How to Install a Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generator

Written by:  Danny Rhodehamel
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 (4.34 OUT OF 5 STARS ON 3 RATINGS)

This guide provides a step-by-step procedure for installing a Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generator. Note: This guide is intended to give you a visual reference to supplement the Hayward owner's manual, not replace it. Make sure you read and understand your owner's manual before installing your unit.

Tips & Warnings

Video

Things You'll Need

Step by Step

Step 1
hayward aquarite

Balance the pool water before installing the Aqua Rite Salt Generator. Note: If the pool does not have new water, add one quart of metal remover and one quart of a non-copper based algaecide to the pool.

Step 2

Locate an area on the wall near the equipment for the Hayward Aqua Rite Control. The control must be mounted a minimum of 5' horizontal distance (or more, if local codes require) from the pool/spa. Locate the control box close to the pump timer. Keep in mind that the 15' cable of the salt cell, which will be installed on the return line, must be able to reach the control box. Note: It is important not to block the four sides of the control. DO NOT mount the Aqua Rite inside a panel or a tight enclosed area.

Step 3
aqua rite

Mark the locations for the four mounting screws. The control is designed to mount vertically on a flat surface with the knockouts facing downward.

Step 4
hayward aqua rite

Drill four holes where the mounting screws will be installed. Note: We used a special 3/16" carbide drill bit to drill into the concrete.

Step 5
install aquarite

Install screws (or other hardware appropriate for the mounting surface) through the two mounting holes at the bottom and the top of the Aqua Rite Salt Generator. Note: We used 1/4" x 1-1/4" hex head concrete anchors. Hex head anchors are recommended for better traction when installing into concrete.

Step 6

Your next step is to wire the power cord from the Hayward Aqua Rite panel to the pool timer. When wiring, be sure to follow local and NEC/CEC electrical codes. CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL ELECTRICTIAN IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING WITH POWER. Incorrect wiring can cause dangerous shocks and may void your warranty.

Step 7
wire aqua rite salt generator

Before wiring you will have to check the output power level at the timer going to your pump. It will be either 120VAC or 240VAC. In preparation for measuring your power, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE TIMER BOX. There should be a circuit breaker before the timer box where the power can be turned off.

Step 8

WITH POWER OFF, remove the cover over the screw connectors inside the timer box.

Step 9
install aquarite

This picture shows the wiring inside the timer box. Three wires come in from the left of the box. Two are labeled INPUT and one GROUND. There are 5 terminals in the timer box. The left most is GROUND. The other four are labeled 1 to 4. The INPUT wires are connected to 1 and 3. The OUTPUT wires to 2 and 4. The OUTPUT wires are currently wired to the pump. Note: The timer pictured is an Intermatic 220v T104 timer. Please refer to your timer's manual for guidance.

Step 10
hayward aqua rite

To measure your voltage level, TURN ON POWER back on at circuit breaker. Set your digital multimeter to 300 VAC and place the meter's probes on the OUTPUT terminals, 2 and 4. It does not matter which probe is placed on which terminal. Be careful not to let the probes short out between two adjacent terminals. The meter should read close to 240VAC if your power is 240VAC - 120VAC if the timer is using 120VAC.

Step 11

TURN OFF POWER at the breaker and replace the cover

Step 12

Now that the voltage has been confirmed, the next step will be wire the Aqua Rite control box to the timer. Open the Aqua Rite control box and remove the two screws that secure the blue cover panel. Remove the blue cover panel.

Step 13
aquarite

In order to determine the correct wiring connection, refer to the label on the inside door of the Aqua Rite control box. The Aqua Rite is shipped from the factory with the configuration jumpers in the 240V position. Note: If using 120V, move the jumpers to the configuartion listed on the wiring diagram.

Step 14

Remove one of the knockouts located near the wiring connections of the Aqua Rite control box.

Step 15
hayward aqua rite

Thread a 1/2" mpt terminal adapter into the knockout of the control box.

Step 16
salt generator

Feed the cable through the terminal adapter and into the Aqua Rite control box. Note: We used 12-3 AWG cable for this 220v installation.

