How To Wire A Pool Pump

WRITTEN BY:  Inyo Pools

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Pool pumps are wired to run on either 230V or 115V. Most are run on 230V and are preset at the manufacturers at 230V. If you are going to wire your own pool pump, you must first know what voltage is coming to your pump from the house circuit breaker. Also you must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electrician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pump motor and void your warranty.

Things You'll Need


Step by Step


Step 1

Measure the voltage on the wires going to your pool pump. See "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage". This voltage will be either 230-240V or 115-120V. Pool Pump manufacturers commonly list these as 230V or 115V. Generally you will have three wires coming to your pump. For 230V you will generally have a red, a black and a green wire. The red and black wires are both hot. There is no neutral. The green wire is always ground. For 115V the three wires are generally black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).

Step 2

CAUTION: Before you start wiring your pool pump, turn off all power to the pump at the breaker box.

Step 3

Unscrew the two screws that hold the cover over the back end of the motor. Remove the cover to expose the electrical connectors.

Step 4

Screw a metal elbow onto your pool pump at the end of the motor.

Step 5

Run conduit from the metal box to the pump. String your three wires thru the conduit and metal elbow into the end of the motor. Screw the conduit collar onto the end of the elbow. Ensure that your wire size is adequate for the HP rating and distance from the power source. Check your pool pump owners manual for the correct size. Wire sizes generally run 14 AWG for motors up to 1 HP and from 14 AWG to 10AWG for larger motors depending on HP and Voltage.

Step 6

If you are wiring for 230V, the three wires coming to the pool pump from the circuit box are red, black and green. In this example for Hayward pool pumps, red will go to the L1 terminal and black will go to the L2 terminal. The green wire will be under the green screw to the far right. In addition there is a black plug with two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V.

Step 7

For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND). The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.

Step 8

If you are wiring for 115V, the three wires to the pool pump will be black, white and green. Attach the white wire to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). Attach the black wire to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). Attach the green wire under the Ground screw (GND). The black plug is shifted in position so the the black wire is attached to terminal 4 Line 2 (L2) and the white wire is attached to terminal 5. Note: in this position the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at the 115V label.

Step 9

Replace the pool pump motor cover and secure it with the two screws.

Step 10

Lastly your pool pump motor must be bonded in accordance with local electrical code requirements. Use a solid copper conductor, size 8 AWG or larger. Run this wire from from a reinforcing rod to the pressure wire connector provided on the motor housing. Note: In this example the wire coming from the bottom of the picture is going to the pump. The upper wire is going to the heater to bond the heater.


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Anonymous  Posted: 06/23/2014 0:33 AM 

I have 3 wires going to the existing booster pump. The ground is green and 2 other red wires, After replacing the gasket and attempting to reattach the wires on the pump, I am thinking the two red wires are reversed which possibly reverses the direction of the impeller? Does it matter which way to reinstall the 2 red wires?
The pump sounds louder and does not seem to be pumping.
The other possibility is the pump did not prime, but i did not want to run it sucking air.
Thank you in advance for your opinion.

Inyopools  Posted: 06/17/2014 9:37 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

mark - The part number 94027120 links to a Jacuzzi Magnum Force Pump. It can be wired for either 115V or 230V. These voltages can vary 10% so 220V and 230V are equivalent. Here's the specs on that motor: "Jacuzzi Magnum Force". The owner's manual says that wiring instructions are on the motor label. For further information call Jacuzzi/Carvin at 450-250-4500.

mark  Posted: 06/16/2014 16:10 PM 

I old jacuzzi magnum pump 2.0 hp. just quit, I am thinking about ordering the jacuzzi magnum part. 94027120 looks like the intake and outtake should line up on the plumbing, is the new pump a 230v and I know my old one was one what i thought was 220 but must be 230v. does
this pump have instructions on how to wire ?

