As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/3/2016
fuse blows - Sounds like you may have a short in the cell or wiring from the cell. Check the cell terminals and the cell cable for shorts. If you don't see anything, call Hayward at 866-772-2100. Their tech staff should be able to isolate your problem.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 5/1/2016
My Aqua rite electronic chlorine generator - the fuse blows when the cell is plugged in. When the cell is not plugged in the power stays on but the minute I plug the cell in, the fuse blows.I replaced the cell last fall and have been having this problem since
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Anonymous Posted: 5/1/2016
I turned breaker off in order to take cell off to clean. I reinstalled cell and turned breaker back on...pump works great but salt system display is off. Thought perhaps blew a fuse so replaced...still no display on salt system. Have had no issues with display until now...any ideas?Reply
Imyopools Posted: 4/29/2016
Bud - Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It should help you isolate your problem better. Check first that your displayed cell type is the same as you installed cell type (page 4). Then try resetting the average salt level (page 5). If that doesn't work, you may have to clean or replace your cell or replace the main PCB. Hayward tech support at 908-355-7795 can also help you isolate this problem.Reply
Bud Posted: 4/27/2016
Hi. My question is that our Aqua Rite is reading 4000 and not producing chlorine the reading with the test the pool itself is 2800 what should be done to correct this problemReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/25/2016
Graham - You may have a bad Current Limiter on your main PCB. Look at "A Texas Yankee's" solution to this problem (Comment 8/10/15). In his comment, he suggests Googling "no power light Hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".Reply
Graham Posted: 4/25/2016
Hi guys, when my unit is powered up the power light does NOT come on, "no flow" light flashes for a few seconds, then goes out, generating light comes on for a few seconds then it goes out.... no lights are on and it stays that way.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/18/2016
Sue - Here's a link to the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide. Check first that the displayed cell type is set the same as the installed cell, T9. See page 4. Then check your displayed voltage and amperage readings are within the ranges specified for T9.Reply
Sue Posted: 4/17/2016
Hi,I am desperate for help. I have a Hayward Salt Cell T9 that is not generating chlorine. All of my lights are on. It appears that the system is working properly. I took the cell in to the local pool store to have it tested. They said it passed. It is 4 years old. I super chlorinated for 24 hours...nothing. I added a bag of salt:) so salt is now at 3300 still nothing. The panel and the store agree that the salt is within 1000 of this reading. I live in the south so the pool temp is already close to 90 degrees. I am at a complete loss. Please help. Thank you!!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/9/2016
Maureen - Sounds like you may have a bad Current Limiter. Look at "A Texas Yankees" solution to this problem (8/10/15). In his comment he suggests Googling "no power light hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".Reply
Emsand Posted: 4/9/2016
Maureen . . . i have the same problem and just diagnosed the issues . . . its that big black resistor attached to the big circuit board that is next to the small circuit board with the display. The plates separated so needless to say I will be ordering a new board this weekend. Check yours for cracks but make sure the system doesn't have power first you can get an electrical shock and if the system has been on that resistor can be very hot.Reply
Maureen Posted: 4/8/2016
My power light and chlorine generating lights are not on. They come on for a few seconds but then go out again. It is not generating any chlorine at all because I just had my water tested and there is "0". This is about 9 years old. I have replaced the smaller circuit board in the past when the display didn't work. The display is working currently. Aqua rite electronic chlorine generator.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/31/2016
Dan - There is a temperature sensor in the cell that sometimes goes bad. See page 13 in the "Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual". Also check that the Turbo cell type in the control unit is set to the install cell type. See page 4.Reply
Dan Posted: 3/30/2016
The indicator show "hot", but my pool temp is definitely not warm. Low salt light and check cell light on. Professional water test shows salt fine and cleaned cell 2 weeks ago with acid. Just added stabilizer several days ago. Generating light also flashing. Not sure if there is a bad censor or something causing the system to read the temp as hot and if that would cause the cell to not generate chlorine, or if my cell is bad and that could cause the issues. Thoughts?? Thanks!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/29/2016
