How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

"Power" LED not on. Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Step 2

"Generating" LED flashing. The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED illuminated. The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED illuminated or flashing. Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Step 5

"High Salt" LED illuminated. With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED flashing. Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated. Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Step 9

Causes for little or no chlorine residual. The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(1 to 40 of 553)

 Posted: 5/23/2019 

i have an aquarite generator. i'm not producing any chlorine. I changed the cell but the control panel is still doing the same thing - so appears it wasn't the cell. Both the power and generating lights come on solid green for 15 seconds and then turn off for one minute. During that minute the voltage climbs from 3 to 18. a few seconds after the power and generating lights turn solid green - the voltage drops back down to 3. this cycle is just repeating itself over and over again. Assume there's an issue with one of the components in the control panel? thx for your help!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2019 

Hello Jeff - Like Dean in the comment below, I'd check the current limiter on the main board. I'd also go through the troubleshooting flow chart on page 31 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/21/2019 

My Aqua Rite was not reading salt level correctly. Added salt to bring to 3000 and no change in readings. Salt cell was cleaned/serviced with no change. I replaced salt cell and readings went to 3500 but hasn’t changed even with significant rain diluting pool. Now the controller power light and chlorinating light will come on for 10 seconds and go off for 2 minutes and then continue to cycle on and off. Is this an indication to replace circuit board? I have power to board (220) and connections are good. Fuse is good.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/22/2019 

Hello Dean- We'd recommend checking the current limiter on the main circuit board. It's a flat round black disk that sticks out from the board. That piece can crack and cause symptoms like you are experiencing. Click here to view a video that shows the replacement of a current limiter. For more tips, check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide and the Quick Reference Guide.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/17/2019 

what's the typical life span of a T Cell 15?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2019 

3 to 5 years.
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 Posted: 4/24/2019 

I just purchased a home with an Aqua Rite Goldline system that has a T-15 cell. The previous owner said the salt system was functional but he had turned it off and had been using Chlorine. I decide to go sal again. I added salt, checking the water with a salinity test strip until I got to 3100ppm. I fired up the Aqua Rite and immediately got solid lights on “check salt” and “inspect cell”. I cleaned the cell but still have solid lights on “check salt” and “inspect cell”. The panel shows the following: Average Salt level - 0.00 Pool temp - 25 Cell voltage - 30.8 Cell amperage - 0.00 Desired output % - 100p Instant salt level - (- 0.00) Program code - AL - 0 Circuit board rev# - R 1.40 Cell size - (skips and returns to average salt level) The fact the pushing the diagnosis button 8 times bring the display back to “average salt level” makes me think the controller is not communication with the cell. I have checked that the connection is tight. How else can I troubleshoot this problem? Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/24/2019 

Hello Darrell - Have you tried running the Aquarite? Is there an issue?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/24/2019 

Yes, I put in the salt, ran the pump for 24 hours and then activated the Aqua Rite. That’s how I got the information that I posted above. I’ve been running it for several days now waiting to see if there would be a change but no.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/24/2019 

Sorry, Darrell. For some reason, I could not initially see your entire first post. It sounds like it could be a bad salt cell. We recommend reading through Aquarite Troubleshooting Manual
 Reply

 Posted: 4/24/2019 

Yes, I’ve read through the troubleshooting manual but found no reference to the controller not showing the cell model. I thought perhaps there might be a more informed method other than just replacing a $500 cell and hoping that it will work. :/
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/24/2019 

Your revision is 1.4. That is why you can't see the cell model in your display. The flow charts in the manual should still lead you to the same conclusion. It doesn't sound like a control box issue but you can rule that out by following the steps in the troubleshooting manual.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/12/2019 

How do we get the latest software revision?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/13/2019 

The only way of updating your software version is to replace with a new Main PCB - GLXPCBRITE
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/13/2019 

My Hayward Aqua Rite is showing 0 Salt. I tried the calibration but the display stays at 0. I replaced the cell with a OEM cell and the problem is still there. The power light is on and the low salt is on. I have tested the water and its at 3100. It was reading just fine them I noticed the salt #s counting down over a weeks time.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/17/2019 

The first thing I would check is that the correct cell size is selected within the control. Press the diagnostic button eight times. It should display the cell size. Make sure that matches the cell that you installed. If it doesn't match, check out our guide titled "How to Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aquarite". 
 Reply

