Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON


The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts


Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.


Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool


Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?


If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 


Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.


Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.













If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your cell.


click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts


High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.


Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels


Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?


If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 


Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.


No Flow LED Flashing or ON



The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts


The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires




Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.



Low or High Cell Temperature


The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *


Other Common Problems and Solutions


Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.


click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

212 thoughts on “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

  1. None of my LED’s are lit, but I can read the diagnostic screen when I push the button. Just had water tested at my local pool store and FAC and TAC are at 4ppm and salt is 3500ppm.

      1. Matthew – I am having the same issue as above. Turn the pool on, the flow indicator blinks for 2 minutes or so, then goes out like normal. The Generating light comes on and remains on for 15 – 30 seconds, then goes off. No indicator lights remain on, but I can go through all screens on the diagnostics LCD so I believe there is power. I did open it up and checked the fuse and it looked fine, no indication of it being blown. Any thoughts on how to remedy?

        1. I would revert to my previous answer. Is chlorine still being produced? If so, it is a problem you can live with. If the cell isn’t working then you need to try cleaning/troubleshooting the cell to determine if the issue is there or lies in the control board.

          1. I’m having this exact problem. Yes there is chlorine in the pool. The one thing I’ll add it that my power and generating light both come on for about 15 seconds while it appears the system is checking for the current salt level. At the completion of the check, which is about 15 seconds, it shows “-0” and then it clicks, and all lights turn off. This process happens every 1-3 minutes, continuously.

          1. Hey Jay this seems to be the issue on my system when i squeezed the sides they lights came on for 15-20 secs before going out again. Do you know if you can replace just the limiter?

        2. Its a heat sync issue you can buy them yourself and if you know how to solder replace it yourself for under 50 cents unless you want to pay around $300 for aq pool guy to come out and replace your card and then make his money. Your choice.

          1. I had the same issue and after reading this blog, I bought a 2 pack of the current limiter part # 570-1062NG and soldered on in place of the bad one, took 15m to complete, problem solved, everything work perfect.


      1. Replaced both the main board twice and the display board, lights go on for 30 seconds then all goes out except for he display, pool now not generating any chlorine

  2. this is really really helpful. my local rep never told me about some of these calibration procedures. i asked him “there must be a calibration that needs to happen every once in a while with these cells” and he said no not really. ugh. =(

  3. The voltage indicator says it is 32.3 volts in the manual says it will not produce if over 30 volts what causes the high voltage and how do I repair it

    1. Hello Rik – Unless the AquaRite is set to run at 100%, it would be normal to occasionally see a 32.3 voltage rating. For example, the Aquarite will only generate chlorine half the time the pump is running when the salt system is set on 50%. It would give you a 32.3 reading if you checked it at a time when it was not creating chlorine. Is the Aquarite still producing chlorine?

      1. Hi there. One of my customers has a new salt system put in a a couple months back by their previous pool serivce. He never put salt in. So when she hired me I put the required amount of bags I
        Of salt in her pool. The following week the reading was at 3600. CYA, PH, Alk were spot on. Then one week
        Later (today) the pool was green!!! A swamp! And when I tested it with my Taylor test kit and salt meter is showed no chlorine no salt but the salt is reading 3800 on the display. Checked amps and to make sure it was programmed to the correct cell. All seems good. It’s Brand new Hayward system. Help????

        1. Make sure the Cel model is properly set in panel. T-5, T-15, etc
          If the sand filter is filthy, there is not enough salt to clean.
          Do a back flush then a super chlorination. Leave it alone
          It will stop at 24 hrs.

        2. Your salt level at 3800 is too high. The system will stop producing chlorine when salt levels are above 3400. The Hi Salt LED should be on when the system is running telling you the salt level is too high. You need to drain the pool some and then add water to lower the salt level.

  4. Hi ,
    I just opened my pool and added salt according to the pool tech advice. I will test the water in a few days to see if I need to add more salt. My salt level is low (2000) and the check cell and salt level light is on which I’m assuming is normal because the salt is low. My question is, should the generating light be on? because its off. wondering if its off because the salt level is low or is there something wrong with my cell. Is the generating light always suppose to be on?

    1. The generator can’t efficiently create chlorine with low salt, so the control panel does not turn the cell on. If the cell isn’t on, then the generating light will not be lit.

      The short of it is, add salt.

    1. This is the explanation of Instant salt:

      INSTANT SALT LEVEL – The salt level that the System is calculating during the chlorination cycle. A “-” symbol is place in front of the number to distinguish it from the Average Salt Level. Measured in ppm or grams/Liter depending on units of measure setting.

      Did you just pour in new salt?

    2. How old is your salt cell? 3-5 years is a typical age. Actually, if you get 5 years out of one, you are doing pretty good. Old, worn out salt cells will indicate erroneous high salt levels. The only way to know for sure is to test the water. TIP: Your local pool supply store will test the water for free but IMO, too often they get it wrong. Invest in a good test kit (i.e. Taylor) and do it yourself, it is very easy and will pay for itself over time. The best way to know if your system is generating chlorine is to check the voltage and current displays on the controller box front panel. Per a Hayward technician I talked to, around 25-27 volts and 4-7 amps is typical when the system is generating chlorine. Keep in mind that with the % dial set at anything less than 100%, they system will turn on and off. When it is off, and not generating chlorine, the voltage will be around 31-32 volts and the current will be zero. When you first turn on your pump and the system is up and running is the best time to check the voltage and current levels. He also told me that it is a good idea to write down the numbers when the salt cell is brand new. When the salt cell gets old and worn out the numbers (especially current will change. The current typically goes down when the cell gets old. It is a good idea to learn how to use and read the front panel display and LED’s. It tells a lot about the health of the system.

  5. My salt reading is reading very low 1,2 but sure there is salt reset the unit now reads 000 any ideas change the cell ??

      1. Hi Mat,
        If the salt level by kit test is 3200 and I did not Recalibrate The Average Salt Level, what will happen? I mean, will the system work? What is the purpose of the Recalibrate The Average Salt Level?

