Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient and cheaper to run. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you may may want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not that difficult. Although this quide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If your are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.
To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump
Also look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. Please feel free to call INYOpools.com toll free at 1-877-372-6038 and one our friendly staff can help you determine the proper motor for your pool pump.
We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.
Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements
As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections
Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.
Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.
Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.
Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.
Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.
Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.
To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.
Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.
Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.
Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.
Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.
Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow
The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.
Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.
Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.
To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.
You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.
Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.
At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.
Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.
Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.
Lift off the motor mounting plate.
Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.
You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.
Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.
Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.
Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.
Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).
Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.
Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.
Replace capacitor.
Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.
Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.
Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.
Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.
Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.
Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.
Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.
Screw on electrical conduit collar.
Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.
Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.
Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.
Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.
Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.
Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.
Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.
Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.
Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.
Inyopools Posted: 09/26/2016 10:26 AM Latest Inyo Product Specialist
Matt - The newer motors have a knob on the left side of the wiring terminal that sets the voltage configuration for your motor. Turn the knob clockwise for 230V, counterclockwise for 115V as marked. If your motor is configured for 115V, check your incoming voltage. It should show 115V across the two leads (black and white).
Matt Posted: 09/22/2016 20:32 PM
I just installed the UST1102 to replace my pump motor that had failed. Original pump was wired to 115V with Black, White and Green wiring. I installed my new pump to match the 115V service. When I primed the pump and switched it on there was a lot of smoke from the electrical of the pump, which dissipated after about one minute.However, the junction boxes leading to the pump started to smoke as well. Water did flow to the filter and out of the discharges normally. Is it possible the the wiring is in-fact 230V?
Inyopools Posted: 09/20/2016 14:29 PM Inyo Product Specialist
new motor hums - Humming is usually an indication of a failed start capacitor. If you bought the motor from us, talk to one of our sales reps at 877-372-6038 about replacing the motor. First, check to make sure the motor is wired correctly and that the motor is configured to match the supply voltage. Also, confirm that the motor shaft rotates freely.
Anonymous Posted: 09/19/2016 14:32 PM
Just put in new motor and it turns on and makes a humming sound but doesn't turn
Inyopools Posted: 08/02/2016 13:18 PM Inyo Product Specialist
William - You are correct, we always recommend replacing the shaft seal, and as long as the motor is out we recommend replacing the gaskets also. This should have been stated in the guide.
William Posted: 08/02/2016 8:56 AM
Did I miss something or did you guys choose to not replace any gaskets or seals in your video and if so, why not?
Thanks,
William
Inyopools Posted: 05/31/2016 9:53 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Jack - Try pouring some vinegar over the housing seal. Then tap around the seal with a rubber mallet. And finally, tap the end of the motor to try to break it free.
Jack Posted: 05/28/2016 11:06 AM
I can't remove the pump motor from the pump housing. The nuts came off fine but it looks like the motor is sealed with calcium deposit thru the bolt holes and around the seal. Any suggestions?
Inyopools Posted: 05/04/2016 12:09 PM Inyo Product Specialist
tim - I would take the motor out again and reset the shaft seal. Sounds like you may have an alinement issue.
tim Posted: 05/02/2016 9:09 AM
Thanks for instructions. I just changed mine yesterday. All seems good, except when I start pool pump , it just soumds rather loud with a slight whine( not sure if its just because im used to my old motors noise)
no leaks or anything by gaskets
was wondering if i should take off motor again and inspect everything and see if that might help
any info would help
thanks
tim
big joe mcc Posted: 05/01/2016 14:47 PM
I cant thank you enough! For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to detach the motor from the housing. Thank you Thank you Thank you ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Joe
Inyopools Posted: 04/18/2016 14:26 PM Inyo Product Specialist
John - Check to make sure your incoming voltage is 115 and not 230. If it is, the motor should be covered by warranty. If you bought it from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038.
Inyopools Posted: 04/18/2016 12:20 PM Inyo Product Specialist
motor ID - I couldn't find anything on the Sta Rite numbers you gave me. There should be a part number stamped into the impeller. See our guide on "How to identify your Pool Motor without the label" for more information.