Step 17

Connect the individual lines to the correct terminals. For 220v, connect the ground line to the green screw, the black to terminal one, and the white to terminal four. For 110, the jumpers most be moved and then the wires can be connected in the same order.

Step 18

Reinstall the blue cover panel onto the Aqua Rite control box.

Step 19
aqua rite salt generator

Measure the distance from the Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Generator control box to the timer. Cut a piece of 1/2" electrical conduit to the correct distance.

Step 20

Feed the cable from the Aqua Rite control box through 1/2" conduit. Push the one end of the conduit into the terminal adapter on the control box. Note: We recommend using a little bit of dish soap to lubricate the cable. This will make it much easier to feed it through the conduit.

Step 21

Your next step is to wire the power cord from the control box to the timer box as shown in the picture to the left. Feed the cable through the adapter terminal. For Intermatic T104 timers, connect the white wire to terminal 2, black to terminal 4, and the ground line to the ground terminal. Note: For different 220v timers or 110v timers, please refer to your timer's manual for wiring instructions.

Step 22
install pool salt system

Ground the Hayward Aqua Rite control box. Using an 8AWG conductor, connect the grounding lug on the right side of the Del Eclipse to an appropriate earth contact. Failure to adequately bond your power unit can lead to severe electrical shocks. Note: This bonding wire is installed in addition to your normal grounding process (green wire). You need both per code.

Step 23
hayward salt system

Connect the opposite end of the control box ground line to the external ground line of the pump. The external ground line is located on top of the motor. The external ground line for the motor may have a protective green sleeve. Remove an inch of the green sleeve so that the copper line is exposed. The two lines must be touching in order for the system to be properly grounded. Note: We used a copper split bolt to ensure a solid connection between the two lines.

Step 24

The next steps will illustrate how to install the Aqua Rite salt cell and flow switch on the return line. They will need to be installed after (downstream) all the pool equipment (filter, heater, etc.).

Step 25

For most installations, we recommend installing the flow switch after (downstream) of the cell. The flow switch can be installed before or after the cell but there must be 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. The cell counts as 12" of straight pipe if installed directly before the flow switch.

Step 26
hayward aqua rite

Connect the salt cell and flow switch by gluing a short piece of schedule 40 pipe between the two. Make sure the arrow of the flow switch is pointing in the direction of the flow of the water. Gluing is a two step process. First apply a thin but even coat of purple primer on each surface to be joined: the outside of the pipe and the inside of the union/flow switch. After the primer has dried, apply a thin even coat of glue to both surfaces. Immediately push the pipe all the way into the union/flow switch and twist 1/4 turn to spread the glue. Hold the pipe in place for 30 seconds until the glue sets. Note: 2" pvc will not require a reducer but 1.5" will require a reducer on the flow switch and salt cell.

Step 27

Measure the total length of the salt cell and flow switch. With that measurement, find the correct spot in the return line (after the equipment) and cut out the properly measured section of pvc pipe. Keep in mind that the section of pipe removed should be approximately 2-1/2" shorter than the length of the switch and cell. This takes into consideration that some of the pvc plumbing will slip into the flow switch and salt cell.

Step 28
install salt generator aqua rite

Glue the salt cell and flow switch into the section of return line that was removed in Step 27.

Step 29

Plug the cable from the flow switch into the jack located at the bottom of the Hayward Aqua Rite control box.

Step 30

Turn on the the power to the timer box.

Step 31
aqua rite

This step does not apply to customers installing a T-Cell-15. The Aqua Rite Salt Generator comes from the factory preset for a T-Cell-15. If installing a T-Cell-3 or T-Cell-9, the configuration of the control box MUST BE changed in order to be able to control the correct cell. To do this, place the power switch in the “Auto” position and then press the diagnostic button eight times from the default (salt display) screen. You should see “t-15” displayed. Slide the power switch between the “Auto” and "Super Chlorinate” positions until your particular cell’s number is displayed, then press the diagnostic button one more time to return to the salt display screen. Your Aqua Rite is now configured correctly to operate your particular cell.

Step 32

Plug the cable from the salt cell into the Hayward Aqua Rite control box.

