How To Maintain a Salt Water Pool

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There are many benefits to operating a salt water pool. The benefits include softer water, lower cost of operation, and no chloramines. Many people believe that a salt water pool will be maintenance free. Although there is less maintenance required with a salt water system, there are still necessary steps required to maintain a stable pool.

Things You'll Need

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Step 1

Weekly, test the pool water for Free Chlorine and pH. The water can be tested using test strips or by a drop test kit. The Free Chlorine level should be 1-3 ppm. The chlorine can be adjusted by the output control on the control box or cell. The pH should be maintained at 7.2-7.6. The pH can be lowered with muriatic acid or raised with soda ash or sodium bicarbonate. Please review your owner's manual for specific ideal levels.

Step 2

Monthly, test the pool water for Salt, Alkalinity, Stabilizer, and Calcium. The water can be tested using test strips or by a drop test kit. Please review your owner's manual for specific ideal levels and make adjustments accordingly. Note: Most salt chlorinators will display a salt reading. However, it is a good practice to test the salt yourself in case the salt chlorinator needs to be recalibrated.

Step 3

To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that you open and visually inspect the cell every 3 months. Most salt chlorinators will remind you to do this by a flashing "Inspect Cell" light on the control box. Once removed, inspect the inside of the cell for scale build up or any debris that may have bypassed the filter. If no deposits are visable, reinstall. If deposits are seen, use a high pressure garden hose and try to flush the scale off. If this is not successful, use a plastic or wood tool (do not use metal as this will scratch the coating off the plates) and scrape deposits off of plates. If flushing and scraping are unsuccessful, a mild acid wash will be required. Please refer to your owner's manual for specific instructions. Most manufacturers suggest a 4:1 ratio of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of acid). Always add acid to water and never water to acid. Pour the solution into a container to a level where the solution will reach the top of the cell but not the cable (some cables can be removed from the cell). The cell should soak for a few minutes and then rinsed off with a garden hose. Reinstall cell once it is cleaned.

Step 4

Keep the filter, pump, and skimmer clean. The water flow will be reduced if the filter, pump, or skimmer is full of debris. If the water flow is reduced significantly, the salt chlorinator will stop generating chlorine.

Step 5

To winterize the salt chlorinator, most manufactures recommend that the flow switch and salt cell be removed from the plumbing and stored inside out of the elements. There are dummy cells available that can go in place of the real salt cell during the winter months. The control box can withstand freezing temperatures and can remain installed. For warmer climates, where winterizing is not necessary, run the pump continuosly if a freeze is expected.

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(1 to 40 of 109)

 Posted: 6/13/2019 

We just put our 18 ft pool up yesterday we added shock and chlorine to the pool bc it is super green! But now considering switching to salt water. How many bags of salt would i need. And also what is the maintaince required for a salt water pool?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/13/2019 

The amount of salt depends on the required salinity level for your salt system, and the starting salinity level of your water. Generally, it is a few hundred pounds of salt. Give this  a look: Swimming Pool Salt Calculator
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 Posted: 5/20/2019 

We are new to salt water pools. My husband was so excited to put salt in, he didn’t check levels. So no shocking was done. Our pool is 18 x 36 and we added 16 bags of salt. Our readings are 3800 and I have the output set at 20. I feel the 3800 is high, what should normal readings be? Do I have to add more water to bring down? Also was told I needed to add pepper, is that right? Please help me!
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2019 

To lower the salt level, drain a portion of the water, then add in fresh water. But before you drain the water, look at your salt system's manual to determine the salt range it operates in. If the control's high salt light is not on, and the cell is producing chlorine, it is probably ok to leave the water as is.
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 Posted: 5/19/2019 

What is the recommended water temperature for salt systems to perform efficiently?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2019 

The most common of the salt systems, the AquaRite has an operational range of 50 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the water within the 70-90 degree range, which is standard for most pools, and you will be doing fine.
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 Posted: 5/10/2019 

I am opening my salt water above ground pool for the season right now. I have reconnected the pump/filter system and raised the water level up to where it should be. With a salt water system, do I have to shock it, or just add more salt?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/13/2019 

I would add a bag or two of shock to boost the chlorine level to help the cell during startup.
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 Posted: 1/17/2019 

