Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient and cheaper to run. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you may may want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not that difficult. Although this quide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If your are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.
Tips & Warnings
Step by Step
To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump
Also look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. Please feel free to call INYOpools.com toll free at 1-877-372-6038 and one our friendly staff can help you determine the proper motor for your pool pump.
We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.
Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements
As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections
Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.
Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.
Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.
Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.
Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.
Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.
To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.
Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.
Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.
Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.
Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.
Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow
The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.
Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.
Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.
To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.
You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.
Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.
At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.
Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.
Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.
Lift off the motor mounting plate.
Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.
You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.
Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.
Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.
Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.
Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).
Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.
Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.
Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.
Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.
Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.
Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.
Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.
Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.
Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.
Screw on electrical conduit collar.
Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.
Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.
Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.
Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.
Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.
Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.
Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.
Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.
Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.
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Tips & Warnings
DO NOT touch the ceramic faces of the motor shaft seal with your fingers ; Your oil may cause the seal surface to burn and leak.
Short out capacitor before handling to avoid shock.
Remember to turn off power to the motor at the circuit breaker prior to working of the motor pump.
Inyo Pool Products is not responsible for any injury or damaged equipment
while using our guides. Using our guides is doing so at your own risk.
These guides are suggested use of your pool or spa equipment and may vary
depending on which product you are using.