How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

WRITTEN BY:  Inyo Pools

  4 out of 5 stars on 10 ratings
(Click on a star to add your rating)

As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Things You'll Need

Video

Step by Step

Top

Step 1

"Power" LED not on. Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Step 2

"Generating" LED flashing. The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED illuminated. The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED illuminated or flashing. Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Step 5

"High Salt" LED illuminated. With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED flashing. Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated. Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Step 9

Causes for little or no chlorine residual. The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

Top
(1 to 40 of 476)

Chuck  Posted: 07/21/2017 18:15 PM  Latest

I just had put in a brand new Aquarite AQR9 system. Cell is set up correctly, wires just fine and plugged in correctly, correct power hooked up, correct length (12+ inches) in front of flow tee, arrows pointing in right direction, plenty of speed on the pump, BUT the "NO FLOW" light shines on! Any insight here? Thank you.


Inyopools  Posted: 07/21/2017 12:37 PM  Latest Inyo Product Specialist

Schmidty - This sounds like a problem with your main PCB. A number of people have seen this or something similar. The solution is often tied to replacing the flat disk "inrush current limiter" at the top upper right corner of your main PCB. A recent comment from PhilS suggested:
"If you are still getting a salt reading but no indicator lights your "inrush current limiter" may have gone out. mine was a model "as32 2r025" got it from Amazon for around $6. my soldering iron wasn't good enough so i just cut it out leaving enough existing wire to crimp on the replacement. hope this helps you and anyone else with this problem.
P.S if it falls apart in your hand then this is more than likely the issue."


Anonymous  Posted: 07/20/2017 13:45 PM  Latest

Doug - Step 10 of this guide provides a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. See page seven of this guide for "High Salt LED On". If that doesn't help solve your issue, check the other diagnostic suggestions.


Schmidty  Posted: 07/18/2017 18:56 PM  Latest

Turn system on, no flow flashes for a short period of 30 seconds. Then generating light turns on for about 10 seconds and then goes off. The digital readings are still on display.. what could be wrong??


Inyopools  Posted: 07/18/2017 18:11 PM  Latest Inyo Product Specialist

Robert - When you replaced your t-cell, did you reset the displayed cell to match the installed cell? Also, the last step in this guide referenced a diagnostics manual for the Aqua Rite SCG that might help you further.


Doug  Posted: 07/18/2017 13:16 PM  Latest

We have a 5 month old salt cell and just started having the problem of not generating and the high salt light is steady red. I've taken a water sample to our pool store and the salt level is right on, acid was a bit low which is normal, and almost no chlorine. I've cleaned the cell but cannot solve this,problem. Suggestions?


Robert  Posted: 07/17/2017 8:03 AM  Latest

I recently replaced my t-cell and now my aqua rite says salt level is Hi. I had chlorine level checked and it is not producing chlorine. Is high salt level the problem or does the aqua rite panel need replacing??


Inyopools  Posted: 07/10/2017 14:26 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Matt - I recently added a link to the bottom of this guide for Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Hopefully, some of the diagnostics tests can help you isolate your issue.


Inyopools  Posted: 07/09/2017 15:00 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Kevin - I just added a link to the bottom of this guide for Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your issue to either the cell or the main PC board.


Kevin  Posted: 07/06/2017 10:19 AM 

my problem is this. i place the cell in a bucket of water to diagnose the problem. i flip the switch to "super chlorinate" it works fine. i see bubbles being produced, therefore chlorine. i flip the switch to auto, and initially the are a few bubbles but then it stops. the display reads "COLD" but the water is quite warm. the cell is spotless but i'll clean it again with muriatic acid. Do you think its a board issue? i have had the whole package for 3 years, but my pool does not run for more than 3 hours a day so i cant see it being a bad cell. Also looking at the Board i see no problems either, no bugs and everything looks clean like the first day i installed it. Let me know what you think. thanks Kevin


Matt  Posted: 07/03/2017 18:48 PM 

My reading for my output dial is changing without moving the dial. I will set it at 33 and it moves 3 to 10 points. When it final settles it will be different the next day when I look at it. Sometimes it is as much as a 30 point difference. When I move the dial to 100 it does not adjust down even close to what is on the dial face. I have replaced the board thinking that was the problem but it did not fix it. I have read all of the troubleshooting threads that I can find and no one discusses how to remedy this. Does anyone know how to fix this or what I need to replace?
Thanks in advance,
Matt


Inyopools  Posted: 07/03/2017 17:14 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Ro788 - I just added a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual at the end of this guide. See page 2 of this manual for tips on "correcting your check salt and inspect cell LED flashing or ON".


