How To Replace a Pool Pump With An Energy Efficient Pool Pump

Written by:  Danny Rhodehamel
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 (3.38 OUT OF 5 STARS ON 59 RATINGS)

If it's time to dump your old pool pump, consider replacing it with an Energy Efficient (EE) Hayward pool pump. Not only is it quieter but an EE pool pump can save you over 20% in energy costs. Replacing your old pool pump is relatively easy as we will show in this quide.

Tips & Warnings

Video

Things You'll Need

Step by Step

Step 1
replace old pool pump

Generally you will want to replace your old pool pump with an equivalent size new pool pump. When selecting a pool pump, remember that you must look at the pool pumps Service factor as well as its listed HP to determine its true or Total HP (THP). The old standard pool pump is a 1 1/2 HP Hayward Super II pump. The equivalent EE pool pump is listed as a 1 HP Hayward EE Super II pump. However, it's actual HP, called Total HP, is the product of HP (1) times its Service Factor (SF = 1.5) or 1.5 Total HP. The standard old pool pump is listed as 1.5 HP. It has a SF of 1.0 so its THP is 1.5 HP times 1.0 SF = 1.5 THP. The two pool pumps are equivalent - they will generate the same Gallons per Minute of water flow though the pipes.

Step 2
pool pump replacement

The picture to the left shows the location of the old pool pump that we want to replace. Place the new pool pump along side the old pool pump to get a idea or relative size and how much you may have to re-position the new pump. See picture in the introduction. Pool pumps are very close but we will want to shift the new pool pump 1" or 2 " right to add unions on either side of the new pool pump. Unions will facilitate the removal of the pool pump for future repairs or servicing without having to cut the pipes.

Step 3

Before starting to removing the old pool pump, TURN OFF ALL POWER TO THE POOL PUMP at the breaker box.

Step 4
replace ee pool pump motor

We are now going to disconnect the wires to the old pool pump. If you are uncomfortable with working with electricity, contact a licensed electrician for help in disconnecting and reconnecting the pool pumps. You can hurt yourself or damage the pump if you are unsure about what you are doing. Remove the two screws that hold the cover onto the end of the motor. Remove the cover.

Step 5
pool pump wiring

This is a picture of the wiring on the old pool pump. Since the new pool pump is equivalent to the old pool pump, you will want to wire the new pump exactly like this. The first thing to see is that this pump has been wired for 230 V and not 115V. The white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V. Three wires are coming to the pump from the circuit box: red, black and green. For 230V both red and black are load wires, there is no neutral. In this case red is going to the L1 terminal and black is going to the L2 terminal. The green wire is ground and is screwed under the green screw to the far right.

Step 6
pool pump wiring

For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND. The black plug has two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.

Step 7

Take the three in-coming wires (green, red and black) off their terminals.

Step 8
disconnect pool pump

Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump and pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow.

Step 9
wiring pool pump

After the three wires are free of the pool pump, unscrew the elbow off of the old pool pump. You will replace this on the new pool pump.

Step 10

Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. Use pliers if this lug is rusted. At this point all electrical wire are disconnected from your old pool pump and you are ready to cut the pool pump out of your pool system.

Step 11
energy efficient pool pump

Your next step is to identify where you have to cut the piping to remove the old pool pump. This picture show three points to cut: A, B, and C. We want to add two unions at points A and B when we add the new pump. As mentioned before this will shift the new pool pumps position 1" to 2" to the right. If we didn't have to shift the pump we could get by with cutting the pipes at points A and B. However, since we are shifting the pool pump, the angle on the pipe at B is going to change and we will have to cut the pipe at C to rotate that connection slightly counterclockwise. Therefore, we will cut the pipes at A and C, to remove the old pump.

Step 12

IMPORTANT. RELIEVE THE PRESSURE in the system before making any cuts. To relieve pressure, screw the relief valve on your filter counter-clockwise. The reading on the pressure valve should drop to zero.

