How To Replace the Bearings in a Pool Pump Motor - Part I


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When your neighbors start complaining about your screeching pump, it's a good sign that the bearings in your pool pump motor have failed and it's time to either replace the motor or replace the bearings in the motor. This guide is broken up into two parts. Part I shows you a step by step approach to removing the bearings of your pool pump motor. Part II shows you how to replace the bearings and reassemble the motor. Although this guide is specific to the Hayward Super Pump Motor, many steps are applicable to other brands of motors.

Click Here to Find Your Motor Parts (Including Bearings, Capacitors, Switches & More)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor & Gasket Kit 

Things You'll Need


Step by Step


Step 1

REVIEW TOOLS REQUIRED - This is a picture of most of the tools and parts you will need to replace the bearings of your pool pump's motor. From the left, they include: a socket wrench, a set of new motor bearings, the bearing puller, a short pipe, a set of shaft seal parts, and a hammer. You will also need a set of external ring pliers shown in step #29.

Click Here to Find Your Motor Parts (Including Bearings, Capacitors, Switches & More)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor & Gasket Kit 

Step 2

REVIEW PUMP - In this guide we will be removing the bearings of a Hayward Super Pump as shown here. The motor will have to be removed from the pump's housing before we start. See the first part of our guide on "How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump" for instructions on removing this motor.

Step 3

REVIEW STARTING POINT - This is the starting point for this guide. We assume that the motor has been removed from the housing and the diffuser has been snapped off of the impeller.

Step 4

REMOVE ELECTRICAL COVER - At this point you will be removing the motor's impeller. To do that you must first secure the motor shaft. Go to the back end of the motor where the wires come in and remove the electrical cover. It is secured with two screws, one of which is circled in the picture.

Step 5

SECURE MOTOR SHAFT - Next, slip a flat open-ended wrench under the capacitor at the location shown until it engages with the flat portion of the shaft. This will keep the shaft from rotating.

Step 6

TWIST OFF IMPELLER - Go to the front end of the motor and remove the motor's impeller by rotating it counter-clockwise. If it will not rotate, use a strap wrench to loosen it.

Step 8

VIEW "TOP" MARKINGS - Note the location of the "TOP" markings on both the seal plate and the motor mounting plate. When you reassemble the motor, these markings must be positioned at the top of the motor.

Step 9

REPLACE MOTOR SHAFT SEAL - When your motor bearings fail, you should replace the shaft seal in your motor. As shown in this picture, the shaft seal is divided into two parts; one half goes on the impeller's shaft and one goes into the well of the seal plate. For more instruction on replacing the shaft seal, go to "How To Replace a Pool Motor Shaft Seal". 

Step 10

REMOVE MOTOR MOUNTING PLATE - Remove the motor mounting plate. It is attached to the motor with four bolts. Note: these bolts are shorter than the bolts used to secure the motor to the pump housing. Don't mix them.

Step 11

REMOVE WATER SLINGER - After you have removed the mounting plate, you will see a rubber boot around the motor shaft called a water slinger. It helps keep water out of the motor when the shaft seal begins to fail. Slip the water slinger off the shaft.

Step 12

REMOVE V-SWITCH - On a Hayward Super Pump the motor's governor is attached to the end of the motor shaft and must be removed before the shaft and rotor can be removed from the motor shell. To access the governor, first remove the V-switch as shown. It is secured with a single screw. Push it aside. It does not have to be disconnected from its wires.

Step 13

MOVE CAPACITOR - Next, release the motor capacitor from its bracket by removing the single screw at the top of the bracket. Push the capacitor to the side as shown. It does not have to be disconnected.

Step 14

REMOVE GOVERNOR SPRINGS - Now, using a pair of small needle nose pliers, slip the loops of the governor springs off of their post and remove the springs.

Step 15

REMOVE GOVERNOR WEIGHT - Remove the governor weight that pivot inside the governor bracket. You may have to apply slight pressure with the needle nose pliers to spread the bracket enough to slip out the weight.

Click Here to Find Your Motor Parts (Including Bearings, Capacitors, Switches & More)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor & Gasket Kit

Step 16

REMOVE GOVERNOR BRACKET - The screw that secures the governor bracket to the shaft should now be visible. Remove the screw and take out the bracket.

Step 17

VIEW DISASSEMBLED REAR END - From this picture you can see the freed end of the motor shaft.

Step 18

MARK END FRAMES - Mark the end frames and shell with a magic marker so the motor can be reassembled in the original configuration.

Step 19

VIEW END BOLTS - The motor is held together end to end with four through bolts. The heads of these bolts are shown in the picture.

Step 20

REMOVE THROUGH BOLTS - Unscrew the four through bolts and pull them out.

Step 21

KNOCK OFF FRONT END BELL - Using a hammer, lightly tap off the front end bell to separate it from the motor's shell.