        1. If you turn on your AquaRite system, are there any alerts, alarms? Also, is it producing chlorine normally?

          if the system is working, I would just let it work until there is an actual cause for concern, i.e. low chlorine levels, water turning green, control unit alerts.

          1. Thanks. Everything is OK except that the salt level shown is different from salt test. Then I just let it go until there is an actual cause for concern.

  6. My board is telling me check salt, check cell. I have cleaned my cell well put it back on and reset my board. It said power, generating, chlorinating and then about 3 min later, check cell, check salt light came back on. Could this mean that my cell is bad? I have been looking for a cell replacement. I have Hayward T-cell -5 now and I am not finding that same cell? is there any cell compatible with my cell?

    1. But did you actually check the salt levels of your water? if your salt levels are low the cell can’t operate. At least rule this possibility out by checking the water chemistry at the local pool store with a free test.

      We carry the TCELL5

      1. Matt,
        We are having the same issue. Check salt and inspect cell light staying on. Just replaced t-15 cell, same issue again.Salt level has come up to 2200. Can we shock the pool with chorline to help? This is the first issue we have had in 6 years 😬

        1. The Aquarite manual and the troubleshooting guide is clear when it says the unit needs 3200 ppm to operate optimally.

          Unless I am missing something, it sounds like both of you need to add salt.

        2. Hey guys! For those of you having issues after you replace the cell with low salt readings, check cell etc.

          I had the same issue and couldn’t find a solution but it seems to be as simple as setting the cell type on the unit.

          It was showing that I had T-3 cell when in fact I have a T-15. Once I changed the type on the panel, boom, working well.

          Somehow the panel reset the type and I missed it and thought it was automatic. Almost called the company to yell at them for sending the wrong cell.

          Hope this helps some of you.

  7. Hi Matt,

    When my cell is plugged into the control panel, the power light, generating light and super chlorinator light shut off after about 5 seconds. When I unplug the salt cell plug from the control panel, all lights stay illuminated. Thoughts other than my cell is bad? Can I fix it or if it’s dirty would it shut off???


    1. This is exactly what I am seeing. After working for years, suddenly I am having haze issues this year. If I flip the breaker to the system and then reset it, it works perfectly – it flashes no flow for the usual time (30 seconds?) then decides all is good and tells me it is generating… for about 5-10 seconds. Then the generating LED shuts off, and it won’t register no flow or anything else unless I reset the breaker again.

      Cell is clean, flow is good.

      1. It may be a board issue but anything I say would be a guess. I suggest you contact Hayward to see if they can point you in a solid direction. Hayward tech support can be reached at 908-355-7995

        1. Hi. I just replaced both the board and display board on my system and the lights on the right side do not stay lit, It starts as no flow. Then went to generations then goes blank, the display reads all functions, the salt cell was replaced last. Season.

  8. when i opened my pool this year the console would light up but does not show any words such as salt level and so on. what would cause that?

  9. My qua Rite is reading very low salt, 300 ppm. I had it checked and it is low, but at 1500ppm. I tired to calibrate several times, but I never get the countdown. When I follow the steps it just shows 000 on the screen. It never actually starts at a higher number then starts a countdown. What do I do now?

    1. Since your salt is too low, first, I would address that. Get out your owner’s manual, pull up the salt chart. Add the right amount of salt. No use in fiddling with the cell when you don’t have enough salt in the water for it to operate properly.

      aquarite salt chart

  10. i replaced main circuit board (GLX-PCB-RITE) last year and this year i put a brand T-15cell. my generator lcd is always showing 0, i cannot run diagnostics, power led is ON, no flow led flashes initially once flow is detected it would turn off. i checked my board again but nothing seems wrong to naked eye. Inspect cell led wont come on even if i remove the cell from control panel.so im concerned whether the circuit board has gone bad again. any advise

    1. The only thing you haven’t replaced is the AquaRite Display Board. Before I go tell you to replace that too, you should probably call Hayward for some troubleshooting. They should be able to give you a confirmation what is wrong, pretty easily. Hopefully, it is a cheaper fix than a different board.

  11. I have a T-9 cell , I the check salt and inspect cell light comes on I brought the T-9 to pool store they said it’s working good also my salt levels at the pool store said good readings I reset because it shows low salt and it works fine for a bit then the lights come on again ?? why is it not working properly>?

    1. I’m having the same issue. My pool started to get cloudy last night, and a little greenish. The Aquarite panel reads 1800. The pool company tested the water today, and they said my salt level was actually closer to 4000! Anyways, my check salt and inspect cell lights are both staying on, despite attempts to recalibrate the system. Any thoughts? Thanks!

  12. My Aquarite T-9 has a no flow light on, so its not producing. Also, the volts reads 30.5, amps reads 0.00 The salt level is 3700, the instant is -0.00. I looked at the flow sensor, it looks ok to me. Any ideas on why its not producing? The system is only 2 years old.

      1. My Aquarite shows check salt, check cell lights on, reading was 700. Cleaned the cell, it worked for a day. When the pump cycled back on the next day, the same symptoms check salt, check cell light on this time with no generating light on and reading 1600. Had the salt level checked by pool supply was 3200. Replaced the cell with the same type that was removed Hayward T15, 40,000 gal. After a day of what appeared to be normal operation, once the pump cycled off for the day and back on the next morning the same symptoms reappeared. The check salt, check cell lights on and generating light off. Went through all the troubleshooting diagnostics able to get the check salt, check cell lights off and the generator light on, seemed normal again. Had the salt level checked again at the pool supply still in the same range 3300. Decided to clean the pool and after backwashing the no flow light illuminated with inspect cell light on and generating light off, (first time the no flow light has ever been on during all this trouble, except for when the replacement cell was first installed and pump running during the initial start up) I understand that when the no flow light is on that the generator light will remain off. Played around with the control panel and all the lights started working as normal, only the power and generating lights were On. Once again after the pump cycles off and back on the next day the check salt, check cell lights on with the generating light off and the reading display shows 1600. Please advise.

        1. Ted, did you get a solution. I have a new pool and am experiencing something similar or perhaps the same. t-3 cell. I recalibrate and all is well. When variable pump either shuts off or lessens flow it seems to screw everything up. readings go lower and I believe salt level to be fine based upon tests at pool company and strips.

