If you see water leaking out of the bottom of the pool pump assembly, it's a good indication that you may have to replace the shaft seal within the motor pump assembly. As shown in the pool pump cut away, the shaft seal is located in the motor pump assembly behind the impeller. Although this description is specific to a Hayward pool pump, many of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps.
The first step is to turn off all power to the pool pump. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.
Next you will want to remove the motor pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the four 9/16" bolts that bind the motor pump assembly to the housing. Note: some Hayward pool pump models have six bolts.
Now pull the assembly apart from the pool pump housing.
After the assembly is out, you should see the pool pump diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.
If the pool pump diffuser came out with the assembly, pull the diffuser off the assembly. You may have to pry it off gently with a screwdriver. Now you will see the pool pump impeller. The shaft seal is behind the impeller so you will now have to remove the impeller.
To remove the pool pump impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft.
Move to the other end of the motor shaft in the back of the motor assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the back cover onto the pool pump assembly.
You will see the pool pump motor wiring and capacitor. You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Capacitors store power. To avoid a possible shock, lay a screwdriver across the two leads to short out the capacitor. These capacitors sometimes burst when shorted out, so it is a good practice to place a cloth over the capacitor and to wear eye protection.
Now unscrew the single screw that hold the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.
Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the pool pump motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.
At the pool pump impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a strap wrench to gently free up the impeller.
Now you will see the motor shaft seal. One half on the pool pump impeller and the other half in the seal plate on the shaft.
Inspect the threads on the inside of the pool pump impeller. If these are badly worn, you will have to replace the impeller.
Stand the motor up on end and gently remove the white ceramic seal inside the seal plate. You may have to use a small screwdriver to gently pry out the seal. If the seal plate lifts off, it may be simpler to push the seal out of the seal plate from the other side.
Set the new seal on the shaft inside the seal plate - white side up. Be very careful NOT TO TOUCH the white ceramic side of the seal with your hands. If necessary, gently seat the seal with the blunt end of a screwdriver.
Grab the seal on the pool pump impeller and twist it off. Make a note of how the seal is positioned on the impeller so you know how to place the new seal. It is possible to place this seal upside down. Note: You may have to also have to remove the metal collar if the new shaft seal also has one. Several people have written in saying that the new seal won't fit because they were trying to place the new collar on top of the old one.
Now push the other half of the new seal onto the pool pump impeller. Place the new seal on in the same postion noted above. Again, DO NOT touch the bearing (top) surface of this seal.
With the wrench securing the back end of the motor shaft, screw the pool pump impeller back onto the shaft (clockwise). Hand tight is sufficient.
Inspect the diffuser gasket for wear. Replace if required. Put a thin coat of lubrication on the gasket.
Snap on the pool pump diffuser - no screws are required. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.
Slip the motor assembly into the housing.
Replace the four bolts evenly. If bolts were numbered 1 though 4, replace bolts in this sequence - 1, 3, 2, 4 - to ensure that the motor is set properly inside the housing. Loosely tighten bolts in this sequence, then go back and tighten them down again in this sequence. If pool pump has 6 bolts, replace bolts in this sequence - 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6.
Replace the capacitor on the backside of the assembly. Make sure the plastic strip is in place between the clip and capacitor so that the capacitor does not short out.
Replace motor cover and secure with two screws.
Prime pump by removing strainer lid and filling strainer with water. Replace lid.
Reset circuit breakers and start pool pump.
