How To Know When a Salt Cell is Bad - General

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This guide will show different ways to determine if your salt chlorine generator (SCG) cell is damaged and/or needs replacing. An SCG cell can be expected to last 5 or more years if the pool and equipment are maintained properly. This guide outlines the general steps that should work for most models, but you should also reference your owner’s manual for more model-specific troubleshooting instructions.

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Step by Step

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Step 1

Balanced Water Chemistry - To maximize the life of your salt cell, you’ll need to maintain proper water chemistry. The critical components of healthy water chemistry are  Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity (TA,) Cyanuric Acid (CYA or Stabilizer,) Calcium Hardness (CH,) and Salt. The image on this step provides the ideal ranges these categories should be maintained within.

For example, suppose your pool is high in calcium. In that case, the salt cell will become caked with scale (calcium buildup, which restricts flow over the plates and prevents the electrolysis chemical reaction from happening. Water with too high of pH or alkalinity will also lead to excess scale buildup and staining to the pool surface. And low CYA levels lead to rapid chlorine burn-off because there isn’t enough “stabilizer”  to protect chlorine from UV rays hence why cyanuric acid is commonly referred to as sunblock for your pool.

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Step 2

Inspect Cell LED or Fault Code - The inspect cell alert is not always a sign your cell is dead, but it is a tip-off that you need to clean the cell, or the water chemistry requires attention.

On some salt chlorinator models, like the Hayward AquaRite, the Inspect Cell flashes after every 500 hundred run hours. This timed reminder is more of a fail-safe built-in by the manufacturer to ensure the cell is maintained at regular intervals, even if the cell doesn’t have build-up concerns.

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Step 3

Check that Output % is Set Correctly - Make sure the output percentage is set to its usual position. For Hayward salt systems, you’ll need to ensure the output toggle is set o to AUTO.

This step seems obvious, but there have been many hours wasted on troubleshooting, that could have been solved with a simple turn of a knob.

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Step 4

Adjust Output to Account for Bather Load and Water Temps - Warm water and high bather loads significantly increase your pool water’s chlorine demand. Try increasing the output by 20 to 30 percentage points to counteract the higher demand.

If you notice repeated cell/chlorine issues after rain, you may want to adjust your usual chlorine output to counteract. Remember, rainwater is untreated freshwater, and any runoff from your pool deck brings any dirt in with it. The increase in fresh water and dirt will drop your chlorine quickly.

Step 5

Check Salt Level - Most salt chlorine generators will shut down the cell's salt levels are outside the prescribed range. For example, the Pentair Intellchlor’s operational salinity range is 3000 - 4200 ppm (ideal 3400 ppm.). If the salt level is outside of this range, the CHECK SALT light will flash, and the cell will shut down until correct.

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Step 6

Check Pool Water Temps - Salt cells are temperature sensitive. Most are programmed to halt chlorine production and shut down if the temperature is lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The actual shutdown temperature level varies based on the salt system model.

Chlorine demand is extremely low in temps below 50 degrees; algae cannot grow in water that cold. So, if you need to introduce chlorine to the water, manually shock the pool. 

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Step 7

Check Water Flow Strength - A “NO FLOW” or “LOW FLOW” alert is usually caused by a dirty filter or skimmer baskets, but more serious causes can be a blockage in the plumbing line.

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Step 8

Check Cable Connections - Check all wire connections from the control panel to the cell, flow switch, and power source. Ensure these connections are tight and secure. 

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Step 9

Check Cell Plates for Scale or Corrosion - Your cell’s plates for the white metallic calcium buildup called scale. This build-up naturally occurs in the cell over time, even in well-balanced pools, but its growth rate increases in imbalanced water. 

After cleaning the Cell, look for loose, broken, or displaced plates. The scale may obstruct your view, so take this time to inspect the plates. If the plates are damaged, the best solution is the replace the salt cell.