      2. So my amps are reading 0 so I need a new PC board. Does it matter that my display cycle doesn’t show my t-cell number at all? It goes from the r1.45 to the salt reading.

  13. My aqua rite unit will turn on the power, generating and superchlorinate LEDs (in that mode) then after maybe 30 seconds I hear relays click and all the LEDs turn off. If in normal mode it does the same with just the power and generate leds. My chlorine has dropped to almost 0 so I’m assuming that means it isn’t running. Display always reads 3400 and never turns off. Any ideas? Help would be greatly appreciated

    1. Forgot to mention, it does this in a continuous loop, lights come on, clicks, go off. Display always reads 3400

  14. Hi I need some help. Got the Aqua Trol last year worked great. This year turned on and the Check Tcell and Check salt light solid and display was hard to read. Got hold of Hayward they sent new tcell and display I installed and ran system for 24 hours. Can see display but I am still getting check Tcell and Salt light solid. Getting so frustrated as my pool guy is not helping me at all and I would have to pay if I have different guy come out and take a look.

  15. Mike, I have a strange one. My awful right was not producing chlorine like it should. The display board says I have 3500 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2600. I have a strange one. My swim pure T-9 was not producing chlorine like it should. The display board says I have 3400 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2400. The cell amperage seems to confirm this because it only shows 5.17 amps which is low for a T-9. I clean my cell monthly. Otherwise the system seems to be operating normal and all the other diagnostics are correct. Any ideas? Do you know if the high salt alarm is tied to the amperage for the cell? In other words can I keep adding salt until it is the actual correct salt level without causing the swim pure to stop working? As long as the amperage doesn’t go to high I should be ok? Thanks!

    1. Hello Jim, I would add enough salt to get the water into the 2700 to 3400 ppm range and see what happens. If it doesn’t work then you can drain and add fresh water pretty easily.

      But to be honest, I am a little confused because you mentioned two different units and two different salinity level problems. Also, that you said that the cell was not producing in the beginning, but then said you don’t want it to stop working by the end.

      1. Mathew. My apologies for the phone issues! Here is what is going on:
        Swim pure plus system with a T-9 cell. It is not producing chlorine like it should. The Swim pure says that the water already has 3500 salt but when I had it tested locally it only had 2400. I now understand why cell isn’t producing because it doesn’t have enough salt but the swim pure is incorrectly showing a reading of 3500. I’ve already tried re calibrating the salt cell but it still is reading high. I am afraid that if I put enough salt to get the real salt reading up to 2700-3400 that the swim pure will shut down because it thinks the salt level is too high. I read somewhere that the salt reading on the display is calculated from the amp reading from the salt cell. On mine, the T9 is amp reading is low–only 5.17 and it should be 6.5. Very strange deal. You are probably right, the only thing I can do is keep adding salt until the physical salt is correct and see if the system continues to operate. Does that make more sense? Thanks!

  16. I forgot to mention that I have already tried calibrating the salt cell. I hope what I said above makes sense. My phone was acting up. Thanks!

  17. My unit stop working, no led’s at all. I replaced the transformer, had main board repaired and replaced the indicator board. Still no lights at all, although I can hear the transformer’s quiet normal hum now. Even the plug that operates my pump doesn’t work. But the pump will come on when I use any other source of power. This is driving me crazya

  18. Just installed a new pool and running my chlorinator for the first time.. we balanced the chemicals and added salt. I have a t 3 cell and my numbers creeped from 2800 to 3700 I had the dial at 5 ppm and chloromator is still generating. Why has it not shut down ?

    Thank you,

    1. When you add the salt it takes time for it to dissolve completely into solution. This may be the reason for your slow creep up to 3700 ppm. The cell would keep generating until it hits the 5 ppm setting, it is probably still running because it has not reached that mark. Also, 5 ppm is high for a salt pool. I would set it to 2 or 3

      1. Thank you for the quick response. When I said 5 ppm I was trying to say 5 %output on the dial. When satisfied would the unit stay on stand and not generate ? I have been running it for 8hours a day since Saturday and pool is still saying 3700. Having trouble understanding how to maintain the right range.

        Any help would be great.

        Thank you,

        1. The cell would stay on even while it is not generated, but the “Generating” light wouldn’t be lit. When you have it set to 5% production, that means in any given hour the cell would only be active for 3 minutes.

          If the salt reading is accurate, then it is not going to go down unless you drain a portion of the water. Get your water tested by a local pool company to confirm the salinity level. Proper salinity levels for an AquaRite is 2700 to 3400 ppm.

  19. Hi, our Hayward AquaTrol is about 7 years old and it’s suddenly having a problem. We’re getting the Generating LED briefly flashing and then turning off. No lights at all on the display and it’s definitely not generating chlorine. Pump is running and we do have flow. We’ve already checked the fuse and all is fine. Help!

  20. have an aqua rite controller and T9 cell that does not seem to be generating. The salt level on the display was low so I added salt but when I checked the salt level with test strips it showed a value around 6000 ppm! Now the display shows a level of 100 ppm even after cleaning the cell (which btw was not visibly diirty at all). Is the cell ready for replacement? Does this value of 100 mean something? Any help is appreciated.

    1. Yes, it sounds like your TCell is ready to be replaced. The only thing that I could think of that would show 100 on the board is “100 P” which is referencing to the board being set at 100% production.

  21. We have an aqua rite t-cell 15. Salt level has been tested professionally and it is a little over 3000 ppm. However, even after re-calibrating the cell to that reading level, the reading keeps going down gradually, over a period of a few hours, until it reaches about 2300 at which point it stops generating. We have repeated this process several times over the past week and it continues to do the same thing. Does this mean cell replacement?

  22. I’m having a no chorine generating issue.
    When I first flip the pump on readings are
    1500 salt
    Then it will switch off turning check cell and low salt light on. Had the salt tested and is at 3300 does this sound like a bad cell or a board issue with the extremely low amps?