My salt water pool us green why it happened over a couple of days
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/17/2019 

Hello Ben - There could be several reasons why your salt pool turned green. The salt cell might need to be cleaned or replaced. The water flow could have decreased so much that the flow switch turned the salt system off. Your cyanuric acid level or salt level could be low. You'll have to start looking at all these possibilities until you find the root cause.
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 Posted: 10/1/2018 

Hello Ted - You can run the pump 24/7 but I'd recommend getting a pool timer with freeze protection. A freeze protection timer will turn the pump on automatically whenever the temperature approaches freezing levels.
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 Posted: 10/10/2018 

Having a hard time getting salt regulated. It’s either too low or too high.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/10/2018 

Hello Linda - salt levels should remain relatively stable unless you are experiencing heavy rainfall, backwashing repeatedly, or had a lot of swimmers. I would get the water tested by a local pool company for free to confirm the salinity level. Then add salt or dilute with fresh water as needed.
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 Posted: 9/30/2018 

I live in northeastern North Carolina where it does get below freezing in the winter. Last year my pool actually froze. My pool guy has advised us to leave the pump on throughout the winter. Is this good advice?
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 Posted: 9/5/2018 

Hello Linda - it is completely fine to shock your saltwater pool. You may also want to run a Super-Chlorinate cycle during your shock treatment for an extra boost. Every little bit of chlorine helps.
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 Posted: 9/2/2018 

We converted to a salt water system over 2 months ago (and love it). It's now September in GA and even tho the water temp didn't reach 90, we're starting to see some algae. We keep the pump running most of the time. I poured in a little algaecide but it didn't seem to make any difference. Is it OK to shock it? We're still learning the differences in salt vs chlorine maintenance. Thx for any advice.
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 Posted: 1/31/2019 

Linda, If you are getting some green algea and everything else check out okay then it may be your phosphates are getting high.
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 Posted: 6/7/2018 

Hello Renita - There isn't a preferred sun screen for salt water pools. You can add a new tennis ball to the skimmer to help absorb some of the sun screen oil.
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 Posted: 6/5/2018 

Question I have a Heated Salt water pool I live in AZ and I want to put on sun screen what kind do you recommend that will not harm my system?
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 Posted: 5/2/2018 

Hello Lee - Since every pool system is different, there isn't a set pump speed for salt systems. It's going to take some testing on your part. Start on the lowest speed and slowly bring it up until the low flow/no flow indicator turns off on the salt system. That will let you know the minimum operating speed.
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 Posted: 5/1/2018 

I'm upgrading my pool pump to a variable speed pump from a constant speed pump. I'm told the savings is primarily from controlling the pump to a lower speed (translating to less electricity) for the majority of operation time (when not at a higher speed to drive the pool cleaner). How low in speed roughly, or percent of full speed, can the pump operate and still generate chlorine through the salt cell? Thank you
 Reply

 Posted: 3/26/2018 

Hello KD - This is not something to be concerned about. We would recommend using something like Jack's Magic Magenta Stuff. It's great for new start-ups and will help keep that silica in suspension.
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 Posted: 3/26/2018 

Brand new pool, they put the salt in 2 weeks ago I'm starting to see what looks like a salt residual on the tile and on the removable thermometer. It feels like little bumps on the tile. The filer is on 10 hours a day, it's screened in. Should I be concerned?
 Reply

 Posted: 3/5/2018 

Anonymous ( pool maint) - If you have had no problems at running for 10 hours a day, I would try dropping it to 8 hours during the summer and see it that works. In San Diego, it's hot enough that I would not run it less that 8 hours and I would run it every day.
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Anonymous  Posted: 2/28/2018 

We bought our home two years ago, we are in San Diego so it rarely gets to cold. We initially had a pool guy manage our pool, but I ended up taking over after a few months. I check the water weekly, and add salt or acid when needed. I have a local shop test my water monthly just to keep me on track. Its' always crystal clear. We have always run the pool/spa daily for about 10 hours. The spa spills into the pool and recirculates. The only time I've had an algae issue was when I accidentally left the system off for a week while traveling [shut it off to clean before we left and forgot to reset it]. It took a few days of scrubbing but eventually got everything clean. My question is, is recirculating the water daily for 10 hours necessary? I got a buddy up in the northern California [non-salt water pool] who only runs his three times a week for about four hours.
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 Posted: 2/25/2018 

