To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that you open and visually inspect the cell every 3 months. Most salt chlorinators will remind you to do this by a flashing "Inspect Cell" light on the control box. Once removed, inspect the inside of the cell for scale build up or any debris that may have bypassed the filter. If no deposits are visable, reinstall. If deposits are seen, use a high pressure garden hose and try to flush the scale off. If this is not successful, use a plastic or wood tool (do not use metal as this will scratch the coating off the plates) and scrape deposits off of plates. If flushing and scraping are unsuccessful, a mild acid wash will be required. Please refer to your owner's manual for specific instructions. Most manufacturers suggest a 4:1 ratio of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of acid). Always add acid to water and never water to acid. Pour the solution into a container to a level where the solution will reach the top of the cell but not the cable (some cables can be removed from the cell). The cell should soak for a few minutes and then rinsed off with a garden hose. Reinstall cell once it is cleaned.
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Steph Posted: 5/26/2020
Looking for info on how to ‘shock’ a saltwater pool that is very green. Help? :)Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/23/2020
It is the same process to shock a saltwater pool as it is for a traditional chlorine pool. Take a look at this guide for How to Clean a Green Pool?Reply
Ted Posted: 4/23/2020
We recently bought a house with a saltwater pool and are new to pool maintenance. I have been using a digital salt meter and the paper test strips weekly to monitor the chemistry. Unfortunately I find it difficult to interpret the pH with the color coded test strips. Would a digital pH meter work in a saltwater pool?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/24/2020
Yes, a digital test kit can be used to measure pH on salt pools. We suggest the AquaChek TruTest Digital Reader - NP207.Reply
Alex Posted: 4/13/2020
BRAND NEW to Salt Pools; just bought a home with an in-ground pool with salt cell. The pool is approximately 10,000 gallons, and has the AquaRite Salt Chlorine Generator TurboCell just like in your video. We had a pool company come by to Open the pool last week, and though the system seems to be running efficiently; on the Generator Box, "Inspect Cell" and "Check Salt" lights are flashing. I took the cell off and sprayed it well with the hose, and there doesn't appear to be any scaling or buildup. My questions are: Does it need to be cleaned with Muriatic Acid? Do I need to add actual Pool Salt to the Pool? What other steps should I take?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/15/2020
First, I would test your pool water to determine if the salt levels are actually low; from there, you can take more direct action. If the salt level is low, add salt, then see if those lights go out. If the salt level is ok when you test it, give them cell a chemical soak in muriatic acid. If you continue to have troubles with the cell, I'd refer to this guide for troubleshooting: Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite SystemReply
Carl Posted: 4/1/2020
My water is clear but is a green color. What do I do to fix it?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/1/2020
Put simply, shock the pool, run your filter, then clean your filter. For an in-depth look into the process of clearing an algae bloom, review this guide and video: How to Clean a Green Pool?Reply
Anonymous Posted: 3/31/2020
New at salt pools: If the salt is turned into chlorine by the cell, does that mean that with time there would be less salt in the pool? And since there is continuous chlorine "production" by the cell, will that make the pool over-chlorinated?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/1/2020
The cell makes chlorine by splitting the salt molecule Sodium Chloride (NaCl) into its two base properties, Sodium and Chlorine. Eventually, those split atoms recombine to reform salt molecule in the pool. The loss of salt over time is due to backwashing, draining and refilling; each swimmer takes a tiny bit of salt with them when they leave the pool.Reply
Courtney Posted: 6/13/2019
We just put our 18 ft pool up yesterday we added shock and chlorine to the pool bc it is super green! But now considering switching to salt water. How many bags of salt would i need. And also what is the maintaince required for a salt water pool?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/13/2019
The amount of salt depends on the required salinity level for your salt system, and the starting salinity level of your water. Generally, it is a few hundred pounds of salt. Give this a look: Swimming Pool Salt CalculatorReply
Sharon Laner Posted: 5/20/2019
We are new to salt water pools. My husband was so excited to put salt in, he didn’t check levels. So no shocking was done. Our pool is 18 x 36 and we added 16 bags of salt. Our readings are 3800 and I have the output set at 20. I feel the 3800 is high, what should normal readings be? Do I have to add more water to bring down? Also was told I needed to add pepper, is that right? Please help me!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/20/2019
To lower the salt level, drain a portion of the water, then add in fresh water. But before you drain the water, look at your salt system's manual to determine the salt range it operates in. If the control's high salt light is not on, and the cell is producing chlorine, it is probably ok to leave the water as is.Reply
Mike Posted: 5/19/2019
What is the recommended water temperature for salt systems to perform efficiently?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/20/2019
The most common of the salt systems, the AquaRite has an operational range of 50 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the water within the 70-90 degree range, which is standard for most pools, and you will be doing fine.Reply
Ken Bouchard Posted: 5/10/2019
I am opening my salt water above ground pool for the season right now. I have reconnected the pump/filter system and raised the water level up to where it should be. With a salt water system, do I have to shock it, or just add more salt?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/13/2019
I would add a bag or two of shock to boost the chlorine level to help the cell during startup.Reply
Ben Atkinson Posted: 1/17/2019