Step 22

PULL OUT ROTOR AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY - Pull the motor's rotor and shaft assembly out of the motor's shell.

Step 23

LOCATE REAR BEARING LOAD SPRING - This motor has a circular bearing load spring in the rear bearing well. If the spring did not come out with the shaft, extract it from the rear well or shell,

Step 24

REMOVE BEARING LOCKING SCREW - The front bearing is held in position with a lock clip. Remove this clip by removing the locking screw shown in the picture. The locking clip should drop through the bottom of the motor.

Click Here to Find Your Motor Parts (Including Bearings, Capacitors, Switches & More)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor & Gasket Kit

Step 25

REMOVE FRONT END BELL - Remove the front end bell from the shaft by tapping the tabs of the bell lightly with a hammer. Continue tapping around the bell until the bell drops off.

Step 26

SET UP BEARING PULLER - Set up the bearing puller on the rear bearing as shown. The three teeth of the puller should be position of the outside race of the bearing to clear the clip ring on the backside of the bearing. The center post of the bearing puller should be positioned on the center of the motor shaft.

Step 27

PULL OFF REAR BEARING - Turn the nut on the bearing puller to work the bearing off the end of the motor shaft.

Step 28

CHECK BEARING ID - Check the id stamped into the side of the bearing to make sure you have bought the correct replacement bearing. This bearing reads 6203DW.

Step 29

REMOVE FRONT BEARING SNAP RING - The front bearing is held in place with a snap ring that will prevent the bearing from coming off the shaft. Using a pair of external ring pliers, spread the snap ring out of its groove on the shaft and slip the ring forward off the shaft.

Step 30

PULL OFF FRONT BEARING - Using the bearing puller as before, pull off the front bearing. There isn't much space behind this bearing, so you may have to jiggle the puller jaws around a bit to position them behind the bearing.

Step 31

SLIP OFF WASHER - There is a white washer behind the front bearing. Pull the washer off and set it aside.

Step 32

MOTOR DISASSEMBLY COMPLETE - This concludes the steps required to disassemble the motor and remove the motor bearing. For instructions on replacing the bearings and reassembling the motor see our guide on 'How To Replace the Bearings in a Pool Pump Motor - Part II.

Click Here to Find Your Motor Parts (Including Bearings, Capacitors, Switches & More)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor & Gasket Kit


(1 to 34 of 34)

 Posted: 7/19/2021 

I need to know the bearing part numbers for a Century Pool pump (purchased from you), SP3210Z1BE, Part 7-196336-20. I used your guide but don't see those listed.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/20/2021 

The SP3210Z1BE uses two of the 10000353 - Bearing, 203.

 Posted: 9/24/2020 

I got everything I need to replace the bearings. I got to the part to remove the 4 long screws. I got 2 out but the other 2 are rusted in. Do you have the P/N for this screw if I have to drill it out. Thank you

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/24/2020 

What is the part, model, or catalog number on your motor's label? A picture of the motor label would be most helpful.

 Posted: 10/1/2020 

I got everything I need to replace the bearings. I got to the part to remove the 4 long screws. I got 2 out but the other 2 are rusted in. Do you have the P/N for this screw if I have to drill it out. Thank you C48K2N143B1 SP1601Z1M

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/19/2020 

I believe this is the crew you are looking for: UST1102 Thru Bolt 8-32 x 8.63" - TBA832-863

 Posted: 9/24/2020 

Model C48K2N143B1 SP1601Z

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/5/2020 

The C48K2N143B1 pool pump motor uses two of the 62032RS bearing.

 Posted: 1/16/2020 

looking to see what size bearings I need for a Century pool pump. Model is B2853 with serial # 22013CH. Part 0-F56AA37A0-04. Type is CX. Frame is P56Y 1.0Hp. 60Hz. 3450 RPM. 230/115 Volts. 6.6/13.2 Amps.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/20/2020 

Hello Kenny - A B2853 poll pump motor would require two 6203 bearings. Click Here to view all of the available parts for the B2853 motor.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/13/2019 

I’ve replaced my sea and both bearings, but didn’t pay close attention and forgot to put back the white washers and the rear bearing spring load (or something like that). I know the spring load is important and will fix it tomorrow, but what about the two white plastic washers ? Thanks

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/14/2019 

If it was in there, it was likely in there for a reason. When you take something apart and then put it back together, you shouldn't have spare parts.

Anonymous  Posted: 11/26/2018 

What bearings would go with a A.O. Smith Part 7-193994-06 Type CX, FR Y56Y? Thanks

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/27/2018 

Hello Hicks - the 7-193994-06 pool pump motor requires two, 203 style motor bearings.

 Posted: 10/17/2018 

Do you have bearing for the century v-green 165?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/17/2018 

Hello David - The V-Green 1.65 uses two 6203 double sealed ball bearings.

