How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 


Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 


Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 


Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(521 to 560 of 590)

 Posted: 7/13/2015 

I have aqua rite elect chlorninator salt 3100 ppm cyn 60 run pump for 8 hrs control box ok, no red lights or flashing lights but pool has no chlorine ,clean cell when I clean the cell has no chlr smell Can you help ?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/9/2015 

cell type - The type or size of your cell should be labeled on the cell itself. Options: t-15, t-9, t-5 or t-3.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/9/2015 

High Chlorine - I don't know why a cell would suddenly overproduce. Usually it's a problem of failing not overproducing. You might check that your control unit is configured for your current cell size. Push your diagnostic button 8 times until the cell size is displayed. The size displayed should be equal to the size installed. If it is, you might give Hayward/Goldline a call at 866-772-2100 to see what they think.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/8/2015 

How can I find out which cell type I have so that I can troubleshoot? I have the model and serial number but that's all I can find on the unit.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/8/2015 

But why would it be doing this in the first place? It never did it last year and I had it set to 100% then. I'm worried that there might thing wrong with the cell.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/8/2015 

high chlorine - I would turn the SCG off to stop producing chlorine and add water to your pool if there's room to dilute the chlorine in the pool. With the unit off the chlorine level should go down within a week. If the chlorine level does not come down fast enough naturally, you can try adding this Chlorine Reducer. When you turn the unit back on, only set it at 20-30% and monitor the chlorine generation for a couple of weeks.
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Anonymous  Posted: 7/7/2015 

I have an 18 X 36 pool. My salt water generator is producing too much chlorine and I only have it set at 60%. The salt levels read 3100. The kids eyes are burning and the chlorine levels on the test strips are way too high. Please help. I have a party on the 17th!
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/7/2015 

Firsts asker - Not sure what system you are having trouble with? Are you trying to integrate a Hayward Aqua Rite system with another control system? If so, please give Hayward/Goldline a call at 866-772-2100 and ask for their tech support. They should be able to help you.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/7/2015 

JD - Check to make sure your Aqua Rite system is wired correctly for your supply voltage. Check that your system is configured for the size cell you are using. If these suggestions do not solve your problem, call Hayward/ Goldline at 866-772-2100 and ask for their tech support.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/7/2015 

no salt reading - Not sure what's going on here. I assume none of the LED lights are on. If this is a Hayward Aqua Rite system, I would suggest calling Hayward/Goldline at 866-772-2100 and ask for their tech staff.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/7/2015 

Todd - Recheck to make sure the cable plug is in securely and that there are no breaks or cuts in the cable. Try holding the plug in while the unit is on to see if that makes a difference. If this all has not effect, I would recommend calling Hayward/Goldline at 866-772-2100. Their tech staff should be able to isolate the issue.
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 Posted: 7/5/2015 

replaced clock battery...clock won't set to interior control. Can't set cycles. Pool control will only operate using interior controls controls at board won't run on manual
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 Posted: 7/5/2015 

System stopped working ,after I turn off the control panel the power light comes back on I then turn the system back on and with in a few sections the power and generating light goes out ,this happens each time
Any idea how to fix this?

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Anonymous  Posted: 7/3/2015 

My salt generator doesn't display the salt reading, but I had the salt checked, & the level is perfect. What's the problem?
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 Posted: 7/3/2015 

My "no flow" light is steady, despite flow. The unit is about 9 years old. Took out the flow switch, there was build up on it and some wear on the switch. I tried rubber banding it shut and returning back on the pump - still "no flow." Cable looks fine. Is there a way to tell if it is the switch or the motherboard without getting a new switch to try? Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/28/2015 

Dmoore - I do not know how you can have the power light off and a no flow light on. Please call Hayward/Goldline at 866-772-2100. They should have an answer for you.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/27/2015 

Thank You for taking the time to post all of this info. It helped
 Reply

 Posted: 6/25/2015 

I have an Aq-Trol-rj. I have no lights on at all, the only light that will come on is the no flow light if I shut off the pump. I have checked the fuse it is good. Cell has been cleaned. Where do I go from here?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/23/2015 

Sborodolfan - Check that the cable plug is all the way in at the bottom of the Control Unit. Jiggle it around to see it that gets you a better connection. Check the cable for small cuts. Switch over to Superchlorinate to see if that helps. It bypasses some sensors. If none of this help, give AquaRite/Hayward a call at 866-772-2100 to see what they can suggest.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/23/2015 

Generator stopped giving readings (only zeros) and the No Flow light was on. Replaced the motherboard and it resumed giving readings, but the No Flow remained on. Replaced the flow switch, but nothing changed. The flow switch arrows are pointing in the right direction, and it is configured for the correct cell. Help please, as I have already invested a lot in replacement parts with no result!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/22/2015 