 Posted: 3/18/2019 

I have a salt chlorine generator that keeps the lights on to check salt and inspect the cell, the voltage is 32 and the amperage is 0.03, what does this mean?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/18/2019 

It could be a couple of things:If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.If the amps show a reading that isn’t within its normal range, then you should replace your cell. 
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 1/13/2019 

My salt generator display shows ‘Hot’....what does this mean?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/14/2019 

The AquaRite's 'HOT' pops up if your water temp is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Check your water temp reading. If your AquaRite's water temp reading is 215 degrees the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/11/2018 

Hello Steve - The first thing I would try is re-calibrating the salt level. Check out our guide titled "How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite".
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 Posted: 9/6/2018 

Hi. The salt reading on my Aqua Rite unit is reading 2100 and therefore my Check Salt and Inspect Cell indicators are lit up. However, I tested the salt in my pool several times and it's reading very high (5000ppm), so I don't think my Aqua Rite is correct. Any suggestions?
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 Posted: 9/5/2018 

Hello Trisha - we have a longer AquaRite troubleshooting guide that lists a few options. But these are the steps that should apply directly to your situation. 1)If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter. 2) Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T. 3) Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch. 4) There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/4/2018 

Hello Kim - The flow switch is usually located after the salt cell. Click here to view a picture of the flow switch.
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 Posted: 9/1/2018 

I am getting no flow indicator. Where is the flow switch located so I can check it?
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Anonymous  Posted: 8/31/2018 

salt light reads 0 no flow light blinking. new flow switch.
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 Posted: 8/8/2018 

Hello Edd - We have a more in-depth troubleshooting guide listed here: Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System. But a simple way to diagnose a board issue is to check the amperage reaching your cell in the settings menu. If the amps on either polarity show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/7/2018 

We actually have a guide that covers that very topic: How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell
 Reply

 Posted: 8/7/2018 

We actually have a guide that covers that very topic: How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell
 Reply

 Posted: 7/30/2018 

I have a Hayward Aquarite - the Check Salt and Inspect Cell leds are on solid. My salt level is 2860. I tested the cell by submerging in water while a dummy cell was in its place. It bubbled, leading me to think that the cell is good. How can I tell if my board needs to be replaced. By a visual inspection, I do not see any burnt spots on the board...
 Reply

 Posted: 6/26/2018 

How do I clean the cell?
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 Posted: 6/8/2018 

Hello Chrystyna - Make sure that the correct cell is selected on the control panel and reset the average salt level. Check out pages 10-11 in the Hayward troubleshooting guide.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/3/2018 

hello. we installed a new cell. "inspect cell" and "check salt" are both still on. please advise
 Reply

 Posted: 5/30/2018 

Hello Gary - Your system probably needs to be switched from metric measurements to US standard. Check out page 8 of the troubleshooting guide.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/29/2018 

My panel is reading 3.90 for a salt level and not 2700 for example.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/14/2018 

My salt reading went from 2800 ppm to 2.8 ppm. I know it is just the decimal point moving but I can't figure out what I did. Trying to get it back to 4 digits.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/11/2018 

Hello Dustin - A common problem is the failure of the current limiter on the Aquarite's main circuit board. The current limiter is flat round black disk in the upper right corner. Inspect that disk to see if it is damaged. Check out this video to see how to replace that part. Also, check out the AquaRite troubleshooting manual.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/11/2018 

I have a "no flow" indication on my aqua rite salt generator. I have replaced the flow switch, but the no flow light still remains constant. What should I do next?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/10/2018 

Hello Gary - This is the response we received from Hayward tech support. "We have encountered Turbo Cells that have a higher density of coating on the plates than is required. These tend to be more sensitive to the salt content and read slightly higher by about 5% to 10%. As long as the unit that it's attached to does not pose any operational problems then this can be a good thing. The Turbo Cell, having a higher density of coating on the plates, will last longer, but will operate at a slightly higher level. As long as no other problems arise in the operations then the customer ends-up a bit better off for the same price."
 Reply

 Posted: 5/9/2018 

My Hayward Chlorinator is displaying a constant 4100 on the salt level. I have had the water tested 3 times over 2 weeks at 3200-3400. I have reset the "history" and cleaned the cell, instant reads 4100 also. Nothing happens different. It is producing just fine, no other anomalies. It is a 12 months old "Swim Pure Extreme", looks just like this one. What's next? Thanks!
 Reply