John Posted: 04/16/2016 20:53 PM
I installed new motor, primed and pumped great for 10 min. Then "pop" blew capacitor and one of the yellow leads to the capacitor was burnt in half. I switched the setting from 230 to 115 because that's the way the old was wired. Replaced that one myself about 10 years ago
Anonymous Posted: 04/15/2016 21:55 PM
Hello and Thanks for the great video and step by step for replacing the motor; I was in middle of doing just that and was having problem figuring out how to get Inpelor off and then found your site and instruction guide. Thanks so much.. I was curious if you might know where i could find out exactly what motor it is that I have because all the labels are gone off pump and motor except stamped tag on the pump housing indicating Sta-Rite Model P456E-151L Code: 1F93M Waterford, WI I am not sure how to find out which motor it is so i can find replacement. Any suggestions you might have are greatly appreciated.. Thanks again for great guide..
Inyopools Posted: 02/29/2016 11:11 AM Inyo Product Specialist
no flow - If the pump will not prime, see our guide on " How To Prime a Pool Pump". If you are not getting sufficient flow, see our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Also, check to make sure you installed the impeller correctly when you replaced the motor.
Anonymous Posted: 02/28/2016 16:42 PM
Installed motor seems to be running okay but does not pump water
Inyopools Posted: 02/02/2016 10:16 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Vince - Look at steps 8, 9, and 16 on our guide for "How To Install an In-Line Salt Chlorine Generator". It's specifically for installing a SCG but the voltage measurement and power hookup is the same for a pump motor. The output lines on the timer are actually going to both the SCG and the pump. See our guide on "How To Replace an Intermatic T104 Clock Motor" for information on the timer motor. It sounds like you already know but the T104 is for 220V and the T101 is for 110V.
Vince Posted: 01/31/2016 8:24 AM
Had pool pump motor replaced by pool service people. Now timer no longer works. Intermatic 104 timer is not grounded and not wired to schematic. There is no 110V connection at terminal 4 which makes me believe the replacement motor is wired 115V. How can I validate voltage and how can I test 208V clock motor for functionality? Service is 220V (single phase) with FPL priority switch in the circuit. Thank you in advance for your advice. Vince
Inyopools Posted: 01/05/2016 15:28 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Callie Marie - You might try it yourself first and if you get stuck have a professional come in and fix it. If you haven't worked with electricity before, you might better have a professional do it or have an electrician check it after you are done.
Callie Marie Posted: 01/04/2016 23:22 PM
Thanks for the great guide for replacing the motor in my pump! It hasn't been working properly for weeks, and I have determined that it is most likely due to the motor. Even though you provide detailed step-by-step pictures, I'm still nervous about doing it myself. Would it be worth it to hire a professional to actually come and install the motor for me?
Inyopools Posted: 08/28/2015 23:27 PM Inyo Product Specialist
motor on/off - It sounds like the supply voltage to your motor does not match the motor's voltage configuration. Change the motor's voltage configuration.
Anonymous Posted: 08/27/2015 10:41 AM
208 V
HP 1.25
PH 1
RPM 3450
FR 48Y- I need a motor with these specs. It's to replace a whisperflo square flange motor. The one that's on thee now turns on and turns off. It continues to do that all day. The motor was just replaced 5 days ago. Can you please help... Thanks!
Inyopools Posted: 08/17/2015 9:58 AM Inyo Product Specialist
dj - If the only thing you changed in your system was replacing the motor, I would concentrate on the pump. If your filter worked before the motor change, it should be working now. Same for suction leaks. Those would be a typical source of your problems, but I assume you didn't change anything on the suction side of the pump when you replaced the motor. I would take the motor out again and check that the impeller and diffuser are in place correctly and that the diffuser gasket in also in place.
Anonymous Posted: 08/16/2015 11:49 AM
connected new Hayward motor turned it on but can't get it to backwash or return was told to bleed air tried for hrs but no result what can I do
Inyopools Posted: 08/03/2015 9:46 AM Inyo Product Specialist
smoke - Some part of your motor's electrical system is failing or has failed. Take the electrical cover off of the back of the motor and look for burn marks around the electrical components or wiring. It could also mean shorts in the motor windings. When a motor smokes, it's probably time to replace it.
