How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump


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This guide will explain how to replace your inground pool pump motor. We will go step by step through disassembling your pool pump, discarding the old motor, repairing the new motor, its installation, and how to wire it.

If you have any questions about finding the correct replacement motor for your in-ground pool pump, read our guide on how to do so: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Note: Please read the complete guide before starting your installation.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor


Step by Step


Step 1

Select the Correct Replacement Motor - Find the Model (MOD), Catalog (CAT), or Part (P/N) on your old motor’s information tag and enter it into Inyo’s product search. 

If you cannot find the necessary information or want more information on identifying the correct replacement pool pump motor, read our guide: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 2

Select Replacement Shaft Seal or GOKIT - When replacing a pool pump motor, always replace the shaft seal; this seal is the last line of defense between the surging water in your pump housing and your brand new motor. 

To find the correct replacement shaft seal, you’ll need to identify the make and model of your pump housing. The pump’s model number or model should be listed on one of the pump housing stickers.

GOKITs (Gasket/O-Ring Kits) includes the shaft seal and major gaskets and seals for your specific pump housing. If your pump is older, it may be good to replace all seals while the pump is disassembled to ensure a watertight installation.

If you need help identifying your pump housing: Read our guide: How To Identify Your Pump Manufacturer

Related Articles - How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal 

Click Here to Find Your Pump's GOKIT

Step 3

Shut off Power to the Pump - Shut down the pump’s power source by flipping its breaker.

Step 4

Disconnect Bonding Wire - Unscrew the bonding wire lug to remove it from the motor.

Step 5

Remove Motor From Housing - Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the 6 to 8 (pump model specific) bolts from the pump seal plate, then pull the motor assembly away from the housing.

Step 6

Remove Motor Endcap - Use a screwdriver to loosen the motor endcap’s two screws. Place the endcap to the side after it’s removed.

Step 7

Short the Capacitor - The capacitor may store residual current, making the motor turn while we’re working. To prevent this misfire, using the tip of an insulated-handle screwdriver to both of the capacitor terminals leads to the discharge of the capacitor—also, Plac is a protective material or material between your face to prevent injury from sparks.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 8

Note Old Motor Wiring and Voltage Setting - Before disconnecting any terminal wires, note or take a picture of the motor’s terminal board. This will help ensure we set the correct voltage and wiring for the new motor installation.

Step 9

Disconnect Terminal Board Wires - Disconnect all hot, neutral, and ground wires from the terminal board.

These will be the wires coming into the motor from the conduit hole.

Step 10

Pull Wires - Pull the disconnected wires out of the motor through the conduit adapter.

Step 11

Remove Conduit Elbow - Unscrew the conduit adapter elbow from the old motor; place the adapter to the side for reuse on the new motor.

Step 12

Remove Diffuser - Remove the diffuser from the end of the motor assembly. Some pump models like the Hayward Super II use fins to stabilize the diffuser in the seal plate; this design allows you to pull the diffuser without tools. Other models like the Jandy Stealth uses screws to secure the diffuser to the seal plate; these will need to be removed first.

Step 13

Remove Impeller Wear Ring - Pull off the impeller’s wear ring.

Note: This step does not apply to all pump designs; not all pumps are designed with a wear ring.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 14

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Use a 9/16" wrench or a flathead screwdriver to stabilize the shaft.

Step 15

Remove Impeller Screw (If Necessary) - If your impeller uses an impeller screw, use a screwdriver to remove it. Not all impeller designs use an impeller lock screw like the impeller ring. Check your pump model’s parts listing before, or check for a screw during installation.

Note: The impeller lock screw is left-hand threaded (reverse thread). That is why you turn it clockwise to remove it.

Related Articles - Do I Need an Impeller Lock Screw?

Step 16

Unscrew Impeller from the Motor Shaft - While the motor shaft is stabilized, unscrew the impeller counter-clockwise.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 17

Remove the Seal plate (Motor Mounts to a Separate Mounting Plate) - Depending on the pump design, the seal plate may pull off easily after the impeller is removed because there’s a separate motor mount plate that backs the seal plate.

Step 18

Remove Seal Plate (Motor Mounts Directly to Seal Plate) - For models that use the seal plate as a mounting bracket, you will need to remove the four mounting bolts from the backside of the seal plate.

Step 19

Remove the New Motor’s Endcap - Re-screw the endcap screw on the new motor, and set the endcap screws aside for later re-installation.

Step 20

Install Motor Mounting Bracket or Seal Plate (Depending on Pump Design) - Use the four motor mount screws to reattach the seal plate or motor mount to the face of the motor.

The top of the motor mounting plate for this pump is labeled "TOP"—alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 21

Place the Plate Over the Mount Mount (Depending on Pump Design) - If your seal plate is separate from your motor mounting bracket, set it in place now.

