How to Install a Variable Speed V-Green 165 Pool Motor


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If you currently have a single speed (SS) pump and you would like to reduce your pool operating costs by as much as 80%, you should consider upgrading your pump with a Century Variable Speed (VS) V-Green 165 Pool Motor. To get these savings, it is only necessary to replace the motor. In all but a few cases, you would keep the housing end of the pump and just replace the motor. In this guide, we are replacing the SS motor of a Hayward Super 2 pump with a Century Variable Speed (VS) V-Green 165 Pool Motor. The VS motor adapts easily to the existing pump housing. Depending on your pump model, you would select either the VS motor with a square flange or one with a round flange. Although this guide features a Hayward Super II pump and a Century Variable Speed (VS) V-Green 165 Pool Motor, most of these steps are adaptable to most pumps.


Step by Step


Step 1

COLLECT TOOLS - Here's a list of common tools you will need to replace your motor: screwdrivers (Phillip head and flat), 9/16" socket wrench, 7/16" open end wrench, channel wrench or strap wrench, silicon gasket lubrication (do not use petroleum jelly), clean soft cloth, "GO KIT" - pool pump seal replacements

Step 2

TURN OFF POWER - Before you start, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor.

Step 3

REMOVE HOUSING BOLTS - Next you will want to remove the motor pool pump assembly from the wet end housing. Remove the six 9/16" bolts that hold the motor pool pump assembly to the housing. Note: some models have four bolts.

Step 4

PULL MOTOR OUT - Slide the motor assembly out of the pool pump housing. After the assembly is out, you should see the diffuser and diffuser gasket on the end of the assembly. If you do not see the diffuser or its gasket, check inside the housing.

Step 5

DISCONNECT BONDING WIRE - Unfasten the heavy copper bonding wire from bonding lug on pool pump motor. There may be more than one wire attached to this lug. You may have to use pliers if this lug is rusted.

Step 6

REMOVE SCREWS ON ELECTRICAL COVER - To gain access to the wiring, unscrew the two cover screws.

Step 7

REMOVE COVER - When you remove the cover, you will see a large capacitor.

Step 8

DISCHARGE CAPACITOR - Capacitors store power even when the pump has been turned off. To avoid a possible shock, you want to short out the capacitor by laying an insulated screwdriver across its leads. On rare occasion, these capacitors have been known to explode so it's a good practice to wear eye protection and to cover the capacitor with a cloth before shorting the leads.

Step 9

DISCONNECT POWER WIRES - Disconnect the three wires coming into the motor through the conduit. Use needlenose plyers to lift the red and black wires off their terminals and a screwdriver to remove the green ground wire.

Step 10

UNSCREW CONDUIT COLLAR - Unscrew the conduit collar to disconnect the conduit from the pool pump. You may need to use channel lock pliers.

Step 11

PULL POWER WIRES - Pull the three wires through metal elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the insulation off of the wires as you are pulling them out of the metal elbow. These are generally stiff wires. It will help to straighten them out before pulling them through the elbow.

Step 12

REMOVE ELBOW - Unscrew the metal conduit elbow. You will use it on the new motor.

Step 13

MOVE MOTOR - The motor is now completely disconnected and can be lifted out to be worked on in a more convenient area. We still have to remove the front end units off of the motor shaft including the diffuser, impeller and motor plates.

Step 14

REMOVE DIFFUSER - Pull the pool pump diffuser away from the motor assembly. It should snap off easily exposing the impeller.

Step 15

REMOVE IMPELLER RING - Remove the impeller ring. Note how the ring was placed on the impeller with the broader side up. This is marked on this ring but may not be marked on all rings. Note: Some motors do not have this impeller ring so don't panic if you can't find one.

Step 16

PREPARE TO REMOVE IMPELLER - To remove the impeller you will twist the impeller off in a counter-clockwise motion. The impeller cannot be freed from the motor shaft without first securing the motor shaft. Move to the back electrical end of the motor.

Step 17

SECURE MOTOR SHAFT - To secure the shaft from rotating, slide a 7/16" wrench behind the thermal protector until it engages with the flat end of the motor shaft.

Step 18

REMOVE IMPELLER - At the impeller end, twist off the impeller in a counter-clockwise. You may have to use a strap wrench to free up the impeller. It applies even pressure and is less likely to damage the impeller then something like channel lock pliers. This picture shows the two parts of the motor shaft seal after the impeller is off. We will replace these two parts of the shaft seal later in the guide.

Step 19

LIFT OFF SEAL PLATE - Remove the seal plate. It should just lift off.

Step 20

REMOVE MOTOR PLATE BOLTS - Using a 9/16" socket wrench, remove the four bolts that hold the motor mounting plate to the motor.

