How To Replace the Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator Cell Cable


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The single plug Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator Cell Cable has been replaced with a three plug Cell Cable to provide tighter connections to the three prongs on the end of the cell. If your old Cell Cable Plug does not fit tightly on the end of the Cell or you are seeing erroneous messages on your display, it may be time to replace your Cell Cable with a new three plug Cell Cable. This guide shows you step by step how to replace the Cell Cable on your Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator.

Step by Step


Step 1

ORDER PARTS - Before starting this installation you will have to order the New Cell Cord for your Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator. This cord comes in two lengths, 6 ft and 15 ft. Note: The clear cup and locking ring shown here only come with a new cell. They are not available in the new cell cable replacement kit. Use the old locking ring. The three terminals are designed to operate in adverse weather conditions without the clear cup. For a new cell cord replacement without the clear cup, ignore all steps 4 through 15 except steps 10 and 11. Basically take the old cell plug off, and attach the three new plugs onto the cell terminals.

Step 2

TURN OFF POWER - Turn off all power to the Compupool Salt Chlorine Generator and pump. If possible turn the power off at the circuit breaker. Make sure power is OFF and cannot be accidentally turned on while you are changing the cell cord. This is 240V. If you are unfamiliar with electricity, have an electrician help you with the electrical changes.

Step 3

REMOVE CELL CORD PLUG - Gently pry off the cell plug on the end of the cell.

Step 4

REMOVE UNION COLLARS - Unscrew the collars on the barrel unions that connect the Cell Assembly to the piping.

Step 5

UNLATCH OUTER CELL COVER - Separate the outer blue cover surrounding the cell by pulling the two halves apart. You may have to press down gently at the latching points with a screwdriver to help release them. Start at the cell plug end.

Step 6

REMOVE OUTER COVER - This picture shows outer blue cover halves after being separated.

Step 7

REMOVE LOCKING RING - Unscrew the Locking Ring off the end of the Cell.

Step 8

THREAD CABLE THRU CUP - Take the end of the cable without the plugs and thread it through the Cup as shown.

Step 9

PULL CABLE TO PLUGS END - Pull the Cable all the way through the hole in the Cup until it reaches the end with the Plugs. String the Locking Ring onto the Cable in a similar manner.

Step 10

ATTACH PLUGS - Place the three plugs onto the terminals (posts) at the end of the Cell - Red on top; blue middle and black at the bottom.

Step 11

ADJUST PLUGS - If the plugs are loose, you may have to tighten them up by crimping the ends of the plugs slightly with a pair of pliers.

Step 12

ATTACH CUP - Place the cup over the end of the cell.

Step 13

REPLACE LOCKING RING - Place the new Locking Ring over the end of the Cup and screw it onto the end of the Cell.

Step 14

REPLACE OUTER COVER - Press the two halves of the Outer Cover together over the Cell. You will hear them click. Make sure that all latches are connected. They may need some pressure to engage completely.

Step 15

REPLACE UNION COLLARS - Screw the Union Collars back into place.

Step 16

COLLECT CABLE END - Locate the loose end of the Cable and take it up to the Control Unit

Step 17

UNSCREW CONTROL UNIT - Remove the four screws that hold the Control Unit onto the wall plate - two on the top and one on each side of the Unit at its base.

Step 18

REMOVE CONTROL UNIT - Take the Control Unit off the wall and lay it on its back. I used a portable bench here because of the short power cord.

Step 19

REMOVE BOTTOM SCREWS. - Remove the 6 screws that hold the gray Housing Cover onto the base of the Control Unit.

Step 20

REMOVE HOUSING COVER - Turn the Control Unit over and lift of the Housing Cover. Place the Housing Cover upside down next to the Control Unit.

Step 21

REMOVE RIBBON CONNECTOR - Lift the end terminal of the ribbon cord out of its socket in the Housing Cover. Set the Housing Cover aside.

Step 22

IDENTIFY CELL CABLE WIRES - The Cell Cable contains a packet of three wires: the red, black wires carry the power; the blue wire provides sensing and control. The wires enter the bottom of the Control Unit through a grommet and are routed inside the Unit under the panel board.

Step 23

UNPLUG BLUE WIRE - Carefully unplug the blue wire located next to the copper ring, labeled J22. It might help to use a small screwdriver to gently pry it off the lug.

Step 24

REMOVE GROMMET - Twist or pull the grommet out of its hole in the bottom of the Control Unit.

Step 25

REMOVE BLUE WIRE - With the grommet out of the way, pull the blue wire out through the bottom of the Control Unit.

Step 26

CUT BLACK AND RED WIRES - With your wire cutters, cut the black and red wires on the outside of the Control Unit. Try to leave about 1 inch of wire outside the Unit.

Step 27

REMOVE PANEL SCREWS - Unscrew the two screws that hold down the lower end of the panel screw is located on the left side of the board behind the clear contact casing and the other is on the bottom right corner.

Step 28

PULL WIRES FROM UNDER PANEL - Carefully lift the edge of the panel board and pull the cut ends of the red and black wires back inside the Control Unit and out from under the panel.

Step 29

STRIP WIRES - Strip the ends of the red and black wires back one inch.

Step 30

FEED NEW CELL CORD INTO CONTROL UNIT - Feed the new cell cord (three wires) through the grommet then into the hole at the bottom of the Control Unit.

Step 31

STRIP ENDS OF CELL CORD - Pull the new cord out from under the panel board and strip the ends of the red and black wires.

