As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing
Shannon Posted: 6/26/2022
My salt generator was working fine, we changed our pump and now when it is running the generating light comes on for 2-3 minutes and then my check cell and low salt light comes on. It’s not my cell, I tried in on another pool. What could be the problem?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/27/2022
First, the new pump, is it a dual or variable speed set to a lower RPM? Another possibility is a dirty filter. If so, it could be causing a water flow issue. Or it could be a coincidence that the cell started flashing alerts after the pump service. It could just be time for your to clean it.Reply
Mohammad Posted: 6/23/2022
Hi. My “Diagnostic” button is not working. Any suggestions?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/24/2022
If it's not working then you would need a new display board (GLX-PCB-DSP) to have a fully functional user interface.Reply
john Posted: 6/20/2022
voltage climbs to about 17.7 power and generating on, then climbs past and it shuts off and repeats, please helpReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/27/2022
We need to know the part number and the amperage of the cell.Reply
john Posted: 6/27/2022
replaced thermister,problemsolvedReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/29/2022
Thank you for the update.Reply
Mike Posted: 5/20/2022
My temperature reading is 115 that is way higher than the pool temperature of 80. What is the problem?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/23/2022
Is the cell still producing chlorine?Reply
Ian M. Posted: 5/18/2022
Hello. Had to buy a replacement main board as I found char marks on the red and black power plugs on the board. Installed the new board and worked for a few hours. Just checked and evey since it's been power cycling on and off. I checked and even when the display is off there's still voltage to the red and black power plugs. Any thoughts?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/23/2022
I'd check your wiring or have an electrician come in to inspect the circuit. You may have an issue with the amount of voltage reaching the control box.Reply
Bill Posted: 5/9/2022
Just opened the pool and my Aqua Rite LED opens/starts by showing "90P," which is the the "Desired Output" code, which should be the fourth display after opening with the Salt Level. Resetting makes no difference. Do I need a new motherboard?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/11/2022
What are the voltage and amps readings in the diagnostic menu? Make sure the correct cell size is selected before copying down the readings.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 4/21/2022
Unit does not go into no flow when flow switch is unplugged. Also pull foams up when generator is on and adding fill waterReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/22/2022
If the pool water foams when adding water, it's telling you it has high levels of total dissolved solids (TDS); you need to clean your pool with a clarifier or flocculant. Is the chlorinator creating chlorine? Is the chlorinator showing a "No Flow" when the flow switch is installed?Reply
Kenneth Laquinta Posted: 8/11/2021
My salt chlorinator seems to work fine on super chlorinate, but when I switch to Auto, the generating light does not come on and it seems as though salt is not being produced. Why/Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 8/12/2021
When on super chlorinate, the cell runs for 24-hours straight. When you select Auto, the cell reverts to the output percentage selected. So, if you have a 40% set as the output, the cell will only run 40% during any given hour. The cell will alternate turning on/off in an hour in any given hour; it would produce chlorine for 40 percent of the time while not producing chlorine 60 percent. You may just be looking at the box when the cell is in the middle of an off-cycle.Reply
Toni Posted: 7/21/2021
I just replaced my t-cell. Display is working, but salt level reading never changes from 2500. I tested input power with volt meter and got 123.1 reading. The power/generating/super chlorinate LED come on, stay on 16 seconds, then go off for about 40 seconds, then back on for 15 - 18 seconds, then off again for about 15 seconds. Round the clock! Help!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 7/23/2021
Did you check the diagnostics menu to confirm the correct cell type is chosen? it may also take a day or so for the cell to get the average salinity level.Reply
Brian Topolewski Posted: 7/16/2021
Here is the problem: When starting up, the no flow light blinks, then generating light glows, but no "power" light. The generating light then goes off. I replaced the PCB as a lightning storm fried it, Replaced the cell (fortunately under warranty and it was free), did then diagnostic tests and all resistances and AC voltage input was within tolerances. However the VAC coming out of the transformer only measures 11 Volts. I am feeling the transformer needs replacement also. Could this be the issue?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 8/4/2021
If lightning fried the main PCB then there's a very good chance it damaged the transformer too. The AquaRite replacement transformer, GLX-XFMR.Reply
