How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

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How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

WRITTEN BY: Inyo Pools

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Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you'll want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not difficult. Although this guide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have an electrician wire your pump for you. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.

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Step 1

To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump.

Click Here to View Hayward Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Pentair/Pac-Fab Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Sta-Rite Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Jacuzzi Pool Pump Motors

Step 2

Also, look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. If you need help determining the correct replacement motor for your pool pump, use the chat feature in the lower left corner of the screen or submit a ticket by clicking here.

Step 3

We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 4

Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements

Step 5

As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections

Step 6

Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.

Step 7

Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 8

Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.

Step 9

Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.

Step 10

Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.

Step 11

Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.

Step 12

To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.

Step 13

Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.

Step 14

Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.

Step 15

Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.

Step 16

Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.

Step 17

Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow

Step 18

The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.

Step 19

Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.

Step 20

Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.

Step 21

To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.

Step 22

You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.

Step 23

Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.

Step 24

At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 25

Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.

Step 26

Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.

Step 27

Lift off the motor mounting plate.

Step 28

Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.

Step 29

You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.

Step 30

Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.

Step 31

Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.

Step 32

Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.

Step 33

Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 34

Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.

Step 35

Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.

Step 36

Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.

Step 37

Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.

Step 38

Replace capacitor.

Step 39

Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.

Step 40

Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.

Step 41

Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.

Step 42

Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.

Step 43

Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.

Step 44

Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.

Step 45

Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.

Step 46

Screw on electrical conduit collar.

Step 47

Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.

Step 48

Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.

Step 49

Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 50

Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.

Step 51

Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.

Step 52

Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.

Step 53

Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.

Step 54

Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.

Step 55

Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.

Click Here to View our Replacement Pool Pump Motors

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(121 to 160 of 198)

Jay Posted: 6/29/2015
In hooking up a motor to the timer...the motor has three wires, green for ground, and two red leads to be hooked up to the timer. The timer has 5 terminals, 1 for common, Line 1, Load 1, Line 2 and Load 2. I want to hook up my two red leads to the timer. Where do they go? Line 1 and Line 2 ? Or What are the two Load lines for? Please elaborate for me.
Reply

Jay Posted: 6/29/2015
I am replacing the motor and noticed a red wire from a micro switch from the top side of the timer came off the terminal...My problem is i don't know which lead it came off from? One is still on a terminal but other is just hanging close by...Which lead would it connect to?

Does it matter which red wire goes to whatever terminal on the timer? The motor has three wires to connect...green for ground, red hot and other red for hot...do the red wired connect to Line 1, and Line 2? on the clock terminal? or does it matter?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/22/2015
Gill - Two possibilities: Can you replace the bonding lug? - unscrew the old one off the motor or relocated it to another hole on the motor. Or is there enough of a stub of wire where it was cut off that you could clamp the bonding wire on to with a split bolt. See "How To Add a Line to the Pool Bonding Wire".
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Gill Posted: 6/22/2015
This seems pretty straightforward, the pictures help greatly. One thing I noticed, the bonding lug on my pump is rusted up tight (WD-40 was useless). I was able to cut the bonding wire very close to the bonding lug in order to get it worked on, but a a piece of the wire is now stuck in the lug. How would you recommend safely reconnecting?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/17/2015
Rob - See Step 30 of our guide on "How to Replace a Single Speed Motor with a 2Green Motor". One wire will go to L1, the other to L2.
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Rob Posted: 5/15/2015
Hi, replacing my motor with the 2Green 2 speed. I had a single speed motor with all the same specs as the new one. My old motor had the red wire hooked up to the A terminal and the black wire hooked to the B terminal. This new motor has an A terminal, L1 and L2. Does the red wire go to A and the black to either L1 or L2?

