As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/1/2016
RickyB - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual that shows you how and where to test your system. Make sure you have reset your Turbo cell type and average salt level, pages 4 and 5 of this guide. And clean your cell with acid if you haven't done that recently.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 9/28/2016
I just installed a brand new T cell 3 and a brand new PCB-RITE board. 24 hrs after installing the board, the display reads "5 low". Not even the Hayward manual has this on the troubleshooting section. Any idea what it means? The light on the Check Cell is also lit up, which we just replaced a week ago!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/28/2016
Pat - We commented back to Mike with the following but did not get a response. "It sounds like you have done everything I would know to recommend. Like you say, you have basically a new system. Try cleaning the cell with an acid wash (again). If that doesn't work, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their tech staff should have a solution. Also, I don't know which diagnostics manual you have but here's a newer Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual."Reply
RickyB Posted: 9/28/2016
This summer I got a reading of 2800 ( on the Hayward display, all the time. Never changed no matter what output setting I used. Usually 80%. In the past , it's gone up and down, not this year. Water analysis was 3100 last time. Is there a way to check the unit?Reply
Pat Posted: 9/27/2016
Mike Posted: 09/12/2016 10:37 AM With regards to Mikes post, issues with dropping salt reading, was this resolved? Im having the same problem. Aquarite with a T-3. All looks good for a few hours, then it starts to drop. Any help appreciated.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/26/2016
Lance - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It shows you how to check power to the PCB. Many people have fixed their boards by replacing the Current Limiter on the board. See list of related comments below. If you determine that you have a bad PCB and you choose to replace it, Inyopools now offers a more affordable replacement for the Hayward AquaRite Main PC board (GLX-PCB-RITE). Our PC board is an exact replacement for your original Hayward Goldline Aquarite PC board and performs the same exact functions. It is guaranteed to be compatible with any Aquarite T-CELL-15 or T-CELL-9 system. If you have the T-CELL-5 or T-CELL-3 or an automation system (AquaLink, AquaLogic, ProLogic, IntelliTouch and EasyTouch), then we suggest the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITE. If you want to check out how easy install would be there is a video.Reply
Lance Posted: 9/25/2016
Hello,I have a Aqua Rite G1-011056G-1A that seems to have completely died and is getting no power, lights or display. I don't see any signs of burn out.
With no power could the issue be with the transformer (Grey, Viloet, White, Blue) cables ? Anyway to identify it?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/14/2016
Terry - You may have a problem with the Display PCB. Try lifting the Display PCB off of the Main PCB and replacing it a couple of times to make sure the connections are good. If that doesn't work, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. They may have another solution before you buy a new Display PCB.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/14/2016
Mike - It sounds like you have done everything I would know to recommend. Like you say, you have basically a new system. Try cleaning the cell with an acid wash (again). If that doesn't work, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their tech staff should have a solution. Also, I don't know which diagnostics manual you have but here's a newer Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/13/2016
Jl - In a power surge the Current Limiter (CL) on your main PCB might go bad. You would generally see burn marks around the solder joint. Typical characteristics of a bad CL are: Power and Generator lights are off, the No Flow light flashes for 30 seconds or so then goes off, then the Generator light flashes on for 5 secs and goes off. No lights from that point on. Several people have corrected this problem by buying a new CL and replacing (resoldering) the old one. I would check with Hayward before attempting to fix the PCB yourself. If the warranty has expired, see if they have any other suggestions than replacing the board. If they say you need a new board, you have nothing to lose. Try replacing the CL or find someone that has soldered before. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey.Reply
Terry Posted: 9/13/2016
Hi,I have been running my T15 cell now for 2 years and had no problems. The Aquarite control panel display recently went stuck, and I am not able to change the readings using the diagnostic button. The LED lamps are still working or might also be stuck but at least lights show normal generation of chlorine. I just wonder if there might be a card failure or the whole unit needs to be replaced. The panel is located inside my pump room, albeit the humidity in Singapore where I live is often close to 100% and might be a contributing factor.
Any suggestions?
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Mike Posted: 9/12/2016
My problem is that my Hayward salt system does not maintain a constant salt reading. Over the course of approx. 1 week, the salt level on the display slowly falls to 2400 and at that time stops all function as it is suppose to do. I use salt test strips and verify this reading with the pool supply store salt level test to verify actual salt levels in the pool.I've utilized Hayward's troubleshooting guide and every test shows the entire system operating as it should.
I've replaced the salt generator, flow switch, board and wires, and display. Basically the entire system other than the power pack.
Same results. A slowly falling salt reading.
Would love some ideas because I'm not going to bring out a tech who will run the same test and replace the same parts.
Any help would be appreciated.
I've used Haywards troubleshooting manual with no faults detected.
