How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

WRITTEN BY: 

  3.3 out of 5 stars on 186 ratings
(Click on a star to add your rating)

This guide will explain how to replace your inground pool pump motor. We will go step by step through disassembling your pool pump, discarding the old motor, repairing the new motor, its installation, and how to wire it.

If you have any questions about finding the correct replacement motor for your in-ground pool pump, read our guide on how to do so: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Note: Please read the complete guide before starting your installation.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Video

Step by Step

Top

Step 1

Select the Correct Replacement Motor - Find the Model (MOD), Catalog (CAT), or Part (P/N) on your old motor’s information tag and enter it into Inyo’s product search. 

If you cannot find the necessary information or want more information on identifying the correct replacement pool pump motor, read our guide: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 2

Select Replacement Shaft Seal or GOKIT - When replacing a pool pump motor, always replace the shaft seal; this seal is the last line of defense between the surging water in your pump housing and your brand new motor. 

To find the correct replacement shaft seal, you’ll need to identify the make and model of your pump housing. The pump’s model number or model should be listed on one of the pump housing stickers.

GOKITs (Gasket/O-Ring Kits) includes the shaft seal and major gaskets and seals for your specific pump housing. If your pump is older, it may be good to replace all seals while the pump is disassembled to ensure a watertight installation.

If you need help identifying your pump housing: Read our guide: How To Identify Your Pump Manufacturer

Related Articles - How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal 

Click Here to Find Your Pump's GOKIT

Step 3

Shut off Power to the Pump - Shut down the pump’s power source by flipping its breaker.

Step 4

Disconnect Bonding Wire - Unscrew the bonding wire lug to remove it from the motor.

Step 5

Remove Motor From Housing - Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the 6 to 8 (pump model specific) bolts from the pump seal plate, then pull the motor assembly away from the housing.

Step 6

Remove Motor Endcap - Use a screwdriver to loosen the motor endcap’s two screws. Place the endcap to the side after it’s removed.

Step 7

Short the Capacitor - The capacitor may store residual current, making the motor turn while we’re working. To prevent this misfire, using the tip of an insulated-handle screwdriver to both of the capacitor terminals leads to the discharge of the capacitor—also, Plac is a protective material or material between your face to prevent injury from sparks.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 8

Note Old Motor Wiring and Voltage Setting - Before disconnecting any terminal wires, note or take a picture of the motor’s terminal board. This will help ensure we set the correct voltage and wiring for the new motor installation.

Step 9

Disconnect Terminal Board Wires - Disconnect all hot, neutral, and ground wires from the terminal board.

These will be the wires coming into the motor from the conduit hole.

Step 10

Pull Wires - Pull the disconnected wires out of the motor through the conduit adapter.

Step 11

Remove Conduit Elbow - Unscrew the conduit adapter elbow from the old motor; place the adapter to the side for reuse on the new motor.

Step 12

Remove Diffuser - Remove the diffuser from the end of the motor assembly. Some pump models like the Hayward Super II use fins to stabilize the diffuser in the seal plate; this design allows you to pull the diffuser without tools. Other models like the Jandy Stealth uses screws to secure the diffuser to the seal plate; these will need to be removed first.

Step 13

Remove Impeller Wear Ring - Pull off the impeller’s wear ring.

Note: This step does not apply to all pump designs; not all pumps are designed with a wear ring.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 14

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Use a 9/16" wrench or a flathead screwdriver to stabilize the shaft.

Step 15

Remove Impeller Screw (If Necessary) - If your impeller uses an impeller screw, use a screwdriver to remove it. Not all impeller designs use an impeller lock screw like the impeller ring. Check your pump model’s parts listing before, or check for a screw during installation.

Note: The impeller lock screw is left-hand threaded (reverse thread). That is why you turn it clockwise to remove it.

Related Articles - Do I Need an Impeller Lock Screw?

Step 16

Unscrew Impeller from the Motor Shaft - While the motor shaft is stabilized, unscrew the impeller counter-clockwise.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 17

Remove the Seal plate (Motor Mounts to a Separate Mounting Plate) - Depending on the pump design, the seal plate may pull off easily after the impeller is removed because there’s a separate motor mount plate that backs the seal plate.

