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How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

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This guide will explain how to replace your inground pool pump motor. We will go step by step through disassembling your pool pump, discarding the old motor, repairing the new motor, its installation, and how to wire it.

If you have any questions about finding the correct replacement motor for your in-ground pool pump, read our guide on how to do so: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Note: Please read the complete guide before starting your installation.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor



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Step 1

Select the Correct Replacement Motor - Find the Model (MOD), Catalog (CAT), or Part (P/N) on your old motor’s information tag and enter it into Inyo’s product search. 

If you cannot find the necessary information or want more information on identifying the correct replacement pool pump motor, read our guide: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 2

Select Replacement Shaft Seal or GOKIT - When replacing a pool pump motor, always replace the shaft seal; this seal is the last line of defense between the surging water in your pump housing and your brand new motor. 

To find the correct replacement shaft seal, you’ll need to identify the make and model of your pump housing. The pump’s model number or model should be listed on one of the pump housing stickers.

GOKITs (Gasket/O-Ring Kits) includes the shaft seal and major gaskets and seals for your specific pump housing. If your pump is older, it may be good to replace all seals while the pump is disassembled to ensure a watertight installation.

If you need help identifying your pump housing: Read our guide: How To Identify Your Pump Manufacturer

Related Articles - How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal 

Click Here to Find Your Pump's GOKIT

Step 3

Shut off Power to the Pump - Shut down the pump’s power source by flipping its breaker.

Step 4

Disconnect Bonding Wire - Unscrew the bonding wire lug to remove it from the motor.

Step 5

Remove Motor From Housing - Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the 6 to 8 (pump model specific) bolts from the pump seal plate, then pull the motor assembly away from the housing.

Step 6

Remove Motor Endcap - Use a screwdriver to loosen the motor endcap’s two screws. Place the endcap to the side after it’s removed.

Step 7

Short the Capacitor - The capacitor may store residual current, making the motor turn while we’re working. To prevent this misfire, using the tip of an insulated-handle screwdriver to both of the capacitor terminals leads to the discharge of the capacitor—also, Plac is a protective material or material between your face to prevent injury from sparks.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 8

Note Old Motor Wiring and Voltage Setting - Before disconnecting any terminal wires, note or take a picture of the motor’s terminal board. This will help ensure we set the correct voltage and wiring for the new motor installation.

Step 9

Disconnect Terminal Board Wires - Disconnect all hot, neutral, and ground wires from the terminal board.

These will be the wires coming into the motor from the conduit hole.

Step 10

Pull Wires - Pull the disconnected wires out of the motor through the conduit adapter.

Step 11

Remove Conduit Elbow - Unscrew the conduit adapter elbow from the old motor; place the adapter to the side for reuse on the new motor.

Step 12

Remove Diffuser - Remove the diffuser from the end of the motor assembly. Some pump models like the Hayward Super II use fins to stabilize the diffuser in the seal plate; this design allows you to pull the diffuser without tools. Other models like the Jandy Stealth uses screws to secure the diffuser to the seal plate; these will need to be removed first.

Step 13

Remove Impeller Wear Ring - Pull off the impeller’s wear ring.

Note: This step does not apply to all pump designs; not all pumps are designed with a wear ring.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 14

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Use a 9/16" wrench or a flathead screwdriver to stabilize the shaft.

Step 15

Remove Impeller Screw (If Necessary) - If your impeller uses an impeller screw, use a screwdriver to remove it. Not all impeller designs use an impeller lock screw like the impeller ring. Check your pump model’s parts listing before, or check for a screw during installation.

Note: The impeller lock screw is left-hand threaded (reverse thread). That is why you turn it clockwise to remove it.

Related Articles - Do I Need an Impeller Lock Screw?

Step 16

Unscrew Impeller from the Motor Shaft - While the motor shaft is stabilized, unscrew the impeller counter-clockwise.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 17

Remove the Seal plate (Motor Mounts to a Separate Mounting Plate) - Depending on the pump design, the seal plate may pull off easily after the impeller is removed because there’s a separate motor mount plate that backs the seal plate.

Step 18

Remove Seal Plate (Motor Mounts Directly to Seal Plate) - For models that use the seal plate as a mounting bracket, you will need to remove the four mounting bolts from the backside of the seal plate.

Step 19

Remove the New Motor’s Endcap - Re-screw the endcap screw on the new motor, and set the endcap screws aside for later re-installation.

Step 20

Install Motor Mounting Bracket or Seal Plate (Depending on Pump Design) - Use the four motor mount screws to reattach the seal plate or motor mount to the face of the motor.

The top of the motor mounting plate for this pump is labeled "TOP"—alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 21

Place the Plate Over the Mount Mount (Depending on Pump Design) - If your seal plate is separate from your motor mounting bracket, set it in place now.