Inyopools  Posted: 07/01/2017 11:30 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

PhilS - Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm sure it will be of great assistance to other readers.


Inyopools  Posted: 07/01/2017 10:59 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

KMB - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. Also, see PhilS' recent comments below. They may also help.


Ro788  Posted: 07/01/2017 3:12 AM 

Just replaced my cell for the 1st time since getting a Haywood Goldline Aqua Rite salt generator a few years ago. It's the same t-15 cell and I keep getting " check salt " and "inspect cell" lights ( Steady ) and cannot get them to go off by pressing the Diagnostics button for 3 seconds as required. Any suggestions


PhilS  Posted: 06/30/2017 16:52 PM 

@ken m & inyopool i had a problem similar to Ken m, where my amps where reading 0.0. the solution that helped me was to switch polarity. Page 3 from the guide provided by inyopool indicates to "cycle main switch from AUTO > OFF > AUTO". Hope this helps you and anyone else with this problem.
Best of luck
PhilS
P.S. page 17 with a troubleshooting chart may also help.


PhilS  Posted: 06/30/2017 15:12 PM 

ChrisP if you are still getting a salt reading but no indicator lights your "inrush current limiter" may have gone out. mine was a model "as32 2r025" got it from amazon for around $6. my soldering iron wasn't good enough so i just cut it out leaving enough existing wire to crimp on the replacement. hope this helps you and anyone else with this problem.
P.S if it falls apart in your hand then this is more than likely the issue.


KMB  Posted: 06/29/2017 9:17 AM 

We have had quite the year with our pool as our pump went out, handle broke, just replaced our t- cell 15 this past week. Finally everything was going well, it was generating for about 2 days and now this morning come out and find it says "pcb" with all 4 lights at the bottom lit up. We have the older goldline model switchboard. When we replaced the cell the directions stated it did not need any recalibration with this model so we just took out the new and put in the old. It started up and worked perfectly, reading accurately at 3400 for the first 2 days it was in. Is there anything we did wrong that could have caused this? Is there a way to troubleshoot the switchboard and recalibrate/fix it without having to replace it? We have well over 2 grand into this thing already this summer and have yet to use it...any help is greatly appreciated!


Inyopools  Posted: 06/27/2017 15:32 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

ChrisP - Like I suggested to Steve, your main PCB may be going. Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It has a series of diagnostics that may help you isolate your problem.


Inyopools  Posted: 06/27/2017 13:08 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Ken M - It is my understanding that when you replace your t-cell, you have to reset the Turbo Cell Type or the salt level, amperage and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. See page 4 in Haywards Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Also, I see on page 23 that the SW revision is up to at least 1.50. I'd suggest giving Hayward a call at 866-772-2100 to see if they can clarify this for you.


Inyopools  Posted: 06/27/2017 9:48 AM  Inyo Product Specialist

Steve - It sounds like your main PCB may be failing. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem.


ChrisP  Posted: 06/27/2017 7:28 AM 

I am having the same issue as Steve. The indicator lights on the unit are off, but it does show a salt reading but it is not generating any chlorine. The salt value seems stuck on the same number. My pool company is showing a lot less salt in the pool. I cleaned the cells. Any suggestions?


Ken M  Posted: 06/26/2017 16:51 PM 

I just replaced my T-Cell-9 and I am getting a voltage reading of 30 and amperage is 0.0. I am not generating chlorine. As I go through the process of resetting the voltage and amperage, it recalculates and the LED reads Generating and then within seconds it switch to Inspect Cell and Check Salt (salt is at 2900 per a test) and the voltage and amperage go back 30 and 0.0, respectively
I thought that maybe I need to reset the cell size to t-9 but when I scroll through the system, it does not show Cell Size option. My software version is 1.40.
Any thoughts?


