Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.
This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.
Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON
The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:
- The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.
How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED
- Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.
The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:
- Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.
The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:
- The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.
Possible Remedies
Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.
How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size
- Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
- Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
- Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.
Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.
If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.
If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.
How To Add Salt To Your Pool
Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)
Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?
If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.
If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.
How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell
Step 4: Reset the average salt level.
Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)
How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level
- To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
- After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
- Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.
Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.
If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).
If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.
High Salt LED ON
The High Salt LED stays on when:
- The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
- You have too much salt in your pool.
- The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.
Possible Remedies
Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.
How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size
- Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
- Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
- Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.
Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.
If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.
If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.
How To Lower Your Salt Levels
Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)
Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?
If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.
If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.
How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell
Step 4: Reset the average salt level.
Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)
How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level
- To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
- After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
- Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.
If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.
No Flow LED Flashing or ON
The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.
- If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
- Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
- Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
- There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.
Possible Remedies
Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.
Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.
Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.
Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.
Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.
The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.
- Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
- The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
- Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
- Check for damaged or cut wires
Possible Remedies
Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.
Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.
Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.
Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.
Step 5: Replace your switch.
Low or High Cell Temperature
The LCD display reads COLD when:
- Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)
The LCD display reads HOT when:
- Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.
* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *
Other Common Problems and Solutions
Power LED Not On
- Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
- Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
- If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
- The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
‘Generating’ LED Flashing
- The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
- Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.
Hi Matt, I’ve read a years worth of owner comments and your responses. What I have determined is that it is nearly impossible to manage all the variables (cell function, PCB function, salt levels) and come up with a correct diagnosis of a problem from where you are sitting. The diagnostic flow charts are helpful but far from perfect.
The one repeated complaint I see in this blog and elsewhere on the web and without a solution being provided is the complaint of a declining instant salt reading over time when tested pool salt levels are in range . That then results in (1) the salt cell shuts down at some point during a filtration cycle due to a low salt reading or (2) on restart of the pump/filtration cycle, the salt cell fails to restart because the last instant salt reading was out of the specified range for operation.
Bottom line and still an unanswered question: why does the instant salt level reading decline during a filtration cycle when (1) the pool salt level is in range, (2) the salt cell is clean, working correctly and not aged out, (3) diagnostics indicate there are no problems with the PCB itself (hardware).
Noteworthy in this discussion is that, with my system experiencing this problem of declining salt levels during a filtration cycle, by sliding the power switch to off then back to auto or super chlorinate, the system seeks a new instant salt level that is close to what your pool water test says it was. Then, the salt cell starts generating again and the cycle repeats itself, i.e., the instant salt level gradually declines forcing a halt to salt generation due to a low salt level that is presumably incorrectly determined by the system.
The one thing I’ve not seen discussed anywhere is the potential for the PCBs to be improperly programmed at the factory level, i.e., the sampling sequence produces errors and in this case low salt readings. All other system components found to be within specifications (cell, pool chemistry, PCB) would lead one to believe a global software issue with certain PCBs coming out of certain facilities may be the underlying problem. I say “certain” PCBs because not every PCB demonstrates this behavior. It’s a quality control issue perhaps.
One other thought: The way the system determines instant salt and by extension the memorized or average salt level is through a pre-programmed sampling sequence. Whenever you change the cell or correct pool salt levels by adding salt or diluting the pool a small change in salt concentration (PPMs) disrupts the accuracy of the programmed sampling cycle. It appears that it takes a while for the system to find a stable instant salt reading. A solution to the declining salt level problem that then shuts down the salt cell may be to leave your pool pump on for maybe 72 hours to allow multiple sampling cycles to occur without interruption. The one problem with this solution is that (1) if the PCB is programmed to shut off salt generation when the memorized or average salt level drops below spec or (2) It uses the instant salt reading to determine shut down parameters and this resets at every new filtration cycle, my proposed solution won’t help and we’re back to PCB programming issues that need to be addressed. Interested in hearing your take on this post.
Any response to this comment? I’ve read most of this thread.
I am getting a low salt reading. Multiple tests at pool store tell me I’m at 3500. Cell is a T15 and cell test at pool store is good.
I can get an instant salt reading high enough to get the generator to work but it will shut down and tell me low salt.
I’ve replaced the circuit board, to no avail.
I’m ready to throw the whole system out. What else can I do?
same here, did you find a way to fix the problem I’m having same issue reading says 1600 so low salt light blinks and check cell light blinks. took the strips and my salt is at 4000 now because i kept adding salt.
no flow light is on pump is running ok
And have you done any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide?