My salt water pool us green why it happened over a couple of daysReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 1/17/2019
Hello Ben - There could be several reasons why your salt pool turned green. The salt cell might need to be cleaned or replaced. The water flow could have decreased so much that the flow switch turned the salt system off. Your cyanuric acid level or salt level could be low. You'll have to start looking at all these possibilities until you find the root cause.Reply
InyoPools Posted: 10/1/2018
Hello Ted - You can run the pump 24/7 but I'd recommend getting a pool timer with freeze protection. A freeze protection timer will turn the pump on automatically whenever the temperature approaches freezing levels.Reply
Linda Posted: 10/10/2018
Having a hard time getting salt regulated. It’s either too low or too high.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/10/2018
Hello Linda - salt levels should remain relatively stable unless you are experiencing heavy rainfall, backwashing repeatedly, or had a lot of swimmers. I would get the water tested by a local pool company for free to confirm the salinity level. Then add salt or dilute with fresh water as needed.Reply
Ted Posted: 9/30/2018
I live in northeastern North Carolina where it does get below freezing in the winter. Last year my pool actually froze. My pool guy has advised us to leave the pump on throughout the winter. Is this good advice?Reply
AF Max Posted: 1/12/2020
ALSO - a Variable-speed pump will be extremely beneficial for this as it will keep the water circulating at a lower flow rate, thus reducing your electric bill (i.e. the water will remain in continuous motion, reducing the freeze threat, but the pump will not be operating at full throttle, reducing wear and tear and the electricity required to keep it in operation 24/7).Reply
AF Max Posted: 1/12/2020
YES! It keeps the water circulating and reduces the propensity for it to freeze (standing/idle water will freeze MUCH more readily than moving water - and the salinity of the salt water will help reduces freezing as well).Reply
Matthew Posted: 9/5/2018
Hello Linda - it is completely fine to shock your saltwater pool. You may also want to run a Super-Chlorinate cycle during your shock treatment for an extra boost. Every little bit of chlorine helps.Reply
Linda Posted: 9/2/2018
We converted to a salt water system over 2 months ago (and love it). It's now September in GA and even tho the water temp didn't reach 90, we're starting to see some algae. We keep the pump running most of the time. I poured in a little algaecide but it didn't seem to make any difference. Is it OK to shock it? We're still learning the differences in salt vs chlorine maintenance. Thx for any advice.Reply
Harold Buchanan Posted: 1/31/2019
Linda, If you are getting some green algea and everything else check out okay then it may be your phosphates are getting high.Reply
Inyopools Posted: 6/7/2018
Hello Renita - There isn't a preferred sun screen for salt water pools. You can add a new tennis ball to the skimmer to help absorb some of the sun screen oil.Reply
Renita Posted: 6/5/2018
Question I have a Heated Salt water pool I live in AZ and I want to put on sun screen what kind do you recommend that will not harm my system?Reply
Inyopools Posted: 5/2/2018
Hello Lee - Since every pool system is different, there isn't a set pump speed for salt systems. It's going to take some testing on your part. Start on the lowest speed and slowly bring it up until the low flow/no flow indicator turns off on the salt system. That will let you know the minimum operating speed.Reply
Lee Posted: 5/1/2018
I'm upgrading my pool pump to a variable speed pump from a constant speed pump. I'm told the savings is primarily from controlling the pump to a lower speed (translating to less electricity) for the majority of operation time (when not at a higher speed to drive the pool cleaner). How low in speed roughly, or percent of full speed, can the pump operate and still generate chlorine through the salt cell? Thank youReply
Inyopools Posted: 3/26/2018
Hello KD - This is not something to be concerned about. We would recommend using something like Jack's Magic Magenta Stuff. It's great for new start-ups and will help keep that silica in suspension.Reply
KD Posted: 3/26/2018
Brand new pool, they put the salt in 2 weeks ago I'm starting to see what looks like a salt residual on the tile and on the removable thermometer. It feels like little bumps on the tile. The filer is on 10 hours a day, it's screened in. Should I be concerned?Reply
Inyopools Posted: 3/5/2018
Anonymous ( pool maint) - If you have had no problems at running for 10 hours a day, I would try dropping it to 8 hours during the summer and see it that works. In San Diego, it's hot enough that I would not run it less that 8 hours and I would run it every day.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 2/28/2018
We bought our home two years ago, we are in San Diego so it rarely gets to cold. We initially had a pool guy manage our pool, but I ended up taking over after a few months. I check the water weekly, and add salt or acid when needed. I have a local shop test my water monthly just to keep me on track. Its' always crystal clear. We have always run the pool/spa daily for about 10 hours. The spa spills into the pool and recirculates. The only time I've had an algae issue was when I accidentally left the system off for a week while traveling [shut it off to clean before we left and forgot to reset it]. It took a few days of scrubbing but eventually got everything clean. My question is, is recirculating the water daily for 10 hours necessary? I got a buddy up in the northern California [non-salt water pool] who only runs his three times a week for about four hours.Reply
Inyopools Posted: 2/25/2018
Steve - I haven't heard this. It may be something like not running your SCG when adding salt until the salt is dissolved. To be on the safe side, you could turn off your SCG until the granular PH reducer is dissolved.Reply
Steve Posted: 2/22/2018
Hello, I recently converted my pool to salt water and I have a lot of granular PH reducer left from my chlorine pool days. Someone told me not to use the granular PH reducer but to use Mureatic acid. Is this true? Should I not use the granular reducer? Thank you for any help!Reply
Inyopools Posted: 2/20/2018
Anonymous (chlorine in winter) _ Generally, when you close down a pool in the winter, you don't add chemicals until you open it back up in the spring. Algae is not as severe a problem when the temperature is cold.Reply