How to Install an Aftermarket AquaRite Main PCB

WRITTEN BY:  Inyo Pools

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The Hayward Aqua Riie Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is the heart of your salt system. Without it, your system will no longer sanitize your pool effectively. In most cases, the Aqua Rite Main PCB will fail due to an electrical surge, lightning, or a brownout.  PureLine has developed a new board to replace the original Hayward Aqua Rite Main PCB at a substantially lower price. This guide will show you how easy it is to replace the Hayward main PCB with a PureLine main PCB.

Things You'll Need

Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

CHECK COMPATIBILITY - The PureLine PC Board is a replacement for your original Goldline Control Hayward Aqua Rite PC Board. It is compatible with most Aqua Rite control panels or models with  a couple of limitations. The PureLine PC board will not link with any automatic control system your pool system may currently have. If you need full control to your automatic control system, we recommend you purchase the OEM Hayward Aqua Rite PC board. Also the PureLine PC Board is only compatible with the Aqua Rite T-CELL-15 and T-CELL-9 Systems. Please refer to the compatibility section of the PureLine Replacement Aqua Rite Main PCB User's Manual if you have any other compatibility concerns.

Step 2

COMPARE PCBs - A comparison of the new and old main PCBs will show a slight difference in how the components are laid out. We will explain any impacts in installation when we step through the process. Impacts are minor.

Step 3

ASSEMBLE EQUIPMENT REQUIRED - The equipment you will need to replace the main PCB includes:
- The PureLine Replacement PCB
- Philips Screwdriver
- Needle Nose Pliers
- 5/16 Socket Wrench

Step 4

TURN OFF POWER - Turn the power to the Aqua Rite SCG OFF at the circuit breaker. When the power is off, you will not see any LEDs or the display on.

Step 5

UNPLUG FLOW SWITCH CORD - Remove the flow switch cord from the bottom of the control unit.

Step 6

UNPLUG CELL CORD - Remove the white cell cable plug out of its socket at the bottom of the control unit.

Step 7

UNSCREW COVER PANEL- Using a 5/16 socket wrench, remove the two screws that secure the cover panel.

Step 8

LIFT OFF COVER PANEL - Lift the cover panel off of the control box.

Step 9

LIFT OFF DISPLAY BOARD - The small display PCB is mounted over the main PCD on four posts. Just lift the PCB off of the posts.

Step 10

REMOVE POWER WIRES - Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two power lines located in the lower end of the PCB on terminals one and four.

Step 11

REMOVE CONTROL WIRES - With a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the blue, white, violet, gray, red, black, orange and yellow cable. These should pop off pretty easily.

Step 12

UNSCREW MAIN PCB - Using the 5/16 socket wrench, remove the two screws that hold the PCB in place.


Step 13

LIFT OFF MAIN PCB - Remove the old main PCB. Move the PCB away from the edge slightly to clear the screws and slotted holes. Then the PCB should just lift out.

Step 14

INSERT PURELINE MAIN PCB - Place the new PureLine PCB exactly where the old PCB was. You’ll see the two slotted holes in the mounting frame that you will want to line up on. Then slide the PCB right to the main frame.


Step 15

SECURE NEW PCB - Secure the new PCB in place with two screws using the 5/16 socket wrench. Just tighten the screw snugly. Don't over tighten them.

Step 16

ATTACH SET 1 OF CONTROL WIRES - Attach the red and black control wires first. On the original PCB, you'll notice that the red and black wires were a little bit higher in the upper right-hand corner. They moved then down slightly on the new PCB. The red wire is attached to the terminal closest to the PCB's edge.

Step 17

ATTACH SET 2 OF CONTROL WIRES - Attach the orange and yellow control wires. On the original board, these were located over in the lower right-hand corner but now on the new board, they're on the upper left-hand corner.

Step 18

ATTACH SET 3 OF CONTROL WIRES - Now we'll connect the gray, violet, white, blue control wires. There are color labels on the board that tells where each of these wires go with one discrepancy. The blue wire goes to the terminal coded "black".


Step 19

INSTALL JUMPERS - Before we connect the power lines, we need to add jumper(s) to configure the system for either 230V or 115V. For 230V, place a single jumper between the two middle screws, two and three. For 115V, you will need to install two jumpers, one between terminals one and two, and one between three and four. Since we are configuring this system for 115V, we will add two jumpers. The original PCB had labels one through four. The new board does not. If there is any confusion, the wiring instructions are on the inside door of your control unit.

Step 20

RECONNECT POWER LINES - Connect the power lines to the number one and number four terminals. Either wire can go to either terminal. Make sure the wires are secured tightly.

Step 21

INSERT DISPLAY BOARD - The four holes at the corners of the display PCB will be placed on the four plastic prongs coming up from the main PCB. As you are placing the display PCB, make sure that the display window is position at the top of the main PCB. Press the display PCB on until you feel it snap into place.

Step 22

REPLACE COVER - Place the cover back in place by first lining up the slots then pressing the cover down. You may have to do a little adjusting to make everything fit in its place.

Step 23

SECURE COVER - Secure the panel cover in place with two screws using the 5/16 socket wrench. Just tighten the screw snugly. Don't over tighten them

Step 24

REPLACE FLOW SWITCH CABLE - Plug the flow switch cable back in its place. When it is properly aligned, you will hear it click into place.

Step 25

REPLACE CELL CORD PLUG - Push the plug on the cell cord into its receptacle. Push firmly to make sure it is set all the way in.

Step 26

TURN POWER ON - Turn the power to the control unit on at the circuit breaker.

Step 27

VIEW LEDs AND DISPLAY - The display will come on showing a value for the average salt level. Also, the power LED should be on with a flashing "No Flow" LED. If your pump is not running, you can ignore the "No Flow" LED.

Step 28

DISPLAY CELL SIZE - There are a couple more steps you have to do when you get a new board. The first thing will be to input your cell size. If you don’t know your cell size you can actually look on the side of your cell and in our case it's a T-Cell-15. Now you have to press the diagnostics button eight times until you see the cell size appear. We are currently set up for cell size" t-3"

Step 29

CHANGE CELL SIZE - To change the cell size to "t-15", you'll take the main switch from auto to super chlorinate and back to auto repeatedly until you see "t-15" in the display, Then you just move back to auto and it's set.

Step 30

DISPLAY UNITS - Chances are the new board is going to come set in the metric units, and you will want to switch it to standard units like 'parts per million' and "feet". What you have to do to change these units is first to press the diagnostics button five times until you see 0.0.

Step 31

CHANGE UNITS - Then switch the main switch from auto to super chlorinate and back to auto. Now your system will display standard units.

Step 32

READY TO GO - With the above changes, your Hayward Aqua Rite SCG with its newly installed PureLine main PCB should be fully functional.

Comments

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Inyopools  Posted: 10/24/2016 18:41 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

amg - The jumpers are flat metal clips that are supplied with the aftermarket board - usually taped inside the cover door. They are used to connect two of the four terminals together. If the customer has 230v, a single jumper is placed under the two middle screws for terminals 2 & 3. For 115V, the customer will need to install two jumpers, one between terminals 1 & 2, and one between 3 & 4. See our guide on "How To Install a Crystal Pure Salt Chlorine Generator". Steps 21 through 23 show a little clearer view of a jumper and how they are configured for each supply voltage.


amg  Posted: 10/24/2016 17:01 PM 

I was doing great until the jumper step. Getting the right voltage seems like a pretty big deal, but you just provide a fuzzy picture and instructions to insert a jumper. What is a jumper? Where do I get this (not listed in supplies needed)? How do I install it? Where do I install it?