Pool pumps are wired to run on either 230V or 115V. Most are run on 230V and are preset at the manufacturers at 230V. If you are going to wire your own pool pump, you must first know what voltage is coming to your pump from the house circuit breaker. Also you must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electrician wire your pump for you or at least check your work. Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pump motor and void your warranty.
Measure the voltage on the wires going to your pool pump. See "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage". This voltage will be either 230-240V or 115-120V. Pool Pump manufacturers commonly list these as 230V or 115V. Generally you will have three wires coming to your pump. For 230V you will generally have a red, a black and a green wire. The red and black wires are both hot. There is no neutral. The green wire is always ground. For 115V the three wires are generally black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).
CAUTION: Before you start wiring your pool pump, turn off all power to the pump at the breaker box.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the cover over the back end of the motor. Remove the cover to expose the electrical connectors.
Screw a metal elbow onto your pool pump at the end of the motor.
Run conduit from the metal box to the pump. String your three wires thru the conduit and metal elbow into the end of the motor. Screw the conduit collar onto the end of the elbow. Ensure that your wire size is adequate for the HP rating and distance from the power source. Check your pool pump owners manual for the correct size. Wire sizes generally run 14 AWG for motors up to 1 HP and from 14 AWG to 10AWG for larger motors depending on HP and Voltage.
If you are wiring for 230V, the three wires coming to the pool pump from the circuit box are red, black and green. In this example for Hayward pool pumps, red will go to the L1 terminal and black will go to the L2 terminal. The green wire will be under the green screw to the far right. In addition there is a black plug with two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V.
For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND). The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.
If you are wiring for 115V, the three wires to the pool pump will be black, white and green. Attach the white wire to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). Attach the black wire to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). Attach the green wire under the Ground screw (GND). The black plug is shifted in position so the the black wire is attached to terminal 4 Line 2 (L2) and the white wire is attached to terminal 5. Note: in this position the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at the 115V label.
Replace the pool pump motor cover and secure it with the two screws.
Lastly your pool pump motor must be bonded in accordance with local electrical code requirements. Use a solid copper conductor, size 8 AWG or larger. Run this wire from from a reinforcing rod to the pressure wire connector provided on the motor housing. Note: In this example the wire coming from the bottom of the picture is going to the pump. The upper wire is going to the heater to bond the heater.
Inyopools Posted: 06/12/2017 11:30 AM Inyo Product Specialist
James - Your problem seems to be very similar to Chris100 below. Our wiring instructions may not be exactly the same for all motors. Your motor wiring instruction should be printed on the motor label. I'd follow them and read whatever is in your user's manual for any changes. Also, you too may have been sent a bad motor but that seem unlikely. If you bought the pump from us, give us a call. I have a call into our motor rep to see if he knows what might be the problem.
Inyopools Posted: 06/12/2017 11:19 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Chris001 - Our wiring instructions may not be exactly the same for all motors. Your motor wiring instruction should be printed on the motor label. I'd follow them and read whatever is in your user's manual for any changes. Also, you may have been sent a bad motor. If you bought the pump from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038.
James Posted: 06/10/2017 22:42 PM
I just received the magnum 1.5 pool pump this week and installed it according to the instructions on this website. When I turn the breaker back on and flip the switch to the pump, it only hums. The impeller does not appear to be turning. This is the same thing my old pump was doing, which is why I replaced it. The voltage from the house is 115, and I changed the inside voltage plug on the motor to 115 from 230 (as per the instructions on this page). I'm not sure what else to do at this point. When my old pump was working, the impeller would at least turn, even if there was no water in the pump. I wired the new pump the same way the old pump was wired, and I know that pump worked with that wiring scheme. The new pump is the same model as the old pump. Any suggestions?
Chris001 Posted: 06/10/2017 8:52 AM
Just bought a new Carvin Magnum pump. The pump is part number 7-184949-22. I have 110vac supply.
Wired white to L1 and black to L2 and ground to the green screw.