InyoPools Posted: 8/16/2018
Hello Lori - We have a guide titled "How to Replace the Governor on an A.O. Smith Motor". This would be the only content available that may help you reassemble the governor.Reply
Lori Posted: 7/15/2018
I used a wrench to hold around the governor to turn the impeller off and the springs fell off. We ended up taking off the governor, now in 4 pieces. Can you show me how to put it back on? Thanks!Reply
Anonymous Posted: 5/12/2018
This video was extremely helpful! Thank you for posting.Reply
Inyopools Posted: 10/13/2017
Takashi - No, water heated to 88-90 degrees would not damage your pump motor. It sounds like the bearings are going on your motor. This is usually due to the motor running dry for a period of time or failure to replace the shaft seal when a motor is replaced. The old shaft seal breaks down quickly and sprays the motor coils internally. If this is not the case, I’d talk to the supplier and see if they will replace the motor.Reply
Takashi Posted: 10/9/2017
Hi, I accidentally left my pool heater running for a week which heated the pool temperature to around 88-90 degrees. Now my pool motor makes a loud screeching noise. Do you think the water temperature ruin my motor? I just replaced the motor five months ago. Thank you.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/3/2017
Anonymous (shaft seal) - Thank you for your feedback. You are correct. The silver metal piece that is shown in the picture after the seal is removed, does have to be removed to allow the new metal piece to slide on. We do say this in the text, but it may be confusing with it not removed in the picture. I changed the picture.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 7/1/2017
Step 16 makes it look like the silver metal piece should remain on the impeller, but this piece is part of the replacement kit, embedded in the rubber/ceramic part with the spring. After some confusion, I pried this piece off using a small screwdriver blade. Then the kit part fit on perfectly. Now all is well, with a dry pump room floor for the first time this season.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/22/2017
Poolprobs - I know of now way to pressure check underground lines by yourself. Have you checked for a clogged impeller? That is one of the most common (and simple to fix) solutions to low water flow. See our guide on "How To Clean Out a Pool Pump Impeller".Reply
Poolprobs Posted: 6/20/2017
Since opening pool this year large amount of air bubbles coming from return jets. Pressure is steady 9/10 and color in pool is good, however it seems not enough suction from Skinner basket especially when trying to vacuum. Have changed vacuum hose, sealed o-ring, replaced pvc union at pump intake and tested for clog in Skimmer line with bladder hose and feeding snake through line. My water level is unchanged and no suds sucked on with soap water test. Is there a way to pressure test the underground lines myself? Otherwise I may be trying shaft seal replacement as last check? Not sure how else to better my suction?Reply
BBHY Posted: 6/4/2017
I just completed this whole process on my Hayward SP2510X15, It was working ok last winter, but this year I was getting bubbles coming through, The intake pipes seemed ok, so I bought the kit and followed your instructions,I'm happy to say it's back to working like normal. Thank you so much for the step-by-step instructions, I wouldn't have attempted this without them!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/10/2016
NC Pool Owner - Replace the housing gasket with a new one. Check for cracks around the housing where the gasket is placed. Then take the motor out again and check that the shaft seal is seated completely in the seal plate and that the two pieces of the seal are placed correctly.Reply
NC Pool owner Posted: 9/7/2016
I replaced the shaft seal and still have dripping under the motor. I replaced the diffuser gasket and lunricated the housing gasket. At a dead end on what is going on.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/19/2016
PJP - The spring portion of the seal slides over the hub of the impeller and the white ceramic portion slides into the seal plate which is the side which is closer to the motor.Reply
PJP Posted: 8/19/2016
Which way does the white ceramic portion of the shaft seal face?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/30/2016
LeeInHbg - I haven't heard of chemistry causing bubbles. As you say, you could have a blown pipe or connection underground. It doesn't take much of a break to create a suction leak even underground. You might have to have someone come out and pressure test your suction lines.Reply
LeeInHbg Posted: 6/29/2016