Inyopools  Posted: 06/26/2017 16:30 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

jef - Take a water sample into a local pool store and have it tested. If the salt level is too high, the SCG will not generate chlorine. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem.


Inyopools  Posted: 06/26/2017 13:17 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Anonymous (Swin Pure Plus) - You may need a new PCB or cell. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual to help you isolate your problem.


Inyopools  Posted: 06/26/2017 12:48 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

art - I can't answer your question. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Link Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. If not, give Hayward at call at 866-772-2100. They should be able to assist you further.


Steve  Posted: 06/26/2017 7:49 AM 

I noticed all the lights were off on my unit. The LCD screen still gives a salt reading but nothing else and will change through the various screens but none of the indicator lights are working. Is this an issue with the unit or the cell? I just replaced the cell a year ago.


jef  Posted: 06/25/2017 13:47 PM 

bought an AquaRite PCB last year. it is not generating any clorine. Gererating light is off but pwr lite is on. Amps at 0. Display reads 9900 for salt. do I need another pcb?


Anonymous  Posted: 06/24/2017 11:35 AM 

I have a Hayward swim pure plus wit a t15 cell. the power and generate lights cycle on and off about every 10 seconds. No residual chlorine is showing up when water is tested.


art  Posted: 06/24/2017 10:20 AM 

my display unit does not let me go to screen to change tcell unit also i have an AL 7 THAT Icannot change what is the problem


Inyopools  Posted: 06/19/2017 14:17 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Vicki - Make sure the Flow Switch is installed with the flow of the water. See our guide on "How to Replace an Aqua Rite Flow Switch - Step 6". If that doesn't correct the problem, you may have low water flow issues. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Check clogged impeller first.


Vicki  Posted: 06/17/2017 18:11 PM 

We just put in a new flow switch after speaking to tech support at Hayward and the no flow light is still on solid (not flashing).....any other suggestions as to what the problem could be??

Thanks


Inyopools  Posted: 06/17/2017 12:00 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Anonymous (no power) - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate the problem before you have to buy a new main PCB.


Anonymous  Posted: 06/14/2017 10:25 AM 

I have a Aqua Rite Electronic chlorine generator by Hayward with a turbo cell-15. My pool was opened the first of May. everything was working fine for the last month. Everything was in check, my salt level is at 2800PPM. I noticed my chlorine levels going down, I checked the meter, the display window is is working but lights says no power. Called # in box for help they said I probably need a new main circuit board. Is there anything else that I should check before replacing main board??


Inyopools  Posted: 06/13/2017 19:04 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Soliddl - When you installed the new t-15 cell, did you set the displayed cell size to t-15 and then recalibrate? Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual for detailed information.


Soliddl  Posted: 06/12/2017 15:33 PM 

Salt on Hayward Aqua Rite is reading 1700. I have tested the water and it is around 3000ppm. The low salt light is on and the inspect cell light is illuminated solid yellow. I bought a new T-15 cell and installed. I have recalibrated aqua rite and lights are the same. Could this be a problem with the AQ unit and how can I tell? The unit is 4 years old. Thank you!!


Inyopools  Posted: 06/12/2017 12:45 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

John - I have no specific information on the power light and the generating light both flashing. The generating light will flash if the water temperature is too low ~50 degrees. Try cleaning your cell in acid. Then try reseating the display PCB on top of your main PCB, Make sure all cable connections are tight. If none of this work, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100.


Inyopools  Posted: 06/11/2017 20:41 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Marc Mirovsky - Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you resolve your salt level issue. See pages 4 and 5 in particular.


Inyopools  Posted: 06/11/2017 20:19 PM  Inyo Product Specialist

Karl - Your cell may need cleaning or is too old. Salt level may be too high or too low. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It should help you isolate your problem.


John  Posted: 06/10/2017 12:27 PM 

On my aqua rite system the power light and the generating light Will click on and off and I'm wondering what Could cause that is it still producing clorine