Step 13
ee pool pump

Cut the pipe at point A. You can buy a large PVC pipe cutter that make a clean straight cut or you can use a regular hacksaw. Just remember to make as square a cut as possible. Also remember that the union will overlap the pipe by 1 1/4" so leave 2" of the old pipe to attached to.

Step 14

Cut the pipe at point C. Cut 4" or 5" up from the bottom fitting.

Step 15

Lift out the old pool pump and set it aside.

Step 16
energy efficient pool pump

Debur and clean the outside and inside edges of the two pipes just cut at points A and C. A file with one side flat and one side round works well. If there is water in the pipe at C, let some of the water out at the filter so that it doesn't interfere with the gluing of the pipe later.

Step 17

Lay the new pool pump where the old pump was. We want to hook up the suction side of the pool pump (point A) first so we know exactly where the new pump will be positioned. Since the old and new pool pumps are the same height, we will not have to make a height adjustment to connect the suction pipe to the pool pump.

Step 18
ee pool pump

Our first fitting will be the one connecting the pipe to the pool pump on the suction side. This fitting has 2" threaded end and a 1 1/2 slip end. The threaded end screws into the pool pump. To seal this joint, use Teflon tape. Make sure the fitting is thoroughly cleaned. When applying the Teflon tape to the threads, wrap the entire threaded portion of the male fitting with two to four layers of tape. Wind the tape CLOCKWISE as you face the open end of the fitting, beginning at the end of the fitting. DO NOT use Plumber's Pipe Dope.

Step 19

Screw the threaded fitting into the pool pump. Tighten the fitting by hand and then use a tool to engage the fitting an additional 1 1/2 turns. DO NOT over tighten the fitting.

Step 20

Now we want to glue a union onto the pipe cut at point A. Again make sure the pipe and inside of the union are clean. Separate the union at its middle. Glueing is a two step process. First apply a thin but even coat of purple primer on each surface to be joined: the outside of the pipe and the inside of one end of the union. After the primer dries, apply a thin even coat of glue to both surfaces. Immediately push the union all the way onto the pipe and twist 1/4 turn to spread the glue.

Step 21
energy efficient pool pump

Cut a short length of pipe to connect the other end of the union to the pump fitting. Debur and clean. Remember that the pipe must be long enough to slide 1 1/4" into each fitting and still leave a short distance between the fitting and union. So pipe should be about 3 1/2" long. Prime and glue pipe between the fitting and union using the process described above.

Step 22

We now have the two ends of the union glued to either side of the pipe line. To reconnect the union, screw the union collar onto the threads. The suction side of the pool pump in now connected.

Step 23
ee pool pump

This picture show the finished suction side of the pool pump.

Step 24

Next we will connect the discharge side of the pool pump. Tape another 2" treaded / 1 1/2" slip fitting and screw it into the discharge hole on top of the pump.

Step 25
energy efficient pool pump

This picture shows the gluing sequence for connecting the discharge pipes and fittings. At 1, cut a 9" pipe and glue it to the pool pump fitting installed above. At 2, glue a connector to the pipe going to the filter. Then cut a pipe to the same height of the pipe at 1. Use a level to determine this height and remember before cutting the pipe to add 1 1/4" for the overlap into the connector. Glue this pipe into the connector. Use the level again to ensure that the tops of the two pipes are level (at the same height). Push 90 degree elbows on top of these pipes. Just push them on half way. They will not go on all the way until lubricated with the glue. DO NOT GLUE the elbows on.

Step 26

At 4, cut a 3" Pipe and glue it between the elbow and one end of the union. At 5, measure the distance between the other end of the union and the other elbow, add 2 1/2" for overlap, cut the pipe and glue it between the union and the elbow. On this step, immediately after glueing the pipe to the elbow and before the glue sets, place the elbows back onto the vertical pipes to ensure length and angle are correct. They don't have to go all the way on - half way is sufficient.

Step 27

At 6, glue the two elbows onto the two vertical pipes. Do this quickly before the glue sets up. Note: This sequence of connecting the fittings will vary with each installation but it does give you an idea of what to consider when cutting and glueing the fittings and pipes.