I've been battling continuous air bubbles in the pump strainer which also make it through to the returns as a quite obvious stream. Have gone through all suggestions from replacing and lubing all o rings, snugging up gate valves, applying silicone to plumbing joints plus replacing all pump seals o rings and lid. Stumped. Had a pool professional out. He thinks the problem is a chemistry issue. He gets the same results with his stand-alone pump bypassing all my plumbing. Note though that I question his test scenario since his suction side hose was in my skimmer enclosure, albeit loosely. Is this possible? We use a non-chlorinated product that is hydrogen peroxide based - bioguard softswim. The only other cause I can think of is blown pipes. Given they are underground I can't imagine that much air could be entering though. Thanks.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/10/2016
Mike - Sounds like you are doing good with motors. Not sure what you mean by "a weep hole at the bottom of the impeller assembly". The only possible "gap" under the impeller might be in the housing gasket. You might pull the motor out again to see if the gasket is seated properly.Reply
Mike Posted: 6/9/2016
I'm on my second motor in 6 years. This time I replaced all the gaskets and seals but I'm getting a drip out of the weep hole at the bottom of the impeller assembly. I have a Hayward super pump. Any sugesstions?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/7/2016
peejmeister - I would just wipe each of the surfaces good with a soft cloth.Reply
peejmeister Posted: 6/7/2016
I received a shaft seal set that came in a zip-lock bag. I'm concerned that the person who placed the seal into the bag may have inadvertently touched one or both of the seal surfaces.Is there a safe way to clean off any potential finger prints, etc.? Rubbing alcohol, perhaps?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/3/2016
Val in AZ - I would say that if your pool bubbles go away in 15 minutes, you are probably safe running the system. If you have a suction leak, the bubbles would not go away.Reply
Val in AZ Posted: 6/2/2016
Pump is appx 11 years old, doesn't leak anywhere. Pool has started having bubbles from the return jets when the pump starts up, they do go away after about 15 minutes. Replaced O ring on filter basket lid. Pressure is right where it should be. Any ideas?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/23/2016
danshoopty - I have not installed this type of motor. Try giving Jacuzzi a call at 450-250-4500. They should be able to help you.Reply
danshoopty Posted: 3/23/2016
I am trying to replace my pump motor on a Jacuzzi pump. I have the correct pieces installed where they should be and when I try to fit the pump into the proper position, the tabs around the ring will not go all the way into the motor housing with the large nut style retainer. Any advice?Reply
Jim Posted: 2/11/2016
Viewers be apprised that the impeller ring orientation shown in the video is incorrect. The broader, wider diameter end should be toward the pump end, not the motor end. I just had an email exchange with Inyo Pools outside of this blog and they confirm this. To clarify, I'm talking about the one piece, white, plastic impeller ring, not the impeller or seal.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 2/5/2016
bobthebuilder - We show using the plastic end of the screwdriver in the step by step guide. Like you say, I would not use a metal tool to press the seal into the plate as erroneously shown in the video. If you prefer using your finger, place a clean cloth over the ceramic seal face. The oil in your fingertip will cause the ceramic face to burn.Reply
bobthebuilder Posted: 2/4/2016
I have ordered a new motor and seal kit from INYOPOOLS and should be getting them today. I plan of doing the swap during the weekend. Your instructions are very clear and helpful. I do however have a question pertaining to the shaft seal replacement. You very strongly warn against touching the ceramic part as well as the graphite part (mating faces) with fingers. Instead you show seating of the ceramic seal using a screwdriver and pliers. On other sites, the warning is never to push the ceramic seal down using a screwdriver. Which is correct? As long a fingers are clean and free of grease etc, why is it not okay to touch the seal face? It seems that using metal tools to push down on the ceramic seal is more risky especially for inexperienced diy'ers. Please elaborate.Thanks,
Patrick
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/31/2015
Texas - I would take the motor out again and make sure the two halves of the seal are seated correctly especially in the seal plate. Also check that the two ceramic surfaces are placed together. It is possible to flip one or the other.Reply
Texas Posted: 8/29/2015
I replaced the shaft seal and now when the pump motor runs, it makes a load high-pitched squeal like the ceramic bearings are rubbing together causing a whine. The motor and impeller turns freely with no binding or drag. Could the new ceramic shaft seal be defective? I didn't touch it with my bare hands. Very loud noise.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/20/2015