When I move the pre-wired block (internal) from the position for 230vac to 115vac and turn on the pump it shorts the and throws my breaker. When I move the block to the 230vac position it runs for about 10 minutes and then shuts off.
After it sits for a bit it will start again.
Inyopools Posted: 06/06/2017 14:03 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Phil - If you are running on 220V, you don't need a neutral wire. One hot wire goes to L1 and the other hot wire goes to L@. Green wire to ground.If you are running on 115V, the hot wire goes to L1 and the other neutral wire goes to L@. Make sure your motor is configured for the right supply voltage. See the motor label for configuration instructions.
Phil Posted: 06/05/2017 16:06 PM
I just bought a new motor and it does not have a neutral connection for the white wire. After connecting the appropriate wires and plugging in, it won't start. Power to each connection but without the white wire, there is no power to the motor.???
Inyopools Posted: 05/30/2017 8:30 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Anonymous (230V wiring) - Yes, The two hot lines go to L1 and L2. green to ground and white ignored. I would cap off the white line.
Inyopools Posted: 05/30/2017 8:24 AM Inyo Product Specialist
jmal - Yes, you can bypass the ProLogic and wire the pump directly to the circuit breaker. That's what most pool owners do with a timer in between.
Anonymous Posted: 05/28/2017 18:21 PM
If i read thia correctly, on a 230v connection the red and black are L1 and L2 the green to ground and the white does not get connected. Is that right?
jmal Posted: 05/28/2017 14:32 PM
Went outside to discover that my Prologic control panel is dead....ran some preliminary tests that I found on internet...looks like board needs to be replaced....anyway just wondering if it would be safe to just wire the pump up to the circuit breaker directly....seems like it should be ok but just want to make sure....if anything I could still use pool and keep water circulating.....
Inyopools Posted: 05/26/2017 16:56 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Chlorine dream - I would try tapping the hole first. If that doesn't work, here's a link to A.O Smith motor parts including some terminal options.
Chlorine dream Posted: 05/24/2017 20:37 PM
Question for you guys..
Went to turn on the pump for the year and nothing . Realized the black wire had come off the screw on the terminal. When I went to screw it back down I realized the screw hole was stripped out. Can I tap the the hole to accommodate a larger screw? Can I replace the copper terminal?
Inyopools Posted: 05/20/2017 12:45 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Nathan - Yes, for `15V, you need black hot, white neutral and green ground. Make sure your motor is configured for 115 V before you wire it for 115V. See motor label for instructions.
Nathan Posted: 05/19/2017 21:28 PM
I'm replacing my pool pump the original pump is set up for 220v so had red wire hot blk wire hot and grn ground. New moter is 115v with white, blk and green do I need to run a neutral wire not sure what to do
Inyopools Posted: 05/19/2017 9:14 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Mike - Match the blue wire on the breaker with the black wire on the pump, red to red and white to white.
Mike Posted: 05/17/2017 18:17 PM
Hi, I just bought an utilitech pump and I am wondering how to wire it correctly! The breaker box has the standard blue,green, and red wire and the pump has the red, black and white. Which wire goes with what color?
Inyopools Posted: 04/26/2017 10:39 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Stanz - After disconnecting the pump, measure the power across the two supply lines. Make sure it matches the power configured for your motor (230V or 115V). If that checks out, you may have a bad motor. Contact the place where you bought the motor to check on a possible replacement before the warranty runs out.
Stanz Posted: 04/25/2017 19:00 PM
I just opened my pool for the spring. I have a Hayward 1hp super pump that I purchased midway through last summer. This year, when I tried to start the filter, the pump immediately trips the breaker. Not even a hum-breaker won't even set. I checked everything I can think of: I replaced the capacitor and the impeller is clear and turning smoothly. When I disconnect the pump, the chlorinater and heater work fine, so there is good power coming in. What am I missing??
Inyopools Posted: 12/05/2016 11:26 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Bob - According to the pump motor manufacturers, the wires are interchangeable. The white wire can go to either L1 or L2.