Step 33

The next steps will involve adding the salt to the pool. It is important to use only sodium chloride (NaCl) salt that is greater than 99% pure. This is common food quality salt or water softener salt and is usually available in 40-80 pound bags. DO NOT use rock salt, salt with yellow prussiate of soda, salt with anti-caking additives, or iodized salt.

Step 34
pool salt systems

Using a salt water test strip, measure the current salt level of your pool. For the Hayward Aqua Rite generators, the ideal level is 2700-3400 ppm (3200 ppm is optimal). If the level is low, determine the number of gallons in your pool and add salt according to the Salt Table located in the owner's manual. For example, if your pool has 15,000 gallons of water and your current salt level is 0, you need to add 427 lbs of salt.

Step 35
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Before adding the salt, move the power switch on the Aqua Rite control box to the "Off" position. Keep this in the "Off" position until the salt is completely dissolved. This may take 24 hours.

Step 36

While the pump is running, walk around the pool and pour in the salt. Brush the salt around to speed up the dissolving process. Run the pump for 24 hours with the suction coming from the main drain (use pool vac if there is no main drain) to allow salt to evenly disperse. Note: For new plaster pools, wait 10-14 days before adding salt. This allows the plaster to cure.

Step 37
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After the salt has dissolved and the salt level is between 2700-3400 ppm, move the power switch on the Aqua Rite control box to the "Auto" position.

Step 38

Adjust the "Desired Output %" dial to 50%. Test the chlorine level every few days and adjust the dial up or down accordingly. It usually takes 2-3 adjustments to find the ideal setting for your pool/spa and after that, it should only take minor, infrequent adjustments.

Step 39

A green light next to "Power" and "Generating" will illuminate if everything is working correctly. The installation is now complete. Enjoy your new Hayward Aqua Rite salt chlorine generator!

Comments (1 to 24 of 24)

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User: Inyopools

Two T-cell 15s - I do not think the control box can be wired to recognize two T-cell 15s at the same time, but you should call Hayward/Goldline at 866-772-2100 to see if they have a different answer.

User: 

I have 2 t-cell 15 salt cells install (side by side configuration) in a new pool build. my pool (residential) is over 50,000 gals which is why we have 2 salt cells. the prologic panel only has a "slot"/jack for 1 salt cell "plug". how do I get both cells to be recognized by the prologic?

User: Inyopools

Bob - The hot wire can go to either 1 or 4. The jumpers have to be wired as shown in step 13 of this guide.

User: Bob

After converting to 120v. Where does the hot wire go?

User: Inyopools

Acold - Please call Hayward/Goldline at 908 351-5400 X7961.They should be able to provide this information.

User: Acold

My Swimpure plus cell needed cleaning. Upon reinstall the check cell light was still flashing. I did a reset and accidentally changed the t-xx number for the cell from whatever it originally was. Is there a way to determine if I have a 3,9 or 15 cell? No notation is on the cell itself and I'm not the original owner so don't have the paperwork from the install. Thanks

User: Inyopools

Newby – Your SCG should not be on if it doesn’t have sufficient water flow so you do need an operation flow switch. Here’s our link to the switch: Goldline / AquaLogic Flow Switch 15' Cable (No Tee) (GLX-FLO-RP). Note: this flow switch is also used on the AquaRite systems. Check our comment in the FAQs section on this page for directions on how to test the current switch to make sure it is bad before you replace it. You do not have to replace the “T” fixture. The flow switch screws out of the top of the “T” for replacement.

User: Newby

My Aqua Rite SCG system has been working well for years (although I did have to replace the cell 10 months ago). 3 weeks ago the wall panel lights for both Check Cell and No Flow came on. It seemed that I had excellent flow by observing the pool jets but I felt perhaps the cell (which had not been inspected for 6 months) might have a lot of junk in it. I removed and cleaned the cell and did the mild acid treatment and then reinstalled it. The Check Cell light went out but the No Flow light was still on. I called support and was told that I might have a bad flow meter and to check I could use an old telephone cord with the wires connected to each other. If using this wire made the No FLow light go out I needed a new meter...well the light did go out.
Question: How important is the flow meter for cell functioning? If it is absolutely necessary, do I have to cut out the old and reinstall a new length of PVC? Where do I get a new flow meter.
Thanks.

