As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing
SJB Posted: 11/9/2020
My aqua-rite salt level started showing 2.2 instead of 3200. I don't know where the decimal point thing came from...I have had this system 10 years and changed the main board twice but I never had the salt level display with a decimal point. My salt cell is only 1 month old. I have disconnected it...done everything. It is still generating because I check my chlorine daily with a electronic device and test strips. Has anyone had this happen to them and how do you fix it. The decimal point thing isn't going to work for me.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 11/10/2020
You may have accidentally changed the unit of measurement from the US standard to metric. You can see how to change it back using this guide: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCGReply
richard henry roulette Posted: 8/3/2020
when i turn on generator things look normal. . after a few seconds the generator light goes off aand the check salt light turns red solid and the cell light comes on solid.. i cleaned the cell and nothing changes . salt level is good. what do you recommend i do. ?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/3/2020
I would make sure that your control panel is set to the correct cell size. This value can be changed by accident pretty easily. You can also try recalibrating the salt level. This guide gives you the steps on how to complete both of those tasks, and a few other things to check: Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite SystemReply
Anonymous Posted: 6/6/2020
I have a no flow flashing and generations won’t stay on. Pool company changed out the board and put on a new cell. Still the same thing.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/23/2020
Did they check that the flow switch is working correctly? Unscrew the flow switch from the plumbing tee and pinch the metal flap and rod together for a minute. If the no flow light doesn't go out, you have a bad flow switch.Reply
Ron Posted: 4/23/2020
My chlorine read out is 3.40. How do I change it to 3400. I've been through the service manual and don't find how to changeReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/24/2020
The steps to changing units of measurement can be found here: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCGReply
Anonymous Posted: 4/24/2020
Thanks, that fixed itReply
Blake Posted: 3/18/2020
My control panel shows the green power light but the screen is blank. Ideas?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 3/19/2020
I found this answer on our forum:I'd check the seven pins from the main board to the display board just to make sure that they are seated properly - one pin per hole. I'd also check pins 2 and 4 (from left to right) for a range of 3 to 5 VDC. If all pins are seated properly and pins 2 and 4 measure within range then I'd consider changing the display board.This is the parts page for the Hayward AquaRiteReply
Donna Posted: 3/15/2020
My display is showing HOT? What does this mean?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 3/16/2020
The AquaRite's 'HOT' pops up if your water temp is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Check your water temp reading. If your AquaRite's water temp reading is 215 degrees the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.Reply
Jeff Posted: 5/23/2019
i have an aquarite generator. i'm not producing any chlorine. I changed the cell but the control panel is still doing the same thing - so appears it wasn't the cell. Both the power and generating lights come on solid green for 15 seconds and then turn off for one minute. During that minute the voltage climbs from 3 to 18. a few seconds after the power and generating lights turn solid green - the voltage drops back down to 3. this cycle is just repeating itself over and over again. Assume there's an issue with one of the components in the control panel? thx for your help!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 5/23/2019
Hello Jeff - Like Dean in the comment below, I'd check the current limiter on the main board. I'd also go through the troubleshooting flow chart on page 31 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide.Reply
Dean Posted: 5/21/2019
My Aqua Rite was not reading salt level correctly. Added salt to bring to 3000 and no change in readings. Salt cell was cleaned/serviced with no change. I replaced salt cell and readings went to 3500 but hasn’t changed even with significant rain diluting pool. Now the controller power light and chlorinating light will come on for 10 seconds and go off for 2 minutes and then continue to cycle on and off. Is this an indication to replace circuit board? I have power to board (220) and connections are good. Fuse is good.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 5/22/2019
Hello Dean- We'd recommend checking the current limiter on the main circuit board. It's a flat round black disk that sticks out from the board. That piece can crack and cause symptoms like you are experiencing. Click here to view a video that shows the replacement of a current limiter. For more tips, check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide and the Quick Reference Guide.Reply
chris Posted: 5/17/2019
what's the typical life span of a T Cell 15?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/20/2019
3 to 5 years.Reply
Darrell Posted: 4/24/2019