  23. Hi. My salt machine says no flow then shuts down. All the lights go off even power. I turn it back on and it just does the same think. I ve checked the connections. It’s all good. Nothing obstructing. Can you please help. What could it be. It reads that my salt is at 2700. Could that be the problem? But the check salt does not come on. Only power and blinking no flow then it shuts down.


  24. I have an Aqua Rite system with a T cell 15. When pushing the diagnostic button it comes to a R 1.45 then back to salt number. It never displays the T cell number. Is something wrong with the Cell or system? Unit installed in 2009. Also what is R 1.45. is this number correct? It also has AL – 1. Is this correct? Thanks

      1. I’ve got a Aqua Rite with firmware R1.40 and mine doesn’t dhow the T cell number either. I think since only the T-15 was supported on versions earlier than R1.50 the there was no reason to have that display option in the firmware.

  25. Matthew, How does one know when the Hayward AquaRite control box for the salt generator has reached the end of it’s life?

  26. Hi I have an aqua plus system with T15 Cell, cell and main board have been replaced recently. The unit will start normally and chlorinate but after 20 minutes it will shut down and new cycle would not start, i have to manually do diagnostics and start the new cycle. I have run system in both + and – and runs fine but after that it will not re start. Salt is 3100, flow is on, no temperature issues, and no warning lights. whwn is on it works but once it goes int a new cycle it will not start to Chlorinate.

  27. I’m getting no chlorine out of my system despite new equipment.

    New GLX-PCB-RITE circuit board and new T-15 cell.
    All chemicals are balanced within range.
    Pool store shows salt love is 2900.
    My Readouts are:
    > 3300
    > 75 degrees
    > 26.5 volts
    > 6.29 amps
    > 80%
    > -3300
    > AL-1
    > r 1.59
    > t-15
    > Ran the system overnight at 80%. Chlorine in
    > pool remained zero.
    > Ran the system overnight on Superchlorinate.
    > Chlorine in pool remained zero and Superchlorinate indicator remained
    > lit even after 12 hours.
    > What am I missing?

  28. I’ve just replaced my T-3 cell and the current limiter on the PCB as I was having problems with the system turning on and off repeatedly. Now I get the Power and the Generating LED’s on for as long as I have the system running. The salt level is reading 3700 (a bit high but apparently not enough to shut the system down), voltage and amp are within range, everything seems to be fine but after running the system on superchlorinate overnight and another 8 hours on 100%, I’m still getting zero chlorine. What can possibly be wrong?

  29. Hi there, I have a Hayward Goldline Aquatrol. I’ve cleaned the cell, recalibrated the salt levels to match the salt levels from the pool store (3200ppm) and all my chemical levels are perfect.
    The problem is that the check cell and check salt lights remain on. The displays read zero for my salt level (both readings, average and instint) and amp reads zero. Nothing seems to work, thanks.

  30. Hayward Aqua Rite with T3 cell. All lights function as normal. All amps and voltages are within range, but when I test for Chlorine, none there. Any ideas?

  31. Our system seems to be working properly in all aspects, except when we test our chlorine level it is very low if any at all. We’ve replaced cell recalibrated with no Success. We’ve had the system working fine for three years. This is an indoor pool that stays open year around. The pool also has heavy traffic. Up till this point we’ve never had a problem. Like I said all levels are within the ranges they should be brand new t 15 and controller set to t 15 any help would be appreciated.

    Our cya is between 0 and 30 and our manual states that 0 ppm is ideal. Is it possible that even though our controller isn’t showing any faults it may need to be replaced?

      1. Truer words have not been posted regarding the Hayward salt systems and pool water in general, regardless of the type.

        I have found 60ppm is the sweet spot and keeps js away from sliding into the non-effective range of 90 ppm, where the chlorine becomes ineffective.

        I tell my client’s, the stabilizer is sunscreen for your pool’s water but too much of it isn’t a good thing.

        I have also found no two T15’s are the same.

        I have one client whose system is very robust and can handle 3400 ppm like a champ and I don’t have to turn the system off when adding 80 lbs of salt to it when it dips down to 2900 ppm.

        I also have another client less than 3 miles away from the one above that can’t go over 3200 ppm and I have to shut the cell off and let it run 24 hrs before firing it back up and can only put 40 lbs in at a time.

        Less I want to blow the board/chip.

        I do believe Hayward has addressed this issue with the new series they came out with, nonetheless.

        Good solid advice Matthew.

  32. Matt – I replaced my t9 cell with a new T9 this spring. I just checked my chlorine and levels are zero! I’m looking at the panel and the power and generating are off. When I turned circuit breaker off and on again, the power and generating light came on for 5 seconds and went back out. What’s it doing?

    1. In the last part of the article we mention:

      Power LED Not On
      1) Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
      2) Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
      3) If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
      4) The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

      1. Thanks Matt, I checked the fuse tonight and it is not blown. When I flipped breaker on tonight, only salt ppm and no flow light came on. A few minutes later, no flow light goes out and only salt ppm number is displayed. I’m changing flow switch tomorrow to see if that helps. If nothing changes, should I replace the board?
        Thank you

  33. AquaRite unit says salt is 3500, test strips and a separate tester show 2850. tried to recalibrate generator but the numbers flash by so quickly I cannot read them. any suggestions on how to slow it down so I can select the correct salt level?

  34. Here’s an FYI. I have the Aquarite with a t-cell-9. Never have an issue, it is checked when lit, and cleaned when required. Unit blew the fuse the other day, everything looked fine. Replaced the fuse, and it came back until it tried to make chlorine. Off position, it stayed fine, auto or super, it blew the fuse.
    I replaced the cell and it is working perfectly fine again. So I am figuring the old cell shorted out. Four years to the day.

  35. Hi. I have an Aquarite T-cell-15 Above ground Goldline Aquarite chlorinatimg system andwhen I switch on the power, all of the LED lights flash rapidly continuously and the PCB control board clicks erpeated in groups of four fast clicks at a time with a slightly onger gap between the groups of four clicks. Of course it is not working at all and I have had to disconnect the power as it’s power and my pool pump power share the same on/off switch. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I have called and spoken to Hayward technical support in Ontario and they are supposed to call me back but have not done so as yet. Any help would be appreciated.

