phosphates 3000

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smallpool posted this 3 weeks ago

okay for all i've read about phoshpates is not a big deal, i'm beginning to accept that my reading of 3,000 is too high and its just negating any shock i'm adding to the pool..   in one day my FCL goes from 4 (after shock) back down to 0.15

a year ago i used the Phoshfree, but admittedly didnt clean the filter after i was hoping for the best.  when closed my pool last fall i cleaned the filters and was hoping this year phoshpates would be better.  Its not.    i've learned so much about pool chemistry and "flashpoints" with chlorine this season.   my last frontier now is gonig to be tackling this phoshpates issue.   So really i gotta clean the filter. then add the Phosfree then clean the filter AGAIN after it runs?

I've tried everything else to hold the FCL, got the CYA up got the PH in zone..    my water is always crystal clear i just cant keep the FCL up..   after the shock wears off the CCL goes up (i can smell it).. i learned how to take care of that.   i have a 10,000 pool, SWG, vinyl liner..   any tips on how to properly apply the Phosfree?    I feel like this my final frontier to learn.   thank you.!

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JCMC70 posted this 3 weeks ago

Hello again,

Phosphates aren't a concern if you keep enough chlorine in the water. From what I can gather from your 2 posts I don't think you are chlorinating your water to the proper level.

What % do you have the SWG set at?

How long does the pump run per day?

And how much chlorine does that add to the water daily?

Can you provided a current set of test reading and are you testing the water yourself? If you are testing yourself, what are you using? If you aren't testing yourself, how is the water being tested?

j

smallpool posted this 3 weeks ago

70% SWG dial, runs 11 hours a day.  the satl cell is 2 months old.. i replaced it thinking it wasnt working.    i dont know much it adds daily how do i learn that?

i have my own WaterLink spin touch at my house.  yes i bought one two years ago.

one week ago reading:  FCL, 0.18, TCL 0.34, CCL 0.16.  PH 7.7  ALK 108.  HARD 273.. CYA 81.  Copper 0.0  Iron 0.0  Phos: 3,248  SALT 3248.

i added 4 lbs of Di Chlor and it became: FCL 15.3  TCL 17.1 CCL 1.81 PH 6.7 ALK 77 HARD 238  CYA 127  Phos 3145  salt 2770

this was the first time i added Di Chlor because in my research i heard it was bad for vinyl.  what i didnt know is that it jacks up my CYA.  okay lesson learned

today just now i am back to FCL 0.5, TCL 0.9, CCL 0.36  PH 7.0 ALK 84 HARD 250 CYA 138 Phos 3220  Salt 3166

its just blowing my mind that i can go from 15 FCL to almost zero so fast..  so my last ditch was its the phosphates.

I know i just dug a bigger hole for myself with the CYA now elevated..  but i was just so desperate to get the FCL up.  thank you for your advice.   FWIW my pool is always crystal clear.  no algae anywhere.  everybody thinks my pool is perfect (except for me).

 

 

 

JCMC70 posted this 3 weeks ago

"70% SWG dial, runs 11 hours a day.  the satl cell is 2 months old.. i replaced it thinking it wasnt working.    i dont know much it adds daily how do i learn that?"

The documentation with the SWG should include a chart that shows how much chlorine is produced @ a X% dial setting for X hours of runtime.

"this was the first time i added Di Chlor because in my research i heard it was bad for vinyl.  what i didnt know is that it jacks up my CYA."

 I told you in one of my posts in your other topic what adding that much Di-chlor would do to the CYA level.

Unfortunately, the CYA level in your water has reached an untenable point. A CYA level of 130 ppm requires a chlorine level of 14 ppm be maintained just to sanitize the water. I don't think Maintaining a 14 ppm chlorine level is something that any SWG is designed to do. So the maximum chlorine that the SWG could generate would need to be supplemented by another type of chlorine. As you have learned, that is expensive. And in my opinion it's unsafe to keep chlorine levels that high.

You are going to have to get the CYA level down to an acceptable range before you will be able to properly balance the water. And then you should be able to see how much chlorine your SWG produces daily(if the documentation doesn't tell you). The documentation for the SWG may tell you what they recommend for the CYA level for their generator. If the documentation doesn't give that information, most/all pool water experts recommend a CYA level for SWGs of 60 - 80 ppm.

There are only 2 ways that I know of to lower CYA levels :

1. Drain water from the pool and replace it with fresh water. This is the method most used.

2. Find someone who can perform a reverse osmosis process. My understanding is that this process is very expensive.

If you decide to drain and replace water, I would start with 1/3 of the pool volume or about 3,500 gallons. Then get a CYA reading. If it is within the 60 - 80 ppm range, you are good. If it's still above 80 ppm continue to drain water at about 500 gallons and take another CYA reading.

After you have gotten the CYA level in line, if you still need help come back with fresh test readings and let us know.

j

smallpool posted this 3 weeks ago

Thank you!   yes, you told me about the Di Chlor CYA thing but it was too late..  i had done it already..  :-(   

i will report back when CYA is lower.   thank you..

 

smallpool posted this 3 weeks ago

While i am here.. do you have any links to posts on draining water?  all think about is that i would lower the water level and then my pool would cave in..

 

smallpool posted this 3 weeks ago

i have a Haward T Cell 3 and an Aquarite module.. i'm on the hayward website and i'm in the manual i cannot find how much chlorine it generates for given run time..

JCMC70 posted this 3 weeks ago

Ok. So it must be an above ground pool.

You have at least a couple of options.

1. Drain water from the pool as you put water in the pool. To do this you will need a small sump pump or a pool cover pump for above ground pools. Lower the cover pump or the suction line to the small sump pump into the pool to a level not more than about 3 feet below the top of the pool. Attach a water hose to the cover pump or the drain connection on the sump pump and run it to wherever you want to drain the water. Next put a water hose connected to a spigot into the pool at the current waterline.Turn the spigot on and turn the pump on. The lower water with CYA in it will be pumped out and the fresh water will be added to the top of the waterline.

2. Drain an amount of water that you are comfortable won't collapse the walls and then refill the water and repeat until the CYA level reaches the desired point.

j

smallpool posted this 3 weeks ago

i'm so sorry JCM70..  its not an above ground pool..  its in groun pool.  i have 2 skimmers and one "dual drain" at the bottom of the deep end..    when i said "cave in" i mean more like the bottom and sides popping up..

 

JCMC70 posted this 3 weeks ago

I'm sorry. That's my bad. There isn't any reason that I can think of why you shouldn't be able to drain 1/3 of the water from an in ground pool. I drain about 1/3 of the water from my pool every fall.

Your should be able to drain the water using the pool's pump. I don't know what type of filter you have, but it should have a multi port valve. Just set the valve to Drain or Waste and turn the pump on.

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