How To Know When a Salt Cell is Bad - General

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This guide will show different ways to determine if your salt chlorine generator (SCG) cell is damaged and/or needs replacing. An SCG cell can be expected to last 5 or more years if the pool and equipment are maintained properly. This guide outlines the general steps that should work for most models, but you should also reference your owner’s manual for more model-specific troubleshooting instructions.

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Step by Step

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Step 1

Balanced Water Chemistry - To maximize the life of your salt cell, you’ll need to maintain proper water chemistry. The critical components of healthy water chemistry are  Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity (TA,) Cyanuric Acid (CYA or Stabilizer,) Calcium Hardness (CH,) and Salt. The image on this step provides the ideal ranges these categories should be maintained within.

For example, suppose your pool is high in calcium. In that case, the salt cell will become caked with scale (calcium buildup, which restricts flow over the plates and prevents the electrolysis chemical reaction from happening. Water with too high of pH or alkalinity will also lead to excess scale buildup and staining to the pool surface. And low CYA levels lead to rapid chlorine burn-off because there isn’t enough “stabilizer”  to protect chlorine from UV rays hence why cyanuric acid is commonly referred to as sunblock for your pool.

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Step 2

Inspect Cell LED or Fault Code - The inspect cell alert is not always a sign your cell is dead, but it is a tip-off that you need to clean the cell, or the water chemistry requires attention.

On some salt chlorinator models, like the Hayward AquaRite, the Inspect Cell flashes after every 500 hundred run hours. This timed reminder is more of a fail-safe built-in by the manufacturer to ensure the cell is maintained at regular intervals, even if the cell doesn’t have build-up concerns.

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Step 3

Check that Output % is Set Correctly - Make sure the output percentage is set to its usual position. For Hayward salt systems, you’ll need to ensure the output toggle is set o to AUTO.

This step seems obvious, but there have been many hours wasted on troubleshooting, that could have been solved with a simple turn of a knob.

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Step 4

Adjust Output to Account for Bather Load and Water Temps - Warm water and high bather loads significantly increase your pool water’s chlorine demand. Try increasing the output by 20 to 30 percentage points to counteract the higher demand.

If you notice repeated cell/chlorine issues after rain, you may want to adjust your usual chlorine output to counteract. Remember, rainwater is untreated freshwater, and any runoff from your pool deck brings any dirt in with it. The increase in fresh water and dirt will drop your chlorine quickly.

Step 5

Check Salt Level - Most salt chlorine generators will shut down the cell's salt levels are outside the prescribed range. For example, the Pentair Intellchlor’s operational salinity range is 3000 - 4200 ppm (ideal 3400 ppm.). If the salt level is outside of this range, the CHECK SALT light will flash, and the cell will shut down until correct.

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Step 6

Check Pool Water Temps - Salt cells are temperature sensitive. Most are programmed to halt chlorine production and shut down if the temperature is lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The actual shutdown temperature level varies based on the salt system model.

Chlorine demand is extremely low in temps below 50 degrees; algae cannot grow in water that cold. So, if you need to introduce chlorine to the water, manually shock the pool. 

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Step 7

Check Water Flow Strength - A “NO FLOW” or “LOW FLOW” alert is usually caused by a dirty filter or skimmer baskets, but more serious causes can be a blockage in the plumbing line.

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Step 8

Check Cable Connections - Check all wire connections from the control panel to the cell, flow switch, and power source. Ensure these connections are tight and secure. 

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Step 9

Check Cell Plates for Scale or Corrosion - Your cell’s plates for the white metallic calcium buildup called scale. This build-up naturally occurs in the cell over time, even in well-balanced pools, but its growth rate increases in imbalanced water. 

After cleaning the Cell, look for loose, broken, or displaced plates. The scale may obstruct your view, so take this time to inspect the plates. If the plates are damaged, the best solution is the replace the salt cell.

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Step 10

Check the Cell’s Polarities - Some salt systems can reverse the current polarity of the cell; it is sometimes called the “self-clean” feature. Reversing the cell’s polarity helps loosen h the scale has with the plates. The loosening of that bond, coupled with the flushing flow of water from your pool pump, clears the scale build-up.