Step 21

REMOVE MOTOR PLATE - Lift off the motor mounting plate.

Step 22

VIEW MOTORS - This picture shows the old SS motor next to the new VS V-Green 165 motor.

Step 23

PLACE MOTOR PLATE ON NEW MOTOR - Place the motor mounting plate onto the new motor. Make sure that the mounting plate is placed correctly. For this pump, the top of the motor mounting plate is labeled "TOP".

Step 24

BOLT ON MOTOR PLATE - Bolt the motor mounting plate onto the new motor with the 4 bolts. It's a good practice to alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4) to seat the plate correctly.

Step 25

INSPECT SEAL PLATE - Inspect the motor seal plate for cracks or other damage. Replace the plate if required.

Step 26

POP OUT SHAFT SEAL - Half of the old shaft seal is still in the seal plate. Turn the plate over and pop the seal out with a screwdriver.

Step 27

CLEAN OUT SEAL PLATE - If the shaft seal was glued in, you may need to clean out the hole in the plate.

Step 28

PLACE WHITE HALF OF SHAFT SEAL - Set the new seal on the shaft inside the seal plate - white side up. Be very careful NOT TO TOUCH the white ceramic side of the seal with your hands.Use a clean cloth to push the seal into the seal plate.

Step 29

DISCARD SHAFT PROTECTOR - Discard the plastic shaft protector on the end of the motor shaft.

Step 30

PUT SEAL PLATE ON MOTOR - Place the motor seal plate onto the motor shaft seal so that it matches up with the motor mounting plate.

Step 31

REMOVE SHAFT SEAL FROM IMPELLER - Grab the seal on the pool pump impeller and twist it off. Make a note of how the seal is positioned on the impeller so you know how to place the new seal. It is possible to place this seal upside down. Note: You may have to also have to remove the metal collar if the new shaft seal also has one. Several people have written in saying that the new seal won't fit because they were trying to place the new collar on top of the old one.

Step 32

REMOVE METAL COLLAR FROM IMPELLER - Using a flat headed screwdriver, pry the metal collar off of the impeller.

Step 33

REMOVE RESIDUE FROM IMPELLER - Remove any other residue off of the impeller shaft.

Step 34

PUT NEW HALF OF SHAFT SEAL ON IMPELLER - Push the other half of the new seal onto the pool pump impeller. Place the new seal with the black SHINY side facing out.  Again, DO NOT touch the shiny surface of the seal that will make contact with the white surface of the seal in the seal plate. Fingerprints will cause the surfaces to burn.

Step 35

STABILIZE MOTOR SHAFT - At this point, we will want to put the impeller onto the new motor shaft which requires us to stablize the motor shaft. This motor has a little different setup than the single speed motor. To stabilize this motor shaft, you need to place a 5/16" Allen wrench into the hole in the back of the motor. Spin the shaft a little until the end of the shaft engages with the Allen wrench.

Step 36

TWIST IMPELLER ONTO MOTOR SHAFT - Place the impeller onto the motor shaft and spin it on with a clockwise motion. Do not overtighten. Just firm it up.

Step 37

PLACE IMPELLER RING ONTO IMPELLER - Place the white impeller ring onto the impeller with the wide side out. This is commonly marked on the ring.

Step 38

REMOVE OLD DIFFUSER GASKET - The GOKIT contains all the gaskets required to replace a motor including the diffuser gasket. Remove the old diffuser gasket from the diffuser.

Step 39

PLACE DIFFUSER ONTO SEAL PLATE - Place the diffuser onto the seal plate. It should just snap on. Make sure the diffuser is positioned correctly with the "TOP" label at the top.

Step 40

LUBRICATE DIFFUSER GASKET - Lubricate the diffuser gasket using a Teflon or silicone lubricant.

Step 41

SLIDE DIFFUSER GASKET ONTO DIFFUSER - Push the diffuser gasket onto the front of the diffuser to the base of the collar.

Step 42

VIEW ELECTRICAL PORTS - On the back of the motor, you will see two electrical ports. The right one is for the high voltage supply wires and the left one is for display and control low power voltage. Since we are not going to use the low voltage port at this time, make sure it is tightly closed.

Step 43

REPLACE HIGH VOLTAGE PLUG WITH ELBOW - Remove the plug on the high voltage port and replace it with the elbow from the old motor.

Step 44

REMOVE TERMINAL COVER - Remove the cover over the electrical terminal. It is held on with a single screw.

Step 45

INSERT POWER WIRES THOUGH ELBOW - Insert the three power wires through the electrical elbow. Be careful that you do not strip the wire insulation on the metal edges.

