How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump


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Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient and cheaper to run. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you may may want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not that difficult. Although this quide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If your are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.


Step by Step


Step 1

To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump

Step 2

Also look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. Please feel free to call toll free at 1-877-372-6038 and one our friendly staff can help you determine the proper motor for your pool pump.

Step 3

We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 4

Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements

Step 5

As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections

Step 6

Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.

Step 7

Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 8

Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.

Step 9

Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.

Step 10

Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.

Step 11

Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.

Step 12

To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.

Step 13

Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.

Step 14

Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.

Step 15

Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.

Step 16

Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.

Step 17

Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow

Step 18

The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.

Step 19

Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.

Step 20

Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.

Step 21

To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.

Step 22

You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.

Step 23

Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.

Step 24

At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 25

Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.

Step 26

Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.

Step 27

Lift off the motor mounting plate.

Step 28

Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.

Step 29

You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.

Step 30

Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.

Step 31

Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.

Step 32

Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.

Step 33

Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 34

Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.

Step 35

Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.

Step 36

Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.

Step 37

Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.

Step 38

Replace capacitor.

Step 39

Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.

Step 40

Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.

Step 41

Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.

Step 42

Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.

Step 43

Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.

Step 44

Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.

Step 45

Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.

Step 46

Screw on electrical conduit collar.

Step 47

Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.

Step 48

Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.

Step 49

Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 50

Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.

Step 51

Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.

Step 52

Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.

Step 53

Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.

Step 54

Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.

Step 55

Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.


(81 to 120 of 178)

 Posted: 5/1/2016 

I cant thank you enough! For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to detach the motor from the housing. Thank you Thank you Thank you ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Joe

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/18/2016 

John - Check to make sure your incoming voltage is 115 and not 230. If it is, the motor should be covered by warranty. If you bought it from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/18/2016 

motor ID - I couldn't find anything on the Sta Rite numbers you gave me. There should be a part number stamped into the impeller. See our guide on "How to identify your Pool Motor without the label" for more information.

 Posted: 4/16/2016 

I installed new motor, primed and pumped great for 10 min. Then "pop" blew capacitor and one of the yellow leads to the capacitor was burnt in half. I switched the setting from 230 to 115 because that's the way the old was wired. Replaced that one myself about 10 years ago

Anonymous  Posted: 4/15/2016 

Hello and Thanks for the great video and step by step for replacing the motor; I was in middle of doing just that and was having problem figuring out how to get Inpelor off and then found your site and instruction guide. Thanks so much.. I was curious if you might know where i could find out exactly what motor it is that I have because all the labels are gone off pump and motor except stamped tag on the pump housing indicating Sta-Rite Model P456E-151L Code: 1F93M Waterford, WI I am not sure how to find out which motor it is so i can find replacement. Any suggestions you might have are greatly appreciated.. Thanks again for great guide..

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/29/2016 

no flow - If the pump will not prime, see our guide on " How To Prime a Pool Pump". If you are not getting sufficient flow, see our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Also, check to make sure you installed the impeller correctly when you replaced the motor.

Anonymous  Posted: 2/28/2016 

Installed motor seems to be running okay but does not pump water

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/2/2016 

Vince - Look at steps 8, 9, and 16 on our guide for "How To Install an In-Line Salt Chlorine Generator". It's specifically for installing a SCG but the voltage measurement and power hookup is the same for a pump motor. The output lines on the timer are actually going to both the SCG and the pump. See our guide on "How To Replace an Intermatic T104 Clock Motor" for information on the timer motor. It sounds like you already know but the T104 is for 220V and the T101 is for 110V.

 Posted: 1/31/2016 

Had pool pump motor replaced by pool service people. Now timer no longer works. Intermatic 104 timer is not grounded and not wired to schematic. There is no 110V connection at terminal 4 which makes me believe the replacement motor is wired 115V. How can I validate voltage and how can I test 208V clock motor for functionality? Service is 220V (single phase) with FPL priority switch in the circuit. Thank you in advance for your advice. Vince

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/5/2016 

Callie Marie - You might try it yourself first and if you get stuck have a professional come in and fix it. If you haven't worked with electricity before, you might better have a professional do it or have an electrician check it after you are done.

