Part # 5270-31
Manufacturer Code 6203
Dimensions 17x40x12 mm
Alternate Part #'s 10000353, 1011956-001, 203LL, 35-125-2600, 38113, 604005-001, 604005001, 6203, 6203-2NSE9, ALA605002, APC6203, NA-6203-LL, NA6203LL, RBL-6203-LL, USS-60-5026, ALA-60-5002
Bearing, 203 (Single) - 62032RS
Motor Bearing, 6203, 17mm ID, 40mm OD
Is there a seal (rubber?)that sits inside the housing where the bearing came out of ?
Hello Brian. While we have a number of videos on how to repair many things on our site, this is not one of them. We do have a site we can suggest that does have a video on this and many other bearing fixes. It is wetheadpumprepair.com. Click HERE for just one of the bearing videos
I have an AO Smith Centurion switchless, 1 HP pool pump/motor with a label that reads Sta-Rite #168452, model #PHK2RA6E-102L, self priming serial #001J09L.
I need a replacement bearing and seal kit. Can you help?
Dan, Unfortunately the only way that we can find out what bearing is required for this motor is for you to take the motor apart and get the numbers off of the bearings.
What bearings should I use for a MagneTek Century Centurion motor, serial #BU6-19, part #10-177450-03?
John - your motor #10-177450-03 x-references to UQC1152 which uses two 203 bearings (Part # 5270-31).
I have a Hayward pump, I replaced the motor a few years ago with US motors 1hp for a In ground pool. I have a loud screaming noise and I believe I need to replace the bearings. I work on 40+ hp pumps at work, just never my pool pump. Curious if both bearings are 6203 ?
Hi Tim, We would need to know the model, part number of the motor or the part number off of the bearing that you have in order get you the correct replacement.
1 to 2 hrs
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers, Wrench Set, Bearing puller, multimeter
Replaced bearings, seals and capacitor. I got a 1hp Superpump for free that was thought to be junk. The main issue was very bad bearings especially the front one likely due to an old shaft seal. Because of this the capacitor blow out also. Total repair time was about an hour and cost was $70. Now a have a perfectly running spare with my current pump ~10 years old and getting a little load.
1. Had the necessary, basic hand tools and bearing puller (if you don’t, HF has them cheap an auto parts store will loan them). Don’t be tempted to use electric drills or impacts. Threads in the cast aluminum are soft and the long motor bolts can be delicate if there is a little corrosion.
2. Disassemble per the Inyopools video. These are pretty standard motors so not hard to figure out.
3. Cleaned and checked motor with multimeter, pressed new bearings on.
4. Re-assembled motor per the video.
5. Replaced all the seals. Save the water slinger because that won’t be in the kit.
6. Checked adjustment on v-switch. This is important on the older motors. Inyopool has a video on this too.
7. Replaced start capacitor.
8. Successful test and high-5’s all around.
1 to 2 hrs
Screwdriver, Socket Set, Wrench Set, Press and bearing splitter in order not to damage new bearings
1. Disconnect 2 hot wires and neutral wire from bavk of motor.
2. Remove front volute in order to spin off counterclockwise the impeller from the shaft. The back of the motor has cover over the back of the shaft that has slot for open end wrench to hold shaft stationary in order to spin off impellar.
3. Next unbolt the pump back housing to separate from motor . carefully remove the o ring sitting on the groove right behind the threads of the shaft.
4. Very carefully after spraying lots of penetrating oil into the bolt hole loosen the 5/16 thru bolts from rear of motor. Good idea to order new thru bolts as they usually shear off due to age and rust.
5. Pull the rotor toward the back of the motor.
6. Front bearing is usually pressed in the front aluminum motor housing.
7.Rear bearing is pressed on the rotor.
8. Drive out old bearing using press and suitable bearing splitter or using brute force hammer and punch.
9. Reverse process to install bearings. Using a press is ideal.
10 Reverse process to reassemble.
4 to 8 hrs
Screwdriver, Wrench Set, Adjustable Wrench, See my story
I decided to not replace my motor and ordered bearings, an O-ring rebuild kit, and a bearing puller. While waiting for those things to arrive I watched videos by INYOPools over and over. Removing the motor was not difficult, just awkward reaching one of the bolts. I set the motor on the kitchen counter and my son and I set to taking things apart. He said I should take pictures as we went along to aid in reassembling things. I only took one picture. Using a Sharpie to mark the meeting of fittings would have been extremely helpful but I could not find one anywhere in the house. Key point: have Sharpie. Unscrewing the impeller using a channel lock didn't work so I made my first trip to Harbor Freight to get a strap wrench ($5) which did a great job. Key point: strap wrenches work great without breaking the impeller. Then, when we got to removing the bearing from the impeller side we ran into a problem. That shaft is longer and the 4 in puller I had ordered was 1/4 inch too short and the claws would not grab the bearing. That started a trip to get a back to Harbor Freight, Ace Hardware, Northern Tool, and Lowes where none had a bearing puller. I ended up getting a 5 1/2 inch puller ($21) from Home Depot which also was too short but I was able to take the arms off and put them on the one I had ordered online and that worked well. Key point: get a bearing puller longer than 51/2 inches. I bought a piece of steel pipe (?$8) while I was at Home Depot that fit well over the center of the old bearing that I brought with me to HD. Also while we were at Northern Tool we bought grease ($4) which I had neglected to get in advance. Key point: have grease. The installation of the new bearings went well after my son complained that I was ill-prepared having no emory cloth to clean the shaft before we put on the new bearings and he had use emory boards meant for fingernails. Key point: have something to clean the shaft with. The rest was pretty straightforward except when we got confused in the location and order of washers and fittings. Key point: take pictures as you disassemble. The motor is running super quiet and smoothly! When my pool guy installed that "used" motor, it was always loud and screeching and I never liked it but he kept saying it was ok. Now it sounds like a great motor.
2 to 4 hrs
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket Set, Wrench Set, Adjustable Wrench, Bearing puller and pipe to remove and install bearing
I took the motor apart from the pump based on some troubleshooting on inyopools.com and determined that the motor bearings were bad. I called Inyo and they were able to find the correct bearings for me very quickly. I used bearing puller and removed the front and back bearings of motor and replaced with new one. I used a pipe to put the new bearings back in. Installed the motor back and it works fine.
2 to 4 hrs
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers, Socket Set, Wrench Set, Bearing puller
I wanted to have a set of bearings and a seal on hand for replacement during my next regular service of the hot tub.
Being over 25 years old, I had some difficulty verifying the necessary parts, and got excellent guidance online from INYO pools. Ordered parts which arrived in days and the following weekend, drained the tub for cleaning and a water change.
I wrestled the pump out and disassembled and cleaned the motor. Replaced the bearings and put in a fresh seal as always.
Very pleased to have the correct parts on hand for the job, and it went as smoothly as one could hope.
Thank you INYO pools, I will be back next time I need anything and will suggest you to anyone who needs pool and spa parts and supplies.
(4 out of 5 stars) Exact fit first time
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
This is an exact replacement for the two bearing in my older Polaris Booster pump. While the bearing is just fine, the support of the folks at Inyo Pools to determine the right product was the key.