Phil - Did you reset your "Turbo Cell Type' and 'Average Salt Level' after you installed the new cell? See pages 4 and 5 of this Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual for instructions.Reply
Phil Posted: 3/28/2016
My verified salt level is 3400. The Aqua Rite display indicates 3700. When trying to set the control box to actual salt level reading, the control box indicates a -4400 and will not gradually descend as time passes in order to lock in actual salt level. The salt cell is new and has been verified to "pass" testing. Is there a away to reset control box to read correct salt level? Is the mother broad faulty?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/28/2016
Chrystal - There may be several reasons why your SCG is not generating chlorine. Check to see that the main switch in not in the OFF position. Also, the water may be too cold to operate. Slide the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE to bypass this feature and see if that causes the generate light to come on. Also check your cell to see if it needs to be cleaned. And finally, if your cell is more than 5 years old it may not be operating efficiently and may need to be replaced. Before you buy a new cell, call Hayward at 908 355-7995 to see if they have any other suggestions.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/28/2016
csuito - Sounds like you may have a bad Current Limiter. Look at "A Texas Yankees" solution to this problem (8/10/15). In his comment he suggests Googling "no power light hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".Reply
csuito Posted: 3/28/2016
My controller says listed 6D22. What type of Aquaria system is this?Lights go all dark after a few seconds after turning it on. What could be the problem. Pool is getting green. Salt level was checked at 3000ppm.
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Chrystal Posted: 3/27/2016
I am only getting a power light on my controls.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/16/2016
ack1961 - I'm not aware of a difference in Current Limiter configuration. You might check with Hayward at 908 355-7995 to see if you are on track. I don't know how far you got into our comments on replacing the Current Limiter, but look at "A Texas Yankees" comment to this problem (8/10/15). Google "no power light hayward" and look for the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".Reply
ack1961 Posted: 3/15/2016
Hello, I have a Hayward AquaRite T-Cell-9 (22,500 gal pool). I get readout (salt level, temp, etc.), but no lights. When I restart it, I get a flashing "No Flow" for a minute, then nothing. I've read through most of these comments, and it appears that I might have a bad Current Limiter, so I ordered one (DigiKey part# 570-1062). I started to take the board off in preparation for the part coming, and my main board looks different than the others I've seen. My Current Limiter has "AS32 2R025 4912" and is mounted 90 degrees compared to others I've seen. I think I have a different limiter than most, and now I'm looking at part # 570-1105-ND....does that seem right?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/15/2016
obxcape - Check that the cable from the cell is plugged into the control unit snugly, and check for any breaks in the cable. Then make sure that the installed cell size matches the displayed cell size. See our guide on "How To Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aqua Rite SCG". If still no luck, give Hayward tech support a call at 908 355-7995.Reply
obxcape Posted: 3/15/2016
My SG was showing very high salt readings (5500-6100) and the cell was replaced. Problem persisted. Next, the circuit board was replaced. Problem persists. The salt level is really in the 2800 range. Any suggestions as to what the problem is?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 2/23/2016
"hot" - The LCD display will read "HOT" when the water temperature is above 140 degrees. If the water temperature reads 218 degrees, the temperature sensor in the cell is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced. As a cell ages, it becomes less productive and it's temperature reading becomes less accurate. If your cell is reporting "HOT" (above 140 degrees) and the actual water temperature is significantly below that, it's a good indication that the sensor is bad or the cell is wearing out and needs to be replaced. If the cell has buildups on the plates, try cleaning it first to see if that has any effect.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 2/20/2016
What does it mean when the display reads "hot"?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 1/12/2016
COLD reading - SCGs will generally display a "COOL" message to indicate that the temperature is too cold to operate efficiency and the SCG has shut down. You can manually turn the SCG off until the average temperature rises above 50 degrees.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 1/12/2016
What does a COLD reading mean? And should I cut it off?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 1/12/2016
