How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

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Today's pool pump motors are much more efficient. If you have an older pool pump or it's motor is running loud or just stop working, you'll want to consider replacing your pool pump motor. You do not have to replace the whole pool pump and as this guide will show, replacing your pool pump motor is not difficult. Although this guide is specific to a Hayward pool pump, most of the steps can apply to other models of pool pumps. Caution: You must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have an electrician wire your pump for you. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pool pump motor and void your warranty.

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Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

To find the proper pool pump motor you will need to know the manufacturer of your pump (popular names include Hayward, Sta Rite, Pentair, Pac-Fab, Jacuzzi, etc.) and the model of your pump (i.e. Max Flow, Super Pump, Super II, Dura-Glas, Max-E-Glas, WhisperFlo, Magnum, etc.) This information should be located on the pump housing near the basket of your pump. The pump represented in this guide is a Hayward Super Pump.

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Click Here to View Pentair/Pac-Fab Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Sta-Rite Pool Pump Motors

Click Here to View Jacuzzi Pool Pump Motors


Step 2

Also, look for the following information on the label on the motor: Model #, HP, SF, RPM, FR, Volts and Amps. If you need help determining the correct replacement motor for your pool pump, use the chat feature in the lower left corner of the screen or submit a ticket by clicking here

Step 3

We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal when replacing your motor. If you use your old shaft seal it may not mate up properly with the new pump and typically will leak. A new shaft seal generally costs between $15 - $20, or for a better value at approximately $35, go with a Go-Kit which includes the shaft seal and all O-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump. To purchase a GO KIT, click GO-KITS For further step-by-step instructions on replacing a motor shaft seal, click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 4

Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petrolium jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements

Step 5

As an overview, there are three areas you will have to address to disconnect your pool pump motor: 1- disconnecting the bonding wire 2- separating the pump motor from the pump assembly 3- disconnecting the electrical connections

Step 6

Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.

Step 7

Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water may spray out initally as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 8

Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.

Step 9

Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.

Step 10

Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.

Step 11

Stand the motor up to get easier access to the wiring in the back end of the motor. Place padding under the motor to protect the diffuser.

Step 12

To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws and remove the cover. You will see a large capacitor.

Step 13

Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying a screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion these capacitors have been know to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.

Step 14

Note the configuration of the wires. If you are replacing your motor with an equivalent motor, this is how you will want to rewire your new motor. This motor is wired for 230V which is how most motors are shipped from the manufacturers. If you are not replacing your motor with a motor that has the same wiring configuration, check with your motor manual of the manufacturer for wiring instructions. DO NOT guess. This pump motor has three wires for 230V wiring: a red wire (load) going to terminal 1; a black wire (load) going to terminal 3; and a green (ground) wire screwed to the ground terminal at the right. The small black box is positioned so that the arrow on top points to the 230 label. Note: the black box is an internal wire that stays with the motor. It does not have to be disconnected.

Step 15

Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.

Step 16

Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.

Step 17

Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them throgh the elbow

Step 18

The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.

Step 19

Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.

Step 20

Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.

Step 21

To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.

Step 22

You will have to remove the capacitor to gain access to the end of the motor shaft. Unscrew the single screw that holds the capacitor in place and push it out of the way. No need to disconnect capacitor from leads.

Step 23

Place a 7/16" wrench on the flat end of the motor shaft to secure the shaft from rotating.

Step 24

At the impeller end, twist off the impeller, counter clockwise. You may have to use a channel lock pliers to GENTLY free up the impeller. Do not apply a lot of pressure with the pliers. You can break the impeller. If these pliers don't work find a set of strap pliers. They apply even pressure and are less likely to damage the impeller. This picture shows the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. As stated above we recommend replacing this seal when replacing your motor. For further instructions on replacing this seal click How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal.

Step 25

Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.

Step 26

Remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.

Step 27

Lift off the motor mounting plate.

Step 28

Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.

Step 29

You are now ready to swap out the old motor with the new motor.

Step 30

Remove back cover from new motor to access the back end of the motor shaft.

Step 31

Unfasten the capacitor and move it out of the way as you did on the old motor.

Step 32

Place a wrench on the end of the motor shaft.

Step 33

Clean and bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump the top of the motor mounting plate is labled "TOP". Alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 34

Clean and place the seal plate on the motor mounting plate. It is not bolted at this point.

Step 35

Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a clean soft cotton cloth.

Step 36

Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The seal is on the back side of the impeller.

