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How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

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Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient and cheaper to run. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you may may want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not that difficult. Although this quide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If your are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.



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Step 1

To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump

Step 2

Also look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. Please feel free to call INYOpools.com toll free at 1-877-372-6038 and one our friendly staff can help you determine the proper motor for your pool pump.

Step 3

We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 4

Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements

Step 5

As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections

Step 6

Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.

Step 7

Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 8

Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.

Step 9

Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.

Step 10

Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.

Step 11

Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.

Step 12

To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.

Step 13

Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.

Step 14

Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.

Step 15

Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.

Step 16

Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.

Step 17

Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow

Step 18

The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.

Step 19

Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.

Step 20

Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.

Step 21

To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.

Step 22

You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.

Step 23

Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.

Step 24

At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 25

Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.

Step 26

Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.

Step 27

Lift off the motor mounting plate.

Step 28

Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.

Step 29

You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.

Step 30

Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.

Step 31

Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.

Step 32

Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.

Step 33

Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 34

Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.

Step 35

Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.

Step 36

Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.

Step 37

Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.

Step 38

Replace capacitor.

Step 39

Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.

Step 40

Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.

Step 41

Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.

Step 42

Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.

Step 43

Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.

Step 44

Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.

Step 45

Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.

Step 46

Screw on electrical conduit collar.

Step 47

Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.

Step 48

Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.

Step 49

Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 50

Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.

Step 51

Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.

Step 52

Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.

Step 53

Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.

Step 54

Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.

Step 55

Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.

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(1 to 40 of 159)

 Posted: 1/14/2019 

Hi. I have a Magnetek Century Centurion motor, CAT B122, part # 8-164299-22, 1 H.P., type CX, volts 230/115, amps SF 7.2/14.4, HZ 60, SF 1.40, time Cont., Code J, Frame L56C, Form KJM, Serial BP1-113,1081 pool pump duty mount Horiz with vent holes down. Do you have a direct replacement for this pump motor ? Do you have an more efficient version available? Mine is connected to 115 volts. thanks Ron
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2019 

Hello Ron - The energy efficient option for the B122 is model B653.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/3/2019 

Hi. Are you able to offer a motor/pump package which uses the B653 motor? I only have 110 volt power available and need a total of 1.4 HP. thanks, Ron
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/4/2019 

Hello Ron - Can you provide the model number of your pump housing? The B653 can be mounted to a few pump housing, which have varying flow rates. If we know which particular housing you have, we can find a similar pump model replacement.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/4/2019 

Hi Matt S. The pump housing has P/N 351523. Below that the tag says "WTEND PMP RFP 590 .75F. serial no. 035139120003N. Basically, I want to replace our old motor/pump package that produces a total of 1.4 Hp and connects to 110V power. I want a more efficient motor than what we currently have which uses 14.4 amps. i have heard that motors which use a permanent magnet are much more efficient. My current motor is a Magnetek Century Centurion motor, CAT B122, part # 8-164299-22, 1 H.P., type CX, volts 230/115, amps SF 7.2/14.4, HZ 60, SF 1.40, time Cont., Code J, Frame L56C, Form KJM, Serial BP1-113,1081 pool pump duty mount Horiz with vent holes down.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/6/2019 

Because your motor has a keyed shaft, the standard variable speed replacement motors available would not match up. All new pumps used a threaded shaft which would not align correctly for your Pentair Hydropump.
 Reply

 Posted: 12/7/2018 

Great instructions - thank you! My motor's bearing sounds like it's seen better days so it's time to replace it. I have a Hayward RS750 pump with A.O.Smith model K48K2N104, 3/4 hp, SF 1.5, RPM 3450, Amps 13.0/6.5, 115/230 volts, single phase. Which pump is a direct replacement for this? I'm hoping to replace with one even more energy efficient. Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/7/2018 

Hello Greg - The replacement motor for your pool pump is model CT1072
 Reply

 Posted: 10/19/2018 

My motor is extremely loud and running very hot, are these signs that it may be time for a replacement?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/19/2018 

Hi Bill, Yes these are telltale signs that your motor needs to be replaced. Do you know the make and model of your pump as well as the HP, SF, Volts, and Amps? If you can supply us with this information then we can make the proper recommendation for a replacement.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/19/2018 