Step 22

Remove Old Shaft Seal - Remove the old shaft seal from the old seal plate and impeller steam. Ensure to remove all bits of the old shaft seal, ensuring a snug fit of the new seal.

Note: There are two types of shaft seals used in modern pool pump design; one has the white ceramic side sit in the seal plate, and the spring-loaded side sits on the stem of the impeller. They are shown In Steps 23 & 25. The other standard design is vice versa; the white ceramic sits in an impeller cup around the impeller stem, while the spring-side sits in the seal plate. They are shown In Steps 24 & 26.

Refer to your owner’s manual or the corresponding pars schematic on our Inyo's Pool Pump Parts Finder

Step 23

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic in Seal Plate - Use a clean cloth to press the white ceramic side into the seal plate. First, make sure the Shaft seal is completely seated in the seal plate. Next, use a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt or finger grease that may have marked the smooth ring’s face.

Step 24

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic on impeller Stem - With a clean cloth, press the ceramic shaft seal into the impeller with the white ceramic side facing up.

Step 25

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side on Impeller - Slide the new shaft seal's spring-loaded side onto the impeller stem.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 26

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side Seal Plate -  Place a 1" PVC coupler over the seal and lightly hammer the seal into the plate. Check the front and back of the plate to ensure the seal is flush with the plate.

Tip: Apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the metal cup base of the spring-side piece. This will ensure the shaft seal stays secure in the seal plate during installation.

Step 27

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Stabilize the motor shaft with a 9/16” wrench.

Step 28

Install impeller - Hand-tighten impeller onto the end of the motor shaft.

Step 29

Re-Install Impeller Lock Screw (If Necessary) - Screw in the impeller lock screw if your pump requires one.

Step 30

Re-Install Impeller Ring (If Necessary) - Install the old impeller lock screw into the new impeller. Remember, this screw is a reverse thread “Lefty-Tighty.”

Step 31

Re-Install Diffuser - Place the diffuser over the impeller, and align the tabs (or screw holes) of the diffuser into the holes of the seal plate. Install diffuser screws (model dependent.)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 32

Install Diffuser O-Ring - Apply Teflon lube to the new diffuser o-ring, then slide it into place.

Step 33

Install Housing Gasket - Lube the housing gasket with either Teflon or silicone, then install it into the seal plate’s gasket groove.

Step 34

Mount Motor Assembly to Housing - Slid the motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 35

Install Pump Housing Bolts - Re-attach the 6 to 8  bolts to secure the motor assembly to the pump housing. The number of bolts varies depending on the model.

Step 36

Attach Conduit Adapter - Screw on the original conduit adapter to the new motor.

Step 37

Connect Wires to Terminal Board - Check your new motor’s wiring diagram to confirm wire orientations.

In this example, we had a single-speed motor running on 230v. We connected the Black hot line to L1, the Red hot line to L2, and the green ground line to the green screw.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 38

Attach Motor’s Endcap - install the motor’s endcap using two screws.

Step 39

Prime the pump - Use a hose to fill the strainer housing with water, then close the pump lid.

Related Articles - How To Prime a Pool Pump, How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime

Step 40

Turn on the Pump - Switch on the pump’s breaker, to restore power.


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(161 to 200 of 215)

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/4/2014 

nancy - It may mean that your current impeller is too large for your replacement motor when it is operating at full speed. You may have to replace your impeller with a smaller one.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/3/2014 

what does error code 12 (on a go-green replacement motor) mean when replacing a hayward motor on an inground pool pump made by a.o. smith?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/28/2014 

RAY - If it's sounding bad - grinding - and overheats, it's probably time to replace the motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/27/2014 

My 1 HP pool motor was tripping the breaker, so I tapped motor with a rubber mallet and the motor is running, but it is still over heating after a few hours and not sounding right. Should I just replace the motor?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/12/2014 

popmelosax - We sell both parts for your Max E-Glas II pump. The seals repair kit for your pump is GOKIT38. The V-shaped switch is called a Stationary Single Speed Switch, part# 5270-64.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/11/2014 

I've been in a quandry trying to replace the seals on my Max E-Glas II pump. Sta-rite has been sold to and I have a time getting the right seals (Max E-Glas II)which seems to be sold out in my area. On top of that, I have broken the v-shaped carbon switch over the rotating switch. Can it be replaced and what is it called?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/17/2014 

Booster Pump replacement - Unfortunately we do not have a guide yet on replacing a Booster Pump Motor. You could use this guide generally for replacing a motor, but there will be specific differences between this motor and a Booster Pump Motor.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 1/12/2014 

We are replacing a B625 Booster Pump motor (polaris 1000).
I couldn't find installation instructions specific to the Cleaner pump motor replacement - Does anyone know if these instructions for installation of pool pump motor will work?

Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/9/2013 

Ian - It sounds like your motor's bearings are going but I would check your impeller first to make sure it isn't loose and wobbling or isn't clogged with debris. See our guide on "How To Replace A Pool Pump Impeller" for more information.
 Reply

 Posted: 12/8/2013 

I have an intermittent squeal coming from my 1HP Hayward/AOSmith self priming pool pump. Motor appears to be running OK and not getting hot. Any ideas of where the problem may lie? Do i need a new motor or is it more likely the diffuser / impeller assembly?
 Reply

 Posted: 11/10/2013 

These instructions were very helpful. Unfortunately, after installing it and connecting my new Century 1.5 hp motor, it didn't start. The voltmeter verifies there is 115 volts going to each lead. Is there a reset button on the motor? What could be the problem?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/27/2013 

Dirk Mc - With AC motors it does not matter which wire goes to L1 and L2. White or black can be connected to L1, the other to L2.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/26/2013 

I am replacing my 110V pump motor and the 2 wires are black and both show 110V when tested with a multimeter. Does it matter which wire goed to L1 and L2 ?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/5/2013 

L Knowlton - Check that your motor wire connections are tight, but if this is an older motor - 5 to 10 years, it might be time to replace it.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/3/2013 

Hi guys! Great step by step instructions. my hayward super pump 1hp keeps tripping the circuit breaker each morning when i go to turn the pump on. I have to reset 5-10X! We have installed a new circuit breaker, new outdoor outlet and it hasnt nelped. Getting ready to replace the motor on the pump. Any other ideas before we do this? Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/15/2013 

stuck motor - If this is an older motor, it may have some corrosion between the motor and the housing. I would take a rubber mallet and tap it around the circumference of the motor to try to break up the corrosion.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/13/2013 

I am replacing the motor on a pentair superflo pump model cf-0039 (1.5 hp) With a centurion 1.5 motor. After taking off the 4 Bolts that connect the motor housing to the pump and draining the water out of the pump, I cannot pull the motor housing away from the pump. Do you have any suggestions as to what is happening and how to pull the housing off?
 Reply

 Posted: 6/30/2013 

I went from a 1 1/2 hp to 2hp motor, I spoke with Matt and he was very helpful, guiding me through everything I needed for the upgrade.
My problem is when I was putting on the large o ring before the large coupling it kept slipping down & don't think it seated well.
I now how've a leak around that coupling, when i set it to filter it leaks a little when I put it on backwash it pours out! Could it be the o ring or maybe the ceramic bushing?
Thanks psu
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/23/2013 

I am incredibly handy and mRk my words this step by step process is awesome as This was my first time changing 2.5 hp hayward to an a. o.smith pool pump motor.
If you add a new ceramic plug be sure not to touch it with your hands as I did, the remedy is to take it apart and wipe with rubbing alcohol to dry it, wear latex gloves, this was my only issue and it was my fault as the dealer told me not to bare hand the ceramic plug as it causes big leaks... GREAT VIDEO N DIRECTIONS
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/23/2013 

bryan tampa fl - Motors often run hot especially if they are installed in the sun. However, I would check the supply voltage. If it isn't within 10% of the voltage listed on the motor label, the motor will draw more current, heat up and eventually fail. Also make sure that your supply voltage is the same as your motor's configuration. If you have 115V supply and your motor is set up for 230V y, the motor will cycle on and off as it heats up and cools.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/22/2013 

i just replaced my 1hp/.
using the theory I matched the green with the green.
I had two white wires which i presumed should both be hot.
primed and ran pool, felt like it was going great. 15 minuets I decided to feel moter and it was very hot. That doesn't sound common? correct?
Please adivse.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/10/2013 

Reduced HP - Generally when you reduce the HP of your pump motor, you have to reduce the size of the pump impeller. If you don't, your smaller motor is trying to move the same amount of water that the larger motor did. It will heat up and eventually fail. Also, if this is a pump for an in-ground pool, you may need to change the pump's diffuser to a smaller size.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/9/2013 

I replaced the motor but went down in HP do I need to replace the impeller as well? I went from 1hp to 3/4hp and now the motor is running really hot.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2013 

cpe.ru90 - Many of the pumps have lock washers on the attaching bolts. Either way, If I put anything on the bolts, I use a lubricant so I could get them off easier the next time.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/30/2013 

when bolting on the motor plate to the motor should the bolt threads be coated with a lubricant or thread-lock?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/18/2012 

wiring - Yes that is correct. For 230V both wires are hot and either can be connected to either L1 or L2. They are interchangeable.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/17/2012 

pretty sure i know the answer, but want to make sure...replaced new 1.5hp pump motor. 230V. has 2 red lead wires (plus green ground). on 230V both are hot, so it does not matter which wire goes on which connection, is this correct ?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 9/18/2012 