Step 18

Remove Seal Plate (Motor Mounts Directly to Seal Plate) - For models that use the seal plate as a mounting bracket, you will need to remove the four mounting bolts from the backside of the seal plate.

Step 19

Remove the New Motor’s Endcap - Re-screw the endcap screw on the new motor, and set the endcap screws aside for later re-installation.

Step 20

Install Motor Mounting Bracket or Seal Plate (Depending on Pump Design) - Use the four motor mount screws to reattach the seal plate or motor mount to the face of the motor.

The top of the motor mounting plate for this pump is labeled "TOP"—alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 21

Place the Plate Over the Mount Mount (Depending on Pump Design) - If your seal plate is separate from your motor mounting bracket, set it in place now.

Step 22

Remove Old Shaft Seal - Remove the old shaft seal from the old seal plate and impeller steam. Ensure to remove all bits of the old shaft seal, ensuring a snug fit of the new seal.

Note: There are two types of shaft seals used in modern pool pump design; one has the white ceramic side sit in the seal plate, and the spring-loaded side sits on the stem of the impeller. They are shown In Steps 23 & 25. The other standard design is vice versa; the white ceramic sits in an impeller cup around the impeller stem, while the spring-side sits in the seal plate. They are shown In Steps 24 & 26.

Refer to your owner’s manual or the corresponding pars schematic on our Inyo's Pool Pump Parts Finder

Step 23

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic in Seal Plate - Use a clean cloth to press the white ceramic side into the seal plate. First, make sure the Shaft seal is completely seated in the seal plate. Next, use a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt or finger grease that may have marked the smooth ring’s face.

Step 24

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic on impeller Stem - With a clean cloth, press the ceramic shaft seal into the impeller with the white ceramic side facing up.

Step 25

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side on Impeller - Slide the new shaft seal's spring-loaded side onto the impeller stem.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 26

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side Seal Plate -  Place a 1" PVC coupler over the seal and lightly hammer the seal into the plate. Check the front and back of the plate to ensure the seal is flush with the plate.

Tip: Apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the metal cup base of the spring-side piece. This will ensure the shaft seal stays secure in the seal plate during installation.

Step 27

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Stabilize the motor shaft with a 9/16” wrench.

Step 28

Install impeller - Hand-tighten impeller onto the end of the motor shaft.

Step 29

Re-Install Impeller Lock Screw (If Necessary) - Screw in the impeller lock screw if your pump requires one.

Step 30

Re-Install Impeller Ring (If Necessary) - Install the old impeller lock screw into the new impeller. Remember, this screw is a reverse thread “Lefty-Tighty.”

Step 31

Re-Install Diffuser - Place the diffuser over the impeller, and align the tabs (or screw holes) of the diffuser into the holes of the seal plate. Install diffuser screws (model dependent.)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 32

Install Diffuser O-Ring - Apply Teflon lube to the new diffuser o-ring, then slide it into place.

Step 33

Install Housing Gasket - Lube the housing gasket with either Teflon or silicone, then install it into the seal plate’s gasket groove.

Step 34

Mount Motor Assembly to Housing - Slid the motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 35

Install Pump Housing Bolts - Re-attach the 6 to 8  bolts to secure the motor assembly to the pump housing. The number of bolts varies depending on the model.

Step 36

Attach Conduit Adapter - Screw on the original conduit adapter to the new motor.

Step 37

Connect Wires to Terminal Board - Check your new motor’s wiring diagram to confirm wire orientations.

In this example, we had a single-speed motor running on 230v. We connected the Black hot line to L1, the Red hot line to L2, and the green ground line to the green screw.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 38

Attach Motor’s Endcap - install the motor’s endcap using two screws.

Step 39

Prime the pump - Use a hose to fill the strainer housing with water, then close the pump lid.

Related Articles - How To Prime a Pool Pump, How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime

Step 40

Turn on the Pump - Switch on the pump’s breaker, to restore power.