I have a Hayward 1.5 HP Super II Pump and the motor has the following specifications... HP = 1.5, SF = 1, Volts= 115V/230V and Amps = 18.6/9.3
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/19/2018 

You will require the UST1152 Replacement Motor and the Hayward Super II Tune Up Kit.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/6/2018 

I have a 1 HP Hayward Super II pump which needs the motor to be replaced. Do you know which motor I require?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/6/2018 

Hi Patrick, Could you let us know the service factor of your motor this will be listed as value under the SF heading on your motor label.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/6/2018 

Here is my motor information... Volts: 115/230v, HP: 1, Amps: 15.0/7.5, SF: 1.1, RPM: 3450, Frame: 56J
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/6/2018 

Thank you Patrick that information is quite helpful. You will require a UST1102 1 HP Replacement Motor and GOKIT2 Hayward Super II Tune Up Kit.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/14/2018 

Hello Keith - By normal sound, a louder humming sound? If so, that could be a bad phasing. The motor may begin to trip the breaker if the problem persists. The end result would would be replacing the motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/13/2018 

1HP max-e-pro, My pump isn't making a screeching sound, it's just gotten a LOT louder with the normal sound it makes. Do I need a new motor, or seal replacement? any ideas? thx!
 Reply

 Posted: 10/6/2018 

We would suggest replacing the motor as well as a seal replacement. Could you give us the following information off your motor label so we may suggest the proper replacement (amps, volts, HP and SF)?
 Reply

 Posted: 8/8/2018 

Hello Dave - First I would check that the motor is set to the correct voltage. Dual voltage motors are shipped from the factory set to 230 volts. If you have a 115-volt power source, the motor will not have enough juice to get to speed. Also, make sure that you are replacing like for like. A common mistake is that homeowners will try to replace 1HP fullrate with a 1HP uprate motor. Though the horsepowers are the same, the service factor ratings are different, meaning the fullrated is the more powerful motor and likely is paired with a larger impeller. The larger impeller puts more drag on the motor, and the smaller 1HP uprate motor can't spin the impeller.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/8/2018 

i just replaced a motor. impeller wasnt turning very well when i installed brand new motor. not sure why. after wiring in, got humming noise but impeller would not spin. why? i put new shaft seal also
 Reply

 Posted: 7/23/2018 

Very pleased I found this company pool site. Your videos and repair instructions are great. I have been looking on youtube and other sites for two weeks for complete info on pump and motor repairs. You are the best.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/15/2018 

I'm guessing you could save a couple dollars and by the motor on ebay, but the videos and customer service of this site are worth paying for, 100%. Thanks guys for this incredible resource for DIY pool owners.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/23/2018 

Decided to buy and install this motor for my pool pump. Instructions were great! Thanks for all the pictures and details. I was up and running in 90 minutes. Saved me $300 over local service provider.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/8/2018 

Hello Kam - There is a chance you replaced a full rated motor with an uprated version. Does the HP and SF rating match the original motor?
 Reply

 Posted: 6/7/2018 

Just installed a new Hayward motor. Runs fine by itself then when it is hooked to the rest of the pump and bolted in and does not run.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/11/2018 

Hello Cas - It would be best to have a qualified electrician check the job. It seems like a significant amount of leakage current to trip the breaker, unless it is a GFCI. Check to see if the light and pump motor are on the same circuit, and if the circuit has a GFCI. Does it trip immediately, or just when the light is on? Is the 20 amp breaker sufficient for the motor? The electrician should also have a device to check to see if there is leakage current from the motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/11/2018 

The pump motor I just purchased runs perfect as long as I have the bonding wire disconnected, as soon as I connect the bonding wire it trips the breaker,, this bonding wire runs from the pool light to a bounding rod that's in the ground beside the pump motor and then to the motor itself,, the motor is on a double pole 20 amp breaker, that keeps tripping out ,, any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/16/2018 

Hello Hui - There may be a wrench available for your pump lid. What is the make and model of your pump?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/16/2018 

