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How To Install an In-Line Salt Chlorine Generator

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This guide provides a step-by-step procedure for installing a typical in-line salt chlorine generator. Note: This guide is intended to give you a visual reference to supplement the manufacturer's owner's manual, not replace it. Make sure you read and understand your owner's manual before installing your unit. It will have the most up to date and manufacturer-specific information. An in-line salt chlorine generator generally has two parts: the power unit that supplies DC power for electrolysis, and the in-line electrolytic cell which converts diluted saltwater to chlorine (hypochlorous acid). Some units also have an external flow meter to detect if no water is flowing through the pipe. Although this guide is written with specific references to installing a Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator, most steps can be applied to any in-line salt generator. Also, this guide is written for an inground pool installati



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Steps

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Step 1

Your first step is to make sure you have all the items you will need to install your new salt chlorine generator. These will include: items to mount the Control Unit - level, drill, screwdriver; items to wire the Control Unit - voltage meter, screwdriver, wire cutters; items to install the Cell into the piping - hacksaw, file, pvc primer & glue, couplings, cleaning rag.

Step 2

Your next step will be mounting the Control Unit onto the wall close to the pool timer. Make sure that this location is at least 10 feet from the edge of the pool and that the 6 foot DC power cord connected to the Control Unit can reach the section of pipe selected to mount the Cell. The Cell has to be mounted at the end of the return pipe after all other units (i.e. after pump, filter and heater if you have one). In this case we will be replacing an existing Tablet Chlorinator with a Salt Chlorine Generator Cell.

Step 3

Mount the Control Unit bracket at eye level on the wall and, if possible, in an area out of direct weather and sunlight. We are using a level here to line up the bracket.

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Step 4

Place the Control Unit onto the bracket and secure temporarily with 2 screws.

Step 5

Your next step is to wire the power cord from the Control Unit to the pool timer. When wiring, be sure to follow local and NEC/CEC electrical codes. CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL ELECTRICIAN IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING WITH POWER. Incorrect wiring can cause dangerous shocks and may void your warranty.

Step 6

Before wiring, you will have to check the output power level at the timer going to your pump. It will be either 120VAC or 240VAC. In preparation for measuring your power, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE TIMER BOX. There should be a circuit breaker before the timer box.

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Step 7

WITH POWER OFF, remove the cover over the screw connectors inside the timer box.

Step 8

This picture shows the wiring inside the timer box. Three wires come in from the left of the box. Two are labeled INPUT and one GROUND. Generally, but not always, color of the wire is significant. If the two INPUT wires are red and black, they are both load wires and provide 240VAC. If they are white and black, white is neutral and black provides 120VAC. The green wires provide GROUND. There are 5 terminals in the timer box. The left most, labeled “A”, is NOT USED. The other four are labeled 1 to 4. The INPUT wires are connected to 1 and 3.The GROUND wire SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO THE GROUND SCREW JUST ABOVE TERMINAL "A". IT IS WRONGLY SHOWN IN THE CURRENT PICTURE AS GOING TO "A".The OUTPUT wires are attached to 2 and 4. The OUTPUT wires are currently wired to the pump.

Step 9

To measure your voltage level, TURN ON POWER back on at circuit breaker. Set your digital multimeter to 300 VAC and place the meter's probes on the OUTPUT terminals, 2 and 4. It does not matter which probe is placed on which terminal. Be careful not to let the probes short out between two adjacent terminals. The meter should read close to 240VAC if your power is 240VAC - 120VAC if the timer is using 120VAC.

Click here to view the multimeter. 

Step 10

TURN OFF POWER at the breaker and replace the cover.

Step 11

Now you must check how your Control Unit is configured internally. Your Control Unit can be set to operate at either 120VAC or 240VAC to match your voltage at the timer. Control Units are generally shipped from factory in 240VAC configuration. If your timer power is 120VAC you will have to change the VAC power configuration within the Control Unit from 240 to 120. Each manufacturer has their own power configuration. If you are not installing a Compupool Control Unit, see the manufacturer's wiring guide for instructions on internal wiring of the Control Unit

Step 12

To check the configuration of your Control Unit, take the Control Unit off the bracket and take off the Control Unit cover by removing the 6 screws on the base of the unit.

Step 13

If you are installing a Compupool Control Unit and your output timer power is 240VAC, the 240VAC configuration should look like this. The key connections that make this 240VAC are red wire to J12 and orange wire to J8.

