Generally you will want to replace your old pool pump with an equivalent size new pool pump. When selecting a pool pump, remember that you must look at the pool pumps Service factor as well as its listed HP to determine its true or Total HP (THP). The old standard pool pump is a 1 1/2 HP Hayward Super II pump. The equivalent EE pool pump is listed as a 1 HP Hayward EE Super II pump. However, it's actual HP, called Total HP, is the product of HP (1) times its Service Factor (SF = 1.5) or 1.5 Total HP. The standard old pool pump is listed as 1.5 HP. It has a SF of 1.0 so its THP is 1.5 HP times 1.0 SF = 1.5 THP. The two pool pumps are equivalent - they will generate the same Gallons per Minute of water flow though the pipes.
The picture to the left shows the location of the old pool pump that we want to replace. Place the new pool pump along side the old pool pump to get a idea or relative size and how much you may have to re-position the new pump. See picture in the introduction. Pool pumps are very close but we will want to shift the new pool pump 1" or 2 " right to add unions on either side of the new pool pump. Unions will facilitate the removal of the pool pump for future repairs or servicing without having to cut the pipes.
Before starting to removing the old pool pump, TURN OFF ALL POWER TO THE POOL PUMP at the breaker box.
We are now going to disconnect the wires to the old pool pump. If you are uncomfortable with working with electricity, contact a licensed electrician for help in disconnecting and reconnecting the pool pumps. You can hurt yourself or damage the pump if you are unsure about what you are doing. Remove the two screws that hold the cover onto the end of the motor. Remove the cover.
This is a picture of the wiring on the old pool pump. Since the new pool pump is equivalent to the old pool pump, you will want to wire the new pump exactly like this. The first thing to see is that this pump has been wired for 230 V and not 115V. The white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V. Three wires are coming to the pump from the circuit box: red, black and green. For 230V both red and black are load wires, there is no neutral. In this case red is going to the L1 terminal and black is going to the L2 terminal. The green wire is ground and is screwed under the green screw to the far right.
For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND. The black plug has two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.
Your next step is to identify where you have to cut the piping to remove the old pool pump. This picture show three points to cut: A, B, and C. We want to add two unions at points A and B when we add the new pump. As mentioned before this will shift the new pool pumps position 1" to 2" to the right. If we didn't have to shift the pump we could get by with cutting the pipes at points A and B. However, since we are shifting the pool pump, the angle on the pipe at B is going to change and we will have to cut the pipe at C to rotate that connection slightly counterclockwise. Therefore, we will cut the pipes at A and C, to remove the old pump.
Lay the new pool pump where the old pump was. We want to hook up the suction side of the pool pump (point A) first so we know exactly where the new pump will be positioned. Since the old and new pool pumps are the same height, we will not have to make a height adjustment to connect the suction pipe to the pool pump.
Our first fitting will be the one connecting the pipe to the pool pump on the suction side. This fitting has 2" threaded end and a 1 1/2 slip end. The threaded end screws into the pool pump. To seal this joint, use Teflon tape. Make sure the fitting is thoroughly cleaned. When applying the Teflon tape to the threads, wrap the entire threaded portion of the male fitting with two to four layers of tape. Wind the tape CLOCKWISE as you face the open end of the fitting, beginning at the end of the fitting. DO NOT use Plumber's Pipe Dope.
Now we want to glue a union onto the pipe cut at point A. Again make sure the pipe and inside of the union are clean. Separate the union at its middle. Glueing is a two step process. First apply a thin but even coat of purple primer on each surface to be joined: the outside of the pipe and the inside of one end of the union. After the primer dries, apply a thin even coat of glue to both surfaces. Immediately push the union all the way onto the pipe and twist 1/4 turn to spread the glue.
Cut a short length of pipe to connect the other end of the union to the pump fitting. Debur and clean. Remember that the pipe must be long enough to slide 1 1/4" into each fitting and still leave a short distance between the fitting and union. So pipe should be about 3 1/2" long. Prime and glue pipe between the fitting and union using the process described above.
This picture shows the gluing sequence for connecting the discharge pipes and fittings. At 1, cut a 9" pipe and glue it to the pool pump fitting installed above. At 2, glue a connector to the pipe going to the filter. Then cut a pipe to the same height of the pipe at 1. Use a level to determine this height and remember before cutting the pipe to add 1 1/4" for the overlap into the connector. Glue this pipe into the connector. Use the level again to ensure that the tops of the two pipes are level (at the same height). Push 90 degree elbows on top of these pipes. Just push them on half way. They will not go on all the way until lubricated with the glue. DO NOT GLUE the elbows on.
At 4, cut a 3" Pipe and glue it between the elbow and one end of the union. At 5, measure the distance between the other end of the union and the other elbow, add 2 1/2" for overlap, cut the pipe and glue it between the union and the elbow. On this step, immediately after glueing the pipe to the elbow and before the glue sets, place the elbows back onto the vertical pipes to ensure length and angle are correct. They don't have to go all the way on - half way is sufficient.
At 6, glue the two elbows onto the two vertical pipes. Do this quickly before the glue sets up. Note: This sequence of connecting the fittings will vary with each installation but it does give you an idea of what to consider when cutting and glueing the fittings and pipes.
All that remains now is to attach the wiring to the pool pump motor. Again a CAUTION: If you are uncomfortable with working with electricity, have an professional electrician wire the pump. Incorrect wiring could result in serious injury. Also any resulting damage to the pool pump will void its warranty.
Reverse the sequence of Steps 4 through 10 for removing the wires. Screw the metal elbow into the pump housing. Feed the 3 wires through the elbow. Attach the conduit collar. Attached the three wire to their appropriate terminals. Attach the black plug. Secure the heavy copper bonding wire to the lug on the pump motor housing. Note: In this installation this bonding wire is also connected between the pump and heater to bond the heater. Finally replace and secure the motor cover.
Installation is complete. CAUTION: WAIT 2 HOURS after glueing the last connection before turning on the pump. Then fill the pump basket to prime the pool pump; turn the power back on; and close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.