By PureLine



Part # GOKIT6

Alternate Part #'s 65006, GO KIT 6, PL1006, 90-249-3006, AEQGOKIT6, ALDGO-KIT6, APCK1057, SPG-601-5006

Product Description

Standard tune up kit for the Sta-Rite Dura Glas & Max E Glas pumps includes the shaft seal and all o-rings, gaskets, and lubricant.

We highly recommend replacing the shaft seal, o-rings and gaskets when replacing your motor.  If you use your old shaft seal, it will not mate up properly with the new motor and may leak.

This Tune Up Kit Works on These Pumps:

  • All Sta-Rite Dura-Glas & Max-E-Glas 1/2 HP - 3 HP single and dual speed models with Seal Inserts - J3-2SS or J3-2-50.
  • All Sta-Rite P2R & PE Series Pumps 1/2 HP - 3 HP single and dual speed models with Seal Inserts - J3-2SS or J3-2-50.
  • Note: Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II and Max-E-Glas II pumps use GOKIT38

Tune Up Kit Includes:

  • Motor Shaft Seal
  • Housing O-Ring
  • Diffuser O-Ring
  • Gasket
  • Lubricant

For More Pool Pump Motors


?     Asked on 2/13/2012by Guest

I recently changed my pool motor and gaskets. I made sure to lubricate all the gaskets with vaseline. A few days later water is leaking from the pump. What did I do wrong? Help please!!

A  Answered on 2/13/2012 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

You never want to use vaseline on any rubber gaskets or o-rings. Vaseline is petroleum based and will deteriorate the rubber quickly. Whenever you change the motor on a pool pump it is recommended that you replace the gaskets and shaft seal as well. A >Go-kit contains the shaft seal, packet of non-petroleum based lubricant and gaskets you will need for your pump. If you already have the gaskets, you can purchase >Magic Lube.

?     Asked on 10/15/2014by Guest

My pump is not priming even after cleaning impeller. Will purchasing this kit aid in fixing that problem?

A  Answered on 10/15/2014 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

The seal kit can help with loss of prime. I can't guarantee that it will solve your problem. The loss of prime could be from an air leak at the valves or plumbing in front of the pump.

?     Asked on 12/16/2014by Rit Swenton

I am looking for a seal kit for a Sta-Rite PE5D-124L pump. This pump has the copper insert that the seal sits in. Thanks Rit

A  Answered on 12/16/2014 by InyoPools Product Specialist Alex V.

Rit,If you have the PE5D-124L with the copper insert, the GOKIT6 would be the right kit.

?     Asked on 12/17/2014by Mark

How can I tell if the pump is pre 1998 if model number is not visible?

A  Answered on 12/17/2014 by InyoPools Product Specialist Brian M.

I am sorry, but the only way to tell is if your pump has this ( J32 ) insert or not.  The pre-98 have it in place, the post-98 do not. The cone became unnecessary so Sta-rite made it no longer needed. The best solution is to order the Post-98 Go Kit and if you find you have the cone, simply remove it.

?     Asked on 12/17/2014by Inyo Visitor

I am looking for a seal kit for a Sta-Rite P6E6E-206L system.

A  Answered on 12/17/2014 by InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M.

The seal kit for the Max-E-Pro is part number GOKIT79.


Est. Repair Time

1 to 2 hrs

Tools Needed


My existing pool pump motor was going bad and making a lot of noise.

Written on 11/24/2022 by Guest

I ordered the replacement pool pump motor with the Tune Up Kit for the pool pump. Once delivered, I removed the existing motor from my pool pump along with the existing pump O-rings and seals. Then I installed the new pool pump motor, and pump O-rings and seals. Once installed, I powered the motor on. It ran perfectly and silently. I have had no issues with this motor since I installed it. The pump is not leaking

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Est. Repair Time

1 to 2 hrs

Tools Needed

Screwdriver, Nut Drivers

Leaking pump

Written on 9/11/2022 by Guest

I have an old Max-E-Glas pump in my old pool/spa system. Now this entire system needs to be replaced but I'm not quite ready to do it and am trying to keep my old equipment limping along as best I can.

A big problem has been the spa booster pump. The main seal under the metal band began leaking, starting pouring, and eventually gushed whenever the pump was running. This drained water but, more importantly, was letting air into the system which airlocked my filter and flushed DE into my pool.

Knowing that this entire system is going away in 6-12 months, I decided to look for a repair and this was the kit to do it. After that initial "pre or post 1998" research it was pretty straightforward. My main confusion was that the instructional video is titled 'how to change the pump motor" but its really about the seal installation.

I followed the video step by step and within an hour or two I was done. The biggest problem for me was that I overly disassembled the shaft components in the electrical bay trying to stop the spindle from spinning so I could get the plate off. Took me a bit to finally realize that i could slip a small 7/16ths behind it and lock it in place.

The other place of confusion for me was the instruction to not tighten down the impeller very tightly. In my install, I had to bottom it out to get enough space between the impeller and the diffuser. Its not tight, but its certainly all the way tight.

Buttoned it up and was back in business. Cheap fix to keep this old pump limping along for a bit longer while I make bigger plans.

Thanks Inyo!

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Est. Repair Time

4 to 8 hrs

Tools Needed

Screwdriver, Socket Set, Wrench Set, mallet

No suction on old but lightly used Sta-Rite Dura Glas pump

Written on 6/8/2021 by Guest

I watched videos from Inyo Pools on rebuilding pool pumps, a video from U.S. Seal Mfg on Seal Installations for Pool and Spa Applications, and the original Owners Manual for my Sta-Rite Dura*Glas centrifugal pump. Then decided to give it a try. I ordered the GOKIT 6 from Inyo Pools. I had the pump out of the ground and on the bench so it was easy to work on.
Disassembly was not too difficult until I got to the removal of the seal plate . I removed the 4 bolts holding the motor to the seal plate but the shaft seal kept the motor shaft from sliding free of the seal plate. The old shaft seal was firmly attached to the motor shaft. I finally had to admit that the seal couldn't be saved. I suspended the motor between 2 flat surfaces (8X8 wood blocks) on the seal plate. I tapped the stainless steel part of the shaft seal around the motor shaft and it finally let loose and the motor dropped on a pile of rags I had set to break the fall.
The copper shield was in good shape and still firmly attached to the seal plate. I used fine emery cloth to polish the motor shaft getting rid of some rust and pits. The motor bearings were also in great shape, no looseness.

I paid particular attention to the advice of U.S. Seal Mfg on how to clean and lube the new seal and also why never use silicon lube on any of these parts. I cleaned the motor shaft, the seal plate cavity, and new shaft seal with alcohol and used U.S. Sealube as I slid the mating ring into the seal plate cavity and used a 3/4" half inch drive socket to tap it gently into place (I used a homemade cardboard washer to protect the mating ring face from the socket). I then attached the seal plate to the motor with 4 bolts. Then I slid the seal head (correctly oriented) onto the shaft with U.S. Sealube.
The rest of the assembly was straightforward. The impeller was threaded back on the motor shaft (CW), The diffuser was attached with 5 capscrews and washers. Installed the new o-ring into the diffuser using Aladdin Magic Lube. Then installed the tank body and new o-ring to the seal plate, again using MagicLube on the o-ring. Installed the clamp and tightened the bolt, tapping the ring as I tightened. Finally installed the trap body and cover o-ring (MagicLube again).
Job complete. Filled the trap with water, attached pool hoses to inlet and outlet, turned on pump, it primed and ran quietly. Lots of suction now

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