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Step 14

If you are installing a Compupool Control Unit and your output timer power is 120VAC, the 120VAC configuration should be changed to look like this. For 120VAC the red wire goes to J11 and orange wire goes to J14.

Step 15

Replace and secure the Control Unit cover with the 6 screws. Remount the Control Unit onto its bracket and secure with 4 screws.

Step 16

Your next step is to wire the power cord from the Control Unit to the timer box as show in the picture at left. Red wire to terminal 2, black to terminal 4 and green to GROUND.

Step 17

Attach a minimum 8 AWG copper wire between the bonding lug on the outside of the Control Unit and your pool bonding system. This system should already be in place for your pump. If you are installing a Compupool Control Unit, this bonding lug is shown at the left. Failure to adequately bond your power unit can lead to severe electrical shocks. Note: This bonding wire is installed in addition to your normal grounding process (green wire). You need both per code.

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Step 18

You can test the Control Unit now before installing the Cell. Do this test WITHOUT connecting the DC power line to the Cell. Turn POWER ON to the Control Box at the timer box - pump will go on also. The Control Unit lights will go on momentarily then off. Push the ON/OFF button on the Control Unit to turn the Control Unit ON. See Operator's Guide , to test out the rest of the Control Unit functions.

Step 19

Your next step is to install the in-line cell. The Cell has to be mounted horizontally and should be placed as the last element in the return line after the pump, filter and heater, if you have one.

Step 20

The Cell should be mounted with the inlet and outlet ports facing down. These ports are marked. Water should flow into the "INLET" port and out though the "OUTLET" port.

Step 21

Make sure the barrel unions are screwed tightly to the cell. Hand Tighten.

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Step 22

Cut two sections of pipe about 10". You can buy a large PVC pipe cutter that make a clean straight cut or you can use a regular hacksaw. Just remember to make as square a cut as possible.

Step 23

Debur and clean the outside and inside edges of the two pipes. A file with one side flat and one side round works well.

Step 24

Glue the 10" pipes to the barrel unions. Make sure the pipe and inside of the union are clean. Gluing is a two step process. First apply a thin but even coat of purple primer on each surface to be joined: the outside of the pipe and the inside of the union. After the primer has dried, apply a THIN EVEN coat of glue to both surfaces. Immediately push the pipe all the way into the union and twist 1/4 turn to spread the glue. Hold the pipe in place for 30 seconds until the glue sets. Repeat for the other union.

Step 25

Place 90-degree elbows onto the ends of the two 10" pipes as shown. Do not glue them on. These are placed on to determine how much of a space to cut out of your return line.

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Step 26

Measure the distance between the ends of the elbows. It should be 9". Remember that your return pipe will slide inside each elbow 1 3/8" so subtract 2 3/4" off your space measurement. This leaves 6 1/4" for the space to be cut out of the return line. This Cell is part of the larger CPSC36 unit. If you are installing the CPSC24 unit, the space may be shorter.

Step 27

TURN OFF POWER to the Control Unit and pump at the breaker box. Relieve water pressure in the line at the relief valve on the filter.

Step 28

Assuming that you are replacing an existing chlorinator with the salt chlorine generation cell, cut out the existing chlorinator so that there is a 6 1/4" space between the ends of the return line. Depending on your current configuration. you may have to cut out more pipe and then rebuild the piping so that a gap of 6 1/4" is left to install the new Cell.

Step 29

Now comes the tricky part. You have to glue two elbows on the ends of the return piping and place the pipes coming out of the Cell into the elbows before they dry. By steps - prep each elbow and return pipe end with primer and glue.

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Step 30

Place the elbows on the return pipes and push them on all the way.

Step 31

Quickly place the pipes from the Cell into the other end of the elbows to make sure the elbows are aligned and spaced correctly with the Cell pipe. The Cell pipes don't have to go on all the way - about 1/2" to 3/4" is sufficient. Just far enough to ensure that the fittings are aligned. Hold them there for another minute to let the glue set.

Step 32

Now take the Cell pipes out of the elbows and apply primer and glue to the Cell pipes and the unglued sides of the elbows. Push the Cell pipes onto the elbows all the way in and hold a couple of minutes until they dry.

Step 33

Wait two hours to let the glue joints fully cure before running water through the piping.