Step 22

Remove Old Shaft Seal - Remove the old shaft seal from the old seal plate and impeller steam. Ensure to remove all bits of the old shaft seal, ensuring a snug fit of the new seal.

Note: There are two types of shaft seals used in modern pool pump design; one has the white ceramic side sit in the seal plate, and the spring-loaded side sits on the stem of the impeller. They are shown In Steps 23 & 25. The other standard design is vice versa; the white ceramic sits in an impeller cup around the impeller stem, while the spring-side sits in the seal plate. They are shown In Steps 24 & 26.

Refer to your owner’s manual or the corresponding pars schematic on our Inyo's Pool Pump Parts Finder

Step 23

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic in Seal Plate - Use a clean cloth to press the white ceramic side into the seal plate. First, make sure the Shaft seal is completely seated in the seal plate. Next, use a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt or finger grease that may have marked the smooth ring’s face.

Step 24

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic on impeller Stem - With a clean cloth, press the ceramic shaft seal into the impeller with the white ceramic side facing up.

Step 25

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side on Impeller - Slide the new shaft seal's spring-loaded side onto the impeller stem.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 26

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side Seal Plate -  Place a 1" PVC coupler over the seal and lightly hammer the seal into the plate. Check the front and back of the plate to ensure the seal is flush with the plate.

Tip: Apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the metal cup base of the spring-side piece. This will ensure the shaft seal stays secure in the seal plate during installation.

Step 27

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Stabilize the motor shaft with a 9/16” wrench.

Step 28

Install impeller - Hand-tighten impeller onto the end of the motor shaft.

Step 29

Re-Install Impeller Lock Screw (If Necessary) - Screw in the impeller lock screw if your pump requires one.

Step 30

Re-Install Impeller Ring (If Necessary) - Install the old impeller lock screw into the new impeller. Remember, this screw is a reverse thread “Lefty-Tighty.”

Step 31

Re-Install Diffuser - Place the diffuser over the impeller, and align the tabs (or screw holes) of the diffuser into the holes of the seal plate. Install diffuser screws (model dependent.)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 32

Install Diffuser O-Ring - Apply Teflon lube to the new diffuser o-ring, then slide it into place.

Step 33

Install Housing Gasket - Lube the housing gasket with either Teflon or silicone, then install it into the seal plate’s gasket groove.

Step 34

Mount Motor Assembly to Housing - Slid the motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 35

Install Pump Housing Bolts - Re-attach the 6 to 8  bolts to secure the motor assembly to the pump housing. The number of bolts varies depending on the model.

Step 36

Attach Conduit Adapter - Screw on the original conduit adapter to the new motor.

Step 37

Connect Wires to Terminal Board - Check your new motor’s wiring diagram to confirm wire orientations.

In this example, we had a single-speed motor running on 230v. We connected the Black hot line to L1, the Red hot line to L2, and the green ground line to the green screw.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 38

Attach Motor’s Endcap - install the motor’s endcap using two screws.

Step 39

Prime the pump - Use a hose to fill the strainer housing with water, then close the pump lid.

Related Articles - How To Prime a Pool Pump, How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime

Step 40

Turn on the Pump - Switch on the pump’s breaker, to restore power.


(121 to 160 of 215)

 Posted: 4/16/2016 

I installed new motor, primed and pumped great for 10 min. Then "pop" blew capacitor and one of the yellow leads to the capacitor was burnt in half. I switched the setting from 230 to 115 because that's the way the old was wired. Replaced that one myself about 10 years ago

Anonymous  Posted: 4/15/2016 

Hello and Thanks for the great video and step by step for replacing the motor; I was in middle of doing just that and was having problem figuring out how to get Inpelor off and then found your site and instruction guide. Thanks so much.. I was curious if you might know where i could find out exactly what motor it is that I have because all the labels are gone off pump and motor except stamped tag on the pump housing indicating Sta-Rite Model P456E-151L Code: 1F93M Waterford, WI I am not sure how to find out which motor it is so i can find replacement. Any suggestions you might have are greatly appreciated.. Thanks again for great guide..

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/29/2016 

no flow - If the pump will not prime, see our guide on " How To Prime a Pool Pump". If you are not getting sufficient flow, see our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Also, check to make sure you installed the impeller correctly when you replaced the motor.

Anonymous  Posted: 2/28/2016 

Installed motor seems to be running okay but does not pump water

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/2/2016 

Vince - Look at steps 8, 9, and 16 on our guide for "How To Install an In-Line Salt Chlorine Generator". It's specifically for installing a SCG but the voltage measurement and power hookup is the same for a pump motor. The output lines on the timer are actually going to both the SCG and the pump. See our guide on "How To Replace an Intermatic T104 Clock Motor" for information on the timer motor. It sounds like you already know but the T104 is for 220V and the T101 is for 110V.