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Jl Posted: 9/11/2016
All thé Lights are off. Il replacer thé fuse AND check AND there is POWER going in. If I stop the breaker and put it back again. The light power goes on but stops after 20-30 seconds. My unit is 10 years old.Thanks for your help
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/10/2016
gprado - If you can, have your water tested at a local pool store to get an accurate reading of your salt level. Then check that your cell type and set to display t-9. Also reset your average salt level. See pages 4 and 5 of Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. And the generation of chlorine is based on what the cell believes the salt level is not actual salt level.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/6/2016
JWMYERS52 - You may have a bad Current Limiter on your main PCB - flat disc on the upper corner of your board. Several people have had success by replacing that disc. See several comments on that subject interspersed below. Also here is a link to the Hayward Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual that might help isolate your issue.Reply
gprado Posted: 9/6/2016
Hello,I noticed that the Hayward salt read out reads 3500 ppm. When I tested the salt with a strip it reads about 2900. The system is not making chlorine. I have cleaned the cell and still the same issue. Also, does the system make the chlorine according to the readout in the system? Or by the actual read out from the strips? I have a T-9 cell.
thank you.
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/6/2016
DavidT - It sounds like the Current Limiter (CL) on your main PCB might be bad. The characteristics of a bad CL are: Power and Generator lights are off, the No Flow light flashes for 30 seconds or so then goes off, then the Generator light flashes on for 5 secs and goes off. No lights from that point on. Several people have corrected this problem by buying a new CL and replacing (resoldering) the old one. I would check with Hayward before attempting to fix the PCB yourself. If the warranty has expired, see if they have any other suggestions than replacing the board. If they say you need a new board, you have nothing to lose. Try replacing the CL or find someone that has soldered before. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey.Reply
JWMYERS52 Posted: 9/4/2016
The power light and lcd display on my unit are on but not the generating light. Unplugged it and turned back on, they came on for a moment and then went off. Also tapped the unit and they came on for just a few seconds. Replaced cell a few months ago. Should I replace board or try just replacing limit switch.Reply
David T Posted: 9/3/2016
When I turn on my Aqua Rite, say I put it on super chlorinate,the power light, the super chlorinate light, and the generate light comes on (check cell flashes for about a second) the top three lights stay on for about 10 seconds, then everything shuts down and two minutes later the same thing starts again? can someone help. I've looked at a few tutorials online and and have removed my board to look on the back for burn marks, everything almost looks brand new (very shiny). I don't know how old it is, we've been here 3 years, maybe its because its in a building?? Oh, also we replaced the cell about 2 months ago.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 8/27/2016
THANK YOU All for this thread. My symptoms were a little different than some posts. My power and generating lights would come on for 30 Seconds and then shut off. They would stay off for about 2 mins and then the cycle would start all over again. All other lights were also off. Replaced the volt limiter and everything is running great again. Thank you for DIY repair. Saved me a ton of money.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/19/2016
T-Cell -15 - the average life of a cell is more like 5 years if the pool water chemicals are maintained consistently and the cell is cleaned at least yearly. A cell will not read the salt level correctly if it needs to be cleaned. Try cleaning the cell with muriatic acid. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell".Reply
Anonymous Posted: 8/16/2016
I've had a salt pool for 10+ years. Every year the Hayward T-CELL-15 quits working... the display reads very low... but the pool is at 3,200. The pool pump runs 24/7 on low speed... and the salt cell is set at 65% Jun - Sep. Is it common for these salt cells to only work for a year... or am I doing something wrong.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/15/2016
scitpoop - Your main PCB is probably going bad. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It has additional checks to help isolate your problem. If your unit is still under warranty, you may want to contact Hayward at 866-772-2100 to discuss getting a replacement.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/15/2016
milky particulate - I doubt that this milky particulate has anything to do with the SCG cell. If you have a DE filter, it may be the filter draining and if you have too much DE in the filter, some of the DE may be pushing out.Reply
scitpoop Posted: 8/13/2016
the power light does is not on. checked the voltage, it is OK. Checked the fuse, it is OK. Whats nextReply
Anonymous Posted: 8/13/2016
Filter pump is on a timer.When there is no flow through the generator into the pool there is a milky particulate with small bubbles and occasional gurgling sounds entering the pool.