Hi, after replacing the motor, I try to run the system, but the water does not flow. I see that there is no water in the pump housing yet. So I try to open the lid strainer pot so that I can fill the pump housing with water. However, my lid strainer pot is extremely hard to open. I tried very hard with my hand but it can't be opened. I'm wondering if what I'm thinking and doing is correct? Any suggestions?
 Reply

 Posted: 1/25/2018 

b-chex - About all I can suggest is to slide a long cold chisel under the motor to the screw to shear it off.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/23/2018 

I am attempting to replace my spa motor and wet end, but I've hit a snag. I can't get the existing motor unbolted from the floor of the spa enclosure. The four bolts that secure the motor's base down to the floor are completely rusted. I was able to break free the two bolts closest to the opening of the enclosure, but there is no room to work (or even see what is going on) behind the motor. Any tips on how to proceed with getting my old motor out?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/25/2017 

FloridaDave - If your motor is making a loud screeching noise, its bearing may be going and it may be time for a new motor. However, for low water flow, check our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System" before you buy a new motor. Step 6, Clogged Impeller, is a common problem and is easy to fix.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/23/2017 

I have a question or maybe two. My pump is getting noisy and it only about 5 years old(when motor was last replaced) and the 'push' with a clean filter is minimal compared to a few years ago. Would this indicate a needed motor replacement? Also, for the longest time there has been air coming out of the pool returns but no bubbles in the skimmer. Could this be a bad seal between pump and motor or should I look further? All the retail places I ask want to sell me a variable speed pump instead of answers.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/2/2017 

Do you guys have a Facebook page? If not, you should. Just stopped by to say that your website is probably the single most helpful website on pools and pool maintenance that I have come across. Keep up the excellent work!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/23/2017 

Jakoe - Thank you for your comments and we are sorry for our confusion. We will take another look at this guide and try to incorporate your comments. Also, you were correct. The GOKIT for a Hayward MaxFlo is GOKIT1.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/22/2017 

PLEASE provide better instructions! I just changed out my motor and seals (GoKit1) on a Hayward MaxFlo. I HOPE it's ok? Problem is I had a broken washer laying inside the housing and the washer that came with the pump was a much smaller diameter. The instructions also need to include replacing the seal kit. I was flipping back and forth between instructions. Mark the parts and include diagram of how they fit. When I was carrying the pump in the house a old seal fell off, so I wasn't sure which side faced which direction. Though the seal that came with the GoKit looked very different than the one that was on pump and it didn't matter with the new seal. If looks different than older versions, say so!!! I debated whether or not I needed to run to the pool store, and decided to just use the one with the kit. Well, I touched the one seal (instructions called it a bearing? - not the ceramic one.) This one, too, looked different from the one that was on my pump. I only lubed the one seal per the instructions (I lubed the housing gasket, though no instructions), though you should state "DO NOT LUBE". Still not sure if I was supposed to or not. All-in-all I am running a new motor with no leaks, though pump sounds a tad rough when it first starts up, just for a second. Include better photos and make them model specific! Instructions didn't even mention the housing seal! Had to figure that one out myself. As a 56 yr. old female doing this for the first time, it would have been very easy if instructions and images were better and if took into account old broken parts that you don't know how they went on. Probably took me 2-3 hours, mainly because I was hunting for the right tools and re-reading instructions and thinking about if I should use the seals that looked different from the originals.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/24/2017 

Lackey - If you actually measured the voltage at the pump and saw 124V on each line and your motor is configured for 240, it should run. Check that the shaft is not binding and that it rotates freely. Then I'd talk to whoever you bought the motor from about getting a replacement. If you bought it from us, call 407-834-2200 and talk to one of our service reps.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/23/2017 

I just purchased a new motor last week and it was shipped to me incredibly fast. I watched the video and did everything step by step but the motor did not run when I turned on the breaker plus the timer switch. I have 124 v coming from each wire and I'm not sure if that is the problem or not for the 230v. I called my electrician friend and he said I should be good. Is there any other trouble shooting solutions I can try?

Thanks
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/18/2017 

All of a sudden I became an electrician, plummer, handyman, investor, pool maintenance guy....so easy I saved about 500. Pinch a penny wanted $320 for the motor, $35 for the o ring set [not necessary], $180 installation and $80 to balance the water. I bought it from you for 150. tks.
 Reply
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