 Posted: 1/31/2016 

Had pool pump motor replaced by pool service people. Now timer no longer works. Intermatic 104 timer is not grounded and not wired to schematic. There is no 110V connection at terminal 4 which makes me believe the replacement motor is wired 115V. How can I validate voltage and how can I test 208V clock motor for functionality? Service is 220V (single phase) with FPL priority switch in the circuit. Thank you in advance for your advice. Vince

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/5/2016 

Callie Marie - You might try it yourself first and if you get stuck have a professional come in and fix it. If you haven't worked with electricity before, you might better have a professional do it or have an electrician check it after you are done.

 Posted: 1/4/2016 

Thanks for the great guide for replacing the motor in my pump! It hasn't been working properly for weeks, and I have determined that it is most likely due to the motor. Even though you provide detailed step-by-step pictures, I'm still nervous about doing it myself. Would it be worth it to hire a professional to actually come and install the motor for me? 

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/28/2015 

motor on/off - It sounds like the supply voltage to your motor does not match the motor's voltage configuration. Change the motor's voltage configuration.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/27/2015 

208 V
HP 1.25
PH 1
RPM 3450
FR 48Y- I need a motor with these specs. It's to replace a whisperflo square flange motor. The one that's on thee now turns on and turns off. It continues to do that all day. The motor was just replaced 5 days ago. Can you please help... Thanks!


InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/17/2015 

dj - If the only thing you changed in your system was replacing the motor, I would concentrate on the pump. If your filter worked before the motor change, it should be working now. Same for suction leaks. Those would be a typical source of your problems, but I assume you didn't change anything on the suction side of the pump when you replaced the motor. I would take the motor out again and check that the impeller and diffuser are in place correctly and that the diffuser gasket in also in place.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/16/2015 

connected new Hayward motor turned it on but can't get it to backwash or return was told to bleed air tried for hrs but no result what can I do

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/3/2015 

smoke - Some part of your motor's electrical system is failing or has failed. Take the electrical cover off of the back of the motor and look for burn marks around the electrical components or wiring. It could also mean shorts in the motor windings. When a motor smokes, it's probably time to replace it.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/1/2015 

Why would motor smoke?

 Posted: 7/29/2015 

Excellent instructions for replacing a pool motor. I will tell everyone I know who has a pool about your website. My only regret is I didn't find your website sooner. I've had my pool about 15 years.

 Posted: 7/18/2015 

Excellent instructions!! I wish all the "How Tos" on the web were as good as this. I have just replaced my pool pump for the second time - lightning zapped it this time - using these instruction and it was a breeze/ Bought the replacement pump today (with seals/gasket set) and four hours later the pump is running again. Thank you very much. My only comment is that I had to use a smaller wrench than 7/16ths to lock the motor shaft.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/30/2015 

Jay - See our guide on "How To Install an Intermatic T104 Timer". Step #14 shows you how to hook up the "Lines" into the timer and Step #20 shows you how to hook up the "Loads" to the pump.

 Posted: 6/29/2015 

In hooking up a motor to the timer...the motor has three wires, green for ground, and two red leads to be hooked up to the timer. The timer has 5 terminals, 1 for common, Line 1, Load 1, Line 2 and Load 2. I want to hook up my two red leads to the timer. Where do they go? Line 1 and Line 2 ? Or What are the two Load lines for? Please elaborate for me.

 Posted: 6/29/2015 

I am replacing the motor and noticed a red wire from a micro switch from the top side of the timer came off the terminal...My problem is i don't know which lead it came off from? One is still on a terminal but other is just hanging close by...Which lead would it connect to?

Does it matter which red wire goes to whatever terminal on the timer? The motor has three wires to for ground, red hot and other red for the red wired connect to Line 1, and Line 2? on the clock terminal? or does it matter?


InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/22/2015 

Gill - Two possibilities: Can you replace the bonding lug? - unscrew the old one off the motor or relocated it to another hole on the motor. Or is there enough of a stub of wire where it was cut off that you could clamp the bonding wire on to with a split bolt. See "How To Add a Line to the Pool Bonding Wire".

 Posted: 6/22/2015 

This seems pretty straightforward, the pictures help greatly. One thing I noticed, the bonding lug on my pump is rusted up tight (WD-40 was useless). I was able to cut the bonding wire very close to the bonding lug in order to get it worked on, but a a piece of the wire is now stuck in the lug. How would you recommend safely reconnecting?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/17/2015 

Rob - See Step 30 of our guide on "How to Replace a Single Speed Motor with a 2Green Motor". One wire will go to L1, the other to L2.

 Posted: 5/15/2015 

Hi, replacing my motor with the 2Green 2 speed. I had a single speed motor with all the same specs as the new one. My old motor had the red wire hooked up to the A terminal and the black wire hooked to the B terminal. This new motor has an A terminal, L1 and L2. Does the red wire go to A and the black to either L1 or L2?

