How To Replace a Hayward DE Filter Air Relief Valve


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With use, the Air Relief Valve on your Hayward DE Filter may be damaged and no longer function. This guide shows you how to replace the Air Relief Valve on your Hayward DE Filter.


Step by Step


Step 1

ORDER PARTS - Order an Air Relief Valve to have it on hand when you want to replace the damaged one.

Step 2

TURN OFF PUMP - Before you remove the broken Air Relief Valve, make sure you TURN OFF the pool pump.  For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the pump.

Step 3

RELIEVE PRESSURE - Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the filter during operation. To relieve pressure turn the Air Relief Valve lever on top of the filter counter-clockwise. Water may spray out initially as you see the pressure on the Pressure Gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 4

REMOVE PRESSURE GAUGE - The Pressure Gauge is located on the end of the Air Relief Valve on the Hayward DE Filter. Twist the Gauge off in a counter-clockwise direction. If it does not turn easily, use an open end wrench on the brass nut at the base of the Gauge.

Step 5

VIEW AIR RELIEF ASSEMBLY - The Air Relief Valve is secured with a nut on the underside of the Air Relief Assembly. To remove the Valve from the Assembly you must first remove the Assembly from the tank. The Assembly has "LOCK" and "UNLOCK" labels on top of the tank. To remove the Assembly you will have to rotate the Assembly counter-clockwise from the "LOCK" position to the "UNLOCK" position.

Step 6

REMOVE AIR RELIEF ASSEMBLY - You may have to use a strap clamp to rotate the Air Relief Assembly to its "UNLOCK" position.

Step 7

UNSCREW NUT ADAPTER - Turn the Air Relief Assembly over and remove the Nut Adapter.

Step 8

LIFT OFF AIR RELIEF VALVE - Turn the Air Relief Assembly upright and lift off the Air Relief Valve

Step 9

INSERT NEW AIR RELIEF VALVE - Lubricate the O-ring on the Air Relief Valve and insert the Valve into the top of the Air Relief Assembly.

Step 10

SECURE NEW AIR RELIEF VALVE - Turn the Air Relief Assembly over and screw the Nut Adapter onto the Air Relief Valve.

Step 11

LUBE FIRST O-RING - There are two O-rings for the Air Relief Assembly; one that fits onto a groove in the top of the tank; and one on the bottom of the Air Relief Assembly. Lubricate the tank O-ring first.

Step 12

LUBE SECOND O-RING - Lubricate the O-ring on the bottom of the Air Relief Assembly.

Step 13

SECURE AIR RELIEF ASSEMBLY - Place the Air Relief Assembly on the top of the tank so that the tab on the Assembly lines up with the "UNLOCK" label on the top of the tank. Then twist the Assembly clockwise 1/4 turn until the tab lines up with the "LOCK" label. You may have to use a strap wrench to twist the Assembly.

Step 14

TAPE PRESSURE GAUGE THREADS - Clean off the threads of the Pressure Gauge and then put 2-3 layers of plumber's Teflon tape on the threads. Wrap the tape in a clockwise direction so it will stay on as you screw the Gauge on.

Step 15

SCREW ON PRESSURE GAUGE - Thread the Pressure Gauge into the Air Relief Valve in a clockwise direction. Use an open end wrench to tighten the last 1/2 turn. Do not over tighten.

Step 16

TURN ON PUMP - Turn ON the power to the pump at the breaker box.

Step 17

CLOSE RELIEF VALVE - When a steady stream of water shoots out of the Air Relief Valve, close the Valve.

Step 18

CHECK READING - Check the pressure reading on the Pressure Gauge. It should read about 10-15 psi.  When the pressure moves up to 10 psi or so higher, it is time to backwash your filter.


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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/9/2015 

JAG - Not sure what's happening here. Sounds like the secret is not to lubricate the O-ring. Also sounds like your VS pump is priming at max speed of 3000 RPM all right then dropping down to 2900 for in-floor cleaner system. You could try dropping your in-floor cleaner speed some to just above where it is ineffective.

 Posted: 8/7/2015 

Update - I do have a VS pump. I spoke with the pool builder to try to get some idea of what the lowest safe maximum RPM would be, and they suggested no lower than 2900 because I have an in-floor cleaning system. I went to 3000, because he and I agreed that was a good place to start, but I still lost the O-ring. I replaced the entire relief valve again, but did not lubricate any of the O-rings this time. So far, so good since that change. I'm still running 3000 RPM as the maximum. Just so I'm clear, the maximum speed is based more on the pool's operations than it is on pump priming, right?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/1/2015 

JAG - Sounds like you have a VS pump. You can back your pump's RPM to the minimum level required to operate your pool's basic operations. For example, if you have a suction cleaner you can drop RPM to around 2400. Just filtration can generally operate below 1725. Please let me know if this works. I think something else is involved.

 Posted: 7/31/2015 

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the air relief valve again, and the o-ring came off a week later. One person has suggested that the prime speed might be set too high. From what I can tell, the only way to adjust the prime speed is by adjusting the maximum pump speed. The default is 3250, and that's where mine is set. How do I know what a safe number is to back it off to?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/24/2015 

JAG - I don't know what's going on here. The small O-ring inside the new air relief valve should come lubricated and the valve should be able to withstand a full range of pressures. If your pump pressure is strong enough to blow this O-ring, you should experience severe pressure issues with the grids and other tank O-rings.

 Posted: 7/24/2015 

Thank you for the straight-forward guide. One question... should the o-rings inside the air relief valve be lubricated, too? I had to replace my manual air relief valve because the little o-ring inside the valve got twisted up and cut while opening and closing the valve. I replaced the valve with a new one, and the same thing happened within three or four open and closes of the valve. Both times, the pump was in priming mode, and I was trying to bleed air out of the filter. It may be worth mentioning that the pump drive motor was just replaced the day before after the original failed. I almost wonder if the new motor is pushing the water harder, and it's causing the o-ring to deform when the valve is opened.