Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient and cheaper to run. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you may may want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not that difficult. Although this quide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If your are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.
To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump
Also look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. Please feel free to call INYOpools.com toll free at 1-877-372-6038 and one our friendly staff can help you determine the proper motor for your pool pump.
We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.
Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements
As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections
Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.
Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.
Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.
Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.
Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.
Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.
To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.
Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.
Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.
Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.
Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.
Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow
The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.
Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.
Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.
To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.
You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.
Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.
At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.
Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.
Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.
Lift off the motor mounting plate.
Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.
You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.
Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.
Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.
Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.
Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).
Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.
Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.
Replace capacitor.
Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.
Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.
Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.
Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.
Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.
Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.
Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.
Screw on electrical conduit collar.
Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.
Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.
Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.
Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.
Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.
Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.
Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.
Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.
Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.
Inyopools Posted: 05/11/2018 16:01 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Hello Cas - It would be best to have a qualified electrician check the job. It seems like a significant amount of leakage current to trip the breaker, unless it is a GFCI. Check to see if the light and pump motor are on the same circuit, and if the circuit has a GFCI. Does it trip immediately, or just when the light is on? Is the 20 amp breaker sufficient for the motor? The electrician should also have a device to check to see if there is leakage current from the motor.
Cas .. Posted: 05/11/2018 13:38 PM
The pump motor I just purchased runs perfect as long as I have the bonding wire disconnected, as soon as I connect the bonding wire it trips the breaker,, this bonding wire runs from the pool light to a bounding rod that's in the ground beside the pump motor and then to the motor itself,, the motor is on a double pole 20 amp breaker, that keeps tripping out ,, any ideas?
Inyopools Posted: 04/16/2018 13:41 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Hello Hui - There may be a wrench available for your pump lid. What is the make and model of your pump?
Hui Posted: 04/16/2018 10:09 AM
Hi, after replacing the motor, I try to run the system, but the water does not flow. I see that there is no water in the pump housing yet. So I try to open the lid strainer pot so that I can fill the pump housing with water. However, my lid strainer pot is extremely hard to open. I tried very hard with my hand but it can't be opened. I'm wondering if what I'm thinking and doing is correct? Any suggestions?
Inyopools Posted: 01/25/2018 17:47 PM Inyo Product Specialist
b-chex - About all I can suggest is to slide a long cold chisel under the motor to the screw to shear it off.
b-chex Posted: 01/23/2018 13:43 PM
I am attempting to replace my spa motor and wet end, but I've hit a snag. I can't get the existing motor unbolted from the floor of the spa enclosure. The four bolts that secure the motor's base down to the floor are completely rusted. I was able to break free the two bolts closest to the opening of the enclosure, but there is no room to work (or even see what is going on) behind the motor. Any tips on how to proceed with getting my old motor out?
Inyopools Posted: 09/25/2017 12:26 PM Inyo Product Specialist
FloridaDave - If your motor is making a loud screeching noise, its bearing may be going and it may be time for a new motor. However, for low water flow, check our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System" before you buy a new motor. Step 6, Clogged Impeller, is a common problem and is easy to fix.
FloridaDave Posted: 09/23/2017 2:43 AM
I have a question or maybe two. My pump is getting noisy and it only about 5 years old(when motor was last replaced) and the 'push' with a clean filter is minimal compared to a few years ago. Would this indicate a needed motor replacement? Also, for the longest time there has been air coming out of the pool returns but no bubbles in the skimmer. Could this be a bad seal between pump and motor or should I look further? All the retail places I ask want to sell me a variable speed pump instead of answers.
AUDIOMIND Posted: 09/02/2017 13:04 PM
Do you guys have a Facebook page? If not, you should. Just stopped by to say that your website is probably the single most helpful website on pools and pool maintenance that I have come across. Keep up the excellent work!
Inyopools Posted: 08/23/2017 9:07 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Jakoe - Thank you for your comments and we are sorry for our confusion. We will take another look at this guide and try to incorporate your comments. Also, you were correct. The GOKIT for a Hayward MaxFlo is GOKIT1.