  36. Aquarite AQR9. Installed pool earlier this summer and it was consistently generating chlorine and weekly levels were great. Now All I am getting is a power LED but the “generating” light never comes on, even when I dial it up to 100% or try superchlorinate. Salt reads 3300. Pump is on, so that’s not the issue.

  37. I have a new cell bought in June. System ran fine, then it started coming on and off in a cycle of about 20-30 secs. The amps are all correct and I wonder if I need to replace board?

  38. Hi,
    I’ve been fighting with my Hayward salt system all year. It worked fine last year, this year, not so much.

    The pool holds roughly 15,000 gallons.

    All readings are within normal values, the only LEDs on the system that are on are POWER and GENERATING. I have the correct cell type selected. Even running @ 100% it’s generating zero chlorine. I’ve been adding powder chlorine, that too disappears in a day or two. Cyanuric acid is nominal. I have a floater with broken up chlorine tabs in the pool, that doesn’t seem to touch it. I’ve had the (new) salt cell and the pool water checked by my local Leslie’s — they say everything’s perfect. I’ve recalibrated the controller and the current is nominal in both polarities.

    This is crazy-making. Any suggestions?

    I emailed Hayward technical support, they said “your phosphorus levels are high”, I said, no, they’re not (<100PPM), they didn't want to discuss it after that.

  39. What would cause the cell to produce too much chlorine when only set on 15% ? I’ve tested several times and the chlorine is dark yellow in the test tube. The cell is a T-15 and is 8 years old.

    1. Because it is autumn, if you are in a colder climate, chlorine does not get burned off like it normally would do in summer. So your chlorine could be lingering around for longer, and your cell is just adding to it. Turn off the cell until the chlorine drops to a lower level.

  40. I replaced a t-15 with a t-9 cell on a aqua rite originally installed in 2007 (I learned the age of the unit after installing the new cell). After installing the new cell I found that the board does not have the option for choosing a different cell type. I guess my question is if there is a way to update the board to be able to work with a t-9? Now that I’ve spent a bunch of $ on the new cell, am I stuck having to get a whole new board as well to get the t-9 to work properly?

  41. What is a -pcb-? That’s what my aqua rite thing is displaying. Also leds are lit for high salt, no flow, inspect cell.

    1. Sorry, I know very little about our pool and equipment.. but i want to know if something’s broken before I tell my husband… because if it is there’s a 94% chance I’m the one who broke it.

  42. We are having the light issue with the power light and will check the fuse, but the screen is reading “cold”. What does that mean. We have a Swim Pure Plus system. Everything is running fine as far as we know. The water temp is in the 60s. It has never said this in the past

  43. Hello, I have a aquarite t-cell 15, it developed a problem recently. I have added bags of salt in there not long ago. The salt level reading was ok to start with, then just lowers down to 2700 in a few days. So, When the cell was generating, I checked the instant salt level, it always says a weird number, like -2000, -1900… I guess this drags the average salt reading down in a few days? The pool store said my salt level is 3400. But my pool has 0 chlorine in there! Also, when it is generating, the current is about 3.4A, this seems low compare to before, but i am not really sure. Do I seem to have a bad cell, or bad circuit board? Any suggestions? Thanks!

  44. my haward aqua rite kept turning off after a minute or so – so i bought a replacement logic board which i just installed but the 20 amp fuse blew as soon as i turned the power back on – i replaced it with the 20 amp fuse from the old board but the same thing happened – what is my next step?

    1. The AquaLogic board is different than an AquaRite board. Are you sure you purchased and installed the correct board? Also, when you install a new board you need to make sure the circuit voltage settings correct before applying power. Check the circuit for any faults, and for the correct voltage so you can confirm your board is set up correctly.

  45. this is what i bought —
    Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main for Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination – how do i make sure circuit voltage settings are correct?

  46. I replaced the PCB because my power and generating led’s were not coming on. The LCD however is displaying properly. After the PCB replacement, the power & generating lights still do not turn on. The cell is clean and less than 6 months old. Any idea on what should I replace next?

  47. i tested with multimeter and found the replacement board with jumpers for 220 ac as described as the default setting had about 240 VAC across and the next test across the yellows showed 24 – the following test across the 20 amp fuse that keeps blowing shows 22.6 – also the replacement 20 amp fused i bought have prongs that are too wide to fit on the connectors on the board – i held one up with needle nosed pliers to make connection and it quickly blew the circuit as the others had done. i can’t test black and red across main board without 20 amp fuse that works – as of now there is almost no current across black and red on main. should i return replacement board i bought as faulty? if not what do i do next? thanks for your help.

    1. What do you mean the “system is running”? Is the cell producing chlorine? The control panel is on and other lights are as normal? Or do you mean the pump is on and pushing water?

  48. Hello all. I have a Hayward T-15 system. I replaced the cell 2 or 3 years ago, and the board 2 years ago. I have proper salt, the cell generates chlorine, BUT the “Desired output %” will not increase over 18 no matter how I spin the dial. It will DECREASE, but will not increase over 18. I can switch to Super Chlorinate the display reads 100. Any suggestions on what is going on? Thanks!

    1. The knob mechanism may be faulty. As I see it there are two solutions: replace the knob piece of the display board or replace the whole display board. Those small gadgets pieces are available at local or online electronic parts stores. If you want to replace the whole board there you have the Hayward PCB or the aftermarket Pureline PCB

  49. Why won’t my Hayward Swim-Pure Plus hold the “salt display” reading. All the other readings seem to be within range and hold, but the salt reading drops down and goes into shut off mode.
    here are the readings I have:
    1. 85 water temp
    2. 25.2 cell voltage
    3. 4.08 cell current-amps
    4. 51% output
    5. 3000 Instant Salinity (this continually drops down to shut off mode)
    Everything seems correct except the salinity drops until it hits shutdown zone. It usually takes about a day
    for it to get there (maybe 2 days), but then I have to reset it to up around 3000. Readings from pool store are always at mid to high 3000’s when I take water there weekly.

