As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
"Power" LED not on. Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
"Generating" LED flashing. The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.
"No Flow" LED illuminated. The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.
"Check Salt" LED illuminated or flashing. Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.
"High Salt" LED illuminated. With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.
"Inspect Cell" LED flashing. Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.
"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated. Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.
"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.
Causes for little or no chlorine residual. The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.
Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual
Paul M. Posted: 08/16/2017 11:28 AM Latest
Hi. Quick question. I have a Hayward Swimpure Plus system and and I had the system down for a couple months to work on the pool. I fired it back up and it worked fine initially but a week later, I have a yellow solid power light and a yellow solid generating light. Can't seem to find this configuration in any troubleshooting guide. Still shows salt content and the T-15 cell is about two years old. I've replaced the boards in the control box so I do know how to work on it. Thought I'd ask before I tore into it. Advise greatly appreciated.
Inyopools Posted: 08/15/2017 12:55 PM Latest Inyo Product Specialist
Steve - Unfortunately, we have not seen this problem before. Please call Hayward at 866-772-2100. One of their service reps should be able to solve this for you.
Steve Posted: 08/14/2017 8:21 AM Latest
My Chlorine us dangerously high and the unit is generating continuously no matter where I set the dial. Any suggestions?
Inyopools Posted: 07/27/2017 17:52 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Steveth - Please give Hayward a call on this issue at 866-772-2100. They should have the answer.
Steveh Posted: 07/26/2017 8:10 AM
What is the difference between a Rev "A" and rev "C" board
Inyopools Posted: 07/24/2017 15:02 PM Inyo Product Specialist
cpsnow - Your description is very similar to others. See "Inyopools" response to "Schmidyt" (and PhilS) six comments down from this one.
Inyopools Posted: 07/24/2017 13:08 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Glen - I'd suggest looking at Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual, but it sounds like you already have. At this point, I'd suggest calling Hayward and walking through this with one of their service reps. Their number is 866-722-2100.
Inyopools Posted: 07/24/2017 11:04 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Chuck - There are two sets of arrows on the flow switch, one on the pipe and one on the sensor itself. Make sure the sensor arrows are pointed in the right direction. See Step 6 in our guide on "How to Replace an Aqua Rite Flow Switch". Then make sure the plug on the flow switch cable is all the way in. Then check the water flow. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Start with Step 6, Clogged Impeller.
cpsnow Posted: 07/23/2017 10:37 AM
I have a Goldline AquaRite system that was installed in 2006 and a couple days ago the LEDs stopped coming on. The LCD still comes on showing 3100 and there is a faint electrical smell inside the box.
What is the best way to diagnose this? Is is worth it to replace parts or is it more prudent to replace the whole controller?
Thanks!
Glen Posted: 07/22/2017 17:45 PM
I just installed a new board and T cell 9 in a Hayward Aqua Rite system 6 yrs old. Salt level is 3000. Checked voltage and amps in both polarities. Voltage gives two different readings as soon as panel is switched from auto to off and back to auto. When same procedure is done with amps, the reading goes to zero when the polarity is changed which the Hayward manual says a new board is needed. However after waiting about 30-40 seconds, I hear a click and the reading goes up to a level near the first reading. I did this 5 times and the reverse polarity readings on amps were always 0.05 to 0.10 amps higher on average. Is the correct reading really 0.00 when the polarity is first changed or is the correct reading obtained after waiting for some 30-40 seconds after the polarity is changed? I can't find anywhere that you should wait to watch the reading go from zero to a normal reading after changing polarities. I changed the old board in accordance with the Hayward diagnostic chart that says you have a bad board if you get a zero reading when changing the amp polarity but am getting the same thing with a new board and cell. Help. I can't tell if my system is generating or not. Pool water is balanced but I keep having to manually add chlorine.
Chuck Posted: 07/21/2017 18:15 PM
I just had put in a brand new Aquarite AQR9 system. Cell is set up correctly, wires just fine and plugged in correctly, correct power hooked up, correct length (12+ inches) in front of flow tee, arrows pointing in right direction, plenty of speed on the pump, BUT the "NO FLOW" light shines on! Any insight here? Thank you.