Bob Posted: 12/03/2016 15:01 PM
I am starting to think your instruction for the 115V wiring is incorrect. My Hayward pump wiring diagram shows that the Line in goes to the L1 terminal. You have stated here that the White (Neutral) wire goes to the L1 terminal.
Inyopools Posted: 10/20/2016 12:22 PM Inyo Product Specialist
wiring pump - You may have sent 115V through a 220V configured motor. Generally, this is recoverable. Motor shut off after 15 seconds or so. There is nothing to reset. Try wiring it correctly and see if that works. If not, I'd take the motor into a motor shop to see if it can be repaired.
Anonymous Posted: 10/19/2016 13:38 PM
I was replacing my pool motor which was wired for 230 and I had to black wires an a green coming from the conduit. On accident the green wire was placed on a L1 heat location. Would that cause any damage or require me to reset the motor somehow? Thank you. John
Inyopools Posted: 09/16/2016 12:31 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Mark - For 220V, it does not matter which terminal the red and black wires go on. Check to make sure your motor is configured for 220V and not 110V. It's not clear if you just bought the pump housing or you bought a whole new pump housing and motor. It's possible you have received a bad pump or motor. If you bought the unit from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038 or call Hayward direct at 866-772-2100 to discuss a replacement.
Mark Posted: 09/15/2016 16:07 PM
Replaced Haywood 1hp super pump with exact model.
Old pump had split in pump housing.
Old motor ran fine. When the new pump is turned on it runs about 3 seconds and trips the gfi breaker.
All grounds are good. No obstruction in any lines. Separated motor from pump housing and there is no obstructions on motor. Shaft spins freely. Should have just bought a new pump chamber and been done.
Motor is wired 220 and jumper is in correct position. Does it matter which terminal the red and black wires go on? Would it cause this problem?
Thanks
Inyopools Posted: 09/10/2016 18:09 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Dusty Jeans - By design, a pool motor can only run in one direction. It cannot be reversed by changing the wiring.
Dusty Jeans Posted: 09/08/2016 11:08 AM
Do we need to be concerned about the pool filter motor running in the right direction with the 220v motor?
Inyopools Posted: 08/09/2016 13:37 PM Inyo Product Specialist
TedSafety - The consensus is that 2pole GFCI breakers do not require a neutral connection on the load side for 220V applications, only on the line side to operate the equipment. Most GFCIs can measure the difference in currents between the two hot lines. But having said that, since not all GFCI installations are the same, it would be wise to read the wiring instructions that come with the GFCI.
TedSafety Posted: 08/08/2016 21:56 PM
If the white (neutral) is not used on the pump - how does the GFI work? A GFI measures what is going out on hot against what is coming back on neutral to sense a loss to ground. I have a GFI 220 breaker but I don't see how it can work without the neutral.
inyopools Posted: 07/31/2016 12:51 PM Inyo Product Specialist
scosta5 - The white wire is not used for a 220V setup. Just cap it off with a wing twist wire connector.
scosta5 Posted: 07/28/2016 16:57 PM
I have a question maybe 2, i just bought a 3 hp pump to run the water falls and was told to install a 220 for the pump. i have installed a 30 amp breaker and used red and black on the breaker, white nutural and copper to ground. My question is my pump says to use only red and black and ground, where does the white go to? Also if i decided to put in a 20amp or 30 amp switch before the pump what wires do i use? do i still need the whit at the switch. Pleaae someone help
Thanks
Inyopools Posted: 07/16/2016 12:55 PM Inyo Product Specialist
CLIFF - Don't know anything about this motor's internal wiring to convert to 115V but it sounds like you have that covered. As to the supply line for 115V, white goes to L1 and black goes to L2.