I just purchased a home with an Aqua Rite Goldline system that has a T-15 cell. The previous owner said the salt system was functional but he had turned it off and had been using Chlorine. I decide to go sal again. I added salt, checking the water with a salinity test strip until I got to 3100ppm. I fired up the Aqua Rite and immediately got solid lights on “check salt” and “inspect cell”. I cleaned the cell but still have solid lights on “check salt” and “inspect cell”. The panel shows the following: Average Salt level - 0.00 Pool temp - 25 Cell voltage - 30.8 Cell amperage - 0.00 Desired output % - 100p Instant salt level - (- 0.00) Program code - AL - 0 Circuit board rev# - R 1.40 Cell size - (skips and returns to average salt level) The fact the pushing the diagnosis button 8 times bring the display back to “average salt level” makes me think the controller is not communication with the cell. I have checked that the connection is tight. How else can I troubleshoot this problem? Thanks.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 4/24/2019
Hello Darrell - Have you tried running the Aquarite? Is there an issue?Reply
Darrell Posted: 4/24/2019
Yes, I put in the salt, ran the pump for 24 hours and then activated the Aqua Rite. That’s how I got the information that I posted above. I’ve been running it for several days now waiting to see if there would be a change but no.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 4/24/2019
Sorry, Darrell. For some reason, I could not initially see your entire first post. It sounds like it could be a bad salt cell. We recommend reading through Aquarite Troubleshooting Manual.Reply
Darrell Posted: 4/24/2019
Yes, I’ve read through the troubleshooting manual but found no reference to the controller not showing the cell model. I thought perhaps there might be a more informed method other than just replacing a $500 cell and hoping that it will work. :/Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 4/24/2019
Your revision is 1.4. That is why you can't see the cell model in your display. The flow charts in the manual should still lead you to the same conclusion. It doesn't sound like a control box issue but you can rule that out by following the steps in the troubleshooting manual.Reply
Gerry Boutelier Posted: 5/12/2019
How do we get the latest software revision?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/13/2019
The only way of updating your software version is to replace with a new Main PCB - GLXPCBRITEReply
Anonymous Posted: 4/13/2019
My Hayward Aqua Rite is showing 0 Salt. I tried the calibration but the display stays at 0. I replaced the cell with a OEM cell and the problem is still there. The power light is on and the low salt is on. I have tested the water and its at 3100. It was reading just fine them I noticed the salt #s counting down over a weeks time.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 7/17/2019
I have the same problem. new cell and still shows 0. Did you find a solution?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 4/17/2019
The first thing I would check is that the correct cell size is selected within the control. Press the diagnostic button eight times. It should display the cell size. Make sure that matches the cell that you installed. If it doesn't match, check out our guide titled "How to Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aquarite".Reply
Jonathan Posted: 3/18/2019
I have a salt chlorine generator that keeps the lights on to check salt and inspect the cell, the voltage is 32 and the amperage is 0.03, what does this mean?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 3/18/2019
It could be a couple of things:If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.If the amps show a reading that isn’t within its normal range, then you should replace your cell.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 1/13/2019
My salt generator display shows ‘Hot’....what does this mean?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 1/14/2019
The AquaRite's 'HOT' pops up if your water temp is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Check your water temp reading. If your AquaRite's water temp reading is 215 degrees the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced.Reply
InyoPools Posted: 9/11/2018
Hello Steve - The first thing I would try is re-calibrating the salt level. Check out our guide titled "How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite".Reply
Steve Posted: 9/6/2018
Hi. The salt reading on my Aqua Rite unit is reading 2100 and therefore my Check Salt and Inspect Cell indicators are lit up. However, I tested the salt in my pool several times and it's reading very high (5000ppm), so I don't think my Aqua Rite is correct. Any suggestions?Reply
Matthew Posted: 9/5/2018
Hello Trisha - we have a longer AquaRite troubleshooting guide that lists a few options. But these are the steps that should apply directly to your situation. 1)If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter. 2) Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T. 3) Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch. 4) There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.Reply
InyoPools Posted: 9/4/2018
Hello Kim - The flow switch is usually located after the salt cell. Click here to view a picture of the flow switch.Reply
kim Posted: 9/1/2018
I am getting no flow indicator. Where is the flow switch located so I can check it?Reply
Anonymous Posted: 8/31/2018
salt light reads 0 no flow light blinking. new flow switch.Reply