Inyopools  Posted: 06/09/2014 12:35 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Peter P - There should be L1 and L2 labels on the terminal that the white, brown and black wires connect to at the pump. Your red and blue wires would go to L1 and L2. If the terminal is not labeled, give Speck a call at 800-223-8538 for instructions.

Peter P  Posted: 06/06/2014 14:17 PM 

I have three wires for 230 volts from timer, the colors of the wires are green, red and blue. I have a Stark Pump Model 75035 which has been factory connected for 230 Volts. At the terminal of the pumps there are white, brown and black wires. The instruction is not specific. How do I connect the input wires to the pump terminals?

Inyopools  Posted: 06/06/2014 9:44 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Big Joe - If your old pump was 220V, you can assume that the supply voltage is 220V. The Black and Beige wires are both hot and you do not need a neutral wire. I assume your speed switch takes care of switching between high and low RPM and that function does not require a different timer.

BigJoe  Posted: 06/04/2014 17:03 PM 

.....Just to add... The current black and beige wires are connected to L1 and L2 on the old single speed, 2HP Hayward pump.

BigJoe  Posted: 06/04/2014 16:57 PM 

Hello. I just bought a Hayward 2hp 2 speed pump (it has a speed switch on it). My current Hayward 2hp single speed pump has a 220V connection, which plugs into my timer panel (there is a 220V female connector installed in it). The wiring running to the existing pump has Green, Black and Beige wires. Should I assume that the Black and Beige are hot? No red wire at all. Do I need a common wire? Thanks.

Inyopools  Posted: 06/03/2014 10:26 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Jandy pump wiring - Sounds like you are wired correctly. Terminals 1 and 2 are tied to L1 and terminals 3 and 4 are tied to L2. They just offer another option to connect to L1 and L2.

Anonymous  Posted: 06/03/2014 2:48 AM 

Just got a Jandy Stealth SHPF 1.5 from your store, pre-wired for 230V. The Jandy has wire connectors similar to the picture in Step 7. My feed is 230V. Shouldn't I be able to just connect the red wire to the screw on L1 and the black wire to the screw on L2 and the green wire to the ground screw? What is the importance of terminal 1 and 3?


Inyopools  Posted: 05/20/2014 10:52 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

mike in Jax nc - Make sure that your supply voltage matched your voltage configuration for you pump - 115V or 220V. Then check that all your wire connections are tight. If your power cord is old, you might consider replacing it. If your power line to the pump is long, you may need a higher gauge wire.

mike in Jax nc  Posted: 05/17/2014 21:20 PM 

I just installed a replacement motor to my pump, its a 1.5 hp when I turn it on it it clicking and running very slow? Any ideas what can be wrong?

Inyopools  Posted: 05/12/2014 9:18 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

cotta - Look at the label on the motor for the motor's voltage. If it only says 115V, you have to wire it to 115V supply. If it says 115/230, the motor can be wired for either 115 or 230V. The motors are generally shipped from the factory in 230V configuration. I would check the white lead that you have connected to ground with a multimeter to make sure it is 0 Volts. If your motor is running now as you have wired it, you are probably OK. Motor's will often run hot to the touch.

Anonymous  Posted: 05/11/2014 19:18 PM 

Awesome Video and instructions. Bought the new motor and pump rebuild kit from you guys so it was great to have instructions that covered the slightly different wiring of the new motor. Thanks again.

cotta  Posted: 05/09/2014 17:12 PM 

the pool motor is connected and ready to go on the flotec 1hp motor
in connecting the motor with one with 230 nothing has to be done to the
motor? or does it?
we connected the black wire to the one hot lead and the red wire to the other hot lead, and the white to the ground ? the motor seamed to get a little warm ??????? can help me with this?

Inyopools  Posted: 05/09/2014 16:38 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

ground wire - Use a multimeter to determine which of the three wires is ground. Two will have 120V and one [ground] will have 0V.

Anonymous  Posted: 05/08/2014 19:16 PM 

I have a 230 wiring. Black White and White. no green or red. one is not as bright white and maybe a little yellow. Which goes where?