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Comments

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(121 to 152 of 152)

Anonymous  Posted: 3/4/2019 

I have a blue essence salt chlorinator. The pool says the salt level is high and the reading on the system says it's extremely high.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/4/2019 

Have you had the pool water tested by a local pool company? This will confirm the actual number. If you have had it tested, what is the ppm number?
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 Posted: 8/3/2018 

Hello Graham - I would begin by getting your water tested for CYA and phosphate levels. Cyanuric acid is a chemical meant to help protect your chlorine; but when levels get high, it starts to inhibit chlorine's effectiveness. And phosphates have to upside other than gobbling up chlorine when it should be used on important things like bacteria and algae.

You can always try using some standard chlorine shock to help get your salt system our of the chlorine deficit it currently finds itself.

 Reply

 Posted: 7/31/2018 

My T-3 seems to be operating correctly, all LED's are fine. Salinity is 2900, voltage an amperage are 27.8 and 2.72, chlorine output is 65-78p (it fluctuates a little but settles at 65p) but when I take the pool water to a local vendor for testing, I have no chlorine. I can try running the cell longer (its about 8 hours now) but is there anything else that I should be checking?
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 Posted: 7/20/2018 

Hello Pat - You may have some iron staining. I wouldn't worry about the brown discoloration inside the cell. As long as the cell is generating chlorine, it should be ok.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/22/2018 

Hello Carl - It does sound the cell is the culprit. The cells typically last 3-5 years and they are the number one cause for an incorrect salt reading when they start to go bad.
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 Posted: 6/20/2018 

We have a T-CELL-15; the salt level was checked by our local pool supply store and its 3400. The display on the Aqua-Rite shows 2100. We used the instructions in the Troubleshooting Manual to start the calibration procedure, and we can see the output voltage and current on the display; Voltage is 32 volts with no load, and 26.3 volts when the cell is on; the current flow however is about 4.5 amperes while the cell is on. the cell is on for about 2 minutes then the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights come on. Also we cannot get the Inspect Cell light to go off upon pressing the button for more than three seconds. The cell was also checked by the dealer, but it is over 7 years old. I've change the varistor on the board (I'm in electronics) and the electrolytic caps all check good on the board. My money's on the cell being the culprit?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/30/2018 

Hello Nic - I agree that the cell seems to be failing. The replacement for the T-5 cell is the GLXCELL5.
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 Posted: 5/30/2018 

I have an older T-5 cell that seems to be dying. I'm getting a salt reading of 4! Tried doing the fast reading of salt and still nothing above a 4. I'm completely confused on what cell I can replace the T-5 with. Could you please point me in the right direction? Thank you!
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 Posted: 5/26/2018 

Hi, The inside of my salt cell is brown, like it is burnt. It still maintains the Chlorine and their is no obvious scaling or deteriation. Is that bad and should I replace it? Thanks
 Reply

 Posted: 5/2/2018 

Hello Joseph - There a couple things we would recommend trying. If you haven't cleaned the cell recently, give that a try. The salt reading on most systems can be recalibrated. Check your owner's manual for specific instructions.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/1/2018 

Good Afternoon, noticed my salt level staying consistent with heavy rain for few weeks, went to supply store to check level (in which i have done in past) whom states salt level at 2300, but LED display states 3400? Anything i need to do, btw according to store there is free chlorine in the pool and water looks great
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2018 

Hello Paul - Your issue is often caused by a bad current limiter. I would take a look at the main circuit board inside of the control box. There is a nickel-sized black disk on the board. Check that to see if it cracked or falling apart. If so, you can try replacing that piece or the complete board. We also recommend reading through the troubleshooting guide for more tips.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2018 

Hi, I have a Blue Essence salt chlorine generator. My generator light will not go on. It does not flash or illuminate. What may be your suggestions to search. Paul
 Reply

 Posted: 3/28/2018 

I was having the same problem. Talked to Hayward and they told me since my cell is horizontal and have a variable speed pump that I could be getting air in the cell when it changes speed. Was told to rotate the cell so the hump was down to eliminate air from entering. I am giving it a try. It does make sense.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/5/2018 

Brad - Before you buy a new cell, I would try cleaning the one you have even if it looks clean now. It should be cleaned a couple of times a year depending on how well you maintain your chemicals. If there are buildups between the plates that you can't see, they will affect the salt readings. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell". It is very close to your Crystal Clean Cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/27/2018 

Hello, I have a Crystal Pure system that is about 2 years old. Lately my salt reading on the panel has been showing low so I was adding salt like I usually do when I noticed it wasnt increasing over 24hr period like it previously did. The salt reading has always been more accurate than my drop test as the drop test always showed lower. When I tested the water I discovered it was really high. The local pool store confirmed m readings. So I'm not sure why the system isn't reading the salt level properly. But since it is below the minimum threshold it won't generate chlorine. So is the cell gone bad or could there be something wrong with the panel? There doesn't appear to be any visible buildup on the cell either. Thanks!
 Reply