The instructions were clear and well documented, I found thes exremely uselful, great job, thank you.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/16/2012 

Whisperflo pump stopped working - Sounds electrical and not mechanical. Check you motor's capacitor(s). When they are failing they, they will cause intermittent starts. Also some motors have governors at the end of the drive shaft that sometimes get stuck open and prevent restart. Then call your control board manufacturer and see if he has any ideas.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 9/12/2012 

Hi, I've got an AOSmith 1.5 hp Whisper-flo Century Centurion pump on an in-ground pool, the pump is controlled through a computer board (controls all equipment, on/off, sets time, etc.). The pump stopped working, and my electrician said that a relay in the computer board blew, he replaced it and it started working. It stopped two more times since, he said the first time there was a loose connection in the motor, which he corrected, the second time he doesn't know what happened, he just played around with it and it started working again. Does this sound like a fluke, or do I need to buy a new pump?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/10/2012 

JR - If you can replace the motor by pulling the pump and if it would be difficult to clip away the cement, I would go ahead and put in unions to the pump. On the other hand, if you are not replacing your motor with an identical motor you may have to replace the motor base anyway.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/8/2012 

Trying to replace my 1hp motor. AFter removing the four bolts holding the motor I noticed the mounting base is partially covered with cement from the cool deck. This makes it impossible to rmeove the motor since the lip of it is between the base and the round water-intake part of the pump. The intake and output piping on the pump do not have quick disconnects. Should I install the quick disconnects and leave the mounting base in it's current location (assuming the new motor should go back in the exact same spot) or should I remove the cement covering the mounting base and take it out with the motor. Just looking for an opinion before I go further. Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/22/2012 

shorting capacitors - Generally it is sufficient to discharge only the capacitor you are replacing.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 8/20/2012 

Is it necessary to short out both capacitors or just the one that I will have to actually touch. My motor has the start capacitor (fin) mounted on top and the run capcitor inside..
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/7/2012 

Charlie - I'm not sure what the issue is. Your pump motor should run counterclockwise when looking at it from the pump end: CCWPE ; it will run clockwise when looking at it from the lead end, CWLE where the electric power comes in.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/4/2012 

I just replaced my 1 1/2 hp Stay rite maxi glass with a new motor but it runs counterclockwise and not clockwise, Anyone know how to fix this?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/27/2012 

JBandAB - First, when you are replacing your 1 HP motor with a 1 1/2 motor, look at their Total HP (THP) and understand the difference between a full rated motor and an uprated motor. THP os the product of HP and Service Factor (SF)- see motor label. An uprated motor has a low SF of 1.0 to 1.1. A full rated motor has a SF of 1.5 to 1.6. If your current 1 HP motor has a HP of 1.0 and a SF of 1.0, it is an uprated motor and its THP is 1.0 (1.0 x 1.0). If you have an uprated 1 hp motor and you want to go to a 1.5 THP motor, select either a 1.5 HP uprated motor or a 1.0 HP full rated motor (1.0 x 1.5 = 1.5 THP). When going to a larger motor, you will probably need a larger impeller and possibly a new diffuser and a GOKIT. Lubrication for the gaskets is provided in the GOKIT.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/26/2012 

We have owned our house for 7 years, and recently we had a pool maintenance person tell us our 1 HP pool motor was too small, and we should consider getting a 1.5 HP. Our pool is an in-ground 32*16 with a 3.5 ft shallow end and an 8 ft deep end; slightly sloping walls. My question is, can I just replace the 1 HP motor on the pool pump with the 1.5 HP motor? If so, what items do I need other than the motor, and Go-kit?? New impeller, etc??? Please help!
Thank you. JB
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/26/2012 

Sunshine sally - You have a couple of options at this point. 1- You can replace you 1 HP MOTOR with a 1 1/2 HP MOTOR. 2- Keep your current pump and go to a robotic cleaner rather than a suction cleaner. It is self contained and does not rely on water flow. For option 1, (assuming your new pump is also a Super Pump) you need to purchase a 1 1/2 HP Up Rated AO Smith Motor, PN UST1152. You will also need to replace the impeller with PN SPX2610C for a 1 1/2 HP Up Rated motor, and if you've used your 1 HP for a while, you might consider replacing the shaft seal with PN SPX1600Z2. Unfortunately you cannot go from a 1 HP motor to 2 HP motor. It's too big a jump for this pump. One other option is to go with an Energy Efficient 1 1/2 HP motor, UCT1152. It cost a little more initially but will save you 25% in operational costs.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/25/2012 

Our original Hayward Super pump was a 2 HP pump that worked great for 10 years. My husband went to buy a new one and the salesperson convinced him to buy a 1 HP pump which would save him electricity. Well that may be so, but it takes forever to vacuum the pool now (large in ground pool). Can we upgrade this new pump to have more horse power?
SS
 Reply