replace shaft seal - If you get the capacitor out of the way, you should be able reach the flat part of the shaft to secure it. If your shaft has a slot on the end of it to place a screwdriver, use a large screwdriver to secure the shaft.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 8/18/2015
I have a Hayward Super Pump 1/12 HP. I was trying to replace all the gaskets on it. Mine does not have a place for a wrench, just for a screw driver. I have not been able to take it a part. Any suggestion's? ThanksReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/29/2015
JJinYardleyPA - With that much noise, the motor's bearings are probably going. But you may want to check that the impeller is not rubbing against the inside of the pump or debris between the impeller and the side. See the first part of our guide on "How To Replace A Pool Pump Impeller" for instructions on getting to the impeller.Reply
JJinYardleyPA Posted: 7/28/2015
I have a Pentair pump, (ironically) the Whisperflo model, which can now be heard inside the house on the 2nd floor with the windows closed and our AC on. It is NOT leaking any water... do you think the noise is from the seal, from the motor / bearings, or the pump head / impeller? Thanks...Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/27/2015
$400 mistake? - Not sure which metal tab broke off but I would guess it's not critical. Some of these tabs/posts are there to keep the wires from getting caught in the spinning governor under the switch. You would have to tuck that wire somewhere else.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 7/27/2015
I have a Hayward Super Pump. As I was putting in the wrench to hold the motor shaft, I had it at the wrong place. A small metal tab broke off above where the springs are, but it looks like the tab bumps up against a plastic piece for some reason. Did I just make a $400 mistake by breaking off this metal tab? If so, is there anything i can do to fix it now?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/22/2015
FrustratedPoolOwner - Yes, GOKIT3 or GOKIT3SALT are the GOKIT options for your Hayward Super Pump. If you have a salt water pool, I would recommend the salt version. The gaskets in that kit will hold up better against salt water. These kits come with all the gaskets and seals required for a motor replacement. I would replace the housing gasket first and see if that stops your leak. If not, then replace the shaft seal and other gaskets. Avoid running the pump dry (water level below skimmer etc). This will cause the shaft seal to fail and start spraying the motor.Reply
FrustratedPoolOwner Posted: 7/20/2015
My pump is a Hayward Super Pump Model# SP2610X15, and it is leaking from the bottom of the pump. It is only 14 months old (out of warranty by 2 months), so I hope this isn't a sign of things to come every year!! However, based on Google searches it looks like I am not alone. :-( Does the salt water cause this much corrosion to ruin the gaskets and shaft seal in such a short amount of time?I can't pinpoint if it's just leaking at the housing gasket or the shaft seal. Is there an easy way to tell? I've re-lubricated the housing and diffuser gaskets and made sure the bolts were tight; but haven't gone further into the motor yet until I decide what to order. Although the steps I described above have helped some, it is still leaking (more slowly than before) and I'm not getting as many air bubbles.
1. Is there something I'm overlooking that could be causing the leak besides what I've listed above?
2. Just to clarify, if I order the Tune Up Kit (GOKIT3/GOKIT3SALT), will it come with the shaft seal AND all the gaskets I will need to (hopefully) repair the leak?
3. What is the difference in the Salt Water Tune Up Kit and the regular version, besides one is made for salt water?
Thank you in advance for your time!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/30/2015
Richard - The pressure on the shaft seal should be positive when the pump is running. If you could see the seal leaking, you would see it spraying onto the motor. Your suction leak is somewhere in the piping between the pool and the front end of the pump, before the impeller.Reply
Richard Posted: 6/29/2015
I have an Haward Super Pump 1HP. When I stop the pump, I can see the floor becoming wet under the pump between the basket and the motor. I presume my seal gasket is leaking. However when the pump runs it remains completely dry but my pump is sucking air. At run time is the pressure on the shaft seal positive or negative? A negative pressure would explain my problem but I have not seen that being described anywhere on the web. The drain plugs of the pump are not leaking this I am sure.Thanks
Richard
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/26/2015
silly question - Yes, some water will flow out of the top of the filter, but that will fill again when your prime the pump. If you have an above ground pool, make sure you also plug the return port. This is not an issue for an in-ground pool since the pump/filter is above the surface of the pool and not gravity fed.Reply