Anonymous Posted: 08/01/2015 19:17 PM
Why would motor smoke?
Jim M. Posted: 07/29/2015 16:55 PM
Excellent instructions for replacing a pool motor. I will tell everyone I know who has a pool about your website. My only regret is I didn't find your website sooner. I've had my pool about 15 years.
secret squirrel in va Posted: 07/18/2015 19:12 PM
Excellent instructions!! I wish all the "How Tos" on the web were as good as this. I have just replaced my pool pump for the second time - lightning zapped it this time - using these instruction and it was a breeze/ Bought the replacement pump today (with seals/gasket set) and four hours later the pump is running again. Thank you very much. My only comment is that I had to use a smaller wrench than 7/16ths to lock the motor shaft.
Inyopool Posted: 06/30/2015 14:18 PM
Jay - See our guide on "How To Install an Intermatic T104 Timer". Step #14 shows you how to hook up the "Lines" into the timer and Step #20 shows you how to hook up the "Loads" to the pump.
Jay Posted: 06/29/2015 14:51 PM
In hooking up a motor to the timer...the motor has three wires, green for ground, and two red leads to be hooked up to the timer. The timer has 5 terminals, 1 for common, Line 1, Load 1, Line 2 and Load 2. I want to hook up my two red leads to the timer. Where do they go? Line 1 and Line 2 ? Or What are the two Load lines for? Please elaborate for me.
Jay Posted: 06/29/2015 14:25 PM
I am replacing the motor and noticed a red wire from a micro switch from the top side of the timer came off the terminal...My problem is i don't know which lead it came off from? One is still on a terminal but other is just hanging close by...Which lead would it connect to?
Does it matter which red wire goes to whatever terminal on the timer? The motor has three wires to connect...green for ground, red hot and other red for hot...do the red wired connect to Line 1, and Line 2? on the clock terminal? or does it matter?
Inyopools Posted: 06/22/2015 16:22 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Gill - Two possibilities: Can you replace the bonding lug? - unscrew the old one off the motor or relocated it to another hole on the motor. Or is there enough of a stub of wire where it was cut off that you could clamp the bonding wire on to with a split bolt. See "How To Add a Line to the Pool Bonding Wire".
Gill Posted: 06/22/2015 14:06 PM
This seems pretty straightforward, the pictures help greatly. One thing I noticed, the bonding lug on my pump is rusted up tight (WD-40 was useless). I was able to cut the bonding wire very close to the bonding lug in order to get it worked on, but a a piece of the wire is now stuck in the lug. How would you recommend safely reconnecting?
Inyopools Posted: 05/17/2015 12:15 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Rob - See Step 30 of our guide on "How to Replace a Single Speed Motor with a 2Green Motor". One wire will go to L1, the other to L2.
Rob Posted: 05/15/2015 19:38 PM
Hi, replacing my motor with the 2Green 2 speed. I had a single speed motor with all the same specs as the new one. My old motor had the red wire hooked up to the A terminal and the black wire hooked to the B terminal. This new motor has an A terminal, L1 and L2. Does the red wire go to A and the black to either L1 or L2?
Thanks, Rob
Anonymous Posted: 05/12/2015 21:22 PM
Thx much. Your video saved the day.
Inyopools Posted: 05/05/2015 11:54 AM Inyo Product Specialist
beachin - Not sure why this isn't fitting. Both motors have the same frame, 56J, and we show the new motor being ~1/3 of an inch shorter. old SP1610Z1 = 13.35 and new B2977 = 13.03. Incidentally, your new motor is a 2-speed and the recommended equivalent 2-speed motor for this Hayward Northstar pump is SPX1610Z2MNS.
beachin Posted: 05/05/2015 1:03 AM
I am replacing a B2977 motor on Hayward Sp4010NS from a SP1610Z1. The new motor is longer and having trouble getting it to go into the motor assembly. It won't fit. Any help please... Thanks
erik Posted: 05/03/2015 19:14 PM
Bought my motor last fall when the other one died and finally got around to replacing it once all the snow melted. Followed these instructions and had no problems. It was nice to have the gasket and seal kit that was recommended. Total time to replace and turn on was 2-3 hours. Thanks.