Part # 6223-030
By Hayward Pool Products
Part # 6223-030
Manufacturer Code HAXBPK1932
Alternate Part #'s 0101421101, 614656, 6223-030, 6223-044, 6223-41, 6223-42, 6223-43, HAXBPK1932, 47-150-1813, HAY-151-8217
INYO # 6223-030 HAYWARD # HAXBPK1932 GENERAL DESCRIPTION: THIS IS THE BYPASS KIT USED IN THE HAYWARD H SERIES, ED1, ED2 HEATERS MADE AFTER 10-28-2000 INCLUDES: BLACK PLASTIC BAFFLE, ROUND PLASTIC BYPASS END, STAINLESS BYPASS SHAFT AND PLUG, BYPASS SPRING, AND THE HAXHOR1930 HEADER O-RING MATERIAL: BAFFLE AND END: BLACK PLASTIC BYPASS: STAINLESS STEEL THE BYPASS BAFFLE IS BASICALLY RECTANGULAR WITH A ROUNDED END THE ROUNDED END HAS A SINGLE 1-3/8" DIAMETER HOLE FOR THE FLOW CONTROL THERMOSTAT THERE ARE 2 - 5/8" DIAMETER HOLES NEXT TO THIS HOLE LENGTH: 10" WIDTH: 2-7/8 TOTAL HEIGHT: 3-3/8 MARKINGS: "0101421101" IS MOLDED INTO THE BOTTOM SPECIAL NOTE - THE BYPASS KIT FOR EARLIER HEATERS USES BRASS FITTINGS AND THE BAFFLE IS SHORTER AND HAS ONLY 2 HOLES TOTAL
Is this an OEM Hayward kit?
Hello. The Hayward H-Series Bypass Valve Kit (10/00-Current) - HAXBPK1932 is an OEM Hayward Kit.
Will this bypass valve work for Model # H250IDL2? I too have a knocking sound when heater kicks on and from the comments provided it sounds like a pretty easy process to replace this.
Will this work for model H400IDL (letter "I", not #1), with a serial number of 2010XXXX ?
will this kit work on my H400FDN model pool heater
Hayward H -series H 250
I need a bypass replacement plate as I think mine has broken it makes a banging noise when the heater kicks in
Brent, It will be difficult to confirm that the broken Bypass is making that sound you're hearing. Take unit apart to and inspect unit to confirm.
1 to 2 hrs
Pliers, Socket Set, Wrench Set, Adjustable Wrench
After a thorough review online from multiple sources, I determined the knocking noise coming from my spa heater was from a known flawed bypass valve part causing the water to boil inside the heater. After loosening the incoming and exit lines to the heater and the top and side cover to the heater, I removed the nuts holding the manifold in place.
Doing this made me realize the water pressure switch attached to the manifold had to be removed as well. This freed the manifold and sure enough, revealed the broken bypass valve and free-floating thermostat.
After I received the parts in surprisingly quick time, I was able to reverse the process and replace the broken parts. I lubed the rubber gaskets with lube specifically designed for pool equipment I picked up at a local pool store and tightened the nuts carefully until no leaks. Fired it up after a few cycles and voila, no knocking. I estimate this saved me hundreds of dollars based on past pool repairs in our area. Thanks for the quick shipping.