Comments

Top
(1 to 40 of 213)

 Posted: 6/22/2022 

How tight for pump housing bolts? Is there a torque spec?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/27/2022 

There's no specific torque spec but get it snug-to-tight. The main concern is overtightening it, which will bust the housing bolt holes. However, if the bolts aren't tight enough, you can tighten up a bit until the leak stop.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/27/2022 

Got it. Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/29/2022  Latest

You're welcome.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/6/2021 

With regard to my prior post; I determined that because it’s a booster pump the design is different so I had to remove the 10 bolts on the pump housing to get to the impeller and remove it.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/10/2021 

Thank you for the clarification and update.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/6/2021 

I am replacing a Hayward 6060 booster pump motor. I have removed the four bolts that attach the motor to the pump housing. However, the motor will not slide out. It will wiggle 1/8 inch or so left and right. It feels like there is another bolt somewhere holding it in. Any ideas? Thanks.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/24/2021 

Everything thing is connected properly and it pumps but is not building pressure!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/27/2021 

What is the system's normal pressure, and what is the current pressure? Is the system purged of air?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/20/2021 

Hi: I got this motor (UST1102) to replace motor (C48K2N143B1) that got burnt. Our pool service guy mentioned that the old motor got burnt due to mismatch in the gauges of the wire He says that the gauge of the wire coming out of my house is too thin and the new motor may also get burnt for the same reason. So, he advised to get the wiring checked with a licensed electrician. Should I make 2 service calls (for the electrician and the installer)? Is there anything I can check? Thanks JSR
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/21/2021 

It would help to know the gauge of the wire you are using and the cables' length between the motor and power source. Also, are you running this motor on 115 or 230 volts?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/21/2021 

Hello: I am told that the gauge is 16. Yes. I was running it on 220 VOLTS (the motor that got burnt). And the new one also, I plan to run it on 22O VOLTS. I have a junction box next to the pool pump. And this box has ON / OFF switch. So, the length might be perhaps < 3 feet. And the circuit breaker is inside the house. Not sure how the wiring from the circuit breaker to the outside junction box is done. I guess, it might be between 20 to 25 feet. Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/4/2021 

The gauge is too small, you need to go up to 14. 
 Reply

 Posted: 4/15/2021 

My motor runs counterclockwise. How do I change it to run clockwise?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/16/2021 

If this is a standard single-speed 1081 single-phase pool pump motor, you can't. Also, I am not sure why you would want to do that, because pump impellers are designed to spin CCW.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/13/2021 

My Maxflo II single speed needed replacement but because of California law, I had to get a two speed motor. is there anything specific I should know about the wiring of the new pump?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/15/2021 

The specifics you would need to know for wiring are usually shown on the motor's wiring diagram sticker. Also, depending on the style of dual speed motor, you will need to have a timer that can control the on/off and the hi/lo of the motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/15/2021 

Unfortunately, I was never apprised of this during my chat. I just bought a new single speed timer prior to the motor giving out. This experience has not left me very happy. I will double check the motor circuit diagram.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/12/2020 

My pump motor starts up just fine, runs at a normal rate for a while then starts spinning at a much higher rate. After a few seconds I smell something burning. I suspect that the impeller has a lot of resistance (due to clogged water lines?) and after a while the impeller is slipping on the motor shaft. I dismounted the motor from the housing. When I momentarily run the dismounted motor the impeller rotates as expected. But how can I tell if the impeller is firm on the shaft or slipping under load? Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/15/2020 

If you can unscrew the impeller from the motor shaft, the nut is not slipping from the impeller. When I have seen impellers fail, if the threads give out, the impeller is going to get loose and rumble around the inside of the pump.When the motor starts to make this noise, does water flow rate change? Do you see large air pockets in the pump's strainer lid?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/25/2020 

Thanks for your advice, Matt. After checking the impeller, I replaced the start capacitor but to no avail. I then replaced the motor and now I hear the sweet sound of gushing water. The original problem that I thought was a slipping impeller, was just due to a motor that was probably vibrating rather than spinning. :) Thanks! -Paul
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2020 

I just put my motor and pump back together that I purchased from you. I noticed that you did not say how tight to make the bolts. I tend to overdo things and the seal is leaking. Brand new seal and I put 'pool and spa' lube on it. Also, you give a pattern of how to tighten the bolts, but nowhere on this page can I find the bolts numbered to follow that pattern. Can you help me?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/21/2020 

The below picture is a good pattern to follow when tightening the bolts. Disregard the number mentioned in the step and follow the sequential pattern shown in the guide. As for how tight they need to be, you can hand tighten them, then a half-turn or two with a wrench should be enough.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/6/2020 