      1. Yes, and it looks clean with no buildup apparent from either end. I HAVE NOT, however, ever cleaned it using a partial acid solution because every time that I have cleaned it using a hose there was never an obvious buildup that was visible.

  50. I have an Aquarite/Goldline chlorinator and t-15 salt cell (r-1.4) for fourteen years. It’s installed on 21,000 gallon liner pool, so I expected the salt cell to exceed the 5 year limit, but can’t believe we were able to get an additional 9 years. Eight years ago I had to replace the currrent limiter on the PC board, but I initially thought I had to replace the salt cell and ordered a Compupool GRC40GH, which is suppose to be a direct replacement. I never replaced the the salt cell and I have stored the Compupool GRC40GH salt cell in my garage for nine years. I have replaced the current limiter two more times on the PC board and have had no issues with the SWG system from Aquarite/Goldline, until this year when the generator stopped generating and the salinity output reading levels started to drop significantly. I replace the salt cell and recalibrated the salinity reading and hit 3200ppm, which was just measured at the pool store. Everything appeared to be working fine and the the salinity numbers started to measure 4000ppm and 1000ppm over the next few days. I kept recalibrating the system, but the salinity now reads 3800ppm, which is too high and now the NO FLOW LED does not illuminate and flash for the first 10 to 30 seconds before the GENERATION LED illuminates. During AUTO start-up we have the GENERATION LED illuminated immediately. I can here the relay energize on the PC board, which I assume is actually sending power to the salt cell to generate chlorine. Is it possible for the flow meter/relay to fail in a closed state? Is it a compatibility issue with the new salt cell? Is the software corrupted on a EEPROM/microprocessor? if it is; is the software on the main PC board or is on the smaller LED PC board. I going to disconnect the flow switch tomorrow and read the voltage and current outputs no closely. It appears after I recalibrate the system that we are generating chlorine at the salt cell, as I do see some small bubbles through the site glass area, however I’m not seeing an increase in chlorine levels, like I should, after two full days running around the clock. Any suggestions in troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thank You

  51. Hi,
    Installed new Aqua Plus in September, T-15 cell. Was working just great last fall.
    This year, after opening… it’s not generating enough chlorine. I have some very little amount of it, small fraction from what it suppose to be.
    – salt was checked and added, shows 3200 or 3300
    – Actual cell was checked, was perfectly clean
    – ~26 volts and ~5.4 Amp
    – configured for T-15 cell
    – temperature 60F
    Main concern, that it’s generating something…by filling about 20% from the original.
    So much appreciated for any suggestions

    1. At the moment…Chlorine stabilizer was added and it started to work much better…
      Didn’t know that even under solar cover that thing matters so much

  52. Hello- our system is less than a year old and works great. About a week ago our Power LED and no flow light stay on when the system should be “off”. It also shows all readings when it should be off. The system is still generating and gives correct readings. It seems as there is no way to shut it off. Any suggestions?

    1. It sounds like you have the system wired in a way that never shuts off power to the panel even if the motor pump is turned off. You could either re-wire it or since it is working fine keep it the way it is.

  53. The power light does not come on. I reset the circuit breaker and the “generating” light came on for 5 seconds and then went out. The power light never came back on. I even bought an entire new circuit board and this made no difference. Could it be the transformer? Can those be purchased? How do I test it?

  54. Hi Matt. I have an Aqua Plus system. The problem I’m having is my super chlorinate works fine when I test it but when I test it on just chlorinate at 60% I get nothing. If I super chlorinate my pool tests ok for chlorine. If I just leave it on chlorinate, in a day or so I have no chlorine in my pool. I put a dummie on and when I put the chlorinater in a bucket of water it generates on super chlorinate but not chlorinate. Any idea what is going on?

  55. Hello.

    Aqua Rite unit with the T-15 cell.

    My temperature reads about 50 degrees hotter than actual water temp and I can’t figure out why. I installed the cell new last fall. I have inspected the cell for buildup and it is clear.

    Any ideas?

    Is it possible that my VS pump is heating up the water enough to cause this reading? The pipes coming into the cell don’t feel warm to the touch.

    Thanks for your help!

  56. My aqua-rite generator have blank display screen with the power light on but no other lights…can someone advise on the potential cause. It worked till yesterday.

  57. My power led will not come on and it won’t generate. When I reset the breaker it flashes no flow for about 60 seconds and then the generate led lights up fo about 10 seconds the off. The display works fine. My water has no chlorine, so it’s not generating. I checked the fuse, it’s good.
    8 yr old pool, and I’m on my second cell.

  58. my customer says the system does not read the salt level correctly. the reading he does get slowly drops as the day goes on. the the system shuts off. when he disconnects the cell from the controller he doesn’t get a “NO CELL” reading. is it the cell or the PC board?

    1. From that scant description, I cannot tell what the cause is. But have you or the customer checked the cell voltage, amps and completed any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the article? That could go a long way in determining what the issue is.

  59. Great info and many thanks. You are correct – no place is the troubleshooting info consolidated.

    I have an Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator that does not have some of the features you highlight. For example, I am unable to reset the cell type. I never see the “T-xx”. Another things is that I am unable to display the voltage and current.

    Could this be because our firmware is version r1.10?

    A little history is that this system came with the home we bought but was not in use. No salt in the pool. They had a service that managed the chlorine. I have replaced the cell with a GLX-CELL3-W ( we have an ~16000 gal. pool ). We check the water and all Parameters are in line except no chlorine. Any thoughts?

    Thank you in advance.

    1. Hey Matthew – when I perform the following:
      1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
      2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display

      I never see “t-xx” or “t-15”, “t-3”, etc. …

      Your thoughts?

  60. Hi Matthew –
    Nevermind, …
    “Aqua Rite chlorine generators operating with software version 1.50 or later are designed to use one of 3 different chlorinator cells that are available from your authorized Hayward dealer.”

  61. Hi Matthew,

    My system stopped working yesterday. When I entered the pool shed there was a weird smell, as if a transistor or something had burned out. The inside of the box looked fine however and the logic board still seems to work correctly. It’s not the T-15 cell either as I’ve tried a different one (on loan, guaranteed working) with the same result.

