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How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 



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Steps

Things You'll Need

Aqua Rite Parts

Hayward Aqua Rite Salt System

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 

Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 

Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

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(321 to 360 of 590)

 Posted: 7/30/2016 

When I start my pump the no flow light flashes for 30 seconds or so then goes out. The Generating light comes on and then goes out within 10 seconds or so. It isn't generating chlorine as I am having to use tablets to maintain the pool.

We just replaced the generator with a Jacuzzi J-SC40H as that is what was available.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/30/2016 

I have problem similar to Jiggy28 in that Power LED doesn't come on and after No Flow goes off, Generating comes on for about 10 sec. and then it goes off too. I've replaced the NTC inrush current limiter twice now. At first it works normally and then some time later fails as described (not sure how long it takes to fail). Seems that something else is causing the failure of the inrush current limiter. Any ideas?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/27/2016 

larreddo - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It should help you isolate your problem. See page 2.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/26/2016 

my aquarite t15 panel is flashing check cell and low salt, but i have tested salt level is fine and already cleaned the cell with muratic solution this year. already replaced the resistor last year and doesnt look cracked, any suggestions
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/26/2016 

no panel lights - Try replacing the fuse first - right-hand side of the panel. Then look at the Hayward Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual pages 9-12 for more isolation tests.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/26/2016 

RookiePoolGuy - Strange, your LEDs and display should give you some indication of why your SCG is not producing chlorine. Try cleaning your cell if you haven't already. If it's 5 or more years old, you may have to replace it. Here's a link to the Hayward Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It should be able to isolate your issue further.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/25/2016 

When your aqua rite panel doesn't light up...what do I do?
 Reply

 Posted: 7/25/2016 

My AquaRite system looks fine the lights work as they should the voltages and current to the cell looks good but i have no chlorine in the pool.
Is it the cell?
How do I check the cell itself?
Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/25/2016 

Melanie - I assume that you have both pumps and the SCG running on the same circuit. Make sure the circuit breaker has a high enough amperage rating to carry all three. For the hot SCG, that sometimes means the control unit is using more amperage than intended. Amperage will go up when the salt level is too high. Have an independent source chek your salt level. If the cell hasn't been cleaned recently, try cleaning it.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/24/2016 

Our circuit breaker for the pool pump and booster pump has been tripping on a fairly regular basis. The only clue we have is that the box to the control for the chlorinator is very hot to the touch. However, the chlorinator seems to be working perfectly. Do you have any ideas?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/24/2016 

@ Starfish,
weird question :-)
Could it be that your system is running on 110volts? Usually the jumpers where your power cable is connected are set to 220volts. Your symptoms are pointing to a wrong power setting. Means a 220volt system running on 110 volts.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/23/2016 

Jayma - I don't know where you are confirming you have power to the unit. Make sure that the plug on the end of the cell cord is pushed in all the way. If that isn't the solution, here is a link to the Hayward Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. The section on "No LEDs/LCD Display", starting on page 9, should help you isolate your problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/21/2016 

Current limiter fixed my issue as you recommended. Thank you very much!!
Any pool product I need going forward will be purchased from you. You could have just said you need a main board but instead helped me troubleshoot down to a $6.00 component with shipping. I'll spread the word to my friends....thanks again!!
 Reply

 Posted: 7/21/2016 

Hi! I am at a loss... I have no lights at all on my Aqua rite chlorinator. I have replaced the entire control board, transmitter and now the display panel. Still nothing. We have confirmed that the unit is getting power. Any other ideas?! Thanks for your time!!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/21/2016 

Tjbnb - If your "no flow" LED does not come on when you unplug the wire from your Flow Switch, you probably have a problem with your main PCB. I'd recommend calling Hayward at 908-355-7995 to see what they suggest.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/21/2016 

Austin - Check that the cell type, t-15, displayed on your system is t-15. Recheck your salt level to verify it is between 2700 and 3400 ppm. Reset the average salt level. If all this checks out, I'd replace the cell.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/21/2016 

Jiggy28 - It sounds like your replacement main PCB is bad too. Did you get a new main PCB or a new display PCB that mounts on the main PCB? If it was a main PCB, I'd call Hayward and ask for another PCB. These are the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the main PCB. Check for burn marks around the flat disk in the upper right-hand corner of the PCB.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/19/2016 

