$779.99

Qty:

By Goldline Controls


Details

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Part # GLXPCBMAIN

Warranty 1 Year

Dimensions 9" L x 6" W x 2" D

Alternate Part #'s 011004G-1 REV: G, G1-066008N-1, GLX-PCB-MAIN, GLXPCBMAIN, GLD-451-1014, HAYGLXPCBMAIN, HPPGLXPCBMAIN

Product Description

Replacement PCB Main board for AquaLogic. Latest version  Use this board to upgrade your 2.0 software and to upgrade to the AquaPalm. software required for AquaPalm.

Use GLX-PCB-PRO for the Hayward ProLogic.

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?     Asked on 5/14/2013by Guest

I just purchased a GLXPCBMAIN for my Hayward Aqualogic system but noticed that it doesn't give me the option for the salt generator. Did I buy the wrong board?
 Reply

A  Answered on 5/14/2013 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

The GLXPCBMAIN is the correct board for the Hayward Aqualogic (salt). The salt chlorine generator option is disabled by default. You will need to go into the configuration menu to enable it.
 Reply


?     Asked on 3/27/2015by Bryan Jones

My old board has PN: 066008G-1. Is this the correct replacement? I purchased another board from Amazon, but none of my chlorine cell or Salt readings show up in the diagnostic menu.
 Reply

A  Answered on 3/30/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Alex V.

Bryan, The GLXPCBMAIN is the main circuit board for the Goldline/Hayward AquaLogic. If you have a different system, this board will not work. We will need the model number of the system in order to confirm.
 Reply


?     Asked on 4/28/2015by Jimbo

I have an older AQL-P-4 what replacement part will work to fix the "no cell power" for my salt chlorinator
 Reply

A  Answered on 4/28/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Alex V.

Jimbo, Yes, the Hayward GLXPCBMAIN will resolve a "no cell power" issue.
 Reply


?     Asked on 5/7/2015by Mo

Is this board compatible with Turbo Cell T-Cell-15 as well as AQL-P-4 which I bought in 2007. Thank you Mo
 Reply

A  Answered on 5/7/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Mo, The GLXPCBMAIN is compatible with the AQL-P-4 controller using a T-Cell-15.
 Reply


?     Asked on 6/12/2015by Inyo Visitor

How hard is it to install circuit board
 Reply

A  Answered on 6/13/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

This is a pretty easy process especially if you follow our guide with Video on How to Replace an AquaRite PC Board. The board on this page is for the Aqualogic and not the Aquarite but the Aquarite video would be very similar to the replacement of this Aqualogic board.
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Difficulty

Est. Repair Time

Less than 1 hr

Tools Needed

Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers

My display was saying no cell power 1 and 2

Written on 6/17/2019 by Guest

It's pretty much plug and play. Get scrap pieces of paper, write what you are unplugging and tape it to that cord so you know that goes where, take the old board out-held by 2 screws- and then just plug everything back in.

Were these instructions helpful? 
 

Difficulty

Est. Repair Time

1 to 2 hrs

Tools Needed

Screwdriver, Socket Set

1     0

PCB Circuit Board Went Bad

Written on 4/18/2019 by Guest

Took pictures of existing installation.
Disconnected and removed existing circuit board.
Installed new circuit board.
Reconnected existing wiring.

Were these instructions helpful? 
 

Difficulty

Est. Repair Time

Less than 1 hr

Tools Needed

Installation done by certified Pool Service Co.

2     0

Main Board went bad

Written on 11/1/2017 by Guest

After inspection by my Pool Service, it was determined that the clock on my Goldline/Hayward main board was going bad. Put up with inconvenience for several weeks until the clock totally went and the overfill would not go on as timed.

Were these instructions helpful? 
 

Difficulty

Est. Repair Time

1 to 2 hrs

Tools Needed

Nut Drivers, Needle-nose pliers

3     0

Goldline PS-8 controller timer malfunctioned

Written on 6/13/2017 by Guest

1. Opened panel door.
2. Documented every part of every section of every level of the entire controller program for later use.
3. Turned off all power breakers.
4. Unplugged salt cell.
5. Removed panel faceplate.
6. Confirmed "no power" with voltmeter.
7. Removed display unit from nylon mounting posts, and disconnected it from the Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB).
8. Took multiple pictures of existing wiring to the main PCB.
9. Disconnected all wiring plugs from the main PCB.
10. Backed out two hex-head screws from lower section of Main PCB approx 1/2".
11. Raised Main PCB up and out of keyhole mounting slots, to remove the board.
12. Removed existing rectifier wires.
13. Installed replacement Main PCB.
14. Re-connected all wiring plugs to Main PCB and newly supplied rectifier wires to rectifiers.
15. Plugged salt cell connector in.
16. Closed power main circuit breaker to power-up the control unit.
17. Re-programmed the replacement Main PCB using documentation taken noted in step 1. (Note: Best to program the "CONFIGURATION" section first, so that all functions (devices) will appear when programming the other sections).
18. After being satisfied with operation, turned power circuit breaker off.
19. Re-installed panel faceplate.
20. Re-inserted the salt-cell plug into it's socket.
21. Turned all circuit breakers back on.
22. Again programmed correct day & current time.
23. System now successfully back in operation. WooHoo!

24. NOTE - My final comment:
It feels truly unfair that this board, costing many hundreds of dollars, had to be replaced because of the failure of a (maybe) $2.00 timer on the board or in an IC chip. All other board functions were still working.

Were these instructions helpful? 
 

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