Thanks, Rob
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Anonymous Posted: 5/12/2015
Thx much. Your video saved the day.
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/5/2015
beachin - Not sure why this isn't fitting. Both motors have the same frame, 56J, and we show the new motor being ~1/3 of an inch shorter. old SP1610Z1 = 13.35 and new B2977 = 13.03. Incidentally, your new motor is a 2-speed and the recommended equivalent 2-speed motor for this Hayward Northstar pump is SPX1610Z2MNS.
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beachin Posted: 5/5/2015
I am replacing a B2977 motor on Hayward Sp4010NS from a SP1610Z1. The new motor is longer and having trouble getting it to go into the motor assembly. It won't fit. Any help please... Thanks
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erik Posted: 5/3/2015
Bought my motor last fall when the other one died and finally got around to replacing it once all the snow melted. Followed these instructions and had no problems. It was nice to have the gasket and seal kit that was recommended. Total time to replace and turn on was 2-3 hours. Thanks.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 12/9/2014
Dave L - You should not run your pump with the motor unsupported. Generally pumps are sold with an insert for the mount so that you can add it to support a smaller motor. See if your mount has an inset added to it that you can remove to accommodate the larger diameter motor. If this doesn't work, see if you can buy a separate replaceable mount that can attach to the bottom of the pump.
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Dave L Posted: 12/6/2014
I have a Sta-Rite Dyna-Glas 1.5 HP motor I'm replacing on a Sta-Rite Pump. I got a new 1.5 HP US Motor at the pool store and all went great until I tried to install it on the pump. The diameter of the new motor is larger and won't fit in the pump's stand. What do I do, Cut the stand apart, discard the stand under the motor, install the motor and let it hang off the pump?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 11/24/2014
CCWPE - You are correct. The impeller is screwed on clockwise when viewed from the pump end, and the pump will rotate in a counter-clockwise direction when viewed from the pump end. I have no answer for how your impeller came off. An AC motor like these cannot be wired to reverse in the wrong direction. When the motor is in rotating, it will be tighten the impeller onto the shaft.
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Anonymous Posted: 11/23/2014
Which direction should a Hayward Super Pump 2HP rotate - Clockwise or Counterclockwise? I replaced the impeller and noticed that you screw it on clockwise but the motor rotates counterclockwise and the impeller spun off and damaged the defuser.
Reply

steve.H Posted: 10/19/2014
used this for my college work !! all great stuff earned me a 2/1 :) thanks
Reply

ty Posted: 7/26/2014
Great Video! I watched this on and off all day today as I sucessfully changed my pump. I noted the comments of check the wiring so I did a foto before to examen. I am not the most mechanical but your video stepped me through, I had a Pentair wisper which is slightly different, but you still got me Though! AWESOME!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/25/2014
Jill,
Check the power at the motor with a meter to make sure you are getting power to the motor. Make sure that the supply power matches how you have set up you motor. If you have 115V coming from the breaker box, make sure that your motor is set up for 115V. Make sure your wires are tight on the motor terminals.
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Jill Posted: 7/24/2014
Just installed new motor, getting power to both timer and motor yet it won't start... Any ideas?
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Anonymous Posted: 7/19/2014
Very "VERY" helpful, thank you for sharing and taking the time to help out others, you are appreciated.
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/9/2014
overheated motor - Check to make sure that the supply voltage to your pump matches the voltage your pump is set for. If you are operating off an extension code ,l make sure it is heavy enough to carry the current to your pump. See our guide, "How To Troubleshoot a Pool Pump Motor - Motor Overheated", for other possible causes.
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Anonymous Posted: 7/8/2014
I replaced my motor pump and hooked all the wires up (2 were red and one green for ground) I put everything back together and it started fine but after about 10-15 minutes it shut down and was very hot to touch. I let it cool and it started again but shut down when it got hot again. any ideas why this happened?? Thanks
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/28/2014
Springhill - By circular pattern do you mean 1,2,3,4,5,6 or are you tightening the bolts as 1,3,5,2,4,6 as we recommend? Are any of your bolts stripped? Do they all screw down tightly? Look for any breaks or scratches in the seal plate or housing edge. Make sure the surfaces that come together are clean and smooth.
Reply

