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How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

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Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you'll want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not difficult. Although this guide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have an electrician wire your pump for you. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.

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Step 1

To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump.

Click Here to View Hayward Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Pentair/Pac-Fab Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Sta-Rite Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Jacuzzi Pool Pump Motors

Step 2

Also, look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. If you need help determining the correct replacement motor for your pool pump, use the chat feature in the lower left corner of the screen or submit a ticket by clicking here. 

Step 3

We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 4

Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements

Step 5

As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections

Step 6

Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.

Step 7

Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 8

Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.

Step 9

Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.

Step 10

Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.

Step 11

Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.

Step 12

To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.

Step 13

Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.

Step 14

Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.

Step 15

Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.

Step 16

Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.

Step 17

Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow

Step 18

The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.

Step 19

Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.

Step 20

Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.

Step 21

To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.

Step 22

You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.

Step 23

Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.

Step 24

At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 25

Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.

Step 26

Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.

Step 27

Lift off the motor mounting plate.

Step 28

Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.

Step 29

You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.

Step 30

Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.

Step 31

Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.

Step 32

Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.

Step 33

Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 34

Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.

Step 35

Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.

Step 36

Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.

Step 37

Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.

Step 38

Replace capacitor.

Step 39

Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.

Step 40

Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.

Step 41

Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.

Step 42

Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.

Step 43

Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.

Step 44

Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.

Step 45

Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.

Step 46

Screw on electrical conduit collar.

Step 47

Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.

Step 48

Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.

Step 49

Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 50

Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.

Step 51

Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.

Step 52

Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.

Step 53

Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.

Step 54

Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.

Step 55

Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.

Click Here to View our Replacement Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View our Replacement Pool Pump Parts 

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(1 to 40 of 195)

 Posted: 4/12/2020 

My pump motor starts up just fine, runs at a normal rate for a while then starts spinning at a much higher rate. After a few seconds I smell something burning. I suspect that the impeller has a lot of resistance (due to clogged water lines?) and after a while the impeller is slipping on the motor shaft. I dismounted the motor from the housing. When I momentarily run the dismounted motor the impeller rotates as expected. But how can I tell if the impeller is firm on the shaft or slipping under load? Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/15/2020 

If you can unscrew the impeller from the motor shaft, the nut is not slipping from the impeller. When I have seen impellers fail, if the threads give out, the impeller is going to get loose and rumble around the inside of the pump.When the motor starts to make this noise, does water flow rate change? Do you see large air pockets in the pump's strainer lid?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/25/2020 

Thanks for your advice, Matt. After checking the impeller, I replaced the start capacitor but to no avail. I then replaced the motor and now I hear the sweet sound of gushing water. The original problem that I thought was a slipping impeller, was just due to a motor that was probably vibrating rather than spinning. :) Thanks! -Paul
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2020 

I just put my motor and pump back together that I purchased from you. I noticed that you did not say how tight to make the bolts. I tend to overdo things and the seal is leaking. Brand new seal and I put 'pool and spa' lube on it. Also, you give a pattern of how to tighten the bolts, but nowhere on this page can I find the bolts numbered to follow that pattern. Can you help me?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/21/2020 

The below picture is a good pattern to follow when tightening the bolts. Disregard the number mentioned in the step and follow the sequential pattern shown in the guide. As for how tight they need to be, you can hand tighten them, then a half-turn or two with a wrench should be enough.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/6/2020 

I have a HSQ165 Pump and the motor has the following specifications: HP = 1.65 SF = 1.00 Volts= 115/230 Amps = 18.8/9.4 It's louder and louder every week. My pool holds about 10,000 gallons of water. What do you recommend for a replacement?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/9/2020 

Hello, I typed the HSQ165 from your comment into our search at the top of the page and was provided two results, the HSQ165 or the ECM15SQU. The HSQ165 is the single-speed like for like replacement; the ECM16SQU is the variable speed replacement which costs more money but is more reliable, cost-efficient, and quieter when running at lower speeds.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/13/2020 

I have a Pentair Whisper Flo WF-28 motor that I like to replace, and like to find a quieter model. What do you suggest? 3 Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/13/2020 

The preferred replacement is the A.O. Smith V-Green 2.7 HP Square Flange 48Y Variable Speed Motor - ECM27SQU. To complete the motor installation, you will need the gasket kit for the Pentair WhisperFlo which is the GOKIT32 or GOKIT32SALT
 Reply

 Posted: 1/14/2020 

Will V-Green 1.65 HP work in my case? I need a really quiet motor.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2020 

As long as the total horsepower of the 1.6 matches your current total horsepower and you have 230 volts then yes it will work for your application. 
 Reply

 Posted: 1/15/2020 

Thanks for the reply. Just want to make sure before I place my order: the V-Green 1.65 HP works fine with my existing Pentair WF-28 which is 2.0 HP (60 hz 1PH kW). Any pros and cons that you can think of if compare with V-Green 2.7 HP?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2020 

The original Whisperflo WF28 has near a total horsepower of 2.2. With that said, the V Green 2.7 variable speed motor is the better fit. Your system may not need the entire 2.7 hp worth of strength however being able to dial the RPM's down still makes it a real good fit. 
 Reply

 Posted: 1/15/2020 

How about the noise level? The main reason for me to upgrade to a variable one is the noise. Will the V-Green 1.65 H run more quietly than the V-Green 2.7 HP overall (say at the same rpm)?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2020 

Unfortunately, none of the manufacturer specification data provides decibel levels of their motors running at certain rpm's. That may be something to request directly from Century A.O. Smith. Their number is 800-262-6484. 
 Reply

 Posted: 1/26/2020 

If I buy the V-Green 2.65 HP variable speed motor to replace the WhisperFlo 1.5 HP motor, do I need to change the impeller (#073129) to a bigger size (#073130 for 2HP or #073131 for 3HP)?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/10/2020 

