How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite


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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Step by Step


Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 

Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 

Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual


(1 to 40 of 590)

 Posted: 6/26/2022 

My salt generator was working fine, we changed our pump and now when it is running the generating light comes on for 2-3 minutes and then my check cell and low salt light comes on. It’s not my cell, I tried in on another pool. What could be the problem?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/27/2022 

First, the new pump, is it a dual or variable speed set to a lower RPM? Another possibility is a dirty filter. If so, it could be causing a water flow issue. Or it could be a coincidence that the cell started flashing alerts after the pump service. It could just be time for your to clean it.

 Posted: 6/23/2022 

Hi. My “Diagnostic” button is not working. Any suggestions?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/24/2022 

If it's not working then you would need a new display board (GLX-PCB-DSP) to have a fully functional user interface.

 Posted: 6/20/2022 

voltage climbs to about 17.7 power and generating on, then climbs past and it shuts off and repeats, please help

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/27/2022 

We need to know the part number and the amperage of the cell.

 Posted: 6/27/2022 

replaced thermister,problemsolved

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/29/2022 

Thank you for the update.

 Posted: 5/20/2022 

My temperature reading is 115 that is way higher than the pool temperature of 80. What is the problem?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2022 

Is the cell still producing chlorine?

 Posted: 5/18/2022 

Hello. Had to buy a replacement main board as I found char marks on the red and black power plugs on the board. Installed the new board and worked for a few hours. Just checked and evey since it's been power cycling on and off. I checked and even when the display is off there's still voltage to the red and black power plugs. Any thoughts?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2022 

I'd check your wiring or have an electrician  come in to inspect the circuit. You may have an issue with the amount of voltage reaching the control box.

 Posted: 5/9/2022 

Just opened the pool and my Aqua Rite LED opens/starts by showing "90P," which is the the "Desired Output" code, which should be the fourth display after opening with the Salt Level. Resetting makes no difference. Do I need a new motherboard?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/11/2022 

What are the voltage and amps readings in the diagnostic menu? Make sure the correct cell size is selected before copying down the readings.

Anonymous  Posted: 4/21/2022 

Unit does not go into no flow when flow switch is unplugged. Also pull foams up when generator is on and adding fill water

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/22/2022 

If the pool water foams when adding water, it's telling you it has high levels of total dissolved solids (TDS); you need to clean your pool with a clarifier or flocculant. Is the chlorinator creating chlorine? Is the chlorinator showing a "No Flow" when the flow switch is installed?

 Posted: 8/11/2021 

My salt chlorinator seems to work fine on super chlorinate, but when I switch to Auto, the generating light does not come on and it seems as though salt is not being produced. Why/

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/12/2021 

When on super chlorinate, the cell runs for 24-hours straight. When you select Auto, the cell reverts to the output percentage selected. So, if you have a 40% set as the output, the cell will only run 40% during any given hour. The cell will alternate turning on/off in an hour in any given hour; it would produce chlorine for 40 percent of the time while not producing chlorine 60 percent. You may just be looking at the box when the cell is in the middle of an off-cycle.

 Posted: 7/21/2021 

I just replaced my t-cell. Display is working, but salt level reading never changes from 2500. I tested input power with volt meter and got 123.1 reading. The power/generating/super chlorinate LED come on, stay on 16 seconds, then go off for about 40 seconds, then back on for 15 - 18 seconds, then off again for about 15 seconds. Round the clock! Help!

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/23/2021 

Did you check the diagnostics menu to confirm the correct cell type is chosen? it may also take a day or so for the cell to get the average salinity level.

 Posted: 7/16/2021 

Here is the problem: When starting up, the no flow light blinks, then generating light glows, but no "power" light. The generating light then goes off. I replaced the PCB as a lightning storm fried it, Replaced the cell (fortunately under warranty and it was free), did then diagnostic tests and all resistances and AC voltage input was within tolerances. However the VAC coming out of the transformer only measures 11 Volts. I am feeling the transformer needs replacement also. Could this be the issue?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/4/2021 

If lightning fried the main PCB then there's a very good chance it damaged the transformer too. The AquaRite replacement transformer, GLX-XFMR.

