Aquarite 900 Displays incorrect Salt reading

When starting up pool this season display showed salt at 1200. Brought salt level to 3400, but display is still showing low salt. Anywhere from 600 - 1700. Had water tested and the actual salt level is 3400. Tried recalibrating a few times. Worked for that cycle, but when pump started next day it back to a low reading and not generating chlorine.

From forums it appeared a bad cell was the problem, but have installed a new cell and the problem persists. Any help would be appreciated.

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I have the same exact problem.  The cell is generating chlorine as confirmed by the pool store, but I have to reset it every morning.  Getting old.

Just replaced the pcb, salt cell and flow switch.  Still the same issue.  Won’t hold the setting the next morning.

I also have an issue with wrong salt readings with Aqua Rite, I am using a T-15 cell, and it has the Check Salt and the Inspect Cell lights both flashing.

The reading is about 2600, on the display and when I press the diagnostic bottom 5 times to adjust the reading is -0.

I have also a TDS/EC COM-80 that I use to do my home testing, the reading on it is 3265 ppm.

To make sure everything is OK after those confusing readings, I took a water sample to the local pools supply to test, and the result was the condition of the water was ok, only the C Acid a bit low at 40; and to my surprise the salt was high, 3600 ppm, now the light of High Salt never went ON, on the panel.

Now before a replace some water I would like why the readings are so different s, is the the unit defective?

Forgot to add, that the cell was tested about a month ago, it was OK, and was cleaned 10 days ago.

I ll appreciate any help I can get to solve this issue.

Thanks

I had the same issue. I replaced everything!  Still got a low reading.  Called the Hayward rep, He told me to let it “learn the reading”.  So the first day began at 1700.  I did not reset anything (like I had been doing).  It went up to 2400.  The next day it held 2400 overnight and climbed to 2800. Finally the lights went out. By the third day it went to 3400 which is what the water tested at.  All along, even at 1700 and the system saying it wasn’t generating I still had a good chlorine reading.  All is well now. I Had To Let it LEARN the reads on its own.  So happy.  Hope this works for you.

Thanks for your comment sharing information, this is very complex, now it’s reading 2700 but the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights are like on a Christmas Tree, and if I try set the salt with the diagnostic it reads -0.

I know that something is wrong because my salt tester reads 3245 ppm today and the pool supply test got 3600 ppm, but the High Salt light never goes on, so who’s right? and they told me that high salt may damage the cell, that by the way is only 2 years old.

I am afraid that if I drain some water to lower the salt will not do any good to solve my readings problem

Thanks for your comment sharing information, this is very complex, now it’s reading 2700 but the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights are like on a Christmas Tree, and if I try set the salt with the diagnostic it reads -0.

I know that something is wrong because my salt tester reads 3245 ppm today and the pool supply test got 3600 ppm, but the High Salt light never goes on, so who’s right? and they told me that high salt may damage the cell, that by the way is only 2 years old.

I am afraid that if I drain some water to lower the salt will not do any good to solve my readings problem

PS: a friend of mine that had the same system with lots of issues when decided to replace it with a Pentair, kept the parts, and I replaced the digital display, well now I have a reading of 2900 no Check Salt and Inspect Cell flashing, but the display keeps rotating over all the reading keeps moving, very sad to think that the solution will be Pentair