Jakoe Posted: 08/22/2017 15:35 PM
PLEASE provide better instructions! I just changed out my motor and seals (GoKit1) on a Hayward MaxFlo. I HOPE it's ok? Problem is I had a broken washer laying inside the housing and the washer that came with the pump was a much smaller diameter. The instructions also need to include replacing the seal kit. I was flipping back and forth between instructions. Mark the parts and include diagram of how they fit. When I was carrying the pump in the house a old seal fell off, so I wasn't sure which side faced which direction. Though the seal that came with the GoKit looked very different than the one that was on pump and it didn't matter with the new seal. If looks different than older versions, say so!!! I debated whether or not I needed to run to the pool store, and decided to just use the one with the kit. Well, I touched the one seal (instructions called it a bearing? - not the ceramic one.) This one, too, looked different from the one that was on my pump. I only lubed the one seal per the instructions (I lubed the housing gasket, though no instructions), though you should state "DO NOT LUBE". Still not sure if I was supposed to or not. All-in-all I am running a new motor with no leaks, though pump sounds a tad rough when it first starts up, just for a second. Include better photos and make them model specific! Instructions didn't even mention the housing seal! Had to figure that one out myself. As a 56 yr. old female doing this for the first time, it would have been very easy if instructions and images were better and if took into account old broken parts that you don't know how they went on. Probably took me 2-3 hours, mainly because I was hunting for the right tools and re-reading instructions and thinking about if I should use the seals that looked different from the originals.
Inyopools Posted: 07/24/2017 17:45 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Lackey - If you actually measured the voltage at the pump and saw 124V on each line and your motor is configured for 240, it should run. Check that the shaft is not binding and that it rotates freely. Then I'd talk to whoever you bought the motor from about getting a replacement. If you bought it from us, call 407-834-2200 and talk to one of our service reps.
Lackey Posted: 07/23/2017 14:56 PM
I just purchased a new motor last week and it was shipped to me incredibly fast. I watched the video and did everything step by step but the motor did not run when I turned on the breaker plus the timer switch. I have 124 v coming from each wire and I'm not sure if that is the problem or not for the 230v. I called my electrician friend and he said I should be good. Is there any other trouble shooting solutions I can try?
Thanks
Anonymous Posted: 06/18/2017 13:33 PM
All of a sudden I became an electrician, plummer, handyman, investor, pool maintenance guy....so easy I saved about 500. Pinch a penny wanted $320 for the motor, $35 for the o ring set [not necessary], $180 installation and $80 to balance the water. I bought it from you for 150. tks.
Jr Posted: 06/13/2017 16:02 PM
Thanks so much for this great info and especially the photos. My 3/4 hp Hayward was humming. Tried several times to repair but could not open get to all the parts. UNTIL now. Thanks again.
Johnny km Posted: 05/17/2017 18:14 PM
Thanks great price on the pump motor, my second time in 10 years, I seem to have a bearing problem in this area. This motor is much quieter than previous one I like it. Thanks Johnny
TimR Posted: 05/15/2017 13:25 PM
Just finished installing my replacement pump today and wanted to thank you for both the product and your service! Great experience - from ordering through delivery. Great price! I really appreciated the videos and step-by-step instructions, made the job so much easier. Had a couple of questions during install, both answered quickly by knowledgeable staff. Will be using you for ALL my future pool needs. Thanks!
Inyopools Posted: 05/06/2017 12:29 PM Inyo Product Specialist
robert - Yes, in all but a fell cases, motors used in one manufacturer's pumps are the same as the other manufacturers'. It's the pump housings that are different.
robert Posted: 05/05/2017 8:04 AM
i have a pentiar whisperflo s/n 0395269140004t would the haywood work for me ??
hotrodmike Posted: 03/14/2017 16:00 PM
Just finished installing my new pump and wanted to comment. Ordering process was very easy. The price was great, even with the seal kit. Free shipping was a nice bonus too. The directions on this page made me feel confident to tackle this. It was a pretty straightforward install and now I have a brand new, and much quieter, pump motor running again. Thanks for a great experience.
Randy Posted: 03/03/2017 12:47 PM
Thank you so much for the help with my new pool motor. I asked for a replacement and was told which motor was correct. I ordered the new motor and received it in 3 days. I had to take the old motor to the pool store to verify 115v or 230v. It was not marked. Replaced with new motor and all is great. New motor is lots quieter.