Inyopools Posted: 07/21/2017 12:37 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Schmidty - This sounds like a problem with your main PCB. A number of people have seen this or something similar. The solution is often tied to replacing the flat disk "inrush current limiter" at the top upper right corner of your main PCB. A recent comment from PhilS suggested:
"If you are still getting a salt reading but no indicator lights your "inrush current limiter" may have gone out. mine was a model "as32 2r025" got it from Amazon for around $6. my soldering iron wasn't good enough so i just cut it out leaving enough existing wire to crimp on the replacement. hope this helps you and anyone else with this problem.
P.S if it falls apart in your hand then this is more than likely the issue."
Anonymous Posted: 07/20/2017 13:45 PM
Doug - Step 10 of this guide provides a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. See page seven of this guide for "High Salt LED On". If that doesn't help solve your issue, check the other diagnostic suggestions.
Schmidty Posted: 07/18/2017 18:56 PM
Turn system on, no flow flashes for a short period of 30 seconds. Then generating light turns on for about 10 seconds and then goes off. The digital readings are still on display.. what could be wrong??
Inyopools Posted: 07/18/2017 18:11 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Robert - When you replaced your t-cell, did you reset the displayed cell to match the installed cell? Also, the last step in this guide referenced a diagnostics manual for the Aqua Rite SCG that might help you further.
Doug Posted: 07/18/2017 13:16 PM
We have a 5 month old salt cell and just started having the problem of not generating and the high salt light is steady red. I've taken a water sample to our pool store and the salt level is right on, acid was a bit low which is normal, and almost no chlorine. I've cleaned the cell but cannot solve this,problem. Suggestions?
Robert Posted: 07/17/2017 8:03 AM
I recently replaced my t-cell and now my aqua rite says salt level is Hi. I had chlorine level checked and it is not producing chlorine. Is high salt level the problem or does the aqua rite panel need replacing??
Inyopools Posted: 07/10/2017 14:26 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Matt - I recently added a link to the bottom of this guide for Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Hopefully, some of the diagnostics tests can help you isolate your issue.
Inyopools Posted: 07/09/2017 15:00 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Kevin - I just added a link to the bottom of this guide for Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your issue to either the cell or the main PC board.
Kevin Posted: 07/06/2017 10:19 AM
my problem is this. i place the cell in a bucket of water to diagnose the problem. i flip the switch to "super chlorinate" it works fine. i see bubbles being produced, therefore chlorine. i flip the switch to auto, and initially the are a few bubbles but then it stops. the display reads "COLD" but the water is quite warm. the cell is spotless but i'll clean it again with muriatic acid. Do you think its a board issue? i have had the whole package for 3 years, but my pool does not run for more than 3 hours a day so i cant see it being a bad cell. Also looking at the Board i see no problems either, no bugs and everything looks clean like the first day i installed it. Let me know what you think. thanks Kevin
Matt Posted: 07/03/2017 18:48 PM
My reading for my output dial is changing without moving the dial. I will set it at 33 and it moves 3 to 10 points. When it final settles it will be different the next day when I look at it. Sometimes it is as much as a 30 point difference. When I move the dial to 100 it does not adjust down even close to what is on the dial face. I have replaced the board thinking that was the problem but it did not fix it. I have read all of the troubleshooting threads that I can find and no one discusses how to remedy this. Does anyone know how to fix this or what I need to replace?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Inyopools Posted: 07/03/2017 17:14 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Ro788 - I just added a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual at the end of this guide. See page 2 of this manual for tips on "correcting your check salt and inspect cell LED flashing or ON".
Inyopools Posted: 07/01/2017 11:30 AM Inyo Product Specialist
PhilS - Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm sure it will be of great assistance to other readers.
Inyopools Posted: 07/01/2017 10:59 AM Inyo Product Specialist
KMB - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. Also, see PhilS' recent comments below. They may also help.
Ro788 Posted: 07/01/2017 3:12 AM
Just replaced my cell for the 1st time since getting a Haywood Goldline Aqua Rite salt generator a few years ago. It's the same t-15 cell and I keep getting " check salt " and "inspect cell" lights ( Steady ) and cannot get them to go off by pressing the Diagnostics button for 3 seconds as required. Any suggestions
PhilS Posted: 06/30/2017 16:52 PM
@ken m & inyopool i had a problem similar to Ken m, where my amps where reading 0.0. the solution that helped me was to switch polarity. Page 3 from the guide provided by inyopool indicates to "cycle main switch from AUTO > OFF > AUTO". Hope this helps you and anyone else with this problem.