SJB Posted: 11/9/2020
My aqua-rite salt level started showing 2.2 instead of 3200. I don't know where the decimal point thing came from...I have had this system 10 years and changed the main board twice but I never had the salt level display with a decimal point. My salt cell is only 1 month old. I have disconnected it...done everything. It is still generating because I check my chlorine daily with a electronic device and test strips. Has anyone had this happen to them and how do you fix it. The decimal point thing isn't going to work for me.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 11/10/2020
You may have accidentally changed the unit of measurement from the US standard to metric. You can see how to change it back using this guide: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCGReply
richard henry roulette Posted: 8/3/2020
when i turn on generator things look normal. . after a few seconds the generator light goes off aand the check salt light turns red solid and the cell light comes on solid.. i cleaned the cell and nothing changes . salt level is good. what do you recommend i do. ?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/3/2020
I would make sure that your control panel is set to the correct cell size. This value can be changed by accident pretty easily. You can also try recalibrating the salt level. This guide gives you the steps on how to complete both of those tasks, and a few other things to check: Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite SystemReply
Anonymous Posted: 6/6/2020
I have a no flow flashing and generations won’t stay on. Pool company changed out the board and put on a new cell. Still the same thing.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/23/2020
Did they check that the flow switch is working correctly? Unscrew the flow switch from the plumbing tee and pinch the metal flap and rod together for a minute. If the no flow light doesn't go out, you have a bad flow switch.Reply
Ron Posted: 4/23/2020
My chlorine read out is 3.40. How do I change it to 3400. I've been through the service manual and don't find how to changeReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/24/2020
The steps to changing units of measurement can be found here: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCGReply
Anonymous Posted: 4/24/2020
Thanks, that fixed itReply
Blake Posted: 3/18/2020
My control panel shows the green power light but the screen is blank. Ideas?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 3/19/2020
I found this answer on our forum:I'd check the seven pins from the main board to the display board just to make sure that they are seated properly - one pin per hole. I'd also check pins 2 and 4 (from left to right) for a range of 3 to 5 VDC. If all pins are seated properly and pins 2 and 4 measure within range then I'd consider changing the display board.This is the parts page for the Hayward AquaRiteReply
Donna Posted: 3/15/2020
My display is showing HOT? What does this mean?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 3/16/2020
The AquaRite's 'HOT' pops up if your water temp is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Check your water temp reading. If your AquaRite's water temp reading is 215 degrees the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.Reply
Jeff Posted: 5/23/2019
i have an aquarite generator. i'm not producing any chlorine. I changed the cell but the control panel is still doing the same thing - so appears it wasn't the cell. Both the power and generating lights come on solid green for 15 seconds and then turn off for one minute. During that minute the voltage climbs from 3 to 18. a few seconds after the power and generating lights turn solid green - the voltage drops back down to 3. this cycle is just repeating itself over and over again. Assume there's an issue with one of the components in the control panel? thx for your help!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 5/23/2019
Hello Jeff - Like Dean in the comment below, I'd check the current limiter on the main board. I'd also go through the troubleshooting flow chart on page 31 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide.Reply
Dean Posted: 5/21/2019
My Aqua Rite was not reading salt level correctly. Added salt to bring to 3000 and no change in readings. Salt cell was cleaned/serviced with no change. I replaced salt cell and readings went to 3500 but hasn’t changed even with significant rain diluting pool. Now the controller power light and chlorinating light will come on for 10 seconds and go off for 2 minutes and then continue to cycle on and off. Is this an indication to replace circuit board? I have power to board (220) and connections are good. Fuse is good.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 5/22/2019
Hello Dean- We'd recommend checking the current limiter on the main circuit board. It's a flat round black disk that sticks out from the board. That piece can crack and cause symptoms like you are experiencing. Click here to view a video that shows the replacement of a current limiter. For more tips, check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide and the Quick Reference Guide.Reply
chris Posted: 5/17/2019
what's the typical life span of a T Cell 15?Reply