Hermunc Posted: 02/28/2017 1:30 AM
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I disassembled the motor three weeks before getting the new one and needed this video to aid me in re-assembly.
jack Posted: 02/24/2017 20:47 PM
I hope you guys make a fortune cause you saved me one with the
motor replacement viideo
Inyopools Posted: 01/24/2017 11:05 AM Inyo Product Specialist
zamer - Thank you for your comment. You are correct. We should have mentioned the need to replace the motor shaft seal in the video. If we remake this video, we will add this in but until then we suggest looking at the step-by-step guide following the video. It does reference the need to replace the shaft seal and links to another guide to show you how to do it.
zamer Posted: 01/20/2017 5:46 AM
you mention one should change the shaft seals with a new motor but you do not show this in your video or mention it in the video.
Underground53 Posted: 12/20/2016 1:42 AM
Thanks for the great tutorial! Though i panicked when i didn't see the diffuser wear ring, because i skipped the disassembly steps, and missed the warning there! Still, awesome write up, thanks!!!
Inyopools Posted: 09/26/2016 10:26 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Matt - The newer motors have a knob on the left side of the wiring terminal that sets the voltage configuration for your motor. Turn the knob clockwise for 230V, counterclockwise for 115V as marked. If your motor is configured for 115V, check your incoming voltage. It should show 115V across the two leads (black and white).
Matt Posted: 09/22/2016 20:32 PM
I just installed the UST1102 to replace my pump motor that had failed. Original pump was wired to 115V with Black, White and Green wiring. I installed my new pump to match the 115V service. When I primed the pump and switched it on there was a lot of smoke from the electrical of the pump, which dissipated after about one minute.However, the junction boxes leading to the pump started to smoke as well. Water did flow to the filter and out of the discharges normally. Is it possible the the wiring is in-fact 230V?
Inyopools Posted: 09/20/2016 14:29 PM Inyo Product Specialist
new motor hums - Humming is usually an indication of a failed start capacitor. If you bought the motor from us, talk to one of our sales reps at 877-372-6038 about replacing the motor. First, check to make sure the motor is wired correctly and that the motor is configured to match the supply voltage. Also, confirm that the motor shaft rotates freely.
Anonymous Posted: 09/19/2016 14:32 PM
Just put in new motor and it turns on and makes a humming sound but doesn't turn
Inyopools Posted: 08/02/2016 13:18 PM Inyo Product Specialist
William - You are correct, we always recommend replacing the shaft seal, and as long as the motor is out we recommend replacing the gaskets also. This should have been stated in the guide.
William Posted: 08/02/2016 8:56 AM
Did I miss something or did you guys choose to not replace any gaskets or seals in your video and if so, why not?
Thanks,
William
Inyopools Posted: 05/31/2016 9:53 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Jack - Try pouring some vinegar over the housing seal. Then tap around the seal with a rubber mallet. And finally, tap the end of the motor to try to break it free.
Jack Posted: 05/28/2016 11:06 AM
I can't remove the pump motor from the pump housing. The nuts came off fine but it looks like the motor is sealed with calcium deposit thru the bolt holes and around the seal. Any suggestions?
Inyopools Posted: 05/04/2016 12:09 PM Inyo Product Specialist
tim - I would take the motor out again and reset the shaft seal. Sounds like you may have an alinement issue.
tim Posted: 05/02/2016 9:09 AM
Thanks for instructions. I just changed mine yesterday. All seems good, except when I start pool pump , it just soumds rather loud with a slight whine( not sure if its just because im used to my old motors noise)
no leaks or anything by gaskets
was wondering if i should take off motor again and inspect everything and see if that might help
any info would help
thanks
tim
big joe mcc Posted: 05/01/2016 14:47 PM
I cant thank you enough! For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to detach the motor from the housing. Thank you Thank you Thank you ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Joe
Inyopools Posted: 04/18/2016 14:26 PM Inyo Product Specialist
John - Check to make sure your incoming voltage is 115 and not 230. If it is, the motor should be covered by warranty. If you bought it from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038.
Inyopools Posted: 04/18/2016 12:20 PM Inyo Product Specialist
motor ID - I couldn't find anything on the Sta Rite numbers you gave me. There should be a part number stamped into the impeller. See our guide on "How to identify your Pool Motor without the label" for more information.
John Posted: 04/16/2016 20:53 PM
I installed new motor, primed and pumped great for 10 min. Then "pop" blew capacitor and one of the yellow leads to the capacitor was burnt in half. I switched the setting from 230 to 115 because that's the way the old was wired. Replaced that one myself about 10 years ago