Hi, and thanks for such a nice guide… Although it has not solved my problem, it gave me a few ideas of what to look for. I’ll post the problem here, just in case there are some quick suggestions about what might be wrong with my system.
Here are the symptoms:
(1) Only the Power LED is on, Generating does not come on; Superchlorinating does not come on even when switched on, and no other LEDs ever come on, no error messages
(2) the Output switch is set to 100%
(3) The cell has been tested at a shop, it works fine,
(4) The pool chemistry is good, salt is at 2900ppm (tested at Leslie’s), temp at 62F… After I did all water chemistry steps, and finally added 400 lbs of salt, I’ve been running the pump for about 14 hrs straight
(5) Diagnostics works, it always shows zero for average and instant salinity, c. 33V for Cell Voltage, zero amps; cell type is t-15, correct.
I did the circuit board troubleshooting as per Hayward guide, all voltages seem ok and correct, the fuse has continuity…
I never hear any clicks for the relay switch when I turn the unit on, as mentioned somewhere in the guide, but then again the pump is loud, and I don’t really know how loud should that click be…
any suggestions?
My Hayward Aquarite unit (T-15) is producing no chlorine – I just took the salt cell to a testing place and they said it was working ‘like new’. All indicators are working as normal and all metrics within acceptable range. Couple of things are unusual (1) the control unit is producing a lot of heat – the box is almost too hot to touch (2) the salt reading is 3700 and tested 4100.
Any advice? Thanks
Just going through the things we mention in the article. You could try recalibrating the salt level, cleaning the cell, or try some of the other things mentioned at the bottom of the article, depending on the light alerts your box is providing.
My system comes on and shows a HIGH reading, not generating. If I move the switch to off then back on it displays a salt reading (2700) and the generating light is on. Pool is starting to turn green. Any ideas as to what is causing this problem?
First, get your water tested to figure out what your actual water salinity level. Adjust salt level as needed. Second, clean the cell. The cell may be malfunctioning because the sensors and plates are caked with scale. Third, if the first two things don’t work, use the diagnostics mentioned throughout this article.
Matthew, earlier this summer I was going nuts because I had the right amount of salt but no chlorine was being generated. After finding this blog I figured out that my T-9 cell system was set to T-5 on the panel. I reset it to T-9 and was getting chlorine the rest of the summer. Over the past week our pool has turned green and when I checked the FC it was down to 0. Checked the panel again and it was set to T-5. No one has touched it. No clue why it is changing it’s settings on its own. Any suggestions on this?
Not sure, why it may have reset. Maybe there was a power outage that caused a change, or someone accidentally adjusted the wrong setting. I’d just keep an eye on it, so when you see water quality slipping, you can act quicker next time.
Thanks Matthew. Appreciate the input. Is this something i can do or should I have a professional install?
Take a look at this how-to guide, you can determine if it is something you can handle: How to Replace an Aqua Rite Display PCB
My aqua rite chlorine output knob is not working correctly. When setting it to 30 it reads on the display 80. Not sure how to reset/calibrate this. Would appreciate any insight.
Thanks!
That is a symptom of a bad display board and is not something that can be calibrated away. You will need either the PureLine AquaRite Replacement Display PCB Board or the OEM option GLX-PCB-DSP
All my lights are green but it doesnt appear to be making any chlorine. What gives?
How do you know it is isn’t making chlorine?
Same problem. Lights are green, both if set to % or set to superchlorinate (appropriate lights with each setting. Amps and volts are good. Salt level says 3300 but test strip says 2800. Put in new cell a week ago and things chlorine was coming out. Now…nothing. I have a hose bib after the cell and test water before it gets to the pool.
Is there a way to see if the cell just stopped working?
The bucket test is pretty simple. Get a 5-gallon bucket, fill it with pool water, then submerge the cell in the water. Next, turn on the SCG and set the output to 100% to make sure it is on and not oscillating between on/off. If the cell is making chlorine, there should bubbles floating out the cell which is a byproduct of the cell creating chlorine.
Hi Matthew,
My system stopped working yesterday. When I entered the pool shed there was a weird smell, as if a transistor or something had burned out. The inside of the box looked fine however and the logic board still seems to work correctly. It’s not the T-15 cell either as I’ve tried a different one (on loan, guaranteed working) with the same result.
