything is hooked up correctly water getting sucked in and blown out though skimmer/
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2016 

Martin - Not sure what you mean by maxed out. If it's operating at around 30 psi with new sand, your pump may be too powerful for that filter. If you have to downsize the pump, the cheapest thing to do is to replace the current impeller with the next smaller size.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/29/2016 

I have installed as above and our pressure on the filter is maxed out. Do you have any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/13/2016 

LEROY - We recommend changing the sand in your filter every 5-7 years. See our guide on "How To Change Sand In a Sand Filter".
 Reply

 Posted: 5/12/2016 

HOW OFTEN DO YOU GOT TO CHANGE THE SAND OUT IN THE FILTER
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/25/2015 

new filter - Most people run their filters 8-10 hours a day during the swimming season.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 8/24/2015 

how long do I run my filter for after installing a new sand filter?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/9/2015 

filter before pump - There would be at least three problems with putting the filter before the pump. First, any debris that would normally be collected in the strainer bucket would go directly into your filter and second, you probably would not be able to prime you pump. The filter tank would have to be completely full of water before the pump could suck water into the front end of the pump. Then you would also have the problem of how to direct the water to the desired function after the pump: waste, filter, backwash, etc.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/8/2015 

Is it possible to install the sand filter before the pump or suction side? If not, what is the reason? Thanks..
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/23/2015 

Filter base - The filter should be installed on a level and stable base to operate properly. Also when it starts to tip, you will be putting extra strain on the connecting piping and other equipment.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/23/2015 

Can you put a silica sand filter directly on ground or is it better to place on a base? By putting directly on ground will it eroid faster and will it get tippy when water is drained out in winter?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/11/2015 

Cyn - If you are referring to the label on top of the multiport valve, there is a good picture of it on this product site: Hayward Multiport Variflo XL 1 1/2" SP714T. Click on the smaller label picture at the top right. The handle is partially covering the “Recirculation” mode.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/10/2015 

I am using hayward filter S180T The label plate is missing Is there a picture of it anywhere so I can figure out . Thanks for any h.elp
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/30/2015 

Don - It sounds like you may be getting air into your system through a air leak in the suction side of your pump. Check all the connections between the pool skimmer and the pump. See our guide on "How to Identify and Correct Air Leaks" for further information.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/29/2015 

When we run the pump there is a gurgling noise coming from the filter any ideas its a 22" sand pump & filter by waterway?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/12/2014 

ciocca77 - Generally the ports on a small to medium filter are 1 1/2", but they can be 1 1/4" on an above ground pool filter. Measure the inside diameter of the port fitting to be sure.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/11/2014 

I wanna hard pipe my sand filter also, is that 1.5 or 1.25 inch pvc pipe glued into the fittings that thread into the filter? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanx
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/10/2014 

Jim - I'm sorry but we don't have a diagram on you filter. Generally the free end of the air release tube is placed at the top of the tank in the space between the sand and the top of the tank. I suggest calling the manufacturer for more specific directions.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/9/2014 

Your install directions are the closest I've found to match my unit from blue devil. As a top mounted multiport valve, directions do not tell me how the air release tube is installed which is coming from the base of the laterals. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/3/2014 

Tamara - If your multiport valve is set on "Waste" while you are filling your pool, move it to "Filter". If the valve is not on "Waste", you probably have a damaged spider valve in the multiport valve that is letting water out the Waste line. To replace this gasket see our guide on "How to Replace a Spider Gasket on a Multiport Valve".
 Reply

 Posted: 7/30/2014 

I'm filling my pool for the first time and I get the water to skimmer level and I keep losing it out the waste line on the filter. Should I have my filter on closed to fill the pool? Help
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/13/2014 

Laterals - I don't really understand your question. Are you trying to get the laterals out of the tank? Depending on the make of your sand filter, some laterals rotate up from the hub as shown here while other are individually screwed out of the hub.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/12/2014 

I have a sand filter I need to put the sand back in. The laterals don't bend. Is there a easy way to to do this?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/8/2014 