 Posted: 1/4/2016 

Thanks for the great guide for replacing the motor in my pump! It hasn't been working properly for weeks, and I have determined that it is most likely due to the motor. Even though you provide detailed step-by-step pictures, I'm still nervous about doing it myself. Would it be worth it to hire a professional to actually come and install the motor for me? 

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/28/2015 

motor on/off - It sounds like the supply voltage to your motor does not match the motor's voltage configuration. Change the motor's voltage configuration.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/27/2015 

208 V
HP 1.25
PH 1
RPM 3450
FR 48Y- I need a motor with these specs. It's to replace a whisperflo square flange motor. The one that's on thee now turns on and turns off. It continues to do that all day. The motor was just replaced 5 days ago. Can you please help... Thanks!


InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/17/2015 

dj - If the only thing you changed in your system was replacing the motor, I would concentrate on the pump. If your filter worked before the motor change, it should be working now. Same for suction leaks. Those would be a typical source of your problems, but I assume you didn't change anything on the suction side of the pump when you replaced the motor. I would take the motor out again and check that the impeller and diffuser are in place correctly and that the diffuser gasket in also in place.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/16/2015 

connected new Hayward motor turned it on but can't get it to backwash or return was told to bleed air tried for hrs but no result what can I do

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/3/2015 

smoke - Some part of your motor's electrical system is failing or has failed. Take the electrical cover off of the back of the motor and look for burn marks around the electrical components or wiring. It could also mean shorts in the motor windings. When a motor smokes, it's probably time to replace it.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/1/2015 

Why would motor smoke?

 Posted: 7/29/2015 

Excellent instructions for replacing a pool motor. I will tell everyone I know who has a pool about your website. My only regret is I didn't find your website sooner. I've had my pool about 15 years.

 Posted: 7/18/2015 

Excellent instructions!! I wish all the "How Tos" on the web were as good as this. I have just replaced my pool pump for the second time - lightning zapped it this time - using these instruction and it was a breeze/ Bought the replacement pump today (with seals/gasket set) and four hours later the pump is running again. Thank you very much. My only comment is that I had to use a smaller wrench than 7/16ths to lock the motor shaft.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/30/2015 

Jay - See our guide on "How To Install an Intermatic T104 Timer". Step #14 shows you how to hook up the "Lines" into the timer and Step #20 shows you how to hook up the "Loads" to the pump.

 Posted: 6/29/2015 

In hooking up a motor to the timer...the motor has three wires, green for ground, and two red leads to be hooked up to the timer. The timer has 5 terminals, 1 for common, Line 1, Load 1, Line 2 and Load 2. I want to hook up my two red leads to the timer. Where do they go? Line 1 and Line 2 ? Or What are the two Load lines for? Please elaborate for me.

 Posted: 6/29/2015 

I am replacing the motor and noticed a red wire from a micro switch from the top side of the timer came off the terminal...My problem is i don't know which lead it came off from? One is still on a terminal but other is just hanging close by...Which lead would it connect to?

Does it matter which red wire goes to whatever terminal on the timer? The motor has three wires to for ground, red hot and other red for the red wired connect to Line 1, and Line 2? on the clock terminal? or does it matter?


InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/22/2015 

Gill - Two possibilities: Can you replace the bonding lug? - unscrew the old one off the motor or relocated it to another hole on the motor. Or is there enough of a stub of wire where it was cut off that you could clamp the bonding wire on to with a split bolt. See "How To Add a Line to the Pool Bonding Wire".

 Posted: 6/22/2015 

This seems pretty straightforward, the pictures help greatly. One thing I noticed, the bonding lug on my pump is rusted up tight (WD-40 was useless). I was able to cut the bonding wire very close to the bonding lug in order to get it worked on, but a a piece of the wire is now stuck in the lug. How would you recommend safely reconnecting?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/17/2015 

Rob - See Step 30 of our guide on "How to Replace a Single Speed Motor with a 2Green Motor". One wire will go to L1, the other to L2.