What happens is that it takes about 3 minutes for the power led to come on. Then when you set it to auto or super chlorinate, after about 8 seconds you hear the familiar click of the logic board turning the cell. 7 seconds later another click and both lights turn off again.
It turns out it takes a couple minutes for the voltage to the cell to build back up which crashes back down as soon as the cell turns on.
The board gives me this diagnostic info:
Salinity: 2.90
Temp: 27 (celcius)
Voltage: slowly builds to 17.4 (when set to off) takes about 3 minutes before power led turns on.
The voltage crashes down to less than 1.0 quickly after the cell turns on.
Amperage: Initially shoots up to 0.7 when cell turns on, then immediately crashes back down to 0.00
Desired output: 69p (while knob is at 60, close enough)
Instant Salinity: -0.00 Quickly goes to -1.40 then right back to -0.00 when cell turns on.
Product name: AL – 0
Software revision: r 1.40
No cell type info but hasn’t changed since installation.
Goldline controls
PN: G1-066012C-1
Rev: C
115v input
24v over the two yellow wires
Which component is at fault, the board or the transformer or something replaceable on the board? The cell tries to draw power but the box can’t deliver and shuts back off.
Hi Matthew –
Nevermind, …
“Aqua Rite chlorine generators operating with software version 1.50 or later are designed to use one of 3 different chlorinator cells that are available from your authorized Hayward dealer.”
Great info and many thanks. You are correct – no place is the troubleshooting info consolidated.
I have an Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator that does not have some of the features you highlight. For example, I am unable to reset the cell type. I never see the “T-xx”. Another things is that I am unable to display the voltage and current.
Could this be because our firmware is version r1.10?
A little history is that this system came with the home we bought but was not in use. No salt in the pool. They had a service that managed the chlorine. I have replaced the cell with a GLX-CELL3-W ( we have an ~16000 gal. pool ). We check the water and all Parameters are in line except no chlorine. Any thoughts?
Thank you in advance.
Hey Matthew – when I perform the following:
1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display
…
I never see “t-xx” or “t-15”, “t-3”, etc. …
Your thoughts?
did anybody give an answer to this? Mine does same
my customer says the system does not read the salt level correctly. the reading he does get slowly drops as the day goes on. the the system shuts off. when he disconnects the cell from the controller he doesn’t get a “NO CELL” reading. is it the cell or the PC board?
From that scant description, I cannot tell what the cause is. But have you or the customer checked the cell voltage, amps and completed any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the article? That could go a long way in determining what the issue is.
My power led will not come on and it won’t generate. When I reset the breaker it flashes no flow for about 60 seconds and then the generate led lights up fo about 10 seconds the off. The display works fine. My water has no chlorine, so it’s not generating. I checked the fuse, it’s good.
8 yr old pool, and I’m on my second cell.
Going by your description and the troubleshooting steps we list in the guide about this very situation, I think you need a new AquaRite Main PCB – GLX-PCB-RITE
Hi, TCell 15 and everyday I have to recalibrate the salt level for it to produce chlorine. Any ideas?
I hate to keep asking this same question to everybody; but, did you check that the correct cell is selected on the panel? Have you cleaned the cell? How old is the cell?
My aqua-rite generator have blank display screen with the power light on but no other lights…can someone advise on the potential cause. It worked till yesterday.
If the cell is still creating chlorine then it is likely a display board issue, if it is not creating chlorine then the main board is the issue.
Hello.
Aqua Rite unit with the T-15 cell.
My temperature reads about 50 degrees hotter than actual water temp and I can’t figure out why. I installed the cell new last fall. I have inspected the cell for buildup and it is clear.
Any ideas?
Is it possible that my VS pump is heating up the water enough to cause this reading? The pipes coming into the cell don’t feel warm to the touch.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Matt. I have an Aqua Plus system. The problem I’m having is my super chlorinate works fine when I test it but when I test it on just chlorinate at 60% I get nothing. If I super chlorinate my pool tests ok for chlorine. If I just leave it on chlorinate, in a day or so I have no chlorine in my pool. I put a dummie on and when I put the chlorinater in a bucket of water it generates on super chlorinate but not chlorinate. Any idea what is going on?
The power light does not come on. I reset the circuit breaker and the “generating” light came on for 5 seconds and then went out. The power light never came back on. I even bought an entire new circuit board and this made no difference. Could it be the transformer? Can those be purchased? How do I test it?
Hello- our system is less than a year old and works great. About a week ago our Power LED and no flow light stay on when the system should be “off”. It also shows all readings when it should be off. The system is still generating and gives correct readings. It seems as there is no way to shut it off. Any suggestions?