Step 32

CONNECT WIRES - Combine the two black and red wires from the Cell Cord with the two wires connected to the panel. First twist the ends of each of the wires clockwise to make a tighter bundle of the braided wire. Then place the like colored wire together (black to black and red to red) and place a Spring Connector over each set and turn clockwise. Pull on each wire to ensure they are connected tightly.

Step 33

PLUG IN NEW BLUE WIRE - Plug the blue wire from the new Cell Cord into the panel board at terminal J22.

Step 34

PLACE CONNECTORS UNDER PANEL - Carefully lift the end of the panel board and place the wire connectors and excess wire underneath so they are out of the way.

Step 35

SCREW DOWN PANEL - Replace the two screws previously removed from the board to secure it to the Control Unit.

Step 36

SLIDE GROMMET INTO HOLE - Slide the grommet into the hole at the bottom of the Control Unit.

Step 37

PLUG IN RIBBON CONNECTOR - Plug the end of the ribbon cord back into the Housing Cover.

Step 38

REATTACH HOUSING - Place the Housing Cover onto the Control Unit. Tuck in all wires and make sure they are not pinched. Then turn the Unit over and secure the housing to the Control Unit base with six screws.

Step 39

REMOUNT CONTROL UNIT - Place the Control Unit back on the wall panel and secure it with four screws.

Step 40

CHECK OPERATION - Turn the power to the Control Unit ON and check its operation. After flashing for a short time the Power On and one of the Polarity LEDs should come on. This system is low on salt so its Add Salt LED is also on.


(1 to 16 of 16)

 Posted: 4/4/2018 

Thanks for the prompt reply. I was intrigued by your reply that an older unit commonly gives inaccurate salt level readings. I have now confirmed that my 9 year old CPSC36 unit continues to generate chlorine even though it thinks it has a low salt level. Owners manual says it shuts off if the salt level is too low. Guess I'll run it till it no longer produces before I replace it. Good, trouble free long life so far. Thanks again.

 Posted: 3/30/2018 

The salts cells usually last 3-5 years, depending on how much they are used. It is very common for a bad salt cell to give an incorrect salt reading. I doubt the PCB is the issue. You'd have other issues other than it just saying "add salt".

 Posted: 3/30/2018 

I have a CPSC36 with an 8 year old cell that is clean and shows no overheating of the electrical connectors. Salt level (by checking strips) is ~4000 ppm. However, I have an "add salt" light. How can I determine if it is the cell or the PCB that is causing the problem?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/28/2017 

Anonymous (CPSC) - If you have the older style cable with a single molded head, and it shows signs of melting, I might suggest replacing it. Before you do that, however, see our guide on " How To Isolate and Correct Compupool CPSC Problems" and look at step 10. Part c of that step says to check your cell Id. Here is a link to "Changing the Model Selection". If this doesn't correct your problem, be aware that Compupool has pulled out of the US and we can no longer stock replacement PCBs or have access to their customer support. Before sinking any more significant money into this product, you might consider switching to another SCG.

Anonymous  Posted: 6/25/2017 

I replaced my salt generator cell with the exact compupool generator cell, but not the control panel. The cell generates chlorine just fine, but the control panel shows an error message of "not genuine-call dealer" and shuts down the salt generator system, but not the filter. When I turn the control panel back on, it runs great for a couple of hours, then shuts down again with same error message.

I have made sure the contacts on the plug are clean and properly crimped. Is there anything else I should check or do? Does the cable need to be replaced?




InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/9/2017 

Michael M - This is not an easy replacement. I would go through the steps again just to make sure you completed all the steps. You might have someone go through it with you to double check the process. Also, check that the fuse was not blown.

 Posted: 6/7/2017 

Hello, I replaced the wire as instructed, but when I put the system back together it doesn't power on. Any suggestions?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/21/2016 

davidh - Yes, the black wire should not be loose. Also, check that the blue wire in step 33 is tight and that the ribbon in step 37 is all the way down.

 Posted: 11/20/2016 

Hi, in the image at step 23 what is the black wire going through the copper ring? Should it be firmly soldered to the circuit board? My system is not working correctly (reports "no water flow") and I noticed that wire is not securely connected.


 Posted: 8/6/2014 

Thanks much Sir. I am still waiting to get the parts from Compupool.
You are a great help. God bless you.


InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/14/2014 

Syed - I believe that the other ends of these wired are soldered into the control board.

 Posted: 7/13/2014 

Thanks for answering my question. It appears that you are cutting off the two wires and making splices to the pig tails of the old wires left off on the controller. If I wanted to completely disconnect the entire old wires and replace them with new ones, how would I do that? Are there any ring terminals on these wires? or are they hard wired to the controller with soldering? Thanks

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/13/2014 

Syed - Sorry, I don't understand the question. You have to cut off the old cord to replace it with the new cord.

 Posted: 7/12/2014 

What if I do not want to cut the wires or make the splice into existing wires? How would I do that?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/4/2013 

chrism - I was mistaken when I included the clear cup cover over the terminal leads. The cover is not required nor offered for this cell cable replacement. The three terminal leads are designed to be weather resistant and do not require the cover. I will add notes to the How To Guide to reflect this.

 Posted: 6/3/2013 

I purchased the new style cell cord and just received today.
Order number 418051
These install instruction show a clear cup cover to cover the wire connections to the cell.
I didn't receive this cup cover with my new cord.
How do I get this cup cover?