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Step 10

Check the Cell’s Polarities - Some salt systems can reverse the current polarity of the cell; it is sometimes called the “self-clean” feature. Reversing the cell’s polarity helps loosen h the scale has with the plates. The loosening of that bond, coupled with the flushing flow of water from your pool pump, clears the scale build-up.

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Comments

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(41 to 80 of 152)

 Posted: 11/11/2020 

No none of the lights are on
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/12/2020 

You will need to replace your AquaTrol's main PCB. Do you have the RJ or HP model?
 Reply

 Posted: 11/9/2020 

No, the "no flow" light comes on and cycles off. The generating light never comes on any more. if I switch to Super Chlorinate it and the power light come on for maybe 15-20 seconds then both go out.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/16/2020 

Have you tried cleaning your filter or replacing the flow sensor?
 Reply

 Posted: 11/4/2020 

My board is saying "cell temp sensor short circuit" and "chlorinator off sensor fault." Do I have to replace the cell, or can I replace the sensor, and where is the sensor?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/4/2020 

What is the model number or the make and model of your salt system? We need the model info to figure out what kind of diagnostic process to follow.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/5/2020 

And I have T15 Simple Cell from Optimum Pool Technologies. I believe the sensor is inaccessible in the cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/5/2020 

I have a Hayward Aqua Logic. The only model number I could find is AQL-XX-XX.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/10/2020 

The part you need is the Goldline / AquaLogic Temperature Sensor Kit w/ 15ft Leads - GLXPC12KIT; it is replaceable. You should be able to follow the sensor cord from the control box to where the sensor is installed.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/12/2020 

Will the cell have current if salt levels are low ? I have voltage but no amps but it is disabled for low salt.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/19/2020 

If you know you have low salt, use a salt test kit or have it tested at a pool store, then add the salt if needed. Your low salt light being on could be a symptom of other problems.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/27/2020 

Hi, i have this Hayward salt display for 4 yrs. now. I cant keep the salt ppm up for some reason. I added salt a few days ago and it stated 3100 ppm. A week later its showing 2700ppm. What could be wrong?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/27/2020 

Have you been backwashing more than usual, or has there been heavy rain recently?
 Reply

 Posted: 9/7/2020 

We have a Hayward Aquarite - replaced the front board bc it was poor display. Cell is clean. It won’t show any lights except the power light. It won’t trigger generate or super chlorinate. Display shows 0.00/28/32.2/0.00/16P/-0.00/AL-1/R1.59/t-5. I can change the t-cell to a t15 on the display. Can someone tell me if the problem is the main board or the T cell? It won’t let me recalibrate salt level. It doesn’t recognize even that there is no flow.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/8/2020 

If I am reading the jumble of numbers correctly, 32.2 is the cell voltage, and 0.00 is the amperage. Am I correct?What cell do you have, the TCELL5 or the TCELL15? And you need to make sure whichever cell you have is selected in the settings menu. If the correct cell is not chosen, switch it to the proper cell, then give me the cell voltage and cell amperage.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/13/2020 

We have a T15 Cell. Those are the numbers with the correct cell inputted. There is zero amperage, you are correct
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/23/2020 

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/4/2020 

Hope That you at least give me a clue. Have a Pentair IntelliChlor IC20 and is not lighting at all. I gave it a clean with the right Acid proportion but notice the fuse was blown. I replace the fuse again and it blow on more time. What would be the issue or solution. This Unit is 8n years old.. If I where to replace it bdo I have to replace the unit on the wall also. or just the Intell. Please advise me. Yhank You So Much.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/8/2020 

The first place I would check is the circuit providing power to the power supply. That fuse is popping because there is too much current at the panel. Have you checked the voltage and amp of the lines feeding the Intellichlor's power supply?
 Reply

 Posted: 9/1/2020 

I have a swim pure plus that is acting strange. The only light that is on is the power light, continuously, and the salt reading is stuck at 3200. It will not do anything else. No diagnostics, just 3200. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thank you
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/3/2020 

I suspect the main PCB is not working. You can try to check the internal fuse on the unit, to see if that has popped. But more than likely your main PCB needs to be replaced.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/7/2020 

