How To Wire A Pool Pump

WRITTEN BY:  Inyo Pools

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Pool pumps are wired to run on either 230V or 115V. Most are run on 230V and are preset at the manufacturers at 230V. If you are going to wire your own pool pump, you must first know what voltage is coming to your pump from the house circuit breaker. Also you must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electrician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pump motor and void your warranty.

Things You'll Need


Step by Step


Step 1

Measure the voltage on the wires going to your pool pump. See "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage". This voltage will be either 230-240V or 115-120V. Pool Pump manufacturers commonly list these as 230V or 115V. Generally you will have three wires coming to your pump. For 230V you will generally have a red, a black and a green wire. The red and black wires are both hot. There is no neutral. The green wire is always ground. For 115V the three wires are generally black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).

Step 2

CAUTION: Before you start wiring your pool pump, turn off all power to the pump at the breaker box.

Step 3

Unscrew the two screws that hold the cover over the back end of the motor. Remove the cover to expose the electrical connectors.

Step 4

Screw a metal elbow onto your pool pump at the end of the motor.

Step 5

Run conduit from the metal box to the pump. String your three wires thru the conduit and metal elbow into the end of the motor. Screw the conduit collar onto the end of the elbow. Ensure that your wire size is adequate for the HP rating and distance from the power source. Check your pool pump owners manual for the correct size. Wire sizes generally run 14 AWG for motors up to 1 HP and from 14 AWG to 10AWG for larger motors depending on HP and Voltage.

Step 6

If you are wiring for 230V, the three wires coming to the pool pump from the circuit box are red, black and green. In this example for Hayward pool pumps, red will go to the L1 terminal and black will go to the L2 terminal. The green wire will be under the green screw to the far right. In addition there is a black plug with two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V.

Step 7

For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND). The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.

Step 8

If you are wiring for 115V, the three wires to the pool pump will be black, white and green. Attach the white (115 V) wire to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). Attach the black wire (0 V) to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). Attach the green wire under the Ground screw (GND). The black plug is shifted in position so the black wire is attached to terminal 4 Line 2 (L2) and the white wire is attached to terminal 5. Note: in this position the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at the 115V label.

Step 9

Replace the pool pump motor cover and secure it with the two screws.

Step 10

Lastly your pool pump motor must be bonded in accordance with local electrical code requirements. Use a solid copper conductor, size 8 AWG or larger. Run this wire from from a reinforcing rod to the pressure wire connector provided on the motor housing. Note: In this example the wire coming from the bottom of the picture is going to the pump. The upper wire is going to the heater to bond the heater.


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Inyopools  Posted: 12/05/2016 11:26 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Bob - According to the pump motor manufacturers, the wires are interchangeable. The white wire can go to either L1 or L2.

Bob  Posted: 12/03/2016 15:01 PM 

I am starting to think your instruction for the 115V wiring is incorrect. My Hayward pump wiring diagram shows that the Line in goes to the L1 terminal. You have stated here that the White (Neutral) wire goes to the L1 terminal.

Inyopools  Posted: 10/20/2016 12:22 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

wiring pump - You may have sent 115V through a 220V configured motor. Generally, this is recoverable. Motor shut off after 15 seconds or so. There is nothing to reset. Try wiring it correctly and see if that works. If not, I'd take the motor into a motor shop to see if it can be repaired.

Anonymous  Posted: 10/19/2016 13:38 PM 

I was replacing my pool motor which was wired for 230 and I had to black wires an a green coming from the conduit. On accident the green wire was placed on a L1 heat location. Would that cause any damage or require me to reset the motor somehow? Thank you. John

Inyopools  Posted: 09/16/2016 12:31 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Mark - For 220V, it does not matter which terminal the red and black wires go on. Check to make sure your motor is configured for 220V and not 110V. It's not clear if you just bought the pump housing or you bought a whole new pump housing and motor. It's possible you have received a bad pump or motor. If you bought the unit from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038 or call Hayward direct at 866-772-2100 to discuss a replacement.

