Model # W3SP0591SL100
Alternate Part #'s HAY-30-1067, HAYW3SP0591SL100
Available in a choice of attractive face rim models, from an injection-molded patterned design, made of rugged, non-corrosive glass-filled polypropylene; to a smooth, machine-polished stainless steel design, AstroLite Series light fixtures come standard in a wide range of voltages, wattage, and cord lengths to satisfy virtually any installation. Combined with Hayward's DuraNiche PVC niche, no other pool lighting system provides such value - all at the lowest installed cost.
Corrosion-free, thermoplastic or smooth, stainless steel face rim design
E-Z Lock clamp and reflector assembly for simple relamping
12 Volt, 100 and 300 Watt, 120 Volt, 300 and 500 Watt models for any installation
100% tested for safety and quality assurance
U.L. Listed for fresh water (Guide No. WBDT. File No E39338)
What is the difference between this and the SP0591SL100, which is what we currently have? The part that you screw the bulb into is broken, so I need to replace the light with something that will fit in the same niche (Pentair).
Hi Douglass, there is no actual difference between this light and model SP0591SL100 besides the "W3" digits in front of the part number that merely represents the online retail model number. This model is a Hayward Astrolite series pool light. If you have another series please use our live online chat feature to provide the model number that should be on a label on the rear of the light. If it is not there please provide pictures of the light including the front face, complete profile, and dimensions via chat and we may be able to locate the replacement.
Is it possible to replace the light housing while using the existing electric cable?
You cannot use your existing light cable. You will need to pull the new cord through the conduit on the new light.
1 to 2 hrs
Screwdriver, Pliers, Electrical stripping pliers
1.) Figure out which relay is the correct light by disconnecting them one at a time and observing when the good light no longer works. (Alternatively, use a continuity tester after step #7)
2.) I drained my Spa into my pool to make the work easier (pump on low, suction from spa, return to pool)
3.) Turn off all power to pool equipment from breakers
4.) Test that power is off in panel with multimeter
5.) Take picture of connections in panel
6.) Disconnect Hot/Neutral/Ground from panel for light fixture
7.) Unscrew trim bezel from light fixture and remove onto pool deck. Cut the wire. Test continuity from step 1 if necessary)
8.) Splice new wire from new light fixture onto cut end of old wire by removing 3-4" of sheathing, stripping the wires are twisting together (making sure to keep them all same length so each carries equal strain), and taping the connection thoroughly. Do not make the splice thicker than the unspliced wire.
9.) Remove any silicone caulk from the fixture wiring riser in the niche using needlenose pliers, a knife, and a lot of patience.
10) With help of a partner, have one person pull wire from the panel side, and the other feed the new wire into the niche. Pull until there is enough slack to keep the fixture on the pool deck for normal maintenance.
11.) Cut the extra wire from the panel side, strip the wires, and reconnect them as before.
12.) Install a bulb and the lens & gasket according to manufacturer instructions.
13.) If the light uses an incandescent or halogen bulb, do not test the light until the fixture is again mounted in the niche and submerged fully.
14.) Turn power back on and test!