Best of luck
PhilS
P.S. page 17 with a troubleshooting chart may also help.
PhilS Posted: 06/30/2017 15:12 PM
ChrisP if you are still getting a salt reading but no indicator lights your "inrush current limiter" may have gone out. mine was a model "as32 2r025" got it from amazon for around $6. my soldering iron wasn't good enough so i just cut it out leaving enough existing wire to crimp on the replacement. hope this helps you and anyone else with this problem.
P.S if it falls apart in your hand then this is more than likely the issue.
KMB Posted: 06/29/2017 9:17 AM
We have had quite the year with our pool as our pump went out, handle broke, just replaced our t- cell 15 this past week. Finally everything was going well, it was generating for about 2 days and now this morning come out and find it says "pcb" with all 4 lights at the bottom lit up. We have the older goldline model switchboard. When we replaced the cell the directions stated it did not need any recalibration with this model so we just took out the new and put in the old. It started up and worked perfectly, reading accurately at 3400 for the first 2 days it was in. Is there anything we did wrong that could have caused this? Is there a way to troubleshoot the switchboard and recalibrate/fix it without having to replace it? We have well over 2 grand into this thing already this summer and have yet to use it...any help is greatly appreciated!
Inyopools Posted: 06/27/2017 15:32 PM Inyo Product Specialist
ChrisP - Like I suggested to Steve, your main PCB may be going. Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It has a series of diagnostics that may help you isolate your problem.
Inyopools Posted: 06/27/2017 13:08 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Ken M - It is my understanding that when you replace your t-cell, you have to reset the Turbo Cell Type or the salt level, amperage and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. See page 4 in Haywards Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Also, I see on page 23 that the SW revision is up to at least 1.50. I'd suggest giving Hayward a call at 866-772-2100 to see if they can clarify this for you.
Inyopools Posted: 06/27/2017 9:48 AM Inyo Product Specialist
Steve - It sounds like your main PCB may be failing. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem.
ChrisP Posted: 06/27/2017 7:28 AM
I am having the same issue as Steve. The indicator lights on the unit are off, but it does show a salt reading but it is not generating any chlorine. The salt value seems stuck on the same number. My pool company is showing a lot less salt in the pool. I cleaned the cells. Any suggestions?
Ken M Posted: 06/26/2017 16:51 PM
I just replaced my T-Cell-9 and I am getting a voltage reading of 30 and amperage is 0.0. I am not generating chlorine. As I go through the process of resetting the voltage and amperage, it recalculates and the LED reads Generating and then within seconds it switch to Inspect Cell and Check Salt (salt is at 2900 per a test) and the voltage and amperage go back 30 and 0.0, respectively
I thought that maybe I need to reset the cell size to t-9 but when I scroll through the system, it does not show Cell Size option. My software version is 1.40.
Any thoughts?
Inyopools Posted: 06/26/2017 16:30 PM Inyo Product Specialist
jef - Take a water sample into a local pool store and have it tested. If the salt level is too high, the SCG will not generate chlorine. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem.
Inyopools Posted: 06/26/2017 13:17 PM Inyo Product Specialist
Anonymous (Swin Pure Plus) - You may need a new PCB or cell. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual to help you isolate your problem.
Inyopools Posted: 06/26/2017 12:48 PM Inyo Product Specialist
art - I can't answer your question. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Link Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. If not, give Hayward at call at 866-772-2100. They should be able to assist you further.
Steve Posted: 06/26/2017 7:49 AM
I noticed all the lights were off on my unit. The LCD screen still gives a salt reading but nothing else and will change through the various screens but none of the indicator lights are working. Is this an issue with the unit or the cell? I just replaced the cell a year ago.
jef Posted: 06/25/2017 13:47 PM
bought an AquaRite PCB last year. it is not generating any clorine. Gererating light is off but pwr lite is on. Amps at 0. Display reads 9900 for salt. do I need another pcb?
Anonymous Posted: 06/24/2017 11:35 AM
I have a Hayward swim pure plus wit a t15 cell. the power and generate lights cycle on and off about every 10 seconds. No residual chlorine is showing up when water is tested.
art Posted: 06/24/2017 10:20 AM
my display unit does not let me go to screen to change tcell unit also i have an AL 7 THAT Icannot change what is the problem