CLIFF Posted: 07/14/2016 14:08 PM
MY JACUSSI CAME SET FOR 230V. NOW TO CHANGE TO 115V IT SAYS ON THE MOTOR TO SWOP THE WHITE WIRE ON B OR L1 WITH THE BROWN WIRE B OR L2. EASY ENOUGH TO DO. IT'S 15 YRS. OLD WITH NO SELECTOR SWITCH. THEY SAY NOYHING OF WHERE THE 115 ELECTRIC COMING IN, WHERE IT SHOULD BE ATTACHED.UNDER L1 THERE ARE A RED AND ORANGE WIRE ON THE SAME CONNECTOR WITH A YELLOW WITH BLACK LINES ON IT UNDER L1,BROWN. THE ONLY THING UNDER L2 WHITE WIRE IS A YELLOW CONNECTOR. I DID HAVE SMOKE FOR 1 MINUTE ON A TRIAL RUN. NOT SURE ABOUT THE RUSTY CAPACITOR. I THINK I WILL JUST REPLACE IT. THERE IS SOME HUM WHEN I TRY WHAT I THINK IT SHOULD BE. I'M READY TO THROW IT AWAY, BUT I DON'T HAVE A LOT OF MONEY. ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
Inyopools Posted: 07/11/2016 11:26 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Cal - Our motor manufacturer technical reps advise us that this should be okay.
Cal Posted: 07/08/2016 12:12 PM
Hi there, anybody who is an expert. My electrical system is a UK style system. It meters to 230v on one wire and 0v on the second wire. I just want to make sure that a standard pump is ok with that instead of the 115v to 115v offset. I'm thinking the pump motor wouldn't care, it just wants the correct 230v difference, but there may be something that I'm not aware of. Thanks, in advance, for any brilliance that is sure to come
Inyopools Posted: 06/24/2016 18:55 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Chad - The pump in your pool system must be both grounded and bonded. Grounding is accomplished with the green or bare wire that comes in with your power wires and is connected at the back of the motor under the electrical cover. This wire grounds your pump back to the circuit in the breaker box. The pump must also be bonded to the rebar grid that surrounds your pool and to which all your electrical pool units are connected - lights, heater etc. This is the wire that connects to the outside of the motor on a lug. See our guide on "How To Build an In-Ground Pool" steps 7, 8, and 17.
Chad Posted: 06/24/2016 4:43 AM
I went to my pump yesterday and found the pool cage (enclosure) ground wire sticking up in the air very close the ground connection of the pool pump. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the screw to the ground at the back of the pool pump was loose and the blue, pump ground wire was barely in the pump ground connection hole but not tightened (as mentioned above).
I did A LOT of searches on how enclosures are grounded, I but can't find anything that answers my question. Should the pool enclosure wire also be affixed to the back of the pool pump along with the blue pool pump ground wire? If any layman were to look at the half-screwed, pump ground terminal, the blue, pump ground wire barely in the hole, and the loose, green, enclosure ground wire (cut/spliced perfectly to reach the terminal) sticking stiffly up in the about 8 inches away, they would correctly guess that it was and should be affixed to the pump ground terminal.
Stupid question with an obvious answer but better safe than sorry. Thanks so much in advance for reading and responding!
Inyopools Posted: 06/01/2016 12:18 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Bubbles - I would think that you could take the hot wire from each of the breakers to produce 220V but I don't know the codes. How would you turn them off together? I would have a qualified electrician answer this question.
Inyopools Posted: 06/01/2016 12:10 PM Inyo Product Specialist
timer wiring - I would have an electrician look at your wiring. Timers are sold for 220V or 110V. Unless there is a wiring trick that I don't know about, 220v has to come out of a 220 timer.
Inyopools Posted: 05/31/2016 14:38 PM Inyo Product Specialist
MarkL - I think you are good. To clarify: the two wires coming off the breaker each should show 110V when each is measured against ground. When you measure across the two wires, they will show 220V. At the motor, a probe at L1 and one at L2 will show 220V.
Bubbles Posted: 05/31/2016 10:10 AM
If you have the switch to the outside, and pool timer that is a 220 , but the circuit breakers are separate for each, and the old pump was set at 220 can those 2 110 circuit b reakers b e going through timer to make the total of 22o