Step 37

Screw on impleller clockwise while holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench.

Step 38

Replace capacitor.

Step 39

Place the impeller ring onto the impeller with the wider base up. The correct side is labeled on this pump's ring.

Step 40

Snap on the diffuser. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.

Step 41

Inspect diffuser gasket for rips or wear.

Step 42

Lubricate the diffuser gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubrication.

Step 43

Screw the metal electrical collar into the back end of the motor.

Step 44

Move the new motor to the pump. Stand the motor on end to access electrical contacts. Place padding under motor to protect the diffuser. Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.

Step 45

Connect the three wires onto the motor terminals in the same configuration as they were on the old motor. Red wire to terminal 1; black wire to terminal 3; and green ground wire screwed to the ground lug. Check that the arrow on the black box lead is pointing at 230. If your are replacing the old motor with a different motor, be sure to check the correct wiring configuration with the new motor manual or the manufacturer. DO NOT guess or assume they it is the same as the old pump unless the new pump is exactly the same as the old pump.

Step 46

Screw on electrical conduit collar.

Step 47

Replace the motor's electrical cover with the two screws.

Step 48

Lubricate the housing gasket with a thin coat of silicon lubricant.

Step 49

Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 50

Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.

Step 51

Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.

Step 52

Remove the basket cover, prime the pump and replace the cover.

Step 53

Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker.

Step 54

Close the relief valve on the filter when water starts to spray out.

Step 55

Your new motor and pump should be operating. Check for any leaks around the motor and the housing gasket.

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Comments

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(161 to 198 of 198)

 Posted: 6/30/2013 

I went from a 1 1/2 hp to 2hp motor, I spoke with Matt and he was very helpful, guiding me through everything I needed for the upgrade.
My problem is when I was putting on the large o ring before the large coupling it kept slipping down & don't think it seated well.
I now how've a leak around that coupling, when i set it to filter it leaks a little when I put it on backwash it pours out! Could it be the o ring or maybe the ceramic bushing?
Thanks psu

 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/23/2013 

I am incredibly handy and mRk my words this step by step process is awesome as This was my first time changing 2.5 hp hayward to an a. o.smith pool pump motor.
If you add a new ceramic plug be sure not to touch it with your hands as I did, the remedy is to take it apart and wipe with rubbing alcohol to dry it, wear latex gloves, this was my only issue and it was my fault as the dealer told me not to bare hand the ceramic plug as it causes big leaks... GREAT VIDEO N DIRECTIONS

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/23/2013 

bryan tampa fl - Motors often run hot especially if they are installed in the sun. However, I would check the supply voltage. If it isn't within 10% of the voltage listed on the motor label, the motor will draw more current, heat up and eventually fail. Also make sure that your supply voltage is the same as your motor's configuration. If you have 115V supply and your motor is set up for 230V y, the motor will cycle on and off as it heats up and cools.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/22/2013 

i just replaced my 1hp/.
using the theory I matched the green with the green.
I had two white wires which i presumed should both be hot.
primed and ran pool, felt like it was going great. 15 minuets I decided to feel moter and it was very hot. That doesn't sound common? correct?
Please adivse.

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/10/2013 

Reduced HP - Generally when you reduce the HP of your pump motor, you have to reduce the size of the pump impeller. If you don't, your smaller motor is trying to move the same amount of water that the larger motor did. It will heat up and eventually fail. Also, if this is a pump for an in-ground pool, you may need to change the pump's diffuser to a smaller size.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/9/2013 

I replaced the motor but went down in HP do I need to replace the impeller as well? I went from 1hp to 3/4hp and now the motor is running really hot.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2013 

cpe.ru90 - Many of the pumps have lock washers on the attaching bolts. Either way, If I put anything on the bolts, I use a lubricant so I could get them off easier the next time.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/30/2013 

when bolting on the motor plate to the motor should the bolt threads be coated with a lubricant or thread-lock?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/18/2012 

wiring - Yes that is correct. For 230V both wires are hot and either can be connected to either L1 or L2. They are interchangeable.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/17/2012 

pretty sure i know the answer, but want to make sure...replaced new 1.5hp pump motor. 230V. has 2 red lead wires (plus green ground). on 230V both are hot, so it does not matter which wire goes on which connection, is this correct ?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 9/18/2012 

The instructions were clear and well documented, I found thes exremely uselful, great job, thank you.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/16/2012 

