how to replace a jandy diverter valve

Poolside Chat Episode #40: Replacing A Jandy Diverter

6 thoughts on “Poolside Chat Episode #40: Replacing A Jandy Diverter

  1. i have a question. My pool system has 3 jandy valves. Labels either weren’t done or have since fallen off. There are 3 jandy’s. In the effort to more accurately control water flow direction, I’m considering cutting out the jandys and gluing in ball valves. So, 3 jandys would mean at least 4 ball valves if not 6.
    I believe… the intakes are skimmer, spa floor, and pool floor. Outflows are spa, booster/pool in one. Jandy locations are: (1) Front/intake of pump connecting pool drain and spa drain (2) back of pump connecting skimmer post filter with pool and spa floor drains immediately after pump. (3) after main filter (large egg-shaped) separating outflow into 2 directions that I believe are spa on 1 and pool/booster on the other. However, it is possible the spa’s water is split with booster water as well.
    Here’s the issue. I can’t hardly adjust these valves without draining the spa. Additionally, any adjustments causes the booster supply (with polaris crawler vacuum) to not have enough power, getting it stuck on steps, etc.
    After making a relatively crude drawing, I’m thinking 5 ball valves. To assist with explanation i’m writing them out in 2 phases: pre-filter housing (intakes/discharges) and post filter housing (outflows/supply)
    first phase:
    1-pre-pump pool floor intake
    2-pre-pump spa floor intake
    3-post skimmer filter, but before pump discharge joins the skimmer’s discharge and obviously before filter housing (so after the pressure gauge)
    second phase (after water is filtered, leaving the filter housing):
    4-after PVC wye, cut in solely for spa supply (which may have the booster pump too)
    5-after PVC wye, cut in solely for pool supply (which may have the booster pump too)
    Finally, here’s my questions:
    1. Do you see any concerns with doing this?
    2. What are some problems that I need to be careful about?
    3. What is the best material to use?
    Thank you for your time. If needed I can send pictures.

    1. I know this is an old post but I’m going to reply in case it helps someone. Basically this is really Bad idea. Ball valves reduce the flow quote significantly whereas Jandy valves do not. Jandy valves can be maintained, and the parts replaced if they fail without cutting the pipes etc, ball valves cannot. Ball valves are well known for becoming stuck and jammed over time, jandy valves do not. The handles often break over time on ball valves, jandy valves do not and if they did, the handle can be replaced.

      I sound like an advertisement for jandy valves!
      Just avoid the ball valves in pool plumbing.
      I considered them until I did some research.

  2. Hello,
    Is it possible that a bent diverter is the cause of my lack of suction from the skimmer line? Also, I noticed that your diverter set right in and the cap was flush before setting screws is there a reason that mine wouldn’t set “right” did i loose a piece to the puzzle?

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