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Toucando Posted: 8/8/2016
Here's the history. The board failed (maybe a month ago) with the usual symptoms of a bad current limiter (CL). I had replaced the CL four years ago and it had worked up until then. Since I had ordered two CL's four years ago, I installed the other one and it worked at first but then it failed (in less than a day) with the same symptoms. I decided that I had a bad electrical connection due to a poor job of soldering so I re-soldered it; and it failed again with the same pattern. I then thought it might be that the new CL that I'd put in might be the problem so I ordered four more CL's from Digi-Key and put it in a new one. Again same sequence of events followed by a re-soldering of the same newly acquired CL and again with the same result. It was at this point that I suspected another component on the PCB and contacted you for suggestions. But in the meantime, I made another attempt to re-solder the same CL and so far it is holding now for close to a week. So I figure the problem has always been with the CL and I've just been doing a lousy job of soldering. Maybe with all of my attempts I had overheated and slightly damaged the area of the PCB where the CL is soldered in, thus somehow affecting the connection. Oh well!Reply
68GS (Roy) Posted: 8/8/2016
Right now everything is working ok. I don't have a schematic for this circuit board but it appears after the transformer steps down the ac voltages they are rectified to 12 volts then it appears utilizing that current limiter for the LCD led board. I'll be honest with you we have had multiple issues with this main board for this Hayward salt generator. It's been replaced twice under warranty. No sign of a surge or lightening ( burned components). Is it possible this current limiter needs a higher power rating. On circuit boards with older revisions this same current limiter was causing cold solder joints, maybe from excessive heat. Thanks again for your help and I will let you know right away if I experience any other symptoms.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/8/2016
68GS (Roy) and Toucando - I just talked to Hayward on what is causing the Current Limiter to fail. They said it is due to a power surge or lightening strike. They claim that if the Current Limiter is bad that more components on the card are also bad and that replacing the Current Limiter is only a temporary fix -.that the PCB will fail again shortly. Could you let me know if and when your PCB fails again after you replaced the Current Limiter? I don't want to offer this as a solution if it really doesn't work.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/8/2016
no power light - It sounds like the Current Limiter (CL) on your main PCB might be bad. The characteristics of a bad CL are: Power and Generator lights are off, the No Flow light flashes for 30 seconds or so then goes off, then the Generator light flashes on for 5 secs and goes off. No lights from that point on. Several people have corrected this problem by buying a new CL and replacing (resoldering) the old one. I would check with Hayward before attempting to fix the PCB yourself. If the PCB is under warranty yet, ask for a new PCB. If the warranty has expired, see if they have any other suggestions than replacing the board. If they say you need a new board, you have nothing to lose. Try replacing the CL or find someone that has soldered before. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/8/2016
no chlorine production - First let me ask some of the obvious questions. When you replaced the cell, did you make sure the programmed cell type is set to the actually installed cell type? Is your salt level above 2600 ppm? Did you reset the average salt level? Then, it's probably a problem with the main PCB. Try resoldering the Limiter. One person had to resolder his Limiter twice before he got a good solder joint. Then, you will probably have to talk to Hayward to help troubleshoot your board or to confirm that you might need a new board. Their number is 866-772-2100.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 8/7/2016
Mine is doing the same thing as of today. I got the relays to click on a couple of times with generating but now nothing. Mini fuse is fine.My power light is not lit. Generator light pops on for few seconds then turns off. Chlorine is low and not generating. I changed the 20 amp mini fuse. As it is Sunday, July 3rd.....I need to know what else I can do/check.
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Anonymous Posted: 8/6/2016
Howdy I have a salt water pool I changed the limiter on the board I bought a salt cell to replace I checked ohms on the whole board like transformer and all the leads that are connected to the board anyway I only have my power light on and it won't make chlorine after all that work that I have done to it any ideas?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/6/2016
John - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You generally see burn marks around the disc. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board. Several people have had success with changing this one component.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/4/2016
larry0154 - The displayed value of Desired Output should not float around once you have set it with the dial. Note, when you initially set the value, the displayed valve might not be exactly the same as the dialed value. However, once you have set it, it should not change until you manually change it again with the dial. Call Hayward at 908-355-7995 to see if this is a Printed Circuit Board issue.Reply
John Posted: 8/4/2016
I have an older Aqua Rite system. When it turns on the "no-flow" light is present for about 15 seconds, then the "generating" light comes on for about 5 seconds then goes off. No other lights are on. I have recycled power several times and the same thing happens.Reply
larry0154 Posted: 8/3/2016
This is helpful but I have a new issue with my Electronic Chlorinator. The Desired output has been going to 28% on its own when I have it set to a different %.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/1/2016
toucando - Thank you for your feedback on the inrush current limiter. It seems to be a common problem and your comments will help.Reply
toucando Posted: 8/1/2016
Norman - Sounds like you need a new inrush current limiter on the board (pcb) of your chlorinator control. It's well-documented in this thread.I got mine working now after re-soldering it. Apparently, in my first attempt, it wasn't maintaining a good connection as it heated up, leading me to think that another component was failing; but it was the current limiter after all.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/1/2016
Norman - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board. If the board is still under warranty, I'd check with Hayward about getting it replaced.Reply