 Posted: 5/15/2015 

Hi, replacing my motor with the 2Green 2 speed. I had a single speed motor with all the same specs as the new one. My old motor had the red wire hooked up to the A terminal and the black wire hooked to the B terminal. This new motor has an A terminal, L1 and L2. Does the red wire go to A and the black to either L1 or L2?

Thanks, Rob


Anonymous  Posted: 5/12/2015 

Thx much. Your video saved the day.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/5/2015 

beachin - Not sure why this isn't fitting. Both motors have the same frame, 56J, and we show the new motor being ~1/3 of an inch shorter. old SP1610Z1 = 13.35 and new B2977 = 13.03. Incidentally, your new motor is a 2-speed and the recommended equivalent 2-speed motor for this Hayward Northstar pump is SPX1610Z2MNS.

 Posted: 5/5/2015 

I am replacing a B2977 motor on Hayward Sp4010NS from a SP1610Z1. The new motor is longer and having trouble getting it to go into the motor assembly. It won't fit. Any help please... Thanks

 Posted: 5/3/2015 

Bought my motor last fall when the other one died and finally got around to replacing it once all the snow melted. Followed these instructions and had no problems. It was nice to have the gasket and seal kit that was recommended. Total time to replace and turn on was 2-3 hours. Thanks.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/9/2014 

Dave L - You should not run your pump with the motor unsupported. Generally pumps are sold with an insert for the mount so that you can add it to support a smaller motor. See if your mount has an inset added to it that you can remove to accommodate the larger diameter motor. If this doesn't work, see if you can buy a separate replaceable mount that can attach to the bottom of the pump.

 Posted: 12/6/2014 

I have a Sta-Rite Dyna-Glas 1.5 HP motor I'm replacing on a Sta-Rite Pump. I got a new 1.5 HP US Motor at the pool store and all went great until I tried to install it on the pump. The diameter of the new motor is larger and won't fit in the pump's stand. What do I do, Cut the stand apart, discard the stand under the motor, install the motor and let it hang off the pump?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/24/2014 

CCWPE - You are correct. The impeller is screwed on clockwise when viewed from the pump end, and the pump will rotate in a counter-clockwise direction when viewed from the pump end. I have no answer for how your impeller came off. An AC motor like these cannot be wired to reverse in the wrong direction. When the motor is in rotating, it will be tighten the impeller onto the shaft.

Anonymous  Posted: 11/23/2014 

Which direction should a Hayward Super Pump 2HP rotate - Clockwise or Counterclockwise? I replaced the impeller and noticed that you screw it on clockwise but the motor rotates counterclockwise and the impeller spun off and damaged the defuser.

 Posted: 10/19/2014 

used this for my college work !! all great stuff earned me a 2/1 :) thanks

 Posted: 7/26/2014 

Great Video! I watched this on and off all day today as I sucessfully changed my pump. I noted the comments of check the wiring so I did a foto before to examen. I am not the most mechanical but your video stepped me through, I had a Pentair wisper which is slightly different, but you still got me Though! AWESOME!

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/25/2014 

Check the power at the motor with a meter to make sure you are getting power to the motor. Make sure that the supply power matches how you have set up you motor. If you have 115V coming from the breaker box, make sure that your motor is set up for 115V. Make sure your wires are tight on the motor terminals.


 Posted: 7/24/2014 

Just installed new motor, getting power to both timer and motor yet it won't start... Any ideas?

Anonymous  Posted: 7/19/2014 

Very "VERY" helpful, thank you for sharing and taking the time to help out others, you are appreciated.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/9/2014 

overheated motor - Check to make sure that the supply voltage to your pump matches the voltage your pump is set for. If you are operating off an extension code ,l make sure it is heavy enough to carry the current to your pump. See our guide, "How To Troubleshoot a Pool Pump Motor - Motor Overheated", for other possible causes.