 Posted: 11/9/2020 

My aqua-rite salt level started showing 2.2 instead of 3200. I don't know where the decimal point thing came from...I have had this system 10 years and changed the main board twice but I never had the salt level display with a decimal point. My salt cell is only 1 month old. I have disconnected it...done everything. It is still generating because I check my chlorine daily with a electronic device and test strips. Has anyone had this happen to them and how do you fix it. The decimal point thing isn't going to work for me.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/10/2020 

You may have accidentally changed the unit of measurement from the US standard to metric. You can see how to change it back using this guide: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCG

 Posted: 8/3/2020 

when i turn on generator things look normal. . after a few seconds the generator light goes off aand the check salt light turns red solid and the cell light comes on solid.. i cleaned the cell and nothing changes . salt level is good. what do you recommend i do. ?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/3/2020 

I would make sure that your control panel is set to the correct cell size. This value can be changed by accident pretty easily. You can also try recalibrating the salt level. This guide gives you the steps on how to complete both of those tasks, and a few other things to check:  Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Anonymous  Posted: 6/6/2020 

I have a no flow flashing and generations won’t stay on. Pool company changed out the board and put on a new cell. Still the same thing.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/23/2020 

Did they check that the flow switch is working correctly? Unscrew the flow switch from the plumbing tee and pinch the metal flap and rod together for a minute. If the no flow light doesn't go out, you have a bad flow switch.

 Posted: 4/23/2020 

My chlorine read out is 3.40. How do I change it to 3400. I've been through the service manual and don't find how to change

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/24/2020 

The steps to changing units of measurement can be found here: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCG

Anonymous  Posted: 4/24/2020 

Thanks, that fixed it

 Posted: 3/18/2020 

My control panel shows the green power light but the screen is blank. Ideas?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/19/2020 

I found this answer on our forum:I'd check the seven pins from the main board to the display board just to make sure that they are seated properly - one pin per hole.  I'd also check pins 2 and 4 (from left to right) for a range of 3 to 5 VDC.  If all pins are seated properly and pins 2 and 4 measure within range then I'd consider changing the display board.This is the parts page for the Hayward AquaRite

 Posted: 3/15/2020 

My display is showing HOT? What does this mean?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/16/2020 

The AquaRite's 'HOT' pops up if your water temp is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Check your water temp reading. If your AquaRite's water temp reading is 215 degrees the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.

 Posted: 5/23/2019 

i have an aquarite generator. i'm not producing any chlorine. I changed the cell but the control panel is still doing the same thing - so appears it wasn't the cell. Both the power and generating lights come on solid green for 15 seconds and then turn off for one minute. During that minute the voltage climbs from 3 to 18. a few seconds after the power and generating lights turn solid green - the voltage drops back down to 3. this cycle is just repeating itself over and over again. Assume there's an issue with one of the components in the control panel? thx for your help!

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2019 

Hello Jeff - Like Dean in the comment below, I'd check the current limiter on the main board. I'd also go through the troubleshooting flow chart on page 31 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide.

 Posted: 5/21/2019 

My Aqua Rite was not reading salt level correctly. Added salt to bring to 3000 and no change in readings. Salt cell was cleaned/serviced with no change. I replaced salt cell and readings went to 3500 but hasn’t changed even with significant rain diluting pool. Now the controller power light and chlorinating light will come on for 10 seconds and go off for 2 minutes and then continue to cycle on and off. Is this an indication to replace circuit board? I have power to board (220) and connections are good. Fuse is good.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/22/2019 

Hello Dean- We'd recommend checking the current limiter on the main circuit board. It's a flat round black disk that sticks out from the board. That piece can crack and cause symptoms like you are experiencing. Click here to view a video that shows the replacement of a current limiter. For more tips, check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide and the Quick Reference Guide.

 Posted: 5/17/2019 

what's the typical life span of a T Cell 15?