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Step 34

Attach the cell plug. Make sure it is pushed on completely as shown at left.

Step 35

Your salt generator cell is ready for operation. Make sure the pump is primed and TURN POWER ON at the breaker box to the pump and Control Unit . If the Control Unit isn't On, turn it ON at the Control Unit.

Step 36

Next you want to add salt to your pool for the Salt Chlorine Generator to act on. The Compupool CPSC/CPA Series is recommended to run at a salt concentration of 3500 ppm. If you are not installing a Compupool unit, check your manufacturer's instructions for their recommended level of concentration . Use a salt that is at least 99.8% pure NaCl. The preferred salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality, NON-iodized salt. Avoid using salt with anti-caking agents like sodium ferrocyanide, also known as yellow YPS (prussiate of soda. These cause some discoloration of fittings and pool surface finishes. DO NOT use calcium chloride.

Step 37

Using a saltwater test strip, measure the current salt level of your pool. For the Compupool generators, the ideal is 3500 ppm. If the level is low, determine the number of gallons in your pool and add salt according to the Salt Table. For example, if your pool has 15,000 gals of water and your current salt level is 2500, you need to add 125 lbs of salt.

Click here to view salt test kits. 

Step 38

Before adding salt to your pool, be sure to TURN OFF the salt chlorine generator at the Control Unit. The generator should not be turned on until the salt is completely dissolved. Leave the PUMP ON to circulate the water and help dissolve the salt.

Step 39

When you add salt, DO NOT pour it directly into the skimmer. For best results empty the required salt into the shallow end of the pool and let it dissolve and circulate through the main drain. The salt may take about 24 hours to dissolve completely. Finer grades of salt will dissolve faster.

Step 40

After the salt has dissolved, turn on the salt chlorinator. Check to see that the salt level is around 3500 ppm. Your pool should be maintained at around this level. A low salt level below 3000 ppm reduces the efficiency of the salt generator which results in low chlorine production. A high salt level above 4500 ppm can rapidly reduce the longevity of the cell. See Operator's Guide , for further instructions.

Step 41

Picture of the completed Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator installation.

Click here to view salt systems. 

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(41 to 51 of 51)

Anonymous  Posted: 7/30/2011 

Just got my compu system installed (by professional) it was a chlorine pool before, so 4 bags of salt was added, how long till pool looks clear?
 Reply

 Posted: 7/29/2011 

For those who see air inside the cell and are bothered by it, get use to it because that is chlorine gas and thats the way the system sanitizes you water.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/12/2011 

That is correct. You are using the timer to turn the cell on and off with the pump. You cannot have the cell powered on without the pump operating.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/23/2011 

Hi,
My system has been completely installer per your recommendations and the manufactures guidelines. What is still fuzzy to me is whether the power must be going to the console 24/7. I've got my pool pump on a timer and the electrician wired the console so it is also on the same circuit (when pump goes off, compu pool goes off). Is this correct?
 Reply

 Posted: 6/9/2011 

I have just installed a compupool salt generator in my inground pool. It seems to be working fine but the cell seems to have air in it and I can't get it out. I've tried bleeeding it and nothing seems to work. It is about 3/4 full with water. What can I do to solve this problem or is it ok.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/5/2011 

Can I use a #8 bare copper bonding wire and run it from the pump lug to the SWG lug? If not, how do I spice into the bonding wire that is connected to the pump? It is burried underground with only about 3 ft. of it exposed. Thanks
 Reply

 Posted: 4/13/2011 

Is there a problem with locating the control unit inside a metal weatherproof box or inside my garage and run wires through the wall.??...assuming of course that there is enough cable/ wire length available
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/6/2010 

You want to install the generator after your pump, filter, and gas heater / heat pump. This is to protect your equipment from damage from the chlorination before it enters the pool. Solar systems do not have much in the internal equipment to be damaged. I do not see any problems that would occur due to installing the pool salt generator before the solar systems.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/4/2010 

Hi can a salt generator be mounted after the filter then the solar panel then to the pool and if not why. I have my generator in line after the filter then it will go through the solar system then to the pool and it seems to work find. Thanks
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/24/2010 

Very helpful. Thank you for putting together such a concise tutorial.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/26/2010 

I hooked my RJ series to my pool pump timer and it does not work. All the led lights come on and stay on and the LCD screen never comes on....any ideas what is wrong??? The voltage is correct I checked already
 Reply