brian - When your system has no LEDs or display, it's usually your display PCB, but it could also be the system's main PCB. I would suggest calling Hayward at 866-772-2100 to confirm one or the other.Reply
brian Posted: 1/7/2016
hey all, i have a swimpure plus salt unit and when i checked it recently nothing shows up on the unit. its getting power, and the fuse is not blown, but there are no lights or anything on the display. any ideas on what i can check?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 12/28/2015
Sam - Check to make sure that your displayed cell size reads the same as the installed cell label. See our guide on "How To Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aqua Rite SCG". If that's set right, check to see if your cell needs to be cleaned. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell".Reply
Sam Posted: 12/27/2015
Salt level on aqua rite reads 3000.It generates chlorine but when
I get salt level checked at local pool store the salt level reads about 1200 higher than my reading. To keep generating chlorine I must keep salt level above 4000 when checked at local pool store. Could my problem be a bad cell.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 12/22/2015
Jim - A couple of things to check. You may have already done them but if not: I think you said your generation light stays on. How do you know your SCG is not generating. Low chlorine level? Depending on its age, your cell(s) may have reached the point where they need to be replaced but I'm also assuming that your T9 cell is new. When your change cells from T3 to T9 and back you have to match the setting in the controller. Looks like you also know that but see our guide on "How To Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aqua Rite SCG" to check the procedure. Lastly, check your water chemistry at a local pool store to make sure your salt level is reading correctly and that your stabilizer is sufficient to maintain your pool's chlorine level.Reply
Jim Posted: 12/17/2015
My panel reads correctly including power and gen lights and proper amps for the cell. It is set to 100%. The lights and amps stay up for several minutes of generation. I don't see them drop or the lights go out. I am not generating. Salt is at 3000. Cell is cleaned. I have my T9 cell in place but I put back my T3 cell for a few days resetting the cell in the controller each time. What could cause this? It seems like the controller is working and I have operated 2 different cells and the numbers all look right but no generation. What am I missing?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 11/16/2015
DFW runner - This problem is usually related to the display PCB but since you have just replaced that board and the main PCB and the fuse is good, I don't have an answer for you. I would suggest calling Hayward/Goldline direct at this point at 888-772-2100. They should be able to help you.Reply
DFW runner Posted: 11/14/2015
Getting no display or lights. Checked power and voltmeter read 240. The fuse is good. Replaced both Main PCB and display boards, still nothing. All of the other pool equipment is getting power. I'm at a loss!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/19/2015
Doug - The salt reading measurement on most salt chlorine generation is not that accurate and can vary within the 1000 ppm range you are operating in (2700-2800). The acceptable range for your salt level is 2700 to 3400. I would add enough salt to get up to 3200 so you are not skirting the lower limit.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/19/2015
Spartans - If you know that your T15 cell is bad, I would replace that first to see if your salt readings are better. A bad cell will throw the salt readings off. Then take a sample of your pool water into a local pool store and have them measure the salt level - usually free and more accurate. If your new panel readings are still off, you might try recalibrating your unit. See our guide on "How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values" - steps 9 an 10. If the rest of your LED lights and displays are working on your unit, this is probably the best you are going to get on salt readings. They are often off somewhat from actuals. If you are having other display issues, you may need a new PCB.Reply
Doug Posted: 10/17/2015
Salt level at 2800 per pool supply test however readout is inconsistent. One day it's 2700 and flashing low salt, the next it's at 2800 with no flashing. When it's flashing I can turn power off then back on and at 2700 it sometimes will not flash for rest of cycle or sometimes it does restart flashing. Have been adding very small amounts of salt trying to raise salt level to no avail. Do you know whats up? Thanks, DougReply
Spartans Posted: 10/17/2015
How can you tell if the control box panel is operational - mine reads a low level of salt, below what I believe is the accurate level via test strips. I took my T15 cell in for testing, it was determined to be not working. Now need to determine if the controls are ok. What could cause a lower salt reading than actual - cell or controls? Do the controls wear out over time? whole system is 10 yrs old.thanks
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