 Posted: 12/5/2017 

John - 4-5 years is the typical time to replace a salt cell. I would also have your pool's salt level checked by a pool store. If it's really at 7100 ppm, that is way too high and most cells shut down at that level. You should be getting a high salt warning. If it is that high, try reducing the level to around 3500 ppm before buying a new cell. See our guide on "How To Reduce the Salt Level In Your Pool".
 Reply

 Posted: 12/2/2017 

I have a Hayward salt cell. My control panel keeps giving me a low salt level, 1900-2000 range. I checked it with a test strip and it shows my salt level around 7100 ppm. I have cleaned my cell 3 times in the last 5 months. Is my cell worn out? It is 4 or 5 years old I believe.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/13/2017 

AAron - If the "No Flow" LED isn't on, water flow is probably not the problem. The "Inspect Cell" LED is programmed to come on after 500 hours of use to remind you to clean the cell. If you cell has not been cleaned recently, try cleaning it. When you replace the cell, hold the diagnostic button down for more than 3 seconds to turn the "Inspect Cell" LED off.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/8/2017 

I keep getting the inspect cell light. I have turned the system off, I have unplugged, I have even brought it in to the local dealer for testing. It reads as fine for them. There is a separate black cable that also goes to the machine. That seems to sense flow. Could that be the reason that the inspect cell is continually resetting? My pool is green because it stops generating when inspect cell activates.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/10/2017 

Morgan - Wait until the salt is completely dissolved, about 24 hours. Then test your salt level again. Take an independent salt reading, pool store or strip, to check your system and salt level. Note for clarification: the operation of your salt chlorine generator does not raise or lower your pool's salt level. It only measures it.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/7/2017 

I've just installed a new cell. Salt level was reading 0 (howeverver I didn't try to calibrate it before I started. I added 240 lbs. it now reads 2700. It hasn't been running long and our water is fairly warm. Should I add more salt now or will the level go up as it generates? Thank you
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/27/2017 

Crowhbc - Make sure the arrows on flow switch are installed pointing in the direction of the water flow. Then check for low water flow. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". First check for a clogged impeller, Step 6.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/26/2017 

Salt generator not producing chlorine, no lights on except no flow, salt cell is clean. Salt cell is 4 years old... help!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/18/2017 

trad - I don't know why your SCG system would work in the spa mode and not in the pool mode. It's the same water. Try cleaning the cell. Make sure the displayed cell size is the same and the actual cell size. Reset the average salt level. See our guide on "How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values" Steps 9 and 10 for these last two procedures.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/16/2017 

my cell, when in pool filter mode reads 4100 ppm with yellow light on and high amps message i changed the water yesterday and it still reads the same. but when in spa mode, cell works fine. help. i can't get it off of 4100 ppm in pool mode
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/23/2017 

Lois adams - The most common problems with salt cells is: they are old - 5 plus years; they need to be cleaned - see our guide on "How To Clean a Compupool Salt Generator Cell"; and the cell cable connections are loose.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/20/2017 

We have the same problem salt cell not working
We need help

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/1/2016 

BATCHIEF30 - When you replaced your cell, did you reset your cell type so that the displayed cell type matched the installed cell type? And did you reset your system's average salt level? See pages 4 and 5 in this Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may also have other tests to help isolate your problem. Try running your system in "super chlorinate" to see if that produces chlorine. Also, have your pool's salt level tested by a local pool store to verify that your salt level is within operational range.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/28/2016 

My 16,000 gallon salt pool is not holding chlorine. I've been dealing with this for weeks. I had Hayward tech support trouble shoot the system on the side of the house and they said it's working as it should. I took the cell to be tested and it showed "fail" on the test box. Hayward sent me a new cell since the failed cell was under a year old. I installed the new cell Monday night, it is now Wednesday, still zero chlorine. Pool water test results from this morning are as follows:

Free Chlorine: 0
Total Chlorine: 0.2
CYA: 89
Alk: 120
PH. 7.7
Hardness: Uh, don't remember but it was in range.
Salt: 3100
Phosphates: 0

Salt generator has been set at 60% for 3 weeks now. Power light is on, generating light is on.

I'm at a complete loss.

 Reply

 Posted: 9/5/2016 

Finally, a comprehensive set of salt chlorinator owner instructions that can be followed and understood.
 Reply