Thanks, Rob


Anonymous  Posted: 5/12/2015 

Thx much. Your video saved the day.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/5/2015 

beachin - Not sure why this isn't fitting. Both motors have the same frame, 56J, and we show the new motor being ~1/3 of an inch shorter. old SP1610Z1 = 13.35 and new B2977 = 13.03. Incidentally, your new motor is a 2-speed and the recommended equivalent 2-speed motor for this Hayward Northstar pump is SPX1610Z2MNS.

 Posted: 5/5/2015 

I am replacing a B2977 motor on Hayward Sp4010NS from a SP1610Z1. The new motor is longer and having trouble getting it to go into the motor assembly. It won't fit. Any help please... Thanks

 Posted: 5/3/2015 

Bought my motor last fall when the other one died and finally got around to replacing it once all the snow melted. Followed these instructions and had no problems. It was nice to have the gasket and seal kit that was recommended. Total time to replace and turn on was 2-3 hours. Thanks.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/9/2014 

Dave L - You should not run your pump with the motor unsupported. Generally pumps are sold with an insert for the mount so that you can add it to support a smaller motor. See if your mount has an inset added to it that you can remove to accommodate the larger diameter motor. If this doesn't work, see if you can buy a separate replaceable mount that can attach to the bottom of the pump.

 Posted: 12/6/2014 

I have a Sta-Rite Dyna-Glas 1.5 HP motor I'm replacing on a Sta-Rite Pump. I got a new 1.5 HP US Motor at the pool store and all went great until I tried to install it on the pump. The diameter of the new motor is larger and won't fit in the pump's stand. What do I do, Cut the stand apart, discard the stand under the motor, install the motor and let it hang off the pump?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/24/2014 

CCWPE - You are correct. The impeller is screwed on clockwise when viewed from the pump end, and the pump will rotate in a counter-clockwise direction when viewed from the pump end. I have no answer for how your impeller came off. An AC motor like these cannot be wired to reverse in the wrong direction. When the motor is in rotating, it will be tighten the impeller onto the shaft.

Anonymous  Posted: 11/23/2014 

Which direction should a Hayward Super Pump 2HP rotate - Clockwise or Counterclockwise? I replaced the impeller and noticed that you screw it on clockwise but the motor rotates counterclockwise and the impeller spun off and damaged the defuser.

 Posted: 10/19/2014 

used this for my college work !! all great stuff earned me a 2/1 :) thanks

 Posted: 7/26/2014 

Great Video! I watched this on and off all day today as I sucessfully changed my pump. I noted the comments of check the wiring so I did a foto before to examen. I am not the most mechanical but your video stepped me through, I had a Pentair wisper which is slightly different, but you still got me Though! AWESOME!

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/25/2014 

Check the power at the motor with a meter to make sure you are getting power to the motor. Make sure that the supply power matches how you have set up you motor. If you have 115V coming from the breaker box, make sure that your motor is set up for 115V. Make sure your wires are tight on the motor terminals.


 Posted: 7/24/2014 

Just installed new motor, getting power to both timer and motor yet it won't start... Any ideas?

Anonymous  Posted: 7/19/2014 

Very "VERY" helpful, thank you for sharing and taking the time to help out others, you are appreciated.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/9/2014 

overheated motor - Check to make sure that the supply voltage to your pump matches the voltage your pump is set for. If you are operating off an extension code ,l make sure it is heavy enough to carry the current to your pump. See our guide, "How To Troubleshoot a Pool Pump Motor - Motor Overheated", for other possible causes.

Anonymous  Posted: 7/8/2014 

I replaced my motor pump and hooked all the wires up (2 were red and one green for ground) I put everything back together and it started fine but after about 10-15 minutes it shut down and was very hot to touch. I let it cool and it started again but shut down when it got hot again. any ideas why this happened?? Thanks

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/28/2014 

Springhill - By circular pattern do you mean 1,2,3,4,5,6 or are you tightening the bolts as 1,3,5,2,4,6 as we recommend? Are any of your bolts stripped? Do they all screw down tightly? Look for any breaks or scratches in the seal plate or housing edge. Make sure the surfaces that come together are clean and smooth.

 Posted: 6/27/2014 

We use 3 Hayward Super2 pumps for our 2 pools. I've rebuilt all 3 with good success except on 2 of them when I put the motor assembly (impellar & diffuser) back onto the pump housing they will leak around the flat seal.I've tried installing it both vertically with the pump housing down to not force the joining and horizontally. Then tightening the bolts down in a circular pattern to allow even pressure on the seal. They just always leak and as the pump settles in the leak slows down or actually stops as if it's settling in but according to the flow meter the gpm increases?