Springhill Posted: 6/27/2014
We use 3 Hayward Super2 pumps for our 2 pools. I've rebuilt all 3 with good success except on 2 of them when I put the motor assembly (impellar & diffuser) back onto the pump housing they will leak around the flat seal.I've tried installing it both vertically with the pump housing down to not force the joining and horizontally. Then tightening the bolts down in a circular pattern to allow even pressure on the seal. They just always leak and as the pump settles in the leak slows down or actually stops as if it's settling in but according to the flow meter the gpm increases?
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/4/2014
nancy - It may mean that your current impeller is too large for your replacement motor when it is operating at full speed. You may have to replace your impeller with a smaller one.
Reply

nancy Posted: 6/3/2014
what does error code 12 (on a go-green replacement motor) mean when replacing a hayward motor on an inground pool pump made by a.o. smith?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/28/2014
RAY - If it's sounding bad - grinding - and overheats, it's probably time to replace the motor.
Reply

RAY Posted: 5/27/2014
My 1 HP pool motor was tripping the breaker, so I tapped motor with a rubber mallet and the motor is running, but it is still over heating after a few hours and not sounding right. Should I just replace the motor?
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 2/12/2014
popmelosax - We sell both parts for your Max E-Glas II pump. The seals repair kit for your pump is GOKIT38. The V-shaped switch is called a Stationary Single Speed Switch, part# 5270-64.
Reply

popmelosax Posted: 2/11/2014
I've been in a quandry trying to replace the seals on my Max E-Glas II pump. Sta-rite has been sold to and I have a time getting the right seals (Max E-Glas II)which seems to be sold out in my area. On top of that, I have broken the v-shaped carbon switch over the rotating switch. Can it be replaced and what is it called?
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 1/17/2014
Booster Pump replacement - Unfortunately we do not have a guide yet on replacing a Booster Pump Motor. You could use this guide generally for replacing a motor, but there will be specific differences between this motor and a Booster Pump Motor.
Reply

Anonymous Posted: 1/12/2014
We are replacing a B625 Booster Pump motor (polaris 1000).
I couldn't find installation instructions specific to the Cleaner pump motor replacement - Does anyone know if these instructions for installation of pool pump motor will work?

Thanks
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 12/9/2013
Ian - It sounds like your motor's bearings are going but I would check your impeller first to make sure it isn't loose and wobbling or isn't clogged with debris. See our guide on "How To Replace A Pool Pump Impeller" for more information.
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Ian Posted: 12/8/2013
I have an intermittent squeal coming from my 1HP Hayward/AOSmith self priming pool pump. Motor appears to be running OK and not getting hot. Any ideas of where the problem may lie? Do i need a new motor or is it more likely the diffuser / impeller assembly?
Reply

JeffBG Posted: 11/10/2013
These instructions were very helpful. Unfortunately, after installing it and connecting my new Century 1.5 hp motor, it didn't start. The voltmeter verifies there is 115 volts going to each lead. Is there a reset button on the motor? What could be the problem?
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/27/2013
Dirk Mc - With AC motors it does not matter which wire goes to L1 and L2. White or black can be connected to L1, the other to L2.
Reply

Dirk Mc Posted: 10/26/2013
I am replacing my 110V pump motor and the 2 wires are black and both show 110V when tested with a multimeter. Does it matter which wire goed to L1 and L2 ?
Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/5/2013
L Knowlton - Check that your motor wire connections are tight, but if this is an older motor - 5 to 10 years, it might be time to replace it.
Reply

L Knowlton Posted: 8/3/2013
Hi guys! Great step by step instructions. my hayward super pump 1hp keeps tripping the circuit breaker each morning when i go to turn the pump on. I have to reset 5-10X! We have installed a new circuit breaker, new outdoor outlet and it hasnt nelped. Getting ready to replace the motor on the pump. Any other ideas before we do this? Thanks
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/15/2013
stuck motor - If this is an older motor, it may have some corrosion between the motor and the housing. I would take a rubber mallet and tap it around the circumference of the motor to try to break up the corrosion.
Reply

Anonymous Posted: 7/13/2013
I am replacing the motor on a pentair superflo pump model cf-0039 (1.5 hp) With a centurion 1.5 motor. After taking off the 4 Bolts that connect the motor housing to the pump and draining the water out of the pump, I cannot pull the motor housing away from the pump. Do you have any suggestions as to what is happening and how to pull the housing off?
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