Mark  Posted: 09/15/2016 16:07 PM 

Replaced Haywood 1hp super pump with exact model.
Old pump had split in pump housing.
Old motor ran fine. When the new pump is turned on it runs about 3 seconds and trips the gfi breaker.
All grounds are good. No obstruction in any lines. Separated motor from pump housing and there is no obstructions on motor. Shaft spins freely. Should have just bought a new pump chamber and been done.
Motor is wired 220 and jumper is in correct position. Does it matter which terminal the red and black wires go on? Would it cause this problem?

Inyopools  Posted: 09/10/2016 18:09 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Dusty Jeans - By design, a pool motor can only run in one direction. It cannot be reversed by changing the wiring.

Dusty Jeans  Posted: 09/08/2016 11:08 AM 

Do we need to be concerned about the pool filter motor running in the right direction with the 220v motor?

Inyopools  Posted: 08/09/2016 13:37 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

TedSafety - The consensus is that 2pole GFCI breakers do not require a neutral connection on the load side for 220V applications, only on the line side to operate the equipment. Most GFCIs can measure the difference in currents between the two hot lines. But having said that, since not all GFCI installations are the same, it would be wise to read the wiring instructions that come with the GFCI.

TedSafety  Posted: 08/08/2016 21:56 PM 

If the white (neutral) is not used on the pump - how does the GFI work? A GFI measures what is going out on hot against what is coming back on neutral to sense a loss to ground. I have a GFI 220 breaker but I don't see how it can work without the neutral.

inyopools  Posted: 07/31/2016 12:51 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

scosta5 - The white wire is not used for a 220V setup. Just cap it off with a wing twist wire connector.

scosta5  Posted: 07/28/2016 16:57 PM 

I have a question maybe 2, i just bought a 3 hp pump to run the water falls and was told to install a 220 for the pump. i have installed a 30 amp breaker and used red and black on the breaker, white nutural and copper to ground. My question is my pump says to use only red and black and ground, where does the white go to? Also if i decided to put in a 20amp or 30 amp switch before the pump what wires do i use? do i still need the whit at the switch. Pleaae someone help

Inyopools  Posted: 07/16/2016 12:55 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

CLIFF - Don't know anything about this motor's internal wiring to convert to 115V but it sounds like you have that covered. As to the supply line for 115V, white goes to L1 and black goes to L2.

CLIFF  Posted: 07/14/2016 14:08 PM 


Inyopools  Posted: 07/11/2016 11:26 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Cal - Our motor manufacturer technical reps advise us that this should be okay.

Cal  Posted: 07/08/2016 12:12 PM 

Hi there, anybody who is an expert. My electrical system is a UK style system. It meters to 230v on one wire and 0v on the second wire. I just want to make sure that a standard pump is ok with that instead of the 115v to 115v offset. I'm thinking the pump motor wouldn't care, it just wants the correct 230v difference, but there may be something that I'm not aware of. Thanks, in advance, for any brilliance that is sure to come

Inyopools  Posted: 06/24/2016 18:55 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Chad - The pump in your pool system must be both grounded and bonded. Grounding is accomplished with the green or bare wire that comes in with your power wires and is connected at the back of the motor under the electrical cover. This wire grounds your pump back to the circuit in the breaker box. The pump must also be bonded to the rebar grid that surrounds your pool and to which all your electrical pool units are connected - lights, heater etc. This is the wire that connects to the outside of the motor on a lug. See our guide on "How To Build an In-Ground Pool" steps 7, 8, and 17.

Chad  Posted: 06/24/2016 4:43 AM 

I went to my pump yesterday and found the pool cage (enclosure) ground wire sticking up in the air very close the ground connection of the pool pump. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the screw to the ground at the back of the pool pump was loose and the blue, pump ground wire was barely in the pump ground connection hole but not tightened (as mentioned above).

I did A LOT of searches on how enclosures are grounded, I but can't find anything that answers my question. Should the pool enclosure wire also be affixed to the back of the pool pump along with the blue pool pump ground wire? If any layman were to look at the half-screwed, pump ground terminal, the blue, pump ground wire barely in the hole, and the loose, green, enclosure ground wire (cut/spliced perfectly to reach the terminal) sticking stiffly up in the about 8 inches away, they would correctly guess that it was and should be affixed to the pump ground terminal.