Inyopools  Posted: 04/27/2014 9:06 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

pump hums - Sounds like a mismatch between supply voltage and the voltage your pump is set for. Check the incoming voltage with a multimeter and then check the configuration of the motor voltage. Your user's manual should show you how to configure your motor voltage.

Anonymous  Posted: 04/26/2014 9:48 AM 

I replaced my pentair pool pump and wired as per previous pentair pump. Green ground blue to L2,and black to A. Pump just hums when breaker is flipped on. I dont know if newer pump is wired different.

Inyopools  Posted: 04/25/2014 10:16 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

techknow - If your pump is on 220V, 12 gauge is fine for 25'. If your pump is running on 115V, you should go to 10 gauge to be safe.

techknow  Posted: 04/23/2014 17:09 PM 

Hi Inyopools support. I purchased a Hayward Aquatrol Return Jet salt water system. The way my above ground pool is set up, I have the pump in a shop, and plumbed to the pool. I want to install the chlorinator on the deck, and run a piece of conduit underground to the pump in the shop. Question: This is about a 25 foot run tops, can I use 12 gauge wire or do I need to go with a 10AWG? It's a 1.5HP Waterco pump. I can't mount the Aquatrol control box in the shop because the 15 foot cord to the cell is not long enough. I bought the RJ model because it was less expensive.

Inyopools  Posted: 03/07/2014 10:42 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

rsacock - It sounds like sometime is rubbing inside the pump. Take the motor out again and check to make sure the impeller is on tight and there is no debris between the impeller and the diffuser.

rsacock  Posted: 03/02/2014 10:48 AM 

Ordered replacement motor with exact specs of existing motor. New pump is wired per these online instructions because there was no manual included with new motor. Motor makes a terrible amount of noise, gives very little water pressure, and cuts off after 10 seconds. Selector is set for 115v as the supply is 115v. Very frustrated with this problem.

Inyopools  Posted: 11/24/2013 17:08 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Jeff - I'm not sure what your wiring setup is. Most 2-speed motors are controlled by an external switch of 2- speed timer. See our guide on "How To Wire a PE153 Digital Timer to a 2-Speed 230V Motor". It may not answer your question specially, but it will give you an idea of what's involved in wiring a 2-speed motor.

Jeff  Posted: 11/20/2013 12:37 PM 

Replacing a motor on my Hayward Tristar 2 speed pump. Old motor was an Emerson, new one is a Century. Anyway, the connections on each are labeled differently. The old connections on motor and as hardwired now are C-blk, H-red & L-blue. The one I know for sure is the ground-grn. New motor As received and wired is A-red, L1-blk
& L2-wht, and of course the green ground screw I know. How do I match up the old hard wires with new motor. The leads on new motor will come off...

Thanks foe the help on this site.

Inyopools  Posted: 10/27/2013 9:31 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

pentair motor - With AC motors it does not matter. Either of the two red wires can be connected to either L1 or L2 terminals.

Anonymous  Posted: 10/24/2013 15:32 PM 

Hello, I have a pentair motor I am replacing with a pentair motor. 230V My wires are 2 red and 1 green. How do I know which red goes to which post? Thx

Inyopools  Posted: 10/21/2013 11:53 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

cuffer - I don't know how your spa control pack is wired but look at Step 3 in our guide on "How To Wire a PE153 Digital Timer to a 2-Speed 230V Motor'. It will give you some insights in how a two speed motor is wired. In this configuration, L2 is always hot. For high speed, circuit/switch 1 is on - the switch between terminals 3 and 4 is closed and power flows to L2 - switch between 5 and 6 is open. For low speed, circuit 2 is on - the switch between terminals 5 and 6 is closed and power flows to A - switch between 3 and 4 is open.