User: Inyopools

KristenMWClark - The "Generating" LED should go off when you switch to "OFF". You might try replacing the switch. In the meantime turn you "Desired Output %" to 1.

User: KristenMWClark

My chlorine has been high, so I switched the chlorinator to "Off" about 4 weeks ago. My chlorine is still high. I noticed the "Generating" light is still illuminated even though my box is OFF. Is it still generating and that's why my chlorine hasn't come down yet? Or is it always illuminated even while it's not generating chlorine? Thanks for the help!

User: Inyopools

Jumpers - A jumper is a short connector to wire two terminals together. In Step 17, it is the connector between terminals 2 and 3 that is used for 240V wiring. See Step 13 or the label the inside door of the Aqua Rite control box. If your are wiring your unit for 240V, use a jumper between terminals 2 and 3 as shown. If you are wiring for 120V, you need two jumpers: one between 1 and 2; and one between 3 and 4. If you don't have the original jumpers that came with the unit, you can use short 12-gauge wires.

User: 

Step 17 - What is a jumper? What does it look like? Where is it?

User: Inyopools

gregg - Generally when a salt reading sticks on one number, like 2500, your SCG unit has damaged hardware components or needs reprogramming. Call the manufacturer, Hayward/Goldline, at 908-355-7995 for further information, or see our guide on "How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite"

User: gregg

i have a 11000 gallon pool with a t-3 swim pure plus system installed, the problem im having is im getting a reading of 2500 from my swg, i went to 3 different pool stores to get my water tested and i get readings of 4000-3200-2580. ive also had the cell tested and it was fine. my clorine is way low due to the swg not working ( i have it in the off position right now) i tend to believe the last pool store that had a test of 2580 since my swg is reading 2500. i have added 60 lbs of salt on saturday and 24 hours later im still getting a reading of 2500 on my swg. just for kicks i purchased a salt water test strip kit and im getting a reading of 3800..im bout to throw in the towel and go back to 3" pucks.

User: Inyopools

John - Try holding the diagnostic button for 3 seconds to clear the "inspect cell" LED. If that doesn't work, check your salt level. If your salt level is good, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

User: John

The "Check Cell" light has been on. I have rinsed the cell with water but it's still lit. What else should I try.

User: Inyopools

astbyk - Here's a copy of the AquaRite Salt Chlorine Generator Owner's manual. Explanation of displays starts on page 7.

User: astbyk

We installed the Hayward Aqua Rite In-ground Chlorine Generatr with the T-Cell 15. Could you please tell me what the different read-outs mean on the Aqua Rite. I know which one indicates the sale level and I think one is the pool temp but not sure what the other numbers mean. Help!

User: Inyopools

Generating Light - If your SCG is operating correctly and there is sufficient water flow, the generating light should be on for any setting.

User: 

Will the generating light be solid green all the time? Even when the dial is at 10%? and not really generating any CHL?

Thanks

User: Inyopools

Bobh - Sounds like you are working off a high level of chlorine that was is your pool prior to installing your SCG. Your pool should be settling in at 1-3 ppm free chlorine. It may take a week or so to adjust.

User: Bobh

I just installed an Aqua Rite with T3 cell 3 days ago. My salt reading is 3200 ppm. 10K gal pool with 1.5 Superpump. I initially set the dial @ 50% and took a reading the Chlorine is at 10 ppm. The pump is set to run 6 hrs. Each day I lowered the dial I'm at 22% and the chlorine is still around 9-10. Is this normal? What setting will it normally settle at? The water temp is currently 79%
Thanks

User: Inyopools

Brandon - The Salt Chlorine Generator has to be the last piece of equipment installed in your return line. The concentrated chlorine from the SCG will deteriorate the gaskets and working parts of the filter and any other units installed after the filter.

User: Brandon Snodgrass

The plumbing at my filter is pretty restricted for space after the filter but there's a good straight stretch before the filter to mount the tcell. What kind of negative impact could I expect if I mounted the cell in line before the filter?

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