    What happens is that it takes about 3 minutes for the power led to come on. Then when you set it to auto or super chlorinate, after about 8 seconds you hear the familiar click of the logic board turning the cell. 7 seconds later another click and both lights turn off again.
    It turns out it takes a couple minutes for the voltage to the cell to build back up which crashes back down as soon as the cell turns on.

    The board gives me this diagnostic info:
    Salinity: 2.90
    Temp: 27 (celcius)
    Voltage: slowly builds to 17.4 (when set to off) takes about 3 minutes before power led turns on.
    The voltage crashes down to less than 1.0 quickly after the cell turns on.
    Amperage: Initially shoots up to 0.7 when cell turns on, then immediately crashes back down to 0.00
    Desired output: 69p (while knob is at 60, close enough)
    Instant Salinity: -0.00 Quickly goes to -1.40 then right back to -0.00 when cell turns on.
    Product name: AL – 0
    Software revision: r 1.40
    No cell type info but hasn’t changed since installation.

    Goldline controls
    PN: G1-066012C-1
    Rev: C

    115v input
    24v over the two yellow wires

    Which component is at fault, the board or the transformer or something replaceable on the board? The cell tries to draw power but the box can’t deliver and shuts back off.

      1. Same problem. Lights are green, both if set to % or set to superchlorinate (appropriate lights with each setting. Amps and volts are good. Salt level says 3300 but test strip says 2800. Put in new cell a week ago and things chlorine was coming out. Now…nothing. I have a hose bib after the cell and test water before it gets to the pool.

        Is there a way to see if the cell just stopped working?

        1. The bucket test is pretty simple. Get a 5-gallon bucket, fill it with pool water, then submerge the cell in the water. Next, turn on the SCG and set the output to 100% to make sure it is on and not oscillating between on/off. If the cell is making chlorine, there should bubbles floating out the cell which is a byproduct of the cell creating chlorine.

  62. My aqua rite chlorine output knob is not working correctly. When setting it to 30 it reads on the display 80. Not sure how to reset/calibrate this. Would appreciate any insight.


  63. Matthew, earlier this summer I was going nuts because I had the right amount of salt but no chlorine was being generated. After finding this blog I figured out that my T-9 cell system was set to T-5 on the panel. I reset it to T-9 and was getting chlorine the rest of the summer. Over the past week our pool has turned green and when I checked the FC it was down to 0. Checked the panel again and it was set to T-5. No one has touched it. No clue why it is changing it’s settings on its own. Any suggestions on this?

    1. Not sure, why it may have reset. Maybe there was a power outage that caused a change, or someone accidentally adjusted the wrong setting. I’d just keep an eye on it, so when you see water quality slipping, you can act quicker next time.

  64. My system comes on and shows a HIGH reading, not generating. If I move the switch to off then back on it displays a salt reading (2700) and the generating light is on. Pool is starting to turn green. Any ideas as to what is causing this problem?

    1. First, get your water tested to figure out what your actual water salinity level. Adjust salt level as needed. Second, clean the cell. The cell may be malfunctioning because the sensors and plates are caked with scale. Third, if the first two things don’t work, use the diagnostics mentioned throughout this article.

  65. My Hayward Aquarite unit (T-15) is producing no chlorine – I just took the salt cell to a testing place and they said it was working ‘like new’. All indicators are working as normal and all metrics within acceptable range. Couple of things are unusual (1) the control unit is producing a lot of heat – the box is almost too hot to touch (2) the salt reading is 3700 and tested 4100.
    Any advice? Thanks

    1. Just going through the things we mention in the article. You could try recalibrating the salt level, cleaning the cell, or try some of the other things mentioned at the bottom of the article, depending on the light alerts your box is providing.

  66. Hi, and thanks for such a nice guide… Although it has not solved my problem, it gave me a few ideas of what to look for. I’ll post the problem here, just in case there are some quick suggestions about what might be wrong with my system.
    Here are the symptoms:
    (1) Only the Power LED is on, Generating does not come on; Superchlorinating does not come on even when switched on, and no other LEDs ever come on, no error messages
    (2) the Output switch is set to 100%
    (3) The cell has been tested at a shop, it works fine,
    (4) The pool chemistry is good, salt is at 2900ppm (tested at Leslie’s), temp at 62F… After I did all water chemistry steps, and finally added 400 lbs of salt, I’ve been running the pump for about 14 hrs straight
    (5) Diagnostics works, it always shows zero for average and instant salinity, c. 33V for Cell Voltage, zero amps; cell type is t-15, correct.
    I did the circuit board troubleshooting as per Hayward guide, all voltages seem ok and correct, the fuse has continuity…
    I never hear any clicks for the relay switch when I turn the unit on, as mentioned somewhere in the guide, but then again the pump is loud, and I don’t really know how loud should that click be…

    any suggestions?

  67. Hi Matt, I’ve read a years worth of owner comments and your responses. What I have determined is that it is nearly impossible to manage all the variables (cell function, PCB function, salt levels) and come up with a correct diagnosis of a problem from where you are sitting. The diagnostic flow charts are helpful but far from perfect.

    The one repeated complaint I see in this blog and elsewhere on the web and without a solution being provided is the complaint of a declining instant salt reading over time when tested pool salt levels are in range . That then results in (1) the salt cell shuts down at some point during a filtration cycle due to a low salt reading or (2) on restart of the pump/filtration cycle, the salt cell fails to restart because the last instant salt reading was out of the specified range for operation.

    Bottom line and still an unanswered question: why does the instant salt level reading decline during a filtration cycle when (1) the pool salt level is in range, (2) the salt cell is clean, working correctly and not aged out, (3) diagnostics indicate there are no problems with the PCB itself (hardware).

    Noteworthy in this discussion is that, with my system experiencing this problem of declining salt levels during a filtration cycle, by sliding the power switch to off then back to auto or super chlorinate, the system seeks a new instant salt level that is close to what your pool water test says it was. Then, the salt cell starts generating again and the cycle repeats itself, i.e., the instant salt level gradually declines forcing a halt to salt generation due to a low salt level that is presumably incorrectly determined by the system.