My power light is not lit. Generator light pops on for few seconds then turns off. Chlorine is low and not generating. Contacted Hayward and they had me changed the flow switch. Same problem. They then advised its the main board. My unit is still under warranty so they sent a free replacement. Replaced the board, got the exact same problem. No flow light flashing for a few seconds (no other light on not even the power switch) then the generating light "only) comes on then everything shuts off after a few seconds. I have a new flow switch and a new main board. Everything is connected correctly and the flow switch points in the right direction. The only things I haven't check is the transformer and the t-15 cell. Any idea?
 Reply

 Posted: 7/18/2016 

When I unplug the wire to the call my no flow light does not come on. My power and generating lights are on as they should be.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/18/2016 

So I have a t15 the board says I'm at 0 on the salt level but I got the water tested and the guy said it tested at 5000ppm. I cleaned the cell and lowered the salt level and now the check salt and inspect cell light just come on after about 2 minutes of it being on with the pump running. Should I just go ahead and replace the cell I know it's over 5 years old
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/16/2016 

Roy - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/16/2016 

Followed steps in Diagnostics manual for No LED's/LCD display. My symptom after turning on no flow red led then power & generating green led's come on for a few seconds and then go off. Followed steps D through I, all good except step H no 3 to 5 volts between pins 1 and 3 (left to right). I have .5v between those pins. Does this mean main board is most likely bad?

Thanks and I appreciate having that Diagnostics Manual available on your website.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/12/2016 

TSC - These units have transformers in them which generate heat so depending on outside conditions, a unit can run very warm.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/11/2016 

I was just checking the panel again to see if everything was still working after changing the limiter yesterday. I noticed that the box feels very warm to the touch. Is this normal?
 Reply

 Posted: 7/11/2016 

Thanks! I changed it yesterday and it works now.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/11/2016 

MF - If the "NO'Flow" LED is on, your SCG is not producing chlorine. Check that the Flow Switch arrow is pointing in the direction of the water flow. Check that the Flow Switch plug is pushed in all the way and that its wire is not damaged. Check that the pump's impeller is not clogged. Clean or backwash your filter.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/9/2016 

My "no-flow"red light is , even though I know the water is flowing through.
Would this still be producing chlorine?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/8/2016 

Poolpete - Here's the link to the Current Limiter you need from Digikey.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/7/2016 

It appears that my current limiter is bad. Where would I find a new current limiter to change out on the main board?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/6/2016 

salt level 0 - Check that your displayed cell type is the same as your installed cell type. Then reset your average salt level. If this doesn't correct your problem, see page 17 of Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual for further suggestions.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/6/2016 

sharifish - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board. For more diagnostic support, look at Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual, page 21.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/6/2016 

TSC - Many of these problems seem to be related to a bad Currentl Limiter. If the Limiter looks burned and if you are handy enough to solder in a new Limiter, I would try that before buying a new PCB. Also, for more diagnostic support, look at Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual, page 21.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/3/2016 

My salt level on display shows 0. I had water tested they tell me its around 2350, which is low, but above 0.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/3/2016 

My power and generating lights turn on / off intermittently and my salt reading is wrong - 1300 vs. 2600 that was confirmed at Leslies. Called Hayward and they think it's not getting enough power, but they won't tell me any more than that. Can I just change the limiter?
 Reply

 Posted: 7/3/2016 

My power light is not lit. Generator light pops on for few seconds then turns off. Chlorine is low and not generating. I changed the 20 amp mini fuse. As it is Sunday, July 3rd.....I need to know what else I can do/check.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/30/2016 

Joe - You are correct. The control unit is only going to operate based on what it thinks the salt level is. Check to make sure that value of the cell type displayed is the same as the actually installed cell type. then try resetting your average salt level. See pages 4 and 5 of the Hayward Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/29/2016 

rey - Looks like you are in metric readings. If you want to display Standard US readings see our guide on "How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCG". Then reset your displayed cell type and your average salt level. See pages 4 and 5 of Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/28/2016 

My salt level reads 0.90 although I have added salt to the pool.
What should I do?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/28/2016 

cheryl - Check the displayed cell type to make sure it matches the install cell type. Then recalibrate the average salt level. See pages 4 and 5 of this Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual. Also, check this manual for other troubleshooting options. The black resister may not be a problem. Components can run hot. Check for burn marks on the board for possible problem areas.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/28/2016 

Algae building - You should run your pump at least 8 hours a day and you might consider shocking your pool in addition to running your SCG on superchlorinate. Remember that your superchlorinate cycle only operates when the pump is on. If you have algae in your pool, you will have to clean/backwash your filter several times to remove the algae from the pool and the filter.
 Reply