Anonymous  Posted: 8/22/2018 

great how to but I demolished the threading on the shaft rod(at the male threaded impeller end and the female threaded end that takes the governor screw)with the bearing puller. after much effort I managed to rethread both. would advise to buffer the shaft ends with scrap nuts/threads/sockets(?) before applying all that pressure from the bearing puller.

 Posted: 12/11/2017 

In N Tx - Give us a call at 407-834-2200. If we can identify your motor from the motor label we can usually specify your motor bearings.

 Posted: 12/5/2017 

So this is a great article. I am in need of replacing bearings, but what I can't seem to figure out is where do I find part numbers for the pump bearings without having to pull the whole pump apart to get the part numbers off the bearings themselves. I don't really want the pump pulled apart that long (to get part #s then order and wait for shiping, etc) if possible.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/11/2017 

Unknown home - It sounds like your motor bearings are out of alignment and if the armature has been rubbing on the windings, you may need a new motor.

 Posted: 6/9/2017 

My pump motor is very loud, I checked the bearings and they are fine. It seems that the armature is rubbing on the windings . I had the motor on a bench and as I turned it by hand I could hear the rubbing. Is the motor bad? Why is the armature covered with a white compound?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/23/2017 

Zachary - Rust on the shaft will make it difficult to remove the bearings. Try squirting it will WD-40. Also, rust indicates that water got into your motor and it might also have shorted out the motor windings. You may be looking at replacing the motor.

 Posted: 3/23/2017 

Why are the bearings so hard to remove there is rust on the shaft is that a bad thing

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/6/2016 

Jim - Thank you for your comment and you raise a good point. If your motor is heavily corroded as you point out, your chances of saving it are slim. Even if you were able to get to and replace the bearing, there is a good chance that something else will go wrong with a motor that far gone.

 Posted: 6/3/2016 

Do yourself a favor and just buy a new motor. They used a new motor in the repair video for a reason. Your old motor everything will be corroded and the thru bolts will snap when you try to remove them. I've tried on two different occasions and two different motors with the same result. (Yes I soaked for long time with penetrating oil)

 Posted: 5/26/2016 

Great site, pics are awesome but there is another plastic washer behind rear bearing that was not shown or discussed. I hope it is not just my pump that had this.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/18/2016 

bearings - The screeching sound is an indication that your bearings are close to failing. I would replace them or the motor and the shaft seal. Your apparent vacuum air leak may be due to a loose or broken hose connection. Try holding the hose that floats on top of the water under the water. If that stops the air leak, you probably have a bad hose connection.

Anonymous  Posted: 5/17/2016 

I noticed air was getting in when I was vacuuming but pump runs fine when I'm not vacuuming. My took a flashlight out and noticed a small drip,of water from bottom of pump. Then when I turn pump on, it makes a screeching sound for about 5-10 seconds and then stops. Should I replace bearings as well as seal?

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/13/2015 

novice - If your motor is making loud metal noises that's probably your motor bearings going bad. Failing capacitors might hum but nothing loud. You might also take the motor out of the pump housing to see if the impeller or diffuser is rubbing on the inside of the housing. As to the location of the capacitors, the run capacitor is usually on the top of the motor under the bump. The start capacitor would be under the electrical cover at the back of the motor. See our guide on "How To Replace a Pool Pump Capacitor" for more information.

 Posted: 7/12/2015 

after replacing the capacitor, motor starts in slow speed, but not normal. when in normal pool mode it makes loud loose metal rubbing sound and shuts off to restart every 5 minutes until it runs, what else can be wrong? and if there are 2 capacitors, where are the located? I have AR smith two speed motor with capacitor on top which I replaced and it is a 25/ 370. thanks

PS, your article email link is not working.


InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/28/2015 

Martin - You could pull your pump's motor out of the pump housing to see if the impeller or diffuser are damaged and might be rubbing on the housing. See our guide on "How To Replace A Pool Pump Impeller" for instructions on pulling the motor. You would not have to remove the impeller to see if it was damaged.

 Posted: 6/28/2015 

How do you distinguish between failing bearings and other issues (such as maybe a small bit of debris caught and rubbing somewhere in the mechanism? Our pop-up motor suddenly started sounding louder than usual but does not screech and still seems to have almost full power. Perhaps one clue is, when it turns off instead of immediately going silent you can hear it spin down rather noisily for a couple seconds.

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/15/2015 

Bearing washer - Unfortunately, we do not sell that part. You may have to go to a motor shop to identify and buy it.

Anonymous  Posted: 4/13/2015 

Your website is very informative. The photos are great but my pool motor has a rusted metal washer behind the rubber water slinger. I can't find a parts list or diagram which shows this. I think they are inside the hub of the front bell. I measured the rusted washer and it looks like 5/8 id and 1.25 od. There is a another rubber washer under the rusty metal washer. Thanks. Joe