Stupid question with an obvious answer but better safe than sorry. Thanks so much in advance for reading and responding!

Inyopools  Posted: 06/01/2016 12:18 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Bubbles - I would think that you could take the hot wire from each of the breakers to produce 220V but I don't know the codes. How would you turn them off together? I would have a qualified electrician answer this question.

Inyopools  Posted: 06/01/2016 12:10 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

timer wiring - I would have an electrician look at your wiring. Timers are sold for 220V or 110V. Unless there is a wiring trick that I don't know about, 220v has to come out of a 220 timer.

Inyopools  Posted: 05/31/2016 14:38 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

MarkL - I think you are good. To clarify: the two wires coming off the breaker each should show 110V when each is measured against ground. When you measure across the two wires, they will show 220V. At the motor, a probe at L1 and one at L2 will show 220V.

Bubbles  Posted: 05/31/2016 10:10 AM 

If you have the switch to the outside, and pool timer that is a 220 , but the circuit breakers are separate for each, and the old pump was set at 220 can those 2 110 circuit b reakers b e going through timer to make the total of 22o

Anonymous  Posted: 05/31/2016 9:39 AM 

Here is my odd trouble I have a 220 timer the hayward motor befor re this new one was wire 220, the timer is wired for 220 and the switch to turn things on and off outside that is separate ftom tmer timer stopped working years ago. Now put new 220 timer in, put new motor in didnt change switch, power showing to the 220 time with gage rely shows xv 110, look in circuit box and it is a 1 pole breaker says but under it might be breaker for switch. Since timer was always wired for 220 and other motor was wired for 220 what do I do now I am told that my friend used circuit b reaker to timer to turn pump on and off . Any thoughts. Can a 220 timer thatt is correctly wired be used for a 110 m No tor

Inyopools  Posted: 05/30/2016 9:50 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Cbar – Yes, you can attach your two black wires to the two white wires extruding from the end cap. I would put a conduit around the white wires and connect them in an electrical box. I assume the black wires are supplying 220V.

MarkL  Posted: 05/30/2016 2:24 AM 

My supply is 220v (Thailand). My pool pump is a Hayward Tristar 220v. I have wired the pump via a two pole 16A breaker and two pole switch to the pump. One 220v wire goes to L1 and the second to L2. The pump is grounded.

Is this correct?

Any help appreciated.

cbar  Posted: 05/25/2016 13:18 PM 

About to install new 1 1/2 hp Hayward pump replacing a 1hp flotec. New pump is set for 230. Two white wires were already attached to motor and extruded from end cap. My conduit has two black wires and a green wire. Can I attach my to black wires to the white wires? I'll ground the green..

caly  Posted: 05/24/2016 12:03 PM 

Found your company on line (thank god) .Very helpful and great prices for good stuff .Will use again ,your videos are very helpful .
5 stars all the way.

Inyopools  Posted: 05/23/2016 15:19 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

JSL - When you measured the voltage coming into the pump, did you measure it across the two leads and not one lead to ground and the other lead to ground.If you have 230V coming in, it will show 230V across both leads and 115V from each lead to ground. From you description, it sounds like you have 230V coming in otherwise it would not run at all. Low pressure could be due to a number of problems. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System".

JSL  Posted: 05/22/2016 19:20 PM 

Had to replace my pool pump. Pump was preset to 230V. Measured voltage at wires coming to the pump at 120V. Changed pump selector to 115V setting, it runs for about 3 seconds and then trips the breaker. If I switch the pump back to 230V setting the pump will run but is not creating much pressure and/or suction. What am I missing?