Whisperflo pump stopped working - Sounds electrical and not mechanical. Check you motor's capacitor(s). When they are failing they, they will cause intermittent starts. Also some motors have governors at the end of the drive shaft that sometimes get stuck open and prevent restart. Then call your control board manufacturer and see if he has any ideas.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 9/12/2012 

Hi, I've got an AOSmith 1.5 hp Whisper-flo Century Centurion pump on an in-ground pool, the pump is controlled through a computer board (controls all equipment, on/off, sets time, etc.). The pump stopped working, and my electrician said that a relay in the computer board blew, he replaced it and it started working. It stopped two more times since, he said the first time there was a loose connection in the motor, which he corrected, the second time he doesn't know what happened, he just played around with it and it started working again. Does this sound like a fluke, or do I need to buy a new pump?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/10/2012 

JR - If you can replace the motor by pulling the pump and if it would be difficult to clip away the cement, I would go ahead and put in unions to the pump. On the other hand, if you are not replacing your motor with an identical motor you may have to replace the motor base anyway.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/8/2012 

Trying to replace my 1hp motor. AFter removing the four bolts holding the motor I noticed the mounting base is partially covered with cement from the cool deck. This makes it impossible to rmeove the motor since the lip of it is between the base and the round water-intake part of the pump. The intake and output piping on the pump do not have quick disconnects. Should I install the quick disconnects and leave the mounting base in it's current location (assuming the new motor should go back in the exact same spot) or should I remove the cement covering the mounting base and take it out with the motor. Just looking for an opinion before I go further. Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/22/2012 

shorting capacitors - Generally it is sufficient to discharge only the capacitor you are replacing.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 8/20/2012 

Is it necessary to short out both capacitors or just the one that I will have to actually touch. My motor has the start capacitor (fin) mounted on top and the run capcitor inside..
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/7/2012 

Charlie - I'm not sure what the issue is. Your pump motor should run counterclockwise when looking at it from the pump end: CCWPE ; it will run clockwise when looking at it from the lead end, CWLE where the electric power comes in.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/4/2012 

I just replaced my 1 1/2 hp Stay rite maxi glass with a new motor but it runs counterclockwise and not clockwise, Anyone know how to fix this?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/27/2012 

JBandAB - First, when you are replacing your 1 HP motor with a 1 1/2 motor, look at their Total HP (THP) and understand the difference between a full rated motor and an uprated motor. THP os the product of HP and Service Factor (SF)- see motor label. An uprated motor has a low SF of 1.0 to 1.1. A full rated motor has a SF of 1.5 to 1.6. If your current 1 HP motor has a HP of 1.0 and a SF of 1.0, it is an uprated motor and its THP is 1.0 (1.0 x 1.0). If you have an uprated 1 hp motor and you want to go to a 1.5 THP motor, select either a 1.5 HP uprated motor or a 1.0 HP full rated motor (1.0 x 1.5 = 1.5 THP). When going to a larger motor, you will probably need a larger impeller and possibly a new diffuser and a GOKIT. Lubrication for the gaskets is provided in the GOKIT.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/26/2012 

We have owned our house for 7 years, and recently we had a pool maintenance person tell us our 1 HP pool motor was too small, and we should consider getting a 1.5 HP. Our pool is an in-ground 32*16 with a 3.5 ft shallow end and an 8 ft deep end; slightly sloping walls. My question is, can I just replace the 1 HP motor on the pool pump with the 1.5 HP motor? If so, what items do I need other than the motor, and Go-kit?? New impeller, etc??? Please help!
Thank you. JB

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/26/2012 

Sunshine sally - You have a couple of options at this point. 1- You can replace you 1 HP MOTOR with a 1 1/2 HP MOTOR. 2- Keep your current pump and go to a robotic cleaner rather than a suction cleaner. It is self contained and does not rely on water flow. For option 1, (assuming your new pump is also a Super Pump) you need to purchase a 1 1/2 HP Up Rated AO Smith Motor, PN UST1152. You will also need to replace the impeller with PN SPX2610C for a 1 1/2 HP Up Rated motor, and if you've used your 1 HP for a while, you might consider replacing the shaft seal with PN SPX1600Z2. Unfortunately you cannot go from a 1 HP motor to 2 HP motor. It's too big a jump for this pump. One other option is to go with an Energy Efficient 1 1/2 HP motor, UCT1152. It cost a little more initially but will save you 25% in operational costs.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/25/2012 