Step 46

CONNECT POWER WIRES TO TERMINAL - Connect the three power wires to the motor terminal. Black wire (hot) to terminal L1; Red wire (hot) to terminal L2; and green ground wire to the ground screw.

Step 47

ATTACH BONDING WIRE - Attach the bonding wire onto the motor's bonding lug.

Step 48

ATTACH CONDUIT COLLAR - Screw on electrical conduit collar onto the elbow.

Step 49

REPLACE HOUSING GASKET - Replace the old housing gasket with the new one from the GOKIT. Lubricate the new gasket with a Teflon or silicon-based lubricant

Step 50

PUSH MOTOR INTO PUMP HOUSING - Clean the portion of the motor plate that come in contact with the housing gasket and insert motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 51

BOLT ON MOTOR ASSEMBLY - Attached the motor assembly with the six bolts. When screwing in the bolts, alternate tightening bolts a few turns at a time (1,3,5,2,4,6) to seat the motor assembly evenly and prevent leaking.

Step 52

REPLACE STRAINER COVER GASKET - Remove the strainer cover and replace the old strainer cover gasket with a new one (in GOKIT). Lubricate gasket.

Step 53

REPLACE TERMINAL COVER - Replace the cover over the electrical terminals. Secure it with single screw.

Step 54

PRIME PUMP - Prime the pump and replace the cover.

Step 55

START MOTOR - Turn on power to the pump at the circuit breaker and push the start button on the motor control pad.

Step 56

REPLACEMENT COMPLETE - You have successfully replaced a single speed motor with a Century Variable Speed V-Green 165 Pool Motor. If you have any other questions, feel free to call us at 407-834-2200 or visit us at


(1 to 16 of 16)

 Posted: 5/1/2022 

Thanks so much for the video! I am replacing my original 2 speed 1.5 HP motor on my Jandy Stealth pump with the V-Green 1.65. My original electrical wiring has the red, black and green wires as shown but also a blue wire. Does this blue wire need to be used? Thanks!

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/2/2022 

The blue wire is not necessary for the variable speed installation. Dual speed motors have a unique wiring configuration that uses an extra wire than the usual single or variable speed.

 Posted: 9/8/2021 

Can i connect a V Green motor to my easy touch system?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/9/2021 

The V-Green motor can be connected to the Pentair EasyTouch, but all of the runtimes and schedule will be entered through the mounted timer on the motor. The EasyTouch would be used only to turn the pump on and off.

 Posted: 9/4/2021 

Would you please provide the seal part number for a salt chlorination pool and the diffuser gasket you replaced in the video for the vg165?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/7/2021 

The gaskets are matched to the pump housing and not the motor. We will need the model number of the pump and/or a picture of the pump housing.

 Posted: 9/7/2021 

Thanks. You actually answered my question. The pump housing is an intelliflo, the motor is the vgreen 165. I was looking at the motor not the pump. It all makes sense now.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/8/2021 


 Posted: 8/3/2021 

Thank you for this step-by-step video! (I wish you sold lawn tractor parts, too, since I have to take my carburetor off and clean it) The only thing I was surprised by was that he didn't clean anything while he had it apart. Thanks again for the really fast delivery and thorough instructions!!

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/4/2021 

You're welcome. Cleaning is optional, most DIY-ers may take the time to wipe o-rings, relubricate, and clean the gasket grooves. But again it isn't a required part of the process. Usually, the inside of pool pumps are pretty clean.

 Posted: 4/30/2021 

I have a separate pump motor for my polaris vacuum, that currently connects to my main pump motor, can I use this system with it?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/13/2021 

A Polaris Booster Pump uses a special motor, this VS is not compatible with it.

 Posted: 8/27/2020 

I have a mechanical timer for my old pump. Can I continue to use it? Will it harm this pump to turn on/off the power every day? If I do not use the mechanical timer, does this pump have an internal clock I can set? Or does it just start the programmed sequence from the time I push the start button? The reason this matters is that I have a second pump for my pool vac that is on a mechanical timer, and I want to synchronize the pool vac to come on while the pool pump is running at speed 1.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/27/2020 

The timer is not required for the V-Green 1.65 but most people use one. As you said, the motor does not have an internal timer, but if you set a schedule, it will start from when you press go.Turning the pump on and off through the timer, will not affect the lifespan of the unit.

 Posted: 3/5/2020 

Step 46: Attaching red and black wires to L1 and L2. Text is reverse of picture labels. Which is correct?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/9/2020 

The voltage is 230, so both lines are carrying 115 volts. It does not matter which wire goes to which terminal in those cases.