How To Wire A Pool Pump

Written by:  Danny Rhodehamel
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Pool pumps are wired to run on either 230V or 115V. Most are run on 230V and are preset at the manufacturers at 230V. If you are going to wire your own pool pump, you must first know what voltage is coming to your pump from the house circuit breaker. Also you must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electrician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pump motor and void your warranty.

Tips & Warnings

Video

Things You'll Need

Step by Step

Step 1

Measure the voltage on the wires going to your pool pump. See "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage". This voltage will be either 230-240V or 115-120V. Pool Pump manufacturers commonly list these as 230V or 115V. Generally you will have three wires coming to your pump. For 230V you will generally have a red, a black and a green wire. The red and black wires are both hot. There is no neutral. The green wire is always ground. For 115V the three wires are generally black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).

Step 2

CAUTION: Before you start wiring your pool pump, turn off all power to the pump at the breaker box.

Step 3
how to wire a pool pump

Unscrew the two screws that hold the cover over the back end of the motor. Remove the cover to expose the electrical connectors.

Step 4
pool pump wiring

Screw a metal elbow onto your pool pump at the end of the motor.

Step 5

Run conduit from the metal box to the pump. String your three wires thru the conduit and metal elbow into the end of the motor. Screw the conduit collar onto the end of the elbow. Ensure that your wire size is adequate for the HP rating and distance from the power source. Check your pool pump owners manual for the correct size. Wire sizes generally run 14 AWG for motors up to 1 HP and from 14 AWG to 10AWG for larger motors depending on HP and Voltage.

Step 6
hayward pool pump wiring

If you are wiring for 230V, the three wires coming to the pool pump from the circuit box are red, black and green. In this example for Hayward pool pumps, red will go to the L1 terminal and black will go to the L2 terminal. The green wire will be under the green screw to the far right. In addition there is a black plug with two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V.

Step 7
how to wire a pool pump

For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND). The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.

Step 8

If you are wiring for 115V, the three wires to the pool pump will be black, white and green. Attach the white wire to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). Attach the black wire to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). Attach the green wire under the Ground screw (GND). The black plug is shifted in position so the the black wire is attached to terminal 4 Line 2 (L2) and the white wire is attached to terminal 5. Note: in this position the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at the 115V label.

Step 9

Replace the pool pump motor cover and secure it with the two screws.

Step 10
how to wire a pool pump

Lastly your pool pump motor must be bonded in accordance with local electrical code requirements. Use a solid copper conductor, size 8 AWG or larger. Run this wire from from a reinforcing rod to the pressure wire connector provided on the motor housing. Note: In this example the wire coming from the bottom of the picture is going to the pump. The upper wire is going to the heater to bond the heater.

Comments (41 to 80 of 232)

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User: shona

Motor is wired and running good , thanks for your help . Any Idea why I"m getting air bubbles out of the jets ? The fun never ends.

User: Inyopools

nkll - Yes, if you are sure the old motor was set up for 230V, you can assume that your supply voltage is 230V.

User: Inyopools

shona - Yes, for 115V the black plug will cover both 4 and 5 terminals and the arrow will be pointing at 115V.

User: Inyopools

shona - White, black and green is usually the wiring for 115V but not always. You should check the voltage going into the pump to be sure. If your supply voltage is 230V and your motor is 115V, you will fry the motor. See our guide on "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage".

User: Rob

I replaced my pump with a two-speed Hayward TriStar pump. When I wired it initially (220V), I mistakenly put the red and black wires on L1 and L2, and the common on A. It ran briefly and then quit. I corrected the wiring (black on L1, red on A, and white on L2), but it doesn't run at all now. The circuit breaker is not blown. Could there be an internal breaker on the motor? Help!

User: nkII

Hi! I am replacing a Polaris PB4-60. The old pump is set for 230V so I assume that I have 230V running to the pump. I have 2 blue and 1 white wire. Is this a safe assumption? Thank you!

User: shona

1 more question to clarify things. for 115 volt the black plug is covering both 4 and 5 right ?

User: shona

my old motor was set up Black and white wire to B L1 ,Black to A. wires coming in Black to A L1, White to B L2 .is this the set up for 115 volt ? I wired the new motor for 115 volt and it immediately trips the breaker. I have 2 40 amp fuses at the fuse box.Also the old motor was 3/4 hp and the new one is 1 hp. help my husband is away for 2 weeks and I'm trying to figure this out on my own

User: Inyopools

shona - Look at the upper portion of the motor label. There should be simple instruction on how to convert from one voltage to the other. It's often as simple as tuning a large hex nut from one setting to the other. You will have to remove the cover on the back end of the motor to access this setting mechanism. Make sure the power is off.