The pump can likely be run effectively with the original impeller. But if you are aiming for higher gallons per minute at high speeds, then you will need to upgrade the impeller. I suggest the 2.5 HP impeller (073130); the 3 HP impeller would be a little to big for the 2.7 HP V-Green
 Reply

 Posted: 10/22/2019 

I replaced my 3/4 hp Century motor - SP3207Z1BE - with a B2852. I was not aware of the SF being 1.85 on the old motor and 1.25 on the new one. Needless to say, the pump was underpowered. Is there an alternative to replacing it with exactly the same motor? Can I use a pump with a higher HP and lower SF? Or one with a higher total HP? Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/5/2019 

Yes, you could go with a 1-Horsepower uprated motor. Or you could go with a similar 3/4 HP fullrated 3/4 HP Motor EE - Full Rate (B661, B2661). The total HP doesn't match exactly but the number is close enough for it to be negligible. 
 Reply

 Posted: 9/18/2019 

My pool pump works fine but my motor is making an awful noise and is hot to the touch. Pump model # is SP2605X7. Current pump is a UST1072, Model # C48J2N131C1C, 3/4 HP, SF 1.0, 3450 RPM, FR 56J, Volts 115/230 and AMPS 10.6/5.3. Is this the correct motor for my pump? and with it being hot and making that noise should it be replaced?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/26/2019 

Hello Shawn - Yes, the correct replacement would be motor model UST1072. Running hot is normal for the motors but the noise is a sign that the bearings are going bad. The motor will eventually stop working. It's hard to say how long it will run loud before quitting.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/6/2019 

My motor sounds fine but is leaking. Model SP2607X10. Will I need to replace it or just replace a gasket?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/7/2019 

If the motor is working fine, but a leak is present, replace the offending gasket.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/25/2019 

What replacement motor is for an A.O. Smith SP3207Z1BE, part 7-196235-24, Serial 257093M, FR Y56Y, Type CP, H/P 3/4, SP 1.85, Code E, RPM 3450, Volts 115/208-230,
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/30/2019 

The correct replacement for your Tristar is the Hayward Motor, 3/4hp Full Tristar 115/208-230v - SPX3207Z1BER.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/24/2019 

Can’t get my motor out after I removed all four bolts. It moves about 1/2” but won’t slide all the way out any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/26/2019 

Did you remove the impeller from the end of the motor shaft?
 Reply

 Posted: 6/13/2019 

What motor should I replece by Hayward SP2607X20 motor with and what gasket kit?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/14/2019 

Please verify the model number SP2607X20. The numbers in it contradict one another; it would either be 2607X10, or 2615X20.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/7/2019 

We did all this but can’t get it to prime....? Could a gasket be not sealed correctly?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/13/2019 

A lid o-ring would be the first gasket to check. If you have a cartridge or DE filter, I would use the air relief valve to clear any air in the system. How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime
 Reply

 Posted: 5/22/2019 

You are a lifesaver! And a money saver! The step by step directions with pictures made changing the motor to my pump seem easy! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
 Reply

 Posted: 4/6/2019 

April 6, 2019 Hello; What motor should I replace my motor with it was an A.O. Smith model # K48N2PA102A2 HP 2, SF 1.3 , RPM 3450? I would also like one that is more energy efficient. Thank You Adrianna
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/8/2019 

Hello Adrianna - the replacement motor is the B843 2 HP Square Flange 56Y Full Rate Energy Efficient Motor. If you want a more energy efficient motor then you would need to go with something like the ECM27SQU - V-Green Variable Speed 
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/4/2019 

a loud sound on a motor may be a bearing sound to identify place your fingers ontop of the motor and feel the motor casing. if it seems to rattle and the sound seems to align with the rattleing then you need a bearing replacement. unfortunately if the four bolts holding the motor together are rusted. you may need to replace the motor. the capacitor is also a cause of motor humming.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/14/2019 

Hi. I have a Magnetek Century Centurion motor, CAT B122, part # 8-164299-22, 1 H.P., type CX, volts 230/115, amps SF 7.2/14.4, HZ 60, SF 1.40, time Cont., Code J, Frame L56C, Form KJM, Serial BP1-113,1081 pool pump duty mount Horiz with vent holes down. Do you have a direct replacement for this pump motor ? Do you have an more efficient version available? Mine is connected to 115 volts. thanks Ron
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2019 

Hello Ron - The energy efficient option for the B122 is model B653.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/3/2019 

Hi. Are you able to offer a motor/pump package which uses the B653 motor? I only have 110 volt power available and need a total of 1.4 HP. thanks, Ron
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/4/2019 

Hello Ron - Can you provide the model number of your pump housing? The B653 can be mounted to a few pump housing, which have varying flow rates. If we know which particular housing you have, we can find a similar pump model replacement.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/4/2019 

Hi Matt S. The pump housing has P/N 351523. Below that the tag says "WTEND PMP RFP 590 .75F. serial no. 035139120003N. Basically, I want to replace our old motor/pump package that produces a total of 1.4 Hp and connects to 110V power. I want a more efficient motor than what we currently have which uses 14.4 amps. i have heard that motors which use a permanent magnet are much more efficient. My current motor is a Magnetek Century Centurion motor, CAT B122, part # 8-164299-22, 1 H.P., type CX, volts 230/115, amps SF 7.2/14.4, HZ 60, SF 1.40, time Cont., Code J, Frame L56C, Form KJM, Serial BP1-113,1081 pool pump duty mount Horiz with vent holes down.
 Reply
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