Pool pumps are wired to run on either 230V or 115V. Most are run on 230V and are preset at the manufacturers at 230V. If you are going to wire your own pool pump, you must first know what voltage is coming to your pump from the house circuit breaker. Also you must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electrician wire your pump for you or at least check your work.
Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pump motor and void your warranty.
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/26/2012
BP - Sorry, I was going into the motor instead of out. If your motor is 230V and you have two red wires and a green wire coming out of the motor, the two red will both go to load terminals and the green will go to ground in your breaker box.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 4/26/2012
Comments didn't make sense! Yes or no on the 2 red wires being the same. Do you connect a certain way?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/24/2012
BP - I assume you met to say "since both are red" instead of "since both are green". If you are wiring to 230V, the two reds are both hot and go to L1 an L2. There is not neutral and the green always goes to ground. Bonding is a grounding safety net. Generally a wire mesh is laid down in the construction of the pool and all electrical equipment is tied (wired) to this mesh with heavy copper wire. Your new pump should be grounded to this mesh. If you have an above ground pool, your electrical equipment might be grounded to a common metal pipe driven into the ground.Reply
BP Posted: 4/23/2012
I just bought a new pool pump, but the wires are two red and one green. Does it matter where I put them since both are green? Second, what do you mean by bonding? How exactly is this done? I dont have a heater.Thanks
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/22/2012
Paul - Unfortunately we do not sell that motor part.Reply
Paul Posted: 4/22/2012
I need that white piece of plastic that holds the electrical connections and has the 120/240 designation. Mine fell apart, is there a part number for that?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/9/2012
pepper2- In order to control the high and low speed you would need a timer capable of doing so. If you already have a 220 volt timer then you can purchase a T106R. If you do not have a timer then you would need to purchase a T10604R.Reply
pepper2 Posted: 4/7/2012
i have a 1.5 hp 2 speed new emerson motor and would like to put a toggle switch on it so that i can run it in slow speed how do i install a toggle switch ?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/31/2012
Desert Rat - A.O. Smith recently merged with Century. We suggest calling Century direct at 1-800-543-9450 x2670. Their technical staff will be able to help you with your specific motor.Reply
Desert Rat Posted: 3/29/2012
Purchased an A.O Smith to replace a Emerson. New motor came preset for 230 v. Power from timer is 120v reset new motor to 120v. Placed motor into service with neutral to line 1 and hot leg to line 2. Grounded motor.Applied power to find a humming sound.Removed from pump housing and placed on bench.Tested start run cap and found to be good.
Any ideas???
Thanks
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 2/28/2012
Datrim - According to the vendor you do not have to tie into the pool bonding system but you still have to make sure the pump is well grounded at the pump site - tied to a pipe driven into the ground or equivalent. There was concern that the size of your circulation pipes might not be adequate to handle the extra distance to the pool. Might need 2 1/2 to 3" pipe. Have a pool professional check out your new pool system layout.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 2/26/2012
PM - Make sure the arrow on the top of the black box points to 230V. The power from the black and white wires coming out of that box is based on that position. If your motor is running that hot, check your incoming voltage to make sure your have at least 210V going to the motor. Sometimes your house voltage varies and you may be getting low voltage to the motor. If this happens for long, you can burn out your motor.Reply
PM Posted: 2/24/2012
On illustration 6What do the black/white and black wires do as far as setting the voltage that the motor runs on.
I'm having weird problems - I think there is 220 coming from my grey and black wires but the motor runs hot. can't keep my hand on it.
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Datrim1 Posted: 2/23/2012
I moved my pump about 35 feet away from my pool. Do I still need to Bond the pump motor all the way back to the pool? It was bonded before, but it sat about 6 feet from the water.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 1/19/2012
ab - Our responses are crossing. See my last response for answers to some of your questions. As far a how to test your lines with a multimeter, look at our guide on "How to Install an In-Line Salt Chlorine Generator". The initial steps show how to test the output of your timer with a multimeter. Assuming that your new motor is set up for 220V you are looking for 220V coming out of your timer. If the 2 output lines measure 220V use those two lines for input into your motor. Either one goes to L1 and the other goes to L2. Note for 220V power you do not need a neutral line. Tape off your third line, whatever it is. You do not need it. Your green line of course must be attached to the ground lug on your motor.Reply
ab Posted: 1/19/2012
I am replacing my pump which seemed to have run its course. The wires coming from the timer box are red, brown, blue and green. First, how do I test those wires with a multimeter and secondly how do I wire those 4 wires to the new motor?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 1/19/2012
ab - I'm not sure what your wiring is. Colors may vary according to how your service was wired. If your old motor was 220V and your new motor is set up for 220V than I would wire it the same as the old motor was wired, put the blue wire where the black would have gone. Check the voltage across the blue and red wires to make sure it's 220V and make sure your motor is configured for 220V. That's generally how they're shipped from the factory.Reply
ab Posted: 1/18/2012
My old motor froze up. When I unwired it I noted there are 4 wires from the box: black, red, green and BLUE! The previously wiring had the red and blue and green connected and the black wire had a wire nut (not used). What is the blue wire for and how is the new motor to be wired. Thanks in advance for a reponse.Reply
Bobcat Posted: 1/2/2012
Great information on how to wire a pool pumpReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 11/10/2011
bjamin82 - As far as I know, there is nothing in the motor other than an overheating sensor, that would shut the motor off.Reply
bjamin82 Posted: 11/9/2011
Yes you are correct, but it has always been wired this way. What I am being told is that something in the motor sensed that one of the leads was cut and would cut the whole motor. Nothing with the wiring has changed.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 11/9/2011
bjamin82 - If I understand your problem, when your timer shuts off, you still have 120V going to your pump and your pump runs a while and shuts off. If your pump is wired for 220V and it is receiving 120V, it will overheat and shut itself off. This is bad for the motor. Have an electrician look at your wiring.Reply
bjamin82 Posted: 11/7/2011
Hello,I have a question. I have a pool pump that is hooked into a timer. The local electric company also has a "OnCall" box hoooked to it (this allows them to cut power to the pump if they need extra load in my area, I get a credit on my bill regardless). It is wired up with my lead into the timer and the other lead into the oncall box. The lead that is attached to the oncall box is always powered. This is a 220 volt pump. The other day, when the timer clicked off, the pump still had power, but only half. Eventually the breaker tripped. This makes sense since the power lead from the oncall box is always powered. I replaced the timer and I had the power company come out and check the oncall box, still an issue. So it points me to the pump it self. Is there some safety that senses if one of the power leads looses power to cut the motor completely? if so, can it go bad?
