Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.

This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.

Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON

The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:

  • The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.

How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED

  1. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:

  • Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:

  • The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Add Salt To Your Pool

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.

If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.

  

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

High Salt LED ON

The High Salt LED stays on when:

  • The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
  • You have too much salt in your pool.
  • The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.

How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size

  1. Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
  2. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
  3. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.

Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.

If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.

If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.

How To Lower Your Salt Levels

Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)

Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?

If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.

If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.

How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell 

Step 4: Reset the average salt level.

Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)

How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level

  1. To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
  2. After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
  3. Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.

If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.

No Flow LED Flashing or ON

The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.

  • If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
  • Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
  • Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
  • There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.

Possible Remedies

Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.

Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.

Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.

Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.

Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.

  • Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
  • The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
  • Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
  • Check for damaged or cut wires

Possible Remedies

Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.

Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.

Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.

Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.

Step 5: Replace your switch.

Low or High Cell Temperature

The LCD display reads COLD when:

  • Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)

The LCD display reads HOT when:

  • Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.

* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *

Other Common Problems and Solutions

Power LED Not On

  • Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
  • Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
  • If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
  • The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

‘Generating’ LED Flashing

  • The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
  • Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.

click here to find your replacement Salt System Parts

300 thoughts on “Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

  1. Question my Aquaririte is 3 years old. This week I notices that if I turn down the chlorine production rate….the display stops at 5…I can no longer get it to zero….I know I can turn off production by sliding the button down…but should I be worried?

  2. I have replaced the Aqua Rite printed circuit board and the T-Cell-9. Display seems to be reading correctly and shows the cell is not generating. None of the indicating lights are on. Even the power light is not on. I checked the 20A fuse and it is good. Any suggestions?

  3. I’ve replace the salt cell, circuit board, and flow switch and my Acurite is still reading high salt. I sent a sample to the store and my salt level is 3400 and the reading shown is 4300. Don’t know how to fix this. I’ve done the reset and it still showing 4300

  4. Hi, we just installed a new AquaRite unit and it has been running for 48 hrs The salt level is 3100 ppm (pool store also confirmed and tested the water, no issues detected with the water). I calibrated the unit to 3100 ppm. The unit works fine for approximately 4- 6 hours, then the Check Salt and Inspect Cell flashes (salt level on the unit reads 2600 ppm). Is there a break in period for the unit or do I need to call the technician? Thanks

  5. Hello, my salt generator seems to be always be producing at 100% no matter what my output dial is set at. All the readings (salt level, amps, etc) are in the correct range. Does the mother board need replacing? I have a t-15 cell.
    Thank you.

    1. Just a thought… Do you have it set at super chlorinate ? If so, it will always read 100%. Move switch to center position and adjust dial to a percentage that you think it needs.

  6. After connecting the device, the flow led flashes for one minute and turns off. At that moment the generation led turns on and turns off after a few seconds. All the leds remain off and the display shows the salt concentration 2900. At no time does the power led turn on. I checked the fuse and it’s good. The cell is new. Voltage cell is 10.7V and current is 0. Any idea of the problem??

  7. All components of the Aqua Rite System are showing good readings and appears to be all set correctly. However it is not generating enough chlorine and we are adding chlorine more than we should. Anyone have this issue or have any recommendations?

    1. Is this a new or older installation? If it is new, you may have undersized the cell, or your water chemistry is imbalanced, preventing the chlorine from working efficiently and effectively. If it an older installation, I would again check the water chemistry to make sure it is balanced correctly.

  8. just replaced t15 on a rev 1.45 aqua rite and the default salt reading now is ‘4’. Tried recalibration and no change. otherwise all else seems to read ok.

  9. I have perhaps a really basic question – I just cannot get one side of my salt cell to seal with the union. It won’t stop leaking. I replaced the o-ring and it still leaks out the same spot. I think the problem is a nick in the face of the salt cell that the union’s o-ring seals against, but I can’t feel anything there so it’s not like a giant burr or anything. Any ideas how to address this?

    1. I would try a couple of turns of Teflon tape on the threads to create a better seal. Without seeing the union and setup, it is hard to say what is causing it but check for warping of the nut.

  10. After troubleshooting using your TS guide, I found on page 36 where it says to check the top rectifier I have 24VAC from the board (where the orange wire plugs into) to the ground. Not the 12VAC that it says should be there. Is there something on the board I need to change? I have it set for a T9 cell. Please contact me at mbrad39972@hotmail.com

  11. I am getting 24VAC from top Rectifier to PCB Input, says it should be 12VAC. Is this rectifier bad?

  12. Aquarite is not powering up at all. 240v Input voltage is present. 24V after the transformer is present. 20amp fuse is not blown. Any suggestions?

  13. We have a Hayward Aqua Plus system. We are getting a reading o the remote stating chlorinator is turned off High Temperature. The salt cylinder is clean.

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