Inyopools  Posted: 04/30/2016 16:50 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

chipwad - From your description, it sounds like you wired the pump correctly and that the problem is in the pre-wiring of the black plug. According to the manf motor engineers, the motor should not be used. The wires should be switched, black on left and white stripe on rignt, or the motor should be replaced. If you bought the pump from us, give our service reps a call to see what we can do. Try to talk to Rob or Alex.

chipwad  Posted: 04/28/2016 13:21 PM 

Just installed my new Jacuzzi Magnum 1hp pump. I'm replacing the old one that lasted 17 years till it smoked last week. My system is wired for 230v, I have 2 black wires (hot) and 1 green. Everything I read, and also observed, that the pump came pre-wired for 230, so I did not touch the jumper. The white arrow on the jumper is pointing to 230v. When I closed the circuit breaker to test it, and prime the pump, it made a loud hum sound and then tripped off internally. I did see a little smoke.
I measure 230v with the black wires both connected and disconnected, so input power does not appear to be the problem. I went back to your instructions for wiring a pool pump. The picture in step six is from a Haywood pump, but the layout looks identical to mine. The power wires connecting to the L1(terminal no.1) and L2(terminal no.3) and the jumper aligned with the arrow points to 230v. Again from the picture, with the jumper set for 230v, It shows the jumpers black wire connected to terminal no.5 and the jumpers white wire not connected.
I have now discovered, this is not how my pump came pre-wired. On mine, with the black plug’s arrow pointing at 230v, the plug’s white wire is connected to terminal no.5 and the black wire is not connected.
Is this my problem and where do we go from here?
I have pictures if you would like visual confirmation.

Inyopools  Posted: 04/22/2016 10:19 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

DYI guy - I've been told by electricians that pool equipment has to be both grounded (ground wire back to the power source) and bounded (heavy wire connected a grounded wire grid to all pool equipment). Both are required to reduce electrical surges to equipment and people.

DYI guy  Posted: 04/20/2016 12:50 PM 

I have a question, when wiring something 220V we used to use a 10-3 W/grd(white, black, red,green).
in wiring a pump motor the pool company put in a 10-2 w/grd (White, black, green) Isn't running a wire to the chassis of the pump almost equivalent to an equipment ground? and not really using the bare wire as a neutral?

Inyopools  Posted: 04/18/2016 15:15 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Kevin - Either black wire can go to L1 or L2. The green wire, of course, has to go to the green grounding screw.

Inyopools  Posted: 04/18/2016 15:10 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

PLEASE ASSIST - I'm not sure what they did here. If they replaced the whole light fixture, it comes already attached (and sealed) with enough wire to reach the junction box at the house. People don't generally rewire the light at the pool because of the risk of not adequately sealing the fixture when the wire comes in. In any case, it doesn't make sense to connect the earth (green) wire to the neutral (white) wire. Sounds like the light is left ungrounded.

Kevin  Posted: 04/17/2016 9:39 AM 

Question: just bought a Pentair Whisperflo single speed pump/motor to replace similar one. my wiring to the old/new pump is two black wires and a greem. Does it matter which one is L1 and L2? One is black with white lettering, the other is black with no lettering. Thanks

PLEASE ASSIST  Posted: 04/17/2016 8:49 AM 

I need assistance please. While not at home, my wife and son replaced the light in the swimming pool. They connected the earth and neutral wires together at the immersed pool light. Apparently they said there was no place to connect the earth wire. Is that acceptable?. Please assist.

Inyopools  Posted: 03/18/2016 11:32 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Newbie - I think you mean in parallel rather than in series and that would be all right. If you have a timer, it would be the same as wiring both sets of input wires from the pump to the output terminals of the timer. Make sure the circuit breaker is large enough to handle the amps for both pumps.

Newbie  Posted: 03/17/2016 17:57 PM 

Since the cleaner pump needs the filter pump to work correctly, I was going to series the filter and cleaner pumps together but I wanted to double check if that should be the correct way to do it.

Anyone has any suggestion or see a problem with wiring the cleaner and filter pumps in series directly to main house breaker (240VAC)?

inyopools  Posted: 02/06/2016 13:18 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

pdf – Sounds like a timer issue. Look at steps 8, 9, and 16 on our guide for "How To Install an In-Line Salt Chlorine Generator". It's specifically for installing a SCG but the voltage measurement and power hookup are the same for a pump motor. The output lines on the timer are actually going to both the SCG and the pump. Make sure you have a timer for 220 volts. It's different from a 110V timer.