Our original Hayward Super pump was a 2 HP pump that worked great for 10 years. My husband went to buy a new one and the salesperson convinced him to buy a 1 HP pump which would save him electricity. Well that may be so, but it takes forever to vacuum the pool now (large in ground pool). Can we upgrade this new pump to have more horse power?
SS

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/16/2012 

CBD - Generally, if the leak is under the pump, you have a housing gasket problem, where the motor and pump come together (see Steps 48 and 49). Make sure that gasket is set properly. Get a new one if you didn't already. If the water is coming from the bottom of the motor, you have a shaft seal problem. This seal has to be replaced with a new one when you replace a motor. Also make sure you have the right shaft seal. They are different for each motor. Give us a call and we will confirm the shaft seal part. Worse case - check to make sure that you don't have a crack in the pump housing.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/15/2012 

Bought a 2 THP motor from you guys.
Followed instructions...
Went to prime the system and noticed water is leaking directly from bottom of pump/de-fuser sections.
It is a free flow leak in volume. Started all over and turned the white and rubber seal around just for grins and same exact result. Pump does work though, but the leak is a huge amount. Any ideas?

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/26/2012 

Ray Ray – If you have diverter valves, check to make sure they are set correctly to allow enough flow into the return lines. Also check the impeller inside the motor to see if it is clogged. Check for leaks in the lines and pool equipment. See our How To Guides for more specific instructions.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/23/2012 

My in ground pool pump is not working like normal. I'm only receiving a low volume of pressure into the pool and I'm not able to use my cleaning tools to clean the pool.

thanks, Ray

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/14/2012 

bw - Depends on where the leak is. If water is dripping out of the bottom of the motor, you probably have a bad shaft seal or you need to check that you purchased the correct shaft seal for you pump. If the water is spraying out at one of the gaskets, make sure the new gasket is seated correctly or you may have a defective gasket. Last, and worst, you may have a crack in your pump housing in which case you will need to buy a new housing.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/13/2012 

everything went as planned until iI turned on the pump and I had a leak. I redid the whole prosses and it continued so I'm not sure. Any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 12/23/2011 

Just installed the new pump (AO Smith), GOKIT3, and impeller. Worked like a charm for about a 1/2 hour. It started to trip breaker. Looked at it the next morning and noticed that there was a small nick in a yellow wire going to the start-up cap and it was shorting to the capacitor. Piece of electrical tape and it works like a charm. This is my third pump in 4 years. Had the super pump replaced with an Emerson which lasted less than 6 months. My guess is the pool guy reused the old seal..regardless the bearings went out on that pump and not sure if that could be caused by the seal. Will look into getting it rebuilt and keep as a spare.
Very pleased with INYOpools, knowledgeable with a sense of humor. Merry Christmas guys!

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/19/2011 

Steve, Recheck your wiring. See also our guide on "How To Wire a Pool Pump". Make sure the motor shaft rotates easily. If this doesn't work, give us a call at 877 372-6038.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/18/2011 

when I turned on my new motor it just made a small buzz and then nothing. Any ideas?

 Reply

 Posted: 11/16/2011 

Hi,
I just want to say TY for providing these clear instructions so I could make this a DIY project and save the cash.It took about 45 minutes to gater my tools and do the disassemble.And about another 45 minutes to do the install...NICE JOB GUYS...Thanks again....Ian...Also I feel more confident knowing that I can DIY and tackle more jobs that arise...

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/1/2011 

You might try epoxy. Make sure the bolt lines up with the insert. I'd put the motor an 1" from the housing, screw in a couple of "good" bolts to line them up, place the "loose" bolt though the motor hole and screw it into the insert, then epoxy the insert in. Can't guarantee it will work but it's worth a shot.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/31/2011 

How can I fix the problem of one of hte brass inserts that the six bolts screw in to pulls out of the pool pump housing? Is there a way to re-seat it?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 8/23/2011 

Okay, I did it, and saved at least $150 by doing it myself. These instructions were very, very helpful. But probably spent 15 hours, including all the research and internet shopping to get the best prices. This is a "moderate" difficulty project only compared with say, rebuilding your car's engine, I suppose. It certainly wasn't simple. There are a lot of ways to go wrong, but my attitude was, give it a shot, and the worst thing that can happen is you'll have to call a pro to bail you out.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/19/2019 

Excellent info and steps. Keep up the great service.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/30/2011 

was able to replace my Hayward pump w ease thanks to this guide. IT WAS GREAT! the new pump is exceedingly quiet
 Reply