By Hayward Pool Products
Part # 6223-030
Manufacturer Code HAXBPK1932
Alternate Part #'s 0101421101, 614656, 6223-030, 6223-044, 6223-41, 6223-42, 6223-43, HAXBPK1932, 47-150-1813, HAY-151-8217, HPPHAXBPK1932
INYO # 6223-030 HAYWARD # HAXBPK1932 GENERAL DESCRIPTION: THIS IS THE BYPASS KIT USED IN THE HAYWARD H SERIES, ED1, ED2 HEATERS MADE AFTER 10-28-2000 INCLUDES: BLACK PLASTIC BAFFLE, ROUND PLASTIC BYPASS END, STAINLESS BYPASS SHAFT AND PLUG, BYPASS SPRING, AND THE HAXHOR1930 HEADER O-RING MATERIAL: BAFFLE AND END: BLACK PLASTIC BYPASS: STAINLESS STEEL THE BYPASS BAFFLE IS BASICALLY RECTANGULAR WITH A ROUNDED END THE ROUNDED END HAS A SINGLE 1-3/8" DIAMETER HOLE FOR THE FLOW CONTROL THERMOSTAT THERE ARE 2 - 5/8" DIAMETER HOLES NEXT TO THIS HOLE LENGTH: 10" WIDTH: 2-7/8 TOTAL HEIGHT: 3-3/8 MARKINGS: "0101421101" IS MOLDED INTO THE BOTTOM SPECIAL NOTE - THE BYPASS KIT FOR EARLIER HEATERS USES BRASS FITTINGS AND THE BAFFLE IS SHORTER AND HAS ONLY 2 HOLES TOTAL
Hayward H -series H 250
I need a bypass replacement plate as I think mine has broken it makes a banging noise when the heater kicks in
Reply
Brent, It will be difficult to confirm that the broken Bypass is making that sound you're hearing. Take unit apart to and inspect unit to confirm.
Reply
Will this part work on an h400ped2? Thanks!
Reply
Hi, Garrett. Yes, this By-Pass Kit - HAXBPK1932 will fit the H400PED2 unit.
Reply
How does this go together in the header?
Reply
Hi, Paul. Installation instructions are available on page 33-34 of the Hayward H-Series Heater Owner's Manual.
Reply
1 to 2 hrs
Pliers, Socket Set, Wrench Set, Adjustable Wrench
6 0
After a thorough review online from multiple sources, I determined the knocking noise coming from my spa heater was from a known flawed bypass valve part causing the water to boil inside the heater. After loosening the incoming and exit lines to the heater and the top and side cover to the heater, I removed the nuts holding the manifold in place.
Doing this made me realize the water pressure switch attached to the manifold had to be removed as well. This freed the manifold and sure enough, revealed the broken bypass valve and free-floating thermostat.
After I received the parts in surprisingly quick time, I was able to reverse the process and replace the broken parts. I lubed the rubber gaskets with lube specifically designed for pool equipment I picked up at a local pool store and tightened the nuts carefully until no leaks. Fired it up after a few cycles and voila, no knocking. I estimate this saved me hundreds of dollars based on past pool repairs in our area. Thanks for the quick shipping.