    The one thing I’ve not seen discussed anywhere is the potential for the PCBs to be improperly programmed at the factory level, i.e., the sampling sequence produces errors and in this case low salt readings. All other system components found to be within specifications (cell, pool chemistry, PCB) would lead one to believe a global software issue with certain PCBs coming out of certain facilities may be the underlying problem. I say “certain” PCBs because not every PCB demonstrates this behavior. It’s a quality control issue perhaps.

    One other thought: The way the system determines instant salt and by extension the memorized or average salt level is through a pre-programmed sampling sequence. Whenever you change the cell or correct pool salt levels by adding salt or diluting the pool a small change in salt concentration (PPMs) disrupts the accuracy of the programmed sampling cycle. It appears that it takes a while for the system to find a stable instant salt reading. A solution to the declining salt level problem that then shuts down the salt cell may be to leave your pool pump on for maybe 72 hours to allow multiple sampling cycles to occur without interruption. The one problem with this solution is that (1) if the PCB is programmed to shut off salt generation when the memorized or average salt level drops below spec or (2) It uses the instant salt reading to determine shut down parameters and this resets at every new filtration cycle, my proposed solution won’t help and we’re back to PCB programming issues that need to be addressed. Interested in hearing your take on this post.

    1. Any response to this comment? I’ve read most of this thread.

      I am getting a low salt reading. Multiple tests at pool store tell me I’m at 3500. Cell is a T15 and cell test at pool store is good.

      I can get an instant salt reading high enough to get the generator to work but it will shut down and tell me low salt.

      I’ve replaced the circuit board, to no avail.

      I’m ready to throw the whole system out. What else can I do?

  68. Hiya Matt!
    I have a Hayward Goldline Salt Generator with a T-15 cell.
    Starting up the system this year, i get a constant flashing “Inspect Cell” light.
    When I press the Display button to reset the 500 hour operation limit, it does not reset the light., i.e., the flashing light stays on. The system is generating chlorine, but the stupid light stays flashing.
    If I push the Display button to see the settings, nothing happens. I can’t see any of the diagnostic values.
    I’m having the cell checked, but I suspect a problem on the PCB, unless I’m missing something.
    If I hold down the Display button for 10-10 seconds I do hear the relay reset, so I know the button and the board are working and the system is generating Chlorine.

  69. I opened my pool up this past week. Now I cannot get any power to the salt system. Pump and everything else is working? Went to the pool place and they are telling me that I need a whole new system. Do I need to try and get a brand new 20 amp min fuse? How about cleaning the cell do you think that my be the issue?

    1. You can buy a fuse for a couple of bucks and try it out; it is a pretty cheap and simple item to procure and install. If it isn’t the fuse and you have confirmed power is reaching the control box, the main PCB is likely bad and needs to be replaced.

      A dirty salt cell will not affect power getting to the unit

  70. These are my readings:
    Salt level 3200
    Temperature 85
    Voltage (22 – 32VDC) 16.8
    Amperage 0
    Desired output 100
    Instant salt 0
    Program code AL-0
    Circuit board revision 1.58
    Cell size t-15

    Problem description: Amperage = 0, no chlorine generation.

    Observed behavior:
    1 Turn on power. “No Flow” LED starts flashing.
    2 60sec later, “No Flow” LED tuns off. “Generating” LED turns on (green).
    3 10sec later all LEDs turn off.
    4 10sec later “Power” and “Generating” LEDs turn on (green)
    5 10sec later a click is heard
    6 8sec later “Power” and “Generating” LEDs turn off
    7 60sec later go to step 4

    Can you please help? Thank you so much in advance.

  71. I have an aqua rite system with only the green power light lit no matter where the switch is at. No other lights come on when I move switch from each position. Thanks!

  72. Matt: I had some issues with this Aquarite system .. lead me to replacing both the display and the main board — now each morning it reads “700” on the display, as well as “CHECK SALT” and “INSPECT CELL” blinks … go through the calibration routine and everything seems to go back to normal — until the next morning. (kind of like GROUNDHOG DAY) — what’s you thought?

  73. Happened again ;like clockwork this morning — BTW: each morning it reads “700” on the display, as well as “CHECK SALT” and “INSPECT CELL” stays on (stated in earlier post that it blinks — but actually stays on)

  74. Thanks for getting back … cell t-15 is correctly selected on the display, and cell t-15 was cleaned about 4 weeks ago. Technician says the salt box stays “ON” overnight , even after the pump shuts off in late afternoon — he thinks that’s the problem — although the system has been doing that for 16 years now. Both display panel and PCB have been replaced (yes, with genuine Hayward stuff) — tried a OEM board and replaced that a few days ago — this is really making me a little crazy. If I press the reset to calibrate, numbers all seem to go back to normal. But then next thing in the morning starts off at 700 again!

  75. Matt,
    I recently started my pool up. I have it all clear through shocking ,etc. I recently added salt to obtain a level of 3100. I did recalibrate my Aquarite unit. It starts to produce chlorine in about 15 minutes shuts off. When I check my display, it says my salt reading is 3100 but my average salt reading is 0 and the amps is 0. The light for generating is still “on.” I have not tested the salt with a strip. Would either a high or low salt level cause it to shut off and display 0? I have a t9 cell and all configurations are setup correctly. I just get confused why it would work for a period of time and then no longer work.

    1. I meant to say my average salt level still reads 3100 but my instant salt level reads 0. Sorry for the confusion.

  76. My instantaneous salt reading has been dropping over the past several weeks. It is now down to 2000 ppm but the water tests at 3200. I can recalibrate the average to be correct but the instantaneous reading stays low. While generating the voltage (Voltage is actually 25.2 V). and amperage are within normal range for the T-15 cell that is installed. Is this an indication that the cell is going bad?

  77. Hi Matthew Simmons,

    Please help! My Aquarite is LED light won’t go on and when I turn the system to AUTO it trips the breaker. If I leave the system on OFF there’s numbers displaying on the screen which means there’s power but still there’s not LED lights on except the “no flow” light which flashes for about 60 seconds then stops. As soon as I turn on the system to AUTO the breaker trips a few minutes later.

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