Inyopools  Posted: 10/21/2013 11:32 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

HOTTUBFVR - I assume the two blue wires are your two power wires coming from your circuit breaker to your pump. The label on the pump motor should show you how to wire this specific pump. In general the two wires go to L1 and L2.

cuffer  Posted: 10/20/2013 17:58 PM 

I am needing some advice... I recently replaced my spa control pack and now the 230v motor is shutting down when put in high speed mode(thermal switch on motor)I have checked the voltage at the black wire in low and it reads 123v and when put on high the red wire reads 123v and 0 on the black wire... is this correct?

HOTTUBFVR  Posted: 10/20/2013 10:52 AM 

my pump controls both the the spa and the pool i recintly relaced an ceturion 1 1/2 hp moter with a sta -rite 1 1/2 moter but the old moter was wired with blue wires going to a and b and ground the new one is a or L1 or L2 and ground the is a 10 year old pentair system wiring grond no prob but two blue wires? whatto do?

Inyopools  Posted: 09/30/2013 10:48 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

No Electrician - It's hard to understand your problem without a picture of your wiring, but.. Look at Steps 7 and 16 on this Wiring Diagram. Step 7 spreads the components out so you can see the wiring better. The "black part" you are referring to may be the overload protector. It has a blue wire coming from it and going to L1. If your blue wire is going to L2 you have something different. In any case this is the back wiring to L1 and L2. You would still attach your supply wires to L1 and L2.

Horace  Posted: 09/28/2013 16:51 PM 

My hot tub leaked all the water out; filled it back up, turned it on, saw that the single pump motor was leaking between wet & dry section. Ordered a new one just like the old. Only diff, the new one had the capacitor instead & the wire was a little diff on the outside (the wires were covered in the old ones) New one has two places for the BLACK and the WHITE coming from the board. The wires they can connect to are YEL/BLACK and YELLOW. My question: BLACK to YELLOW/BLACK? (that's what we did; hot tub now turns on for 1/2 second then nothing! HELP!

No Electrician  Posted: 09/26/2013 16:58 PM 

I bought new pump supposedly just like old one to make switching out easy. But the new one has a black part in the back next to the terminals with a blue wire that is attached to one of the terminals on L2. On my old pump, a red wire was attached to L2. Can I have two wires on the same line? What is the part? I can't find it anywhere. Other than that everything is the same.

Inyopools  Posted: 09/12/2013 11:07 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Rick - Looks like you motor is set up for 220V. That's how they are normally shipped from the factory. The label says to rotate the knob CCW [counter clockwise] to set the voltage to 115V. Try rotating it CCW and see if 115V shows in the slot. If so, you are then set up for 115V. I would check the supply voltage with a multimeter to make sure you have 115V going to the pump. See our guide on "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage". If you have 220V going to the motor and your motor is set for 115V, you will fry the motor.

Inyopools  Posted: 09/12/2013 11:02 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

NateG - If you are referring to the terminal connectors clamped to the ends of the supply wires that attach to the terminal posts, the answer is no. These could be purchased at most any H/W store or you could hook the wires under the terminal screws as before.

Inyopools  Posted: 09/12/2013 10:56 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Kris - Get a multimeter and check the power reading in and out of your breaker box to isolate the problem. You may have a bad circuit breaker. See our guide on "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage".

NateG  Posted: 09/12/2013 2:27 AM 

I am switching out my whisperflo pentair motor with an A.O. Smith. When wiring this up will i need to buy terminal connectors or does the motor come with it? the pentair motor wires are just wrapped around the screws.

Kris  Posted: 09/11/2013 18:06 PM 

We had a bad rainstorm and now the breaker box has no power. It was running as it started to rain. We never lost electricity,and tried tripping it. No luck. Help

Rick  Posted: 09/10/2013 17:52 PM 

I think my pump motor was set to 230, but should be set to 115. Wiring is white; black and green. When you say the pointer is pointed at 115 or 230, does that mean that ONLY the proper voltage number can be seen and the other is hidden by the knob? The knob seems to point to 115, but the cut in the knob shows 230. The old motor had the 230 showing with the white; black and green wiring....and seemed to run fine....will a motor that's 115 run with the pointer at 230 and then die or ?