Step 28

All that remains now is to attach the wiring to the pool pump motor. Again a CAUTION: If you are uncomfortable with working with electricity, have an professional electrician wire the pump. Incorrect wiring could result in serious injury. Also any resulting damage to the pool pump will void its warranty.

Step 29

Reverse the sequence of Steps 4 through 10 for removing the wires. Screw the metal elbow into the pump housing. Feed the 3 wires through the elbow. Attach the conduit collar. Attached the three wire to their appropriate terminals. Attach the black plug. Secure the heavy copper bonding wire to the lug on the pump motor housing. Note: In this installation this bonding wire is also connected between the pump and heater to bond the heater. Finally replace and secure the motor cover.

Step 30

Installation is complete. CAUTION: WAIT 2 HOURS after glueing the last connection before turning on the pump. Then fill the pump basket to prime the pool pump; turn the power back on; and close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.

Step 31
energy efficient pool pump

This picture shows completed installation of the Hayward Energy Efficient pool pump.

Comments (1 to 10 of 10)

Add Comment



User: Inyopools

John - Thanks you for your comment. You are correct. Tape is not required on a union since, as you point out, its O-ring provides the seal.

User: James

I have a question. Why did you wrap teflon tape around the threads of the union? Doesn't the union have an o-ring that seals it?

User: Inyopools

MARKAMANIA - If your 1 HP motor provides enough flow to keep your size pool clean, stay with 1 HP. A 1.50 HP motor will cost you more in operating costs.

User: MARKAMANIA

IS IT BETTER TO REPLACE A 1 HP MOTOR WITH A 1.50 HORSE MOTOR

User: Mike

I need to change my pool pump. I've been searching the internet for hours, looking at web sites and you Tube videos. This is the best by far. I especially appreciate the detailed wiring instructions. I feel like a confident DIYer thanks to you!

User: InyoPools

Larry - According to a pump manufacturer, going from a 2" port to a 1 1/2" port will reduce your pumps water flow by 25-40% depending on your pool system configuration. It can be done. In fact that is what we did in this How To Guide. But I wouldn't do it for pumps with a THP rating of greater than 1.5 HP (THP - HP x Service Factor (SF)). You'll put too much stress on the piping. If you see cavitation in the strainer basket after 3-5 minutes of initial priming, you have too much back pressure - the water can't get out fast enough though the 1 1/2" pipe. At this point you might consider reducing the size of your impeller one step.

User: Larry

Question: Same as one previously posted: Inlet and outlet of pump to be replaced are 1 1/2". New pump is 2". OK tol adapt the pump to the 1 1/2" pipe? If so, how will it affect flow rate, efficiency, etc? Thanks in advance.

User: mschrantz

This is a great (and very detailed) description of the installation process for a pool pump. I'm doing this for a Pentair Intelliflow pump and the process is very similar. My only comment is that in Step 26, I believe that you mean cut a 3" (not 3') section of pipe. Using a strap wrench, rathern than channel locks,would be less likely to bugger up the threaded sections. I'd like to see a similarly detailed description of wiring, specifically, grounding, bonding, and installation of a GFCI).

User: Bobcat

Thanks for the information on replacing a pool pump

User: 

New Sta Rite pumps have 2" fittings, and all old lines and filter use 1 1/2" pipe. Will reducing to 1 1/2" pipes be a problem for the new pump? All lines coming and going to the pool are 1 1/2".

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Tips & Warnings

CAUTION: If you are uncomfortable with working with electricity, have a professional electrician wire the pool pump. Incorrect wiring could result in serious injury. Also any resulting damage to the pump will void its warranty.

CAUTION: DO NOT work on the pump without first turning off all power to the pool pump at the circuit breaker.

CAUTION: Make sure you relieve the water pressure in the pipes before cutting a pipe.

CAUTION: DO NOT restart the pump until 2 hours after glueing the last connection.


Please Note:

Inyo Pool Products is not responsible for any injury or damaged equipment
while using our guides. Using our guides is doing so at your own risk.
These guides are suggested use of your pool or spa equipment and may vary
depending on which product you are using.