It sounds like you have the system wired in a way that never shuts off power to the panel even if the motor pump is turned off. You could either re-wire it or since it is working fine keep it the way it is.
Hi,
Installed new Aqua Plus in September, T-15 cell. Was working just great last fall.
This year, after opening… it’s not generating enough chlorine. I have some very little amount of it, small fraction from what it suppose to be.
– salt was checked and added, shows 3200 or 3300
– Actual cell was checked, was perfectly clean
– ~26 volts and ~5.4 Amp
– configured for T-15 cell
– temperature 60F
Main concern, that it’s generating something…by filling about 20% from the original.
So much appreciated for any suggestions
At the moment…Chlorine stabilizer was added and it started to work much better…
Didn’t know that even under solar cover that thing matters so much
Is there anyone still there who is replying to comments and replies any more?????
Thank You!
I have an Aquarite/Goldline chlorinator and t-15 salt cell (r-1.4) for fourteen years. It’s installed on 21,000 gallon liner pool, so I expected the salt cell to exceed the 5 year limit, but can’t believe we were able to get an additional 9 years. Eight years ago I had to replace the currrent limiter on the PC board, but I initially thought I had to replace the salt cell and ordered a Compupool GRC40GH, which is suppose to be a direct replacement. I never replaced the the salt cell and I have stored the Compupool GRC40GH salt cell in my garage for nine years. I have replaced the current limiter two more times on the PC board and have had no issues with the SWG system from Aquarite/Goldline, until this year when the generator stopped generating and the salinity output reading levels started to drop significantly. I replace the salt cell and recalibrated the salinity reading and hit 3200ppm, which was just measured at the pool store. Everything appeared to be working fine and the the salinity numbers started to measure 4000ppm and 1000ppm over the next few days. I kept recalibrating the system, but the salinity now reads 3800ppm, which is too high and now the NO FLOW LED does not illuminate and flash for the first 10 to 30 seconds before the GENERATION LED illuminates. During AUTO start-up we have the GENERATION LED illuminated immediately. I can here the relay energize on the PC board, which I assume is actually sending power to the salt cell to generate chlorine. Is it possible for the flow meter/relay to fail in a closed state? Is it a compatibility issue with the new salt cell? Is the software corrupted on a EEPROM/microprocessor? if it is; is the software on the main PC board or is on the smaller LED PC board. I going to disconnect the flow switch tomorrow and read the voltage and current outputs no closely. It appears after I recalibrate the system that we are generating chlorine at the salt cell, as I do see some small bubbles through the site glass area, however I’m not seeing an increase in chlorine levels, like I should, after two full days running around the clock. Any suggestions in troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thank You
Why won’t my Hayward Swim-Pure Plus hold the “salt display” reading. All the other readings seem to be within range and hold, but the salt reading drops down and goes into shut off mode.
here are the readings I have:
1. 85 water temp
2. 25.2 cell voltage
3. 4.08 cell current-amps
4. 51% output
5. 3000 Instant Salinity (this continually drops down to shut off mode)
Everything seems correct except the salinity drops until it hits shutdown zone. It usually takes about a day
for it to get there (maybe 2 days), but then I have to reset it to up around 3000. Readings from pool store are always at mid to high 3000’s when I take water there weekly.
Have you cleaned the cell since this problem has started?
Yes, and it looks clean with no buildup apparent from either end. I HAVE NOT, however, ever cleaned it using a partial acid solution because every time that I have cleaned it using a hose there was never an obvious buildup that was visible.
I replied about 4 days ago, but have not received a response………..
Hello all. I have a Hayward T-15 system. I replaced the cell 2 or 3 years ago, and the board 2 years ago. I have proper salt, the cell generates chlorine, BUT the “Desired output %” will not increase over 18 no matter how I spin the dial. It will DECREASE, but will not increase over 18. I can switch to Super Chlorinate the display reads 100. Any suggestions on what is going on? Thanks!
The knob mechanism may be faulty. As I see it there are two solutions: replace the knob piece of the display board or replace the whole display board. Those small gadgets pieces are available at local or online electronic parts stores. If you want to replace the whole board there you have the Hayward PCB or the aftermarket Pureline PCB
Thank you sir. I greatly appreciate the insight.
One further question, do you all sell the knob? If so, do you have a part #?
We do not, Hayward doesn’t list a part number for it.
Thank you sir.