I have a HSQ165 Pump and the motor has the following specifications: HP = 1.65 SF = 1.00 Volts= 115/230 Amps = 18.8/9.4 It's louder and louder every week. My pool holds about 10,000 gallons of water. What do you recommend for a replacement?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/9/2020 

Hello, I typed the HSQ165 from your comment into our search at the top of the page and was provided two results, the HSQ165 or the ECM15SQU. The HSQ165 is the single-speed like for like replacement; the ECM16SQU is the variable speed replacement which costs more money but is more reliable, cost-efficient, and quieter when running at lower speeds.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/13/2020 

I have a Pentair Whisper Flo WF-28 motor that I like to replace, and like to find a quieter model. What do you suggest? 3 Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/13/2020 

The preferred replacement is the A.O. Smith V-Green 2.7 HP Square Flange 48Y Variable Speed Motor - ECM27SQU. To complete the motor installation, you will need the gasket kit for the Pentair WhisperFlo which is the GOKIT32 or GOKIT32SALT
 Reply

 Posted: 1/14/2020 

Will V-Green 1.65 HP work in my case? I need a really quiet motor.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2020 

As long as the total horsepower of the 1.6 matches your current total horsepower and you have 230 volts then yes it will work for your application. 
 Reply

 Posted: 1/15/2020 

Thanks for the reply. Just want to make sure before I place my order: the V-Green 1.65 HP works fine with my existing Pentair WF-28 which is 2.0 HP (60 hz 1PH kW). Any pros and cons that you can think of if compare with V-Green 2.7 HP?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2020 

The original Whisperflo WF28 has near a total horsepower of 2.2. With that said, the V Green 2.7 variable speed motor is the better fit. Your system may not need the entire 2.7 hp worth of strength however being able to dial the RPM's down still makes it a real good fit. 
 Reply

 Posted: 1/15/2020 

How about the noise level? The main reason for me to upgrade to a variable one is the noise. Will the V-Green 1.65 H run more quietly than the V-Green 2.7 HP overall (say at the same rpm)?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2020 

Unfortunately, none of the manufacturer specification data provides decibel levels of their motors running at certain rpm's. That may be something to request directly from Century A.O. Smith. Their number is 800-262-6484. 
 Reply

 Posted: 1/26/2020 

If I buy the V-Green 2.65 HP variable speed motor to replace the WhisperFlo 1.5 HP motor, do I need to change the impeller (#073129) to a bigger size (#073130 for 2HP or #073131 for 3HP)?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/10/2020 

The pump can likely be run effectively with the original impeller. But if you are aiming for higher gallons per minute at high speeds, then you will need to upgrade the impeller. I suggest the 2.5 HP impeller (073130); the 3 HP impeller would be a little to big for the 2.7 HP V-Green
 Reply

 Posted: 10/22/2019 

I replaced my 3/4 hp Century motor - SP3207Z1BE - with a B2852. I was not aware of the SF being 1.85 on the old motor and 1.25 on the new one. Needless to say, the pump was underpowered. Is there an alternative to replacing it with exactly the same motor? Can I use a pump with a higher HP and lower SF? Or one with a higher total HP? Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/5/2019 

Yes, you could go with a 1-Horsepower uprated motor. Or you could go with a similar 3/4 HP fullrated 3/4 HP Motor EE - Full Rate (B661, B2661). The total HP doesn't match exactly but the number is close enough for it to be negligible. 
 Reply

 Posted: 9/18/2019 

My pool pump works fine but my motor is making an awful noise and is hot to the touch. Pump model # is SP2605X7. Current pump is a UST1072, Model # C48J2N131C1C, 3/4 HP, SF 1.0, 3450 RPM, FR 56J, Volts 115/230 and AMPS 10.6/5.3. Is this the correct motor for my pump? and with it being hot and making that noise should it be replaced?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/26/2019 

Hello Shawn - Yes, the correct replacement would be motor model UST1072. Running hot is normal for the motors but the noise is a sign that the bearings are going bad. The motor will eventually stop working. It's hard to say how long it will run loud before quitting.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/6/2019 

My motor sounds fine but is leaking. Model SP2607X10. Will I need to replace it or just replace a gasket?
 Reply