Charli - Yes your power and generating light must both come on and stay on for your generator to work. That is their normal operating mode. It sounds like a voltage problem. Make sure all your electrical connections are tight. Then either take it to a local pool shop or call Goldline/Hayward at 866-772-2100 to help troubleshoot the circuit.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/19/2015 

cgesq - At 15,000 gallons you are at the edge between a 1 HP of 1 1/2 HP pump. If you go to a 1 1/2 HP pump, you may have to also buy a new filter that matches the GPM flow of your new pump. Unless you have a larger than normal filter and assuming your old pump worked for your system, I would recommend staying with the 1 HP pump.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/19/2015 

rguns - Just talked to the AquaRite rep. The E-9 reading you are seeing is probably a lower case t-9 which means you are configured for a T-9 cell instead of a T-15 cell that you just installed. The system may seem to work but you are probably seeing higher than normal salt reading which will shut your system down when your salt levels are actually good. To correct this, hit your display button 8 times until t-9 comes up, then slide your main switch to "Super Chlorinate" then back to "Auto". The display should change to t-15. After a few seconds, your display will revert back default reading for salt level.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/19/2015 

My power and generating light come on but then after about 30 seconds click off. What is causing this and does this mean my generator is not working correctly?
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 Posted: 6/18/2015 

i replaced cell this year. t-15. i didn't think it required reconfigureing the board because it was older than 2004. i finally remembered that i had replaced the board in 2010 so i followed the reconfigureing directions. it took several times for it to begin to work but seems to be working now. but i get a read out of E-9. Do you know what that means?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/15/2015 

mmazzo - I just finished talking to the Goldline rep. According to him, when the display reads "hot", the cell is bad and needs to be replaced. It can no longer be corrected by cleaning the cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/13/2015 

what does "hot" mean in the display? There is nothing in the users manual to describe this problem.Thanks
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/9/2015 

no lights - If none of the LEDs are lit and the display is blank, I would have checked the fuse. But since the display is functioning and there is no power light, I would suspect the Display PCB needs to be replaced. Check with Goldline/Hayward at 866-772-2100 before buying the board. The Main PCB may also be involved.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/9/2015 

The no flow light blinked but then went out and no lights are lit but the diagnostic numbers are still showing. a few at 00 but the rest appear to be working
I do not think it is working as I have no chlorine level salt system was cleaned 2 weeks ago

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/6/2015 

EMet - Check your cable for possible breaks and to make sure the plug is in tight. Then give Hayward/Goldline a call at 866-772-2100. You may need a PCB board, but I don't know if it's the main or display.
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 Posted: 6/5/2015 

I have my "Desired Output" dial set in the teens, but the digital display fluctuates up and down in the 40-50% range. Is it possible to recalibrate this or is a new dispaly board my only option?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/1/2015 

marypr2 - If you are not at the lowest cell size now, you do have the option of replacing your current cell with a smaller one. Assuming you are at the smallest cell now, once the chlorine level gets down to below 5, you should be able to control it better. Leave it a 10%-20%, run the pump for a shorted period of time and maintain your Cyanuric Acid at the lower end of its range so excess chlorine burns off quicker. Also make sure your cell is calibrated with your control box. See Step 31 of our guide on "How to Install a Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generator". The cable plug must be unplugged before you configure the cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/31/2015 

Hello-
I am hoping you can help. Our chlorine cell is over chlorinating and I would like to fix it. The salt reading is out of calibration, at 8300 (lab says 3400), but the system still runs so I ignore the salt it says. I could not get it to calibrate last year. However, I have turned off the chlorinator for days at a time, and turned it down to 20% for a week, and it still reads 10 ppm. I won't swim in it at 10 ppm. I have now turned off the chorinator and add sodium thiosulfate carefully to drop the Cl to 5 ppm. I do not want to continue running the controller on manual. If I have to do that I might as well not have the chlorinator/controller. Do I just need to replace part of the curcuit board or what?

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2015 

Scrapguy - I assume you have had this unit working and the "No Flow" came on. Recheck the flow switch connector into the bottom of the control unit. Wiggle it around. Then carefully check the wire to see if it has a small cut in it. Pull the flow switch out of the pipe to make sure it closes easily. When you put the switch back, make sure that the arrows on the top of the hex are pointing in the direction of flow. If none of this works, you may need to buy a new flow switch.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/29/2015 

i have a issue with No Flow. Cleaned the unit but still No Flow. All connections are good. Any ideas?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/25/2015 

Redsox3313 - Check all you electrical connections but it sounds like a printed circuit board fault. I would call Hayward/Goldline a call at 866-772-2100 to be sure.
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 Posted: 5/23/2015 

When I opened pool for the season I turned on aquarite and started functioning fine . Now only PPm shows and no other lights. Even when I turn off. Any recommendations?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2015 

Mschr21132 – Not sure what “hot” means. It’s not in the troubleshooting section. It could mean the water temperature is too high but that generally is not an issue. Give Hayward/Goldline a call at 866-772-2100. They should have an answer.
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 Posted: 5/18/2015 

My generator reads "hot". Not sure what to do.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/17/2015 

GMS - I'm not familiar with this problem. Check that you are configured for the correct voltage. Check that your system is calibrated for a T15 cell. Then call Hayward/Goldline at 866-772-2100 to see if they have other suggestions.
 Reply