User: 

I just bought a new pump to replace the one that died. unfortunately the new pump is set for 230 and the voltage is 115 how do I change the pump setting without paying big bucks for an electrition? shona

User: rick

thanks, I figured it out this morning. The pump came wired for 230v but the clip was not connected to both terminals 4 + 5, only to terminal 5, when I connected it to both it works fine. Thanks.

User: Inyopools

rick - Sounds like you are getting power to the motor through the switch box. But you could verify the switch by opening the box and wiring the input and output wires directly together - bypassing the switch. If your motor still turns off, you have a motor problem. Check that the voltage from the circuit breaker is the same as the motor voltage. If your motor is set up for 230V and your supply voltage is 115V, your motor will cycle on and off. If you need further help, call Hayward at 908-355-7995

User: rick

I followed your diagrams to wire in a new Hayward pump. The wire from the house goes into a switch which then goes into the motor. After getting the motor wired (I did not open the switch box)I turned the breaker back on then turned the switch on to the motor, but the motor just keeps coming on and gong right off, doesn't kick the breaker or anything.....is there now something wrong with the switch box??

User: Inyopools

Donna - Yes, you can place the wires under the screws. It's a good practice to bend the end of the wire to the right in a small semi-circle to lessen the chance of the wire pulling out. After you have screwed the wires down, pull on them to make sure they are connected securely.

User: Donna

When wiring a Hayward super pump motor (the electrical cord...we bought a replacement pump and are using the cord from the old motor), can the wires be attached to the screws or do they have to be attached to the prongs coming out of the screws? Never had to do this before and am new at this......

User: Inyopools

Lisa - First check to see what voltage your 115/230V pump motor is set up for. It will be either 115V or 230V. Make sure the motor is set up for the supply voltage from the breaker box. Then match the receptacle box to that voltage.

User: Inyopools

Dave - If you have a timer, I would wire both pump and heater to the output of the timer.

User: Dave

we are installing an new pool heater (Zodiac LRZ). I need some help on the wiring of the heater and the pump. The heater is wired to 220V and has 3 wires coming out the side of cabinet. I guess the question is - how do I wire the heater and pump together? Control panel? Heater feed electric to pump?....

User: Lisa

Just replaced old filter with Hayward 1.5hp 115/230v filter. Got a new plug (don't know number plug) that goes with 115/230v. Need to replace the outlet to fit the prongs of the plug. Installing new receptacle. should the volts of the outlet match the 115/230 and can we use a receptacle of 250 volts? I hoe this makes sense...all new to me.

User: Inyopools

ndg - The grounding rod should be OK for the grounding wire but you should check the code. The bonding wire should be attached to the bonding grid surrounding the pool. It prevents different voltage potentials from building up across equipment in the pool system.

User: ndg

Hi
My pump had only the two hot lines and no ground but did have a bonding wire. Conduit runs from the panel to the pool light and down to the pump. Somewhere, the ground was removed.

An electrician added a ground rod at the pump and grounded the pump to it. He tied the bonding wire to the same lug on the grounding rod. Is this o.k.? Should my pump ground run back to the main panel? I think the same bonding wire that goes to the niche is again attached to the conduit from the main panel. Thanks.

User: Inyopools

woody - You will have to measure the voltage on the two black wires with a multimeter. See our guide on "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage".

User: woody

WHAT IF I HAVE TWO BLACK WIRES AND ONE GREEN WIRE LEADING TO THE OLD MOTOR/PUMP THAT I AM REPLACING? I'M INSTALLING A NEW PENTAIR WHISPERFLO PUMP AND MOTOR. A WFE-6.

User: Inyopools

hairbear - To prevent possible and serious shocks, you need both a ground wire and a bonding wire. The grounding wire provides a ground to the electrical system. The bonding wire prevents voltage differences between the electrical systems around your pool. You will need to provide a green wire back to the breaker box or timer if you have one there. You can extend the bonding wire using a split bolt. See our guide on " How To Add a Line to the Pool Bonding Wire".

User: hairbear

I bought a new Whisperflo pump to replace my ancient one, which was wired for 230V. When I undid the conduit, there were only 2 red wires to terminals 1 and 2, but no green one. There is a bonding wire, but it is too short to reach the terminal on the new pump.
Do I need my circuit box re-wired to get a green lead, or is it OK functioning without one?