thanks
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/25/2011
Sorry but I can't answer this issue without seeing your actual situation. I would recommend contacting an electrician on this one.Reply
AC Posted: 10/24/2011
Need help rewiring a pool pump. Went to help my step-son figure out what was wrong with his pool pump and when I opened up the end of the motor the wires were burned and the terminal board showed signs of heat and was also broken. He was able to buy a replacement terminal board but since the old one was in such bad shape, I'm not sure what wires go where. The pump/motor is a Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro and the wires that attach to the backside of the terminal board are Blue, White and Purple, but to which terminals do they go? Any help would be appriciated.Thank you!!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/19/2011
Bob, From what I know of the theory of electricity, the neutral wire (white) is the return wire for 120V. With 240V the two black and red wires complete the path and a white neutral is not required. I would check with an electrician for a more complete answer. I do know in the context of wiring a motor for 240V, the white neutral wire is not required.Reply
Bob O Posted: 9/16/2011
Connecting the Hayward 1HP Super Pump. Using 240v coming from a GFCI breaker. There are 4 lines: black, red, white, green...(L1, L2, Neutral, Ground). Why isn't there a connection on the pump for the Neutral???Reply
TamrafromCali Posted: 9/5/2011
I totally agree, the information here is a huge help! Especially in times when you can't easily afford to hire a "professional" to come out to your home...Thanks for your generosity!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/4/2011
Little - Sounds like the pump is running OK. Check your gaskets and seals to make sure they are not leaking. Run water into your strainer pot for 5 minutes to fill the pump and pipes and try again. Pump should prime in 2-3 minutes.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/4/2011
Jack - Check your voltage into the pump again. This sounds like a mismatch in voltage. If you have 120V from the breaker and your pump is wired for 220V, the pump will run for up to 5 minutes, get hot and shut off until it cools, then try to run again. If you're sure on the voltage, you will need to have an electrician look at it.Reply
Little132 Posted: 9/2/2011
I just change out my motor and re-wired it. I put the red on L1 and black on L2. The pump sounds fine but I can't get it to prime. Anyone have a suggestion.Reply
Jack Posted: 9/2/2011
All my Wires are good from the box out to the pump, proper Volts, etc. When I turn on the timmer the pump turns on and starts to pump water then it shuts off. It doesn't trip the breaker. It will wait about 2-3 minutes and do it again. The Motor casing was extremely hot. Can I change the OverLoad Protector to keep it cool, or is it the Capasitor, or in the windings. The shaft turns fine and nothing is stuck anywhere, there are no leaks into the housing. What Now????Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/31/2011
Sounds like you are wired correctly but...I can't tell from your description what might be wrong. Have an electrician look at your wiring.Reply
EdWood Posted: 8/30/2011
I'm replacing my pool pump motor and have a question. There are three wires going into the motor (black, white, and a bare copper wire). I used my meter and when I place one lead on white and one on black I get a reading of 240. When I place one lead on ground and one on either black or white I get 120. The old motor had the black on L1, white on L2, bare copper wire to ground and the jumper lined up on the 230 indicator. I wired the new pump up with the same configuration and got a humming sound, at which point I quickly turned it off. Am I doing something wrong?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/22/2011
If you have black and white wires coming from your breaker box to the pump as you describe, it sounds like you have 120V source power not 230V. 230V power usually come in on red and black wires, both hot. Check your source power with a volt meter.Reply
Gonzo Posted: 8/21/2011
I purchased a 1HP replacement motor for my Hayward SP. The original motor was wired for 230V with black wire at L1, white wire at L2 and green to ground. The new motor has the line indicators reversed a screw head switch for 115 - 230. I wired the new motor consistent with the L1, L2 indicators from the old motor but I'm having the same problem as the previous poster. When I close the circuit breaker it immediately trips. Any suggestions?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/17/2011
Sounds like your pump may be configured to run on 120V or isn't properly grounded. Have an electrician check your wiring.Reply
Caleb Posted: 8/15/2011
I'm running a 1HP Hayward at 230V. I wired it according to the instructions and consistent with what’s written here. When I close the breaker though it immediately trips. Now here’s the crazy thing. When I disconnect just one of the power wires the pump runs fine the breakers don't trip. How is it possible for the pump to run with an incomplete circuit?Reply
Anonymous Posted: 6/12/2011
I have a 230V Pentair Whisperflo and would like to hook it up. The diagram simply indicates that L2 is white but I have a red and black wire. Should L1 be black and L2 be red? ThanksReply
Confused Posted: 6/2/2011
When I first put in my aboveground pool, my electrician put in a stake next to the pump and a very long metal ground wire from the stake to the pool and also another wire from the motor to the stake? Is this necessary? Correct?Reply