I have this problem too that the power light is on but no other lights. It won’t read any salt level (0.00) and can’t be re-calibrated. Is that the T cell or the main power board?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/8/2020 

The problem could be the fuse or the current limiter on the mainboard. Both are relatively cheap to fix. What is the make and model of the unit?
 Reply

 Posted: 8/29/2020 

My Aqua Rite T-15 chlorine generator is short cycling the power light comes on, the generating light comes on, you hear a click as it starts to generate chlorine and then the power and generator light both go off at the same time, 10 to 15 seconds later they both come back on and the same thing then happens again over and over.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/1/2020 

I think our issue may be a bad current limiter. The current limiter is a little electronic circuit piece on the mainboard that tends to fail on these AquaRites. We do not have a guide or video on replacing the Aquarite current limiter just ety, but there are a few youtube videos that cover it. Here is an example: How to Repair Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite Pool Chlorine Generators
 Reply

 Posted: 9/2/2020 

Thank you it solved the problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/10/2020 

Display reading says "hot" what does this mean?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/23/2020 

The "hot" reading usually means the cell is reading the water is too hot for the cell to operate. The range of what "too hot' varies according to the model of salt cell. But if we take the AquaRite as an example, HOT means the water is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. If you check your diagnostics menu and the cell temp reads 215 degrees F, the cell's temperature sensor has shorted, and you need to replace the cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/23/2020 

I have a 13,500 gal pool with Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 control panel and T-Cell-15 generator.. My cell "died" ( or so I thought at the end of last season), so I replaced it today, and the failure mode continues. I am getting "Very Low Salt" readout on the Default menu page --same as before with the previous generator -- and on the Diagnostics menu, voltage reads 30 to 31 volts, amps reads zero, and salt ppm reads 0000. (I have added 320 lbs of salt over last three days--starting from near zero, so I know there's salt in the water!). If this is a mother board issue, is it repairable (I have fixed the "No Cell Power) problem several years ago by re-soldering a connection Thanks!
 Reply

 Posted: 7/12/2020 

Hi Bob. I have the same problem. Before replacing anything, I was wondering if you fixed your problem and how. I'm reluctant to change the cell. And if it's a motherboard issue, i'm wondering if it cannot be fixed as i did in the past by replacing a compensator (soldering)..Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/10/2020 

You can always try the soldering the current limiter route before you do the complete cell change out. You can also make sure that the correct cell type is selected in your setting. And as mentioned to Bob, you can also check the voltage and amperage in the diagnostics menu to see if the cell is malfunctioning. How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/24/2020 

If the salt cell amps reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/13/2020 

Hi, replaced salt cell recently. However the power and generating light are lit but every few minutes there’s a clicking sound.. I don’t get any instant salt readings nor am I getting an amp reading. Any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/15/2020 

What is the make and model of your salt system?
 Reply

 Posted: 9/21/2019 

We have the hayward t-15 cell on our pool for the last 10 months or so. It's worked great until a recent series of ill timed events resulted in a really high spike in ph. The ph was high for an unknown amount of time, but up to about 3 weeks. We've got the ph down to normal levels and all the other levels back to a normal range. Salt is just a little high right now, but the salt cell now says low salt. We've gone through the cleaning process, and when you first turn it on the real time salt reading goes straight to the salt level the local pool store says we have. Then over the course of 20 seconds it drops down to the 2500 range and turns itself off due to low salt. Did I roast the salt cell, or should I just re-calibrate?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/26/2019 

I would recommend recalibrating the salt level first. Check out our guide titled "How to Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aquarite".
 Reply

 Posted: 7/22/2019 

I've cleaned the T-15 cell and it looks good. salt level is 3600 but display reading says 1900, salt light and inspect cell light are on. amp reading is 0.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/22/2019 

If the amps readings shows zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 3/31/2020 

How do you check amps
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/1/2020 

if you press the diagnostic button three times, the value displayed should be the cell amperage. The guide to AquaRite's diagnostic display can be found here: How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values
 Reply