User: Inyopools

PJ - Is this an old pump? Can you check the windings to see if they are shorting? Does the motor shaft rotate freely? Sometimes the circuit breakers go bad. Do you have access to another that you could try? Maybe a neighbor's.

User: Inyopools

bjohn - I believe you need a neutral (generally white)- not hot wire for 115V. Two hot wires and a ground will not do it.

User: PJ

OK, I have done what you suggested. I removed the connection to the pump at the breaker and flipped the breaker on and it stayed on. Accomplished a multimeter test and found that I am getting 120 volts on the breaker (2 pole 20 Amp CB) both sides for a total of 240 volts to the pump. I then re-connected the wires to the breaker and disconnected them from the pump itself and again turned on the breaker tested and again had the 120 volts on each side. Reconnected to the pump and flipped the breaker and it immediately tripped. The run from the breaker to the pump is in liquid tight flex about 6 feet in length. The wires going to the pump from the breaker are 12 AWG. In the panel itself has a shared ground/neutral bus. The white wire coming from the GFCI breaker is connected to this bus. Additionally the ground wire runs from this bus to the ground lug within the pump. I am now at a loss, what would be the next course of action? Appreciate the assistance.

User: bjohn

I need a 120v receptacle by my filter it is 240v can I tap into it to get 120v? It has 2 hot and a ground.

User: Inyopools

PJ - You have to be sure what power is coming to the pump. Have someone measure it with a mutimeter. If you have 230V coming in and you configure your pump for 115V, you will fry your motor. If you have 115V coming in and your pump is set for 220V, your pump will cycle on and off. If the circuit breaker trips right after you turn the pump on, you may have the pump wired wrong.

User: PJ

My pump wires were dangling out of the pump so I disconnected the wires from the pump and replaced the water tight flex and box connector. When I finished re-connecting the wires and turned the circuit breaker on it tripped. Tried a couple of things but still no running of the pump. By reading the power requirements for my hayward T1102 1HP pump I noticed that the circuit breakers are 20 Amps and this indicates that the pump should be wired as 115 volts. However my pump switch is set to 230 volts. Is it possible that the switch was bumped while installing the wires. What will happen if I switch it to 115 volts and flip the circuit breaker on? Just trying to keep from burning anything up. Thanks.

User: Inyopools

JP - Because this is AC current, it does not matter if the black wire is attached to L1 or L2. Make sure that your supply voltage is 115V and that the motor is configured for 115V.

User: JP

Have a new hayward super pump that I want to set up on 115V. Does the black wire go on L1 or L2?

User: Inyopools

wiring - It sounds like you have four wires coming from your power supply box -black, blue, white and green. Check the voltage across a pair of wires for 230V. I would guess it's the black and blue wires. If you have 240V across black /blue, connect those wires to L1 and L2. White is extra but I would cap it off with an electrical wing nut. Green goes to the ground screw. Make sure your motor is configured for 240V.

User: beezdotcom

Thanks to user jgianoli for mentioning his problem with the spade terminals being at an angle and preventing him from easily switching from 230v to 115v...I had the same problem! Now, thankfully, I have the same solution, too.

User: 

myold trasstar had four wires black blue white and green the new super pump has only three l1 red l2 black green wire to screw. where does the white wire connect . is this the correct wiring settings

User: Inyopools

cpe.ru90 - According to the motor rep, because this is AC power, it does not matter if the black is on L2 or L1. Black and White wires can be swapped.

User: cpe.ru90

hi, I am in the process of replacing a 115v configured super pump ust1152. while disconnecting the electrical I made note that the black was connected to L1 and the white to L2, which is opposite of what your how-to states. would the pump still work if it was wired this (incorrect) way or did I record the connections incorrectly? thanks, chris

User: Inyopools

T.I. - Unfortunately I have no information on this relay. I would suggest submitting your question to Omron directly using this contact form.

User: T.I.

I have a 2HP pool motor to be installed. How would you connect the wires back to Omron G7-2A-BUBJ-CB DC24 relay? Thanks.

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Tips & Warnings

Make sure that your pump is connected to a GFCI circuit.

Make sure all power to the pump is turned off at the circuit breaker before wiring the pump.

If your are unfamiliar with local electrical codes and regulations have a licensed electrician check your wiring.

Wires will very according to the manufacturer of your pool pump. Please contact the manufacturer if you are unsure of the configuration of your pool pump.


Please Note:

Inyo Pool Products is not responsible for any injury or damaged equipment
while using our guides. Using our guides is doing so at your own risk.
These guides are suggested use of your pool or spa equipment and may vary
depending on which product you are using.