Steve - I haven't heard this. It may be something like not running your SCG when adding salt until the salt is dissolved. To be on the safe side, you could turn off your SCG until the granular PH reducer is dissolved.
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 Posted: 2/22/2018 

Hello, I recently converted my pool to salt water and I have a lot of granular PH reducer left from my chlorine pool days. Someone told me not to use the granular PH reducer but to use Mureatic acid. Is this true? Should I not use the granular reducer? Thank you for any help!
 Reply

 Posted: 2/20/2018 

Anonymous (chlorine in winter) _ Generally, when you close down a pool in the winter, you don't add chemicals until you open it back up in the spring. Algae is not as severe a problem when the temperature is cold.
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Anonymous  Posted: 2/18/2018 

How do I replace chlorine in the winter when the electrolysis machine has been deactivated for the season?
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 Posted: 1/24/2018 

Anne - Have your pool's salt ane chlorine level checked independently by a pool store. If they are within the acceptable ranges, try cleaning your chlorinator cell. The censors in the cell may be corroded over.
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 Posted: 1/18/2018 

We have a marbelite salt chlorinated pool (installed April 2017). Had issues with the pump in September 2017 (sorted though) and ever since then the water stays murky. Salt chlorinator indicates salt level is fine. Tested the water and now finally got the pH right but the tester keeps indicating that the chlorine is almost non-existent? do I just add more salt anyway or do a attempt Shock treatment?Please advise?
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 Posted: 1/2/2018 

Bram - Your free chlorine reading should be between 1 and 3 ppm. If it shows below that range, have your water tested independently at a pool store to verify the reading. If it still shows low, try cleaning the cell. the sensor in the cell may be clogged. If that doesn't work, and your cell is 4-5 years old, you may need a new cell.
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 Posted: 1/2/2018 

My fibreglassed salt chlorinated pool is clear and algae free. The pH test is normal, but the free chlorine shows as low. Is this a problem?
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 Posted: 12/31/2017 

DesertPool - I have not seen a purple ring around a pool. If you have purple algae, I would expect it would be throughout your water. Since nothing has change with chemical use, could you have something blowing into your pool, or you might check with your water company to see if they have added anything recently.
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 Posted: 12/26/2017 

Our 13 year old fiberglass salt water pool has a purple ring around the waterline. No new chemicals used. What is causing this?
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 Posted: 11/12/2017 

Anonymous (reset check system) - This will vary with your SCG. For a Aqua Rite SCG, you would push and hold the Diagnostic Button for 3-5 seconds. If you have another model of SCG, bring up the page for your product and click on the link to its owner's manual for more information.
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Anonymous  Posted: 10/30/2017 

I have a salt water pool with an automatic monitoring system that tells we to check the chlorinate after X number of hours. How do I reset the monitor from indicating "check system" once I have cleaned the Chlorinator?
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 Posted: 10/13/2017 

Newbie - If you have a lot of leaves, I'd use a leaf net to get most of them out of your pool, then, it's all right to turn your pump on for a couple hours to vacuum the rest up out of the pool. Make sure to balance the pool chemicals before you shut the pool up for winter.
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 Posted: 10/9/2017 

We just bought a home with a salt water pool. The previous owner just gave us a "crash course". About 10 days ago, the weather turned cold, so I shut off the heater and the pump. Now there are a lot of leaves on the bottom and water looks a little green. We have also had several heavy rains. I know the chemicals must be way out of balance and I am reluctant to start the pump so I can vacuum before the pool company comes to close and cover it in a couple of days. Is it safe to run the pump long enough to vacuum (1-2 hours)? I don't want to damage the system.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/9/2017 

We just bought a home with a salt water pool. The previous owner just gave us a "crash course". About 10 days ago, the weather turned cold, so I shut off the heater and the pump. Now there are a lot of leaves on the bottom and water looks a little green. We have also had several heavy rains. I know the chemicals must be way out of balance and I am reluctant to start the pump so I can vacuum before the pool company comes to close and cover it in a couple of days. Is it safe to run the pump long enough to vacuum (1-2 hours)? I don't want to damage the system.
 Reply