Pool boy - If you lost prime when you were vacuuming, you may have a leak in your vacuuming line. Can you shut that line off and try priming with only the regular filtering line open? Fill the pump for 5 minutes to get water back in the suction line. Also, if you had a lot of debris in your pool that went into a cartridge filter, you should clean that out good. If you have a sand filter, try replacing the top 6" of sand to get some flow so you can backwash 2-3 times.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/6/2014 

I just hooked up a gifted Hayward pump filter, short of a few leaks I had great success. Before turning it off for the night I decided to vacuum the pool. Doing so I lost my prime-I proceeded to run through the start up procedure again, my hope is I didn't plug the system it will not fill with water. Any quick fix ideas??
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/3/2014 

Dougjonz - For the Hayward S180T filter shown in this guide, the filter discharge port connects to a 1 1/2" PVC pipe, the larger filter will connect to 2" pipes.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/1/2014 

Do you happen to know the size of the pipe connected to the filter discharge? Is it 1.5" PVC
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/22/2014 

danny - These drain caps usually come with an O-ring. Did you inspect and replace the O-ring? And if it still leaks, try wrapping 3-4 layers of plumber tape around the drain port threads.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/21/2014 

I installed a new screen and drain cap on my hayward sand filter. I tightened it as tight as I could but could not stop it from leaking. Any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/14/2014 

Newhouse-oldpool - See our guide on "How To Go From Cloudy To A Crystal Clear Pool" for a possible solution for your cloudy water. And your can put a small amount of DE in the filter now.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/13/2014 

Thanks for the quick response. Regardin the flakiness-- that is all gone. Only when i first brushed/vac'd the pool did i see flakes. Its as if it all dissolved now, as i do not see any debris floating- just very cloudy water. No change after the filter ran three days straight. pH,alk, and chlorine levels were good when we tested water two days ago at local pool store. I also have a solar cover on top all week so there is no new debris falling in.... So whatever it is is just not filtering out even with new sand. Sand when i checked in old pump did have larger old debri in it though (even after several, prbably too many, backwashes). I was going go with zeolite filter media this time instead of sand... Can i add cellulose or a small amount of DE rigt away or should i give several days of running before adding any extras to filter?

My bags of shock i believe have tri-chlor.. Should i put a different type of shock in when i shock for this weekend?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/13/2014 

Newhouse-oldpool - The "white flakyness" may still be in your filter and is recirulating. This should be solved with the new pump and filter but you may have to backwash 2-3 times. If there is no Rinse setting, you would Backwash then go to Filter. Recirculate just bypasses the filter. Waste also bypasses the filter. See our guide on "How a Multiport Valve Operates".
 Reply

 Posted: 6/12/2014 

We bought a new house last year. Swamp green pool. Got the water to a cloudy blue before closing for winter. Opened a couple weeks ago and everything settled to bottom - white flakyness when I brushed it (should have vac'd to waste but didnt know). Now water is very cloudy. Got chemicals to good levels and ran filter for at least 3 days straight and change. What could be wrong? I also tried some clarifier and it did nothing.
Notes: 10,0000 above ground gallon pool. Good flow, new sand, old filter and pump. 4 setting valvle (no rinse). I forgot to backwash initially when first running with the new sand..

(We order an entirely new filter+pump which arrives tomorrow -- if there is no rinse setting -- should I backwash and then go straight to filter? Or Recirculate? Or waste and THEN Filter?)

Sorry for so many questions. New to this!!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/9/2014 

soap suds - Try backwashing and rinsing the filter 2-3 times in a row to clear whatever has collected in the new sand.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/9/2014 

Hope you can help. Just opened the above ground pool, new sand in filter. But there is a white film. like soap suds coming out of the filter. It was there before putting in chemicals. What have I done wrong?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/29/2014 

Trouble in Florida - If you have good water flow, it sounds like you have to replace your pressure gauge.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/28/2014 

I just changed out the and three weeks ago and just noticed that the pressure indicator is showing 0 psi still. I backwashed it and a bunch